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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Fabulous work Mark I am sorry to hear of your injury,I hope all goes well and wishing you a speedy recovery. Merry Xmas Kind Regards Nigel
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Are there other sites like Cornwall model ships out there
NMBROOK replied to kpnuts's topic in Wood ship model kits
Yes, the Model-Dockyard.com is based in Truro.A get most of my supplies from there as they offer a very prompt service and have live stock quantities of items they have. Kind Regards Nigel -
In the Uk all the big kits listed above are all pitched at a similar price,Sergal SOTS,Soleil Royal,Vasa and Corel Wappen von Hamburg.The equivalent of about $1100,so at the offer price of $579,that is a steal and probably cost price. Kind Regards Nigel
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We did peak at -18 deg C last winter up North,mind you I bet Michael is chuckling at the thought of those 'mild conditions' Kind Regards Nigel
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Composite built?
NMBROOK replied to Sailor1234567890's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
A very interesting discussion.I feel one of the biggest issues would lie with shaping the brass angle.These sections were 'rolled' on the original to follow the contours of the hull.Even if you manufactured miniature rollers to produce these,brass behaves very differently to wrought iron and I think it will be almost impossible.The other alternative would be to mill out of brass billet which would be exorbitant in both time and money. Kind Regards Nigel -
Some very nice gear.I have to echo what others have said though,it is almost one of those 'what is wrong with this' pictures.Mill isn't bolted down,and some serious security issues.Definately Christmas for the budding thief.I live in the UK,but still have double glazing and insulation in the workshop. Kind Regards Nigel
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I had the great pleasure of reading through your log for the first time this morning Jason.I have to say I think this a fabulous build.The fact that this is your first makes it even more commendable. Great work!!! Kind Regards Nigel
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Incredible work Matti The last photo looking on the bows is a real 'show stopper' Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you Pete for your prompt reply.I ask as I was toying on adding the plans to my inventory for scratchbuilding purposes.I already have the Royal William's plans for a scratchbuild for my next 'personal project'.These plans appear to extremely accurate historically.The Mordaunt would make a nice model to sell,however the kit version is historically incorrect with the stern design,I just wondered whether the plans reflected the original or the kit.Either way it is still feasable to alter the stern to match Van de Velde's work and the pictures I have of the Navy Board model.I will check my references because the above drawing goes way beyond the kit parts. Kind Regards Nigel
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An interesting project Michael.To join the segments together will require the use of a miller more that a lathe.Yes I know you have just acquired one If you look at Jeronimo's build,while this may not be the same as Vasa,it gives you an idea of how the pieces fit together.He doesn't show the manufacture but if you look at the completed work you can see the joints on the end.All pictures I have seen involve some sort of 'keying' between the sections. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you Jud,I spend an age on the Russian forum looking for a picture I had seen of A.Banarov's 'tree'of wax cannons,but could I find it.Another advantage not mentioned of the 'lost wax process' is there are no mold join lines.These may be present making the wax patterns,but polishing them off moulding wax is easier than pewter!This would require experimentation,but warming the resin a little above room temperature would allow a much better flow because it will be like water Kind Regards Nigel
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That it is Brian,but the google translated version is interpretable if a little humourous in places Kind Regards Nigel
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clueless on the stern
NMBROOK replied to ed stein's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I see what you mean Ed.You are referring to the area below the stern counter.I would say a combination of normal planking meeting planking in a 'fan' pattern on the infill pieces.I would be tempted to fit more infill blocks above the centreline of the propshaft.You can then shape these and get a better idea of what to do.There will be a very awkward transition of shapes at the top of the propeller window,and I wouldn't want to attempt it without infilling first. I hope this is of some help. Kind Regards Nigel -
I would just like to say you are doing a fantastic job Pete.I do agree as I have mentioned before,Euromodels plans surpass everything else I have seen.If I could ask you one question,it would be 'does the Euromodels plan of Mordaunt show the stern as in the kit,or is it more correct i.e.with lower balcony?' For anyone interested couple of Royal William Build logs on here including a 1/50 scratchbuild. http://www.koga.net.pl/forum.html Kind Regards Nigel
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Looks pretty darn good to me Shawn,great work You have managed to keep it tight and neat around the deck rail,which was always going to be the hard part with it in place. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Shawn,yes been there tried that.It is heavy chopped strand mat that is included in these body repair kits.If you use this you will be filling and sanding for ever,it is far too rough for this application.This mat is only suitable when making a hull in a mould.You will find the woven material in model shops specializing in RC planes more than boats.The woven material is wafer thin. Kind Regards Nigel
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You are probably missing a trick,as the Deagostini part work is now in the UK,I dare say they may be a few takers,that is on top of all those who are,or are planning to build the vessel on this Forum and others.I would still buy your parts knowing you are making a profit,after all we still have bills to pay. Kind Regards Nigel P.S.I would also add your front bulkhead to my list,That is stunning!
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Hi Ulises This is the first time I have looked through your log and I have to say great work!! the attention to detail and care you are putting into the rope work is fantastic.Balancing the tension of some of those lines is not easy but you have mastered it with great precision. Kind Regards Nigel
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Been out in the shop and had a look at the thinners bottle.It doesn't give a list of chemical content and may just be denatured alcohol rebranded.It is easily available for me and inexpensive as it goes along way,so I have never tried anything else.Because you are heavily thinning the resin and it is going on Balsa,the balsa is the reinforcement,so reducing the need for a binder.Had the timber been denser and less absorbent then yes I would of recommended a form of mat over any other option.Densities of balsa do vary a lot so the only way you will know for certain if giving it a go with resin only first and then mat later if necessary.One thing is for sure,if you use both processes,your hull will be like concrete,just not as heavy Kind Regards Nigel
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