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NMBROOK

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Everything posted by NMBROOK

  1. Hi Antony Did you find Proxxon's chuck fits the machine?I have been toying buying one on the off chance.Incidentally,I have found the large shank small drills by Proxxon vastly superior to standard ones.Normal drills always end up snapping at the base of the flutes,the proxxon ones eliminate this through their design. Kind Regards Nigel
  2. Hi Keith You are correct in that no accessories are included,however the step clamps are as well as a full set of collets.I think a lot depends on what you intend to do with the machine.I have found it ideal for small work which was my reason for buying.There are larger more capable machines out there but my reasoning was there would be more of a luxury and the advantage size wise would be of little advantage compared to the big jump in price.I bought the vice,rotary head and tools together with the machine in order to maximize it's potential. I have found that the Proxxon cutters are extremely good and having only two flutes are optimized for the higher cutting speeds.With the supplied collets you can also use many of the woodcutting burrs from the Dremel/Proxxon range. As regards squaring the workpiece to the quill,I either have machined packers to support the workpiece or measure the face to be machined with the depth gauge of a digital vernier to the table.You cannot rotate the z axis,so this remains square the the milling table.I have yet to find the need for a centre finder. Kind Regards Nigel
  3. I have used both methods on my current build,both are great although you can only go so small with the hole using the cocktail stick method without having to sharpen the ends.The pencil method will always look like what it is,pencil. Kind Regards Nigel
  4. Truly magnificent work Alex,I am in awe of your skillset! Kind Regards Nigel
  5. Fabulous work Ersin Is there any chance of an update in your Royal William log?I am sure a lot of members would be interested in this magnificent model and your incredible carving skills. Kind Regards Nigel
  6. These things have a place in the market,the people who make them are feeding the families,I would be interested to know the mark up though.Regarding the price,ask yourself how much an exemplary model of Victory would cost,then compare it with the what they are asking. Kind Regards Nigel
  7. Wonderful job with the gilding Frank This is really exceptional work as it is so easy to loose the detail on these small castings with this process. Kind Regards Nigel
  8. The top looks fabulous Mark I certainly wouldn't relish have to cut those parts out from scratch! Kind Regards Nigel
  9. Hi Matti Thanks for the documentary heads up.I have seen both now,both excellent despite not speaking Swedish.There was a great deal of original footage in the second,reminds me of watching the Mary Rose raising live as a school boy Kind Regards Nigel
  10. Hi Bob I have an enjoyable hour or so reading through your log.I have to say wonderful work.Very commendable how you have managed to work through errors in the supplied parts and still end up with nice lines.I have had to do this myself before and it is not a nice job. Kind Regards Nigel
  11. VERY nice scrolls Theo I am glad the drawings were helpful in more ways than one.I don't think these drawings are the original,they have been drawn by a Spanish modeler using various sources of reference.As far as I know,no drawings exist after she was substantially altered. Kind Regards Nigel
  12. Just fabulous mate!I would much rather look at your build than the 1/10 model.They can't have been the most comfortable of toilets with the pinrail in your back. Kind Regards Nigel
  13. I gave up looking after 40mins Dan,there is not a great deal out there,can't have been very popular . It was 10 years ago when it was released and it is hardly an icon.However the blue will be to represent annealed copper . Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Fabulous build I especially like the lanterns,I don't know what Panart was thinking (apart from saving money) using the same lanterns as San Felipe. Kind Regards Nigel
  15. It doesn't necessarily follow that the Mamoli kit is the same as the partwork.The dep prado is 1/100 the Mamoli is kit is 1/90.Kit manufacturers produce these partworks under licence.Hachette's Bismarck and Hood would manufactured by Amati.Del Prado/Osprey is just a publishing house with no facilities to manufacture.When you look at a cast 'Del Prado' gunport it is obvious that any other manufacturer would have been in breach of Mamoli's patent on their metal ports. I will investigate further as this has me intrigued. Kind Regards Nigel
  16. You mentioned Deagostini Dan,looking at the gunport lid sockets,is this not a Mamoli kit,or partwork based on that?The deagostini Vic is an artesenia product.I have a feeling this was offered by del prado.I agree it is looking better already,doesn't look like the same model. Kind Regards Nigel
  17. Great work Michael and that looks like it will be a great party I never knew about those additional supports for stowing the anchor,I know now you have mentioned that they have been removed from the original,but I have never noticed them on a model of vasa before. Kind Regards Nigel
  18. Hi Mike Yes I will start a log when work commences.I have printed out Peter's Interpretive build although he as only got as far as hull construction. Kind Regards Nigel
  19. Great stuff Vince,as a matter of a fact I have Mordaunt being delivered on Monday.Start as soon as Royal Caroline is finished.The plans alone for Royal William weigh more than some smaller kits Kind Regards Nigel
  20. Fabulous build Theo Yes the ST had side steps,here is the link to a Spanish site with drawings.No entry port,the steps went from the waterline right to the top of the hull http://usuarios.arsystel.com/naviost/nst/I-index.html Kind Regards Nigel
  21. The 'thingy' is coming on great Matti Now you have added it,the prow looked like it was missing something before. Kind Regards Nigel
  22. I assume we are talking about the plank under the bottom wale.The narrow piece under the wale I think is fitted over the planking,so the plank that looks pointed runs under this into the rabbet.It does then have a square end.I may be wrong, without going to the museum and prising it apart I can't be sure Kind Regards Nigel
  23. Great work Mark.I love the cannons.You get a very similar look blackening them and then brushing with a brass brush,however your way is less work.Every kit seems to depict the lantern as a big 'glitterball' but I am sure the original would have been a little more conservative.I am sure those in the 'know' will be able to shed some light(no pun intended) on the matter. Kind Regards Nigel
  24. I would work around a 6mm plank width as a basis.If you plan on 'spiling' you can get away with 7mm at the stern to avoid stealers,but you may find that a lot of the planks end up less than 6mm apart from amidships.I would also recommend you go for 1mm or 1.5mm thick planking for the second planking giving you a bit to go at with sanding.I am personally not keen on the 0.5mm stuff.Even if you don't sand through it,some areas can end up thin and you can see the first planking through it when you apply a finish. Kind Regards Nigel
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