NMBROOK

A small update
The concept drawing of the size of the engine and location.
 

 
Michael

Just a little more progress carving the sternpost on the port side, I am taking this very slowly.
 

 
This feels like a tricky detail but to all you full keel three mast shipbuilders it probably looks like child's play. this is much more difficult than the keel on the pilot cutter.
 

 

 
Here is a drawing showing the keel at each of the building stations
 

 
A sincere thank you to all who have pushed the like button, I really appreciate it.
 
Michael

Mark sorry I did not answer your question about the glue, it is LePages Carpenters glue. thanks to all who posted likes .
 
today I joined the keel plate to the keel with some 3 inch screws, first I marked the station positions on the plate and the keel, I don't want to glue them together just yet. I am going to do the rough shaping of the plate and the stern post first.
 

 

 

 

 
The stern post is a little more complex than the stem so I am proceeding very cautiously.
 

 

 
I noticed that whole assembly has straightened out a small amount, about 1/32 or a 1/4 inch scale size. I shall have to make sure when I do the final gluing that the curve is maintained.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

I agree Mark,it struck me immediately looking at your last pic.I didn't mention it as I know you are aware of the issues with this particular kit,at least if you are after more historically correct appearance.I wish you the best of luck at achieving a compromise,to try and make everything tie into the original would have meant reprofiling several bulkheads.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Well back to work on Mary Rose after a little vacation.
When I got back home the hull looked even worse to me than it did before I went on vacation.   I am almost glad I have to start over, and I am sure it will come out better this time.  I have been thinking I will try doing the re-build in an upside down Harold Hahn type jig. 
So far I have re-made the keel/stem/sternpost and have make the sloltted base for the build jig. 
 
One idea that I am toying with is building the hull in 3 sections.  Midship section, Sterncastle and Forecastle.  I am thinking it would be easier to detail the interior of the hull with the end of the section open, then join them together.   Any thoughts on that? 
 
 
 

 

Thank you very much Nigel. Looking at the last photo it is my opinion that the problems everyone has building the stern galleries on the Corel kit comes from the shape of the stern being too straight up & down. It seems like it should have more taper from top to bottom. That way the upper gallery would not overlap the lower one so much. However,it is what it is & I will try to make the best of it.
 
/Mark

Hey all! Here are some progress pics:
 
I've put the ropes on the anchors. I based them on the description in Landströms book.

 
I want to have a svabel so I scratched one.

 
 
And here I have rigged one of the anchors, the svabel. I also made and positioned the penterbalk but it's not showing on the pics.

 

 

 
 
/Matti

I received my copy of the DVD today after a short wait for it to come from the USA.In a nutshell and Australian film crew spent 8 weeks filming with Dr Mike in his workshop.Michael Bezverhny is a Russian master modelmaker who at the time this DVD was produced,was the only modeler to ever score a perfect 500/500  in the world shipmodeling championships.He is actually a fully qualified heart surgeon who earns more money building ships to commission.I only actually stumbled on this DVD by per chance when looking at Dr Mike's work on the internet.I do thank Brian C for confirming it was well worth the purchase as he already had a copy.This DVD is by no means a new release,but doesn't appear to have been mentioned here before.
The DVD is just over three hours long and rather than actually following the build of a specific model,Dr Mike demonstrates various techniques used throughout the build process,however is work in progress build 'Rivoli' is used many times to illustrate where the various techniques apply.
Don't expect a Steven Spielberg production as the editing is amateurish and a little disjointed in places,however the is nothing amateurish about the work being demonstrated.On the whole,any builder whatever there level of experience will learn something from this DVD.My only disappointment was that Dr Mike's hot melt adhesive technique for hull plating wasn't shown.
So if you fancy an insight into how IMHO one of the finest,if not the finest model shipbuilders in the world does it,this is well worth a look.
Details can be found at  www.modelshipbuildingsecrets.com
I am in no way affiliated with the production company involved,just a happy customer.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I've collated all the 77 videos available on YouTube of the Australians' visit to Dr. Mike. The complete list (with the  titles in Russian) is at
 
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5wX2_PJGI8sxN_zzXNTWaZ9qi-U_9Zp7
 
I've used Google translate to compile the list in English with links but I find I can't paste the sheet without losing the formatting, and I don't seem to be permitted to attach Word or Excel files. So if anyone wants this list, you can download either the Excel or Word files from DropBox at
 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rx2ygepydpn2kja/AAD5j9X6QiKpQp_MhWU4Fcxla?dl=0
 
 
Tony

Its a couple of weeks later and there is good news and bad.
Good - I liked the way the frames turned out.
Bad - The frames ran past the end of the keel segment.
Lesson learned - Dry fit wherever possible.  Just because the parts measure up, doesn't guarantee the whole will fit.
 
I could take it apart and reuse the pieces, or just add a small piece of keel, but decided to start over.  I think I would do a better job and wanted to try it in boxwood and pear which I have not used before.
I received some rough planks and will use the Byrnes saw and Thickness Planer to mill them to size.  It went pretty well with the basswood and I would like to see the difference in working boxwood and pear.  I like the idea of being able to mill my own materials.  It provides a great deal of flexibility and creates more of a scratch built feeling. 
 
Anyway, attached are the pictures
 
the final basswood plank after milling from larger piece. This is different from the ones posted above as I used the planks milled from the rough cut basswood for the last few frames.

 
This is the set up for cutting. Thanks to MTaylor for hint about using low tack tape on the wood then gluing template. It worked like a charm with the the templates peeling off the cut pieces without a hitch.

 
After cutting and creating all frames began build:

 
Received these Excel clamps (in blue.)  They helped a lot.

 
and so it ended up looking pretty good:

 
Oops:

As you can see, the final frame ran past the end of the keel.
 
I learned much and will see if I can apply it by starting over, this time with boxwood and pear.
 
Richard 

I thought it was about time for an update.  As I explained in my Syren thread, I am learning how to use tools and that is considerably extending the amount of time it takes to perform even simple tasks.  But, I am sure having fun.
 
In order to better work on the frame parts I made the following jig for my micro mill.
 

 
It works great at keeping the room almost sawdust free.
 
Also wanted to increase safety on the table saw 
 

 
And this not only increases safety but also increases the precision of the cuts.
 
Ok, here is where I am to date
 

 

This was next sanded using my proxxon disk sander and the new drum sander. Of course I forgot to take a picture of it finished :-)
I know the lines are already colored blue but wanted to make sure I could identify it if the sanding took out the lines... it didn't.
 
 

 
I had to rework a few of the frames.  Some were skills issues.  A a couple seemed to be poor basswood.  I bought some 3/16 from hobby lobby and a couple of the pieces felt wrong... spongy, but I tried them anyway. 
 
I am practicing this first build in basswood because it is cheap and available.  I have some pear and boxwood planks coming that I can size on my "soon to arrive" Byrnes Thickness Sander.  
 
I may just go ahead and consider the basswood frames as skill building and if it all fits nicely on the keel go back and rebuild using the boxwood or pear. Not sure yet.
 
I did not think I would want to have two builds going at once, but it is nice to take breaks from one to work on the other.  Kinda re-energizes you.  
 
Oh, by the way, is there a top down plan for the Cross section?  I'd like to put it down and use it to guide the assembly. I did not see one in the downloads.
 
and so it goes...
 
Richard

Hi All,
I decided to try my hand at Plank on Frame and this seemed a good way to learn. It will also give me a chance to master turning out planks and frames from wood stock so I get to give some of my tools a workout. 
 
Here is the first section of work:
 

 
I have a copy of Ed Tosti's first Naiad book and am using this build to practice fabricating and using some of his tools.  Here I have created a scraper from a razor blade to make the rabbet. (I dulled the cutting edge first ... I hate trying to get blood stains out of the wood :- )
 
Please provide access to the rest of the plans.
 
Thanks Richard

Started on the galleries - after shaping the kit supplied lower pieces I decided to add some tapered shims to the lower pieces to position them out further so that it would hopefully give a little more clearance for the rear lower tower. After painting them & gluing them on I formed some pieces from basswood & balsa to tie everything together. In the last picture the hull is not crooked - the photo was taken at a slight angle. I would also like to wish everyone at MSW a happy new year
 
/Mark
 

 

 

 

Thanks for the link Vanholdinghausen   I had only come across the armour ones previously.Ninety percent of this stuff isn't on the DVD!!!This must have been footage that was cut out/never used.
Watched two already,it is addictive,that is my building time reduced for the next month or so  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Gosh,many thanks everyone    I will post some pics when sanded and a coat of varnish has been applied.It will give a better indication of the finished process.
The 'treenails' are from soft copper wire Keith.The product I use is designed for electronics and armature winding.I have used brass in the past,but it is a VERY hard slog sanding it flush.I know Alex Banarov uses brass,but he snips the brass off proud and then dresses it flush using a hammer.His models are typically twice the size of mine,I don't fancy hammer wielding on a model of this size.Not only that,but I feel the copper provides a very subtle contrast to the pear,it only really stands out when the light catches it at a certain angle.It will provide a stark contrast against the Ebony sections,but that is the appearance I am after.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Folks!
 
Happy christmas and a hope that you have a happy ending of 2014
Over on Youtube on the chanel "Modelsworldru";
https://www.youtube.com/user/modelsworldru/videos
you can see about 80 (!) videos from what I believe is this Dr Mike. Most of them about 30 mins long!
This might actually BE in part the DVD and MORE.
Prepare for loooong nights I think it is almost an entire build log in video format. And other stuff too.
Really made me wanna order some stuff from Proxxon. Seems to be very nice machines.
 
Cheers!

I felt the need to post some pics to celebrate the completion of the gundeck 'treenailing'.The aft section still needs sanding smooth and I will then apply a coat of thinned poly to protect the deck during future work.A rough count up shows well in excess of 3000 fixings Some sanity has been retained thanks to the music of Vangelis and Hans Zimmer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I felt the need to post some pics to celebrate the completion of the gundeck 'treenailing'.The aft section still needs sanding smooth and I will then apply a coat of thinned poly to protect the deck during future work.A rough count up shows well in excess of 3000 fixings Some sanity has been retained thanks to the music of Vangelis and Hans Zimmer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Lovely work on the treenailing Nigel. Sane is highly over rated!

I felt the need to post some pics to celebrate the completion of the gundeck 'treenailing'.The aft section still needs sanding smooth and I will then apply a coat of thinned poly to protect the deck during future work.A rough count up shows well in excess of 3000 fixings Some sanity has been retained thanks to the music of Vangelis and Hans Zimmer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Gosh,many thanks everyone    I will post some pics when sanded and a coat of varnish has been applied.It will give a better indication of the finished process.
The 'treenails' are from soft copper wire Keith.The product I use is designed for electronics and armature winding.I have used brass in the past,but it is a VERY hard slog sanding it flush.I know Alex Banarov uses brass,but he snips the brass off proud and then dresses it flush using a hammer.His models are typically twice the size of mine,I don't fancy hammer wielding on a model of this size.Not only that,but I feel the copper provides a very subtle contrast to the pear,it only really stands out when the light catches it at a certain angle.It will provide a stark contrast against the Ebony sections,but that is the appearance I am after.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi David
 
I have been giving this some thought and you are limited as to options other than the white bottom.If you stain,the hull would have to be very dark to cope with the dark sections of walnut.Rubbing right down and covering with another layer is feasible using veneer,boxwood strips available in a variety of widths that are only 0.6mm thick from Originalmarquetry.com.The coloured varnish is an option,if you can't get matt,apply two or three coats.When fully hard abrade with steel wool and then apply a matt clear varnish over the top.
Sorry I can't offer an easy fix.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nice to see the planking take shape Mark using the different woods for the colour contrasts is a great way to go.
 
Michael

Thank you Alistair You're post made me chuckle,I am wrestling tiny eyebolts into gun carriages little bigger than my thumbnail as I write this   I think that is case in point
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I felt the need to post some pics to celebrate the completion of the gundeck 'treenailing'.The aft section still needs sanding smooth and I will then apply a coat of thinned poly to protect the deck during future work.A rough count up shows well in excess of 3000 fixings Some sanity has been retained thanks to the music of Vangelis and Hans Zimmer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel