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NMBROOK

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Everything posted by NMBROOK

  1. Hi and welcome to the forum.In answer to your question yes.The option I always take is to apply first planking so it follows its natural run and disregard the 'rules'The second layer i apply to follow the rules of planking in an authentic manner.This has two benefits,you can use the kits first planking and second because the planking runs are very different,it makes for a stronger hull. Kind Regards Nigel
  2. Great build Mark,I have read through it in stages during the week I think I must be in the minority as I actually like working with Ebony.The bonus of making wales out of the stuff,is it is that hard,you don't mark it when continually rolling the hull over.Believe it or not I am actually ordering some more next week for the caprails on my Caroline build .I have found nothing sticks it like thick Cyano.I still give it a wipe with acetone first. A Happy New Year to you and your family Kind Regards Nigel
  3. The initial picture looks great Are you building the suspense up by a 'slow' reveal ?Quite justifiable as this appears to be the most talked about carving on the ship Happy New Year to you and your family buddy Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Great work Frank I like your rework of the gunports with dummy carriages Kind Regards Nigel
  5. Interesting point Matti,I was reading one of the museum pages about the 3D computer model they created with laser mapping.She has twisted 8.5mm in the last ten years or so!Not good. Kind Regards Nigel
  6. Hi Captain Al In this case you just fill in between the desired area.Rather than try and explain I include a link to Drazen's log.Notice how he is infilling between the upperpart of the frames but still leaving the hull hollow.You can do this for the full profile of the hull to one side only. Kind Regards Nigel http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/911-de-zeven-provinci%C3%ABn-by-dra%C5%BEen-cari%C4%87-scale-1-45-1665/page-3
  7. To be honest Patrick.I really don't know.I can speak for everyone.Many modelers treenail the deck but not the hull,so a similar sort of thing.I have always been of the opinion it is a case of all or nothing.In actual fact the fixings in the hull and more than lightly the hull caulking(you can't pour tar uphill)are far more prevalent than on the deck. You are ideally placed for a nice browse in Westbourne Model Centre.I am envious,I could spend several hours in there.Only been a few times as it is the wrong end of the country. Kind Regards Nigel
  8. Hi Patrick The hull is invariably caulked the same as the deck.I always use a pencil on one plank edge on my builds,where the area of hull is not to be painted. Kind Regards Nigel
  9. Those pictures certainly make it obvious as to it's identity Matti .Looking at the pics,so much of the blue is actual structure and not carving.I personally think it looks like some sort of blue and gold mutant Catfish having a bad day.In the absence of historical evidence,I shall still view it as the 'blue thingy'.You do have something to work to though to replicate it. Kind Regards Nigel
  10. I am with the others Doris,I am truly lost for words.Absolutely astonishing,fabulous and completely remarkable work!!!!!!!! Kind Regards Nigel
  11. Brilliant work and pictures Matti I do agree with your observations regarding the 1/10 model.I think these have been standardized/simplified to enable them to be cast from the same mould. Kind Regards Nigel
  12. Do you plan on applying any 'ageing' to the ship?I ask because I am researching different techniques and the Russian forum is a little strange with the translator. Kind Regards Nigel
  13. Hi Antony My localish merchant stocks all the above and steamed pear.I will have a look and see what they have in the New Year.I am not averse to using Pear,it is just the colour variation you can get in the same piece.When it is light pink,it is a nice colour with some oil/varnish,it is the fact that in the same piece you can get a brown section that is very dark with oil/varnish.They do stock Tulipwood,but I disregarded it as Mij scraped what he had made as he didn't rate it. Isn't the grain overly visible in Beech? Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Thanks Druxey,I will have to go and see the merchant when they reopen in the New year.They appear to offer American hard maple and cherry.Unfortunately all the Pear I have come across to date is steamed.I am after something that can be made to look like Boxwood without having to take out a second mortgage.I have worked with Maple but not Cherry,what is this like to work with? Kind Regards Nigel
  15. I thought I would 'throw' the question out there to see what response I get.My next build if a fully framed model to the scale of 1/36 (not 1/48 as my signature states).Living in the UK and suffering from a questionable ease of availability and great expense of the preferred woods for this task,what issues am a likely to encounter using Basswood/lime?This is going to be one LARGE hull so I wood rather not source the timber from the US as after delivery/taxes the prices will be astronomical.I can get pear,but fear it my be too dark for what I want to achieve.Boxwood is hard to come by in decent chunks and is ridiculously expensive.I have discovered that the quality of limewood is massively better for some reason when I buy sheets as apposed to planks for some reason. Any thoughts opinions welcome,at the moment I am sat on the fence. Kind Regards Nigel
  16. More great work Matti Nice to see a festive update,shame there wasn't snow on the ground to add to the effect Kind Regards Nigel
  17. Thanks,I did notice one was designed for ST in 1/90. Kind Regards Nigel
  18. I agree,it is a good system and most importantly you can spread the cost out and buy as and when needed.I did notice you have two different figureheads listed,what is the difference between these? Kind Regards Nigel
  19. Thank you.Yes I shall wait until you have completed the project and printed some prototypes.I would rather wait anyway so I can assess what alterations I plan before commencing assembly.If you are intending to produce a full range of the complete cannons,I may well consider the option,subject to cost as I was planing on some alterations to the skeleton design,so adding internal decks does not pose a big problem.I was planning on changing the supplied dummy cannons anyway as they are so short,they offer little scope for modification to the standard kit design. Kind Regards Nigel
  20. Although I only ever knew Eddie through this forum,I had grown very fond of him. Eddie,I will sadly miss your upbeat humour and get on with attitude.It has been an honour to have you as my friend even if it has been for a short period. Rest in peace Eddie I am deeply saddened to hear this news and offer Eddie's family my deepest condolences Kind Regards Nigel
  21. Wow ! My shopping list for this build is getting bigger daily I shall wait until you have completed your work and then buy in the order I shall need them,to spread the cost out a little.Now an interesting question,how do you propose to tackle the dummy cannons?I have seen the recesses made deeper so the metal gunport frames/lids can be discarded.Do you propose to make longer dummy barrels,or are you thinking of going all out and having complete cannons on all decks?Obviously this would require more structural work.Again,I must say fabulous work and I will add that my build will remain unstarted until I know the full extent of detail parts you offer through Shapeways.I really think that with all these,the Santissima kit will really be taken into the next dimension. I wish you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Kind Regards Nigel
  22. Good on you mate,I wouldn't worry,we are all aware of the 'warts and all'process of building these models.You have seen the picks of my sovereign build with big chunks cut out Kind Regards Nigel
  23. Looks good Brian I love this ship Now you have posted a pic,the next step would be a build log YOU could be the first to have a Royal William log Kind Regards Nigel
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