Jump to content

NMBROOK

Members
  • Posts

    2,305
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by NMBROOK

  1. My apologies Amateur the yacht is Corsair Iv.The page I looked at stated it was JPM jr.You are correct he was the owner.My apologies. Kind Regards Nigel
  2. Try googlin Nahlin you will see what I mean and the historic providence of her owners. Kind Regards Nigel
  3. Amateur there is also a 1930's yacht of the same name.J.Pierpoint is a famous name in the US everything has been named after him. Kind Regards Nigel Like I say I am confident it is Nahlin
  4. That was a guess but this I am a little more confident about,it has recently been restored Nahlin? Kind Regards Nigel
  5. I am going to come flying in as the rank outsider as I have a few possibles J.P. Morgan Jr? Kind Regards Nigel
  6. I have to hand it to you Romanov,you keep coming up with some nice gadgets.I particularly like the fact all the moving parts are ballraced! Kind Regards Nigel
  7. Hi mangaroca Have seen many logs for the occre version and collecting the Deag version myself,yes there are fundamental design differences.They are the same Occre product,but the kit has been reengineered for deagostini.The construction process has been made easier with view to it being double planked vs single of the occre kit.There are one or two differences in how the bow is planked to make this easier in view of the extreme curve. Kind Regards Nigel
  8. Thank you very much indeed Brian Unfortunately I cannot for see anytime on this build until I have completed Royal Caroline. Kind Regards Nigel
  9. Thank you very much indeed Lawrence for your very kind works,I do take influences from both Bernard Frolich and the Russian Palace style in my work and mix them up with the western way of replicating original colours,so I can't take all the credit.I do personally like letting the beauty of the wood show through and whilst you can build Victory in this style,it is a tough ship to build as a first model in this style. Kind Regards Nigel
  10. Hi Martyn Nice to hear from you buddy.Thank you,work has stopped for the minute,busy with another build,Royal Caroline,I have another log in this section.Dropped in on your log this morning,she is looking fabulous mate. Kind Regards Nigel
  11. I do agree with Brian,I wouldn't do it unless you can afford to remove quite a bit of material afterwards. Kind Regards Nigel
  12. You can always mix acrylic paint with the glue,I know someone who has done this. Kind Regards Nigel
  13. The small Proxxon only works with the collets supplied to take a maximum shank size of 3.2mm.It comes with six different sizes upto and including this.This covers the Proxxon milling bits specific for this machine and will take the Dremel bits.You wouldn't want to go much bigger than the 3mm proxxon make for this machine,as I have tried it with the large dremel milling bit and causes the wood to burn slightly due to too high a cutting speed. Kind Regards Nigel
  14. Hi Sherry Fabulous carving work!If you use an exterior grade clear poly,this has a brown tint which will turn the carving yellow with a couple of thin coats.The highlight of using this is you will get a deeper colour in the recesses of the carving and it will bring the detail out even more. Kind Regards Nigel
  15. Joe, Like I say it is only a cheapy,you can spend a small fortune on one.I read the reviews and thought I would give it ago having burnt out two 60w conventional irons.Works like a dream,can't fault it. Kind Regards Nigel
  16. Hi Joe I have a cheapy from Maplins (do you have Maplins in the US? you can tell I am not very well traveled) it is their own brand and cost probably about 50 dollars in your money.I will take a pic and post it if it's any use to you Kind Regards Nigel
  17. Other than heatsinks,I found the biggest improvement to my soldering was to invest in one of the electronic soldering stations.Because the temperature at the tip is always kept constant it allows you to do each joint quicker than with a normal iron.They are fairly inexpensive now and can replace several different size irons as different tips are available and without looking I am sure mine goes all the way up to 440 deg c Kind Regards Nigel
  18. Hi Mark I had the great pleasure of reading your log for the first time yesterday but thought if I waited overnight I would be able to find the words to express my sheer admiration for your work,trouble is morning is here and I still can't find them! So sorry absolutely astounding will have to do Kind Regards Nigel
  19. I do not care for walnut either.I would go for pear,a lovely wood to work with and easy to stain if you want it darker than it already is. Kind Regards Nigel
  20. Hi Larry,I think what you are trying to ask is which way do they run diagonally.If this is the case,I am not aware of any rules applying to this.I generally make them run the same way in each elevation of the ship.I do make them opposite between the sides of the ship.In my case I make the top treenail in the plank closest to the bow on both sides.The only reason they are diagonal in my mind is to generate the largest clamping area possible,which way they are orientated is immaterial. Kind Regards Nigel
  21. Wow Matti,your paintwork is incredible!!!Really stunning work Buddy Kind Regards Nigel
  22. I will keep this short and sweet as not to detract from Kevin's thread.If you fancy scratchbuilding a wooden Bismarck,here is some food for thought.There is a modeler over here in the UK called Jimmy Wood.Although his specialty is offshore vessels,he works exclusively in wood and brass to the scale of 1/100.Construction wise I cannot foresee much difference building a warship.He has won several gold medals for his work.Here is an example http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Shows/Midlands_2004/Seawell/index.htm Kind Regards Nigel
  23. Glad your impressed Vince.As a matter of a fact I bought the Euromodel plan set for Royal William a couple of weeks back.Even though they are all italian(hence the need for the downloads) there are a few kit companies that could learn a thing or two from them.Very impressive,all seventeen sheets of them.If you wish to add any further detailing of your own,it is all there on the plans.They go far beyond what is included in the kit.If you are wondering why I just bought the plans,they are for a future scratchbuild to a larger scale. Kind Regards Nigel
  24. Very nice clean crisp work Kevin.Just a suggestion,if you could get some plastruct/evergreen styrene section with the correct internal dimensions for your bridge windows,you could cut the holes a little larger and bond this in.Then sand flush and fill if necessary when set Kind Regards Nigel
  25. When I get chance I shall have a hunt for the tutorials,although in japanese,they are by some of their master modelers and there is some pretty amazing stuff. Kind Regards Nigel
×
×
  • Create New...