NMBROOK

Grating construction Part one.
 
Not only do I want to produce  more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
 
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
 
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.

The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.

 
 
To be continued
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Grating construction Part one.
 
Not only do I want to produce  more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
 
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
 
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.

The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.

 
 
To be continued
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Grating construction Part one.
 
Not only do I want to produce  more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
 
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
 
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.

The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.

 
 
To be continued
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Grating construction Part one.
 
Not only do I want to produce  more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
 
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
 
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.

The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.

 
 
To be continued
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Grating construction Part one.
 
Not only do I want to produce  more historically accurate gratings,I wanted to produce them in Pear to match the rest of the model.As far as I am aware A.Banarov is the only producer of grating kits in Pear but ordering some gratings from Odessa would be a bit extreme,even for me
 
I decided that the ledges and battens would be 1.5mm wide with holes 1mm square.This gave a scale hole size of 60mm by 60mm.The way I have decided to produce these should enable scale holes for Royal William by adjusting the centres I work to on the miller.
 
The first step was to make some sacrificial jigs.These comprise of some mdf cut to a suitable size to allow easy clamping on the miller table.On to this I bonded some pear strip machined with 1.5mm wide slots at 2.5mm centres.

The next stage was to bond some 1.5mm by 2.5mm pear ledges into the slots.When dry the top was faced off in the miller and then perpendicular slots machined 1.2mm deep into the ledges.The gratings will be thinned in depth further when the battens are glued in place.Keeping everything oversize to start with,eliminates any deflection of the ledges whilst machining.It is my intention to curve the assembled piece after assembly and removal from the jig as everything will be far too thin to allow the curved face to be sanded on.

 
 
To be continued
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Continuation.
 
I started stacking the outer skin.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
I fit components of the deck.
 

 

 

 
 

 

 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update finishing-up the anchors; I decided to use the Corel provided stocks (the two light wood pieces are from “I don’t remember” were).
 
The anchors should be attached to two separate half stalks. I faked this by using a micro saw blade to imitate the two halves. Weak, but looks ok. Though I needed to add a shunt to fix the anchors in place.
 
Then went down to the kitchen to take command of some of the Admiral’s designer for “guest” toothpicks.  Photos are self-explanatory so will keep this brief. The Vasa did not use metal framing, but instead had treenails for joining the two halves, along with four metal bolts.
 
-----------------------------
 
My first attempt at wrapping the anchor rings with rope was, well a failure. As you can see-oops- not enough rope length on my first attempt. Second and third tries were charms. Using tarred rope was a question, but the 1/10th did not, so I mimicked that thought.
 
As I went along, I used GS Hypo to fix in place the three or four loops at a time. Came out better than I expected. After dabbing the glue I used a finger to remove excess. This glue is really cool. As you can see the glue disappears.
 
Last few pics just for the visual. Need to attach and fix anchor’s main ropes etc.…though not sure about the anchor rope, maybe too thick??  
 
Also need to make two buoys per Landström’s drawings. Speaking of whom the correct details for wrapping the rings with rope are SO beyond my skills, I saw the pic and started laughing…..
 
PS: Only port side will have the fish-davit, for a “transition look”.
PS2: Yes those eight brass nails should be black, got lazy on this bit. Time will dull them (;-)
 
As always thanks so much for your dropping by.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Stunning work mate I think you will have no problems with the ratlines other than the fact it is so time consuming.You started the rigging with much trepidation but your abilities are shining through
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A little further progress. I've completed the fore top (with one exception).I assembled the trestletrees and crosstrees and the mast block and glued them in place under the top. I then drilled all the holes for the deadeyes, the crowsfeet, the spritsail brace blocks, some eyebolts and to mount the railing. I also cut the hole for the lower yard slings and made and added the sling bolster. The assembly was painted black. The railing was made from a boxwood rail and brass stanchions, painted black and glued into the previously drilled holes. The eyebolts were glued in place. Lastly, I stropped the deadeyes and mounted them. The only item remaining was the spritsail brace blocks, which I had forgotten to order from Chuck, and am now awaiting.
 
I'm now working on the lower fore mast, and will complete that before moving back to the main top and lower main mast.
 
Bob

Wonderfully clean and crisp work Jack
 
Kind regards
 
Nigel

Look what I got in the mail today 

Starting work on my keel and maybe the midship frame next week 

Hey Group,
 
Still plugging away on the fenders and I'm about finished with them - photos soon.  
 
I'm considering finishing the WVH - she has sentimental value to me.  The first step would be to sand off the wipe on poly - paint the hull tallow below the waterline, and apply my tung oil/ bitumen mix to age the planking that will be not painted. 
 
I've changed my mind so many times about my next project - so who knows (smile). 
 
Chris

Thank you very much indeed Tom
Pear is a joy to work with.I have steamed it,but find a quick soak in water is enough for all but the tightest of bends.It does have a good degree of natural bendability pretty similar to boxwood but it is much more absorbent so steaming or soaking is a much quicker process.
 
Kind regards
 
Nigel

Hi mate
The 'ladders' are invariably tied in with the next set of lower deadeyes,so these would need fitting first.
When fitting the ratlines it is best to try and not create any twisting in the thread,this causes the 'worm' appearance and makes it harder to get the thread to sag.As Mark says dilute PVA painted on helps you to control the thread.My suggestion would be to cut some strips of Plasticard a couple of mm narrower than the distance between the shrouds.Place a fold in the middle and hang these on the ratlines after applying dilute PVA.The weight of these strips should induce the desired sag and hold it whilst the glue dries off.The dilute PVA should not stick to the plasticard.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great suggestion Nigel, I'll keep that in mind when testing the white glue mix!
 
Cheers!
 
/Matti

Hi mate
The 'ladders' are invariably tied in with the next set of lower deadeyes,so these would need fitting first.
When fitting the ratlines it is best to try and not create any twisting in the thread,this causes the 'worm' appearance and makes it harder to get the thread to sag.As Mark says dilute PVA painted on helps you to control the thread.My suggestion would be to cut some strips of Plasticard a couple of mm narrower than the distance between the shrouds.Place a fold in the middle and hang these on the ratlines after applying dilute PVA.The weight of these strips should induce the desired sag and hold it whilst the glue dries off.The dilute PVA should not stick to the plasticard.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Stunning work mate I think you will have no problems with the ratlines other than the fact it is so time consuming.You started the rigging with much trepidation but your abilities are shining through
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ahoy Nigel
 
First and foremost: Thank you. I consider it my good fortune to have someone of your caliber follow my build. 
 
As for the strength issue when considering the two layers of planking. "As is" Corel's keel, bulkhead, and stringer combination has created a mass that could be considered a deadly weapon. It really is a testament to the strength of a box. With the hull being so rigid I was hoping to do the first layer of planking as a guide for the second working out the steelers. drop planks and my planking skills. On the wales the kit uses different widths which should stagger the seams. I do agree that crossing the seams would create additional strength but I am not sure that much strength is needed. Currently without any planks this hull is as rigid as my fully planked Rattlesnake.  I plan to put some treenails in the first layer to "lock" it down to the bulkheads; just to be safe. 
 
Also Thank you for the tip on the Walnut. i had previously purchased a sheet from ME and sadly you are spot on. It is a beautiful piece but isn't even close 

Looking good JPett I am following along in the background I wouldn't be overly worried about getting the plank run bang on,it is always preferable to have a little miss match between planking layers for strength reasons.Spiling the second layer in this area is a good idea and you can alleviate the need for any stealers.When you come to buy the walnut sheet,I do advise you either take with you,or mail an offcut to your supplier.Walnut can vary massively in colour.
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Ahoy Mates
 
Mark: The idiot club does have a lot of members. I am on the board. Really it isn't a horrible thing but does highlight why many prefer scratch. Having someone someones else do the  thinking (here it is Corel) does have it's drawbacks. 
 
Back to the Build 
 
Speaking of idiots and the things that can occur when they think 
 
I am always trying to learn and perhaps I have too much fascination for the working of the world. With this in mind; I have decided to try and take advantage of this situation to better understand the dynamics of hull shape and plank direction 
 
Here it is more filler shape as it seems the hull shape is fine. See pic 1. The sweep of the plank as it lies on the bulkheads is excellent. I used my mounted pencil jig and marked the hull where the last Wale plank should be. Where it follows the contour I designed in my fillers "not so good". My pencil jig allows me to achieve a much higher level of accuracy then the method I previously used. This is highlighted where I marked the false cannon support which I now see is 2mm too high. We will let this slide.  
 
As this is just the first layer of planking I have room to play and play we will 
 
In the stern you can see I need to make an adjustment to get the plank to come up more as it wraps around the filler 
 
In the bow i have the exact opposite. The plank needs to come down a bit to hit its mark. I tried "brute force" and the plank started to clinker. Where as i could buy some Walnut sheets and spile these planks on the second planking I want to see if I can make some adjustments to my fillers and correct this. I also have some room here. I can make minor changes when I sand this first layer to alter the direction of next layer of planks.
 
The last pic shows I still have a ways to go learning to sand. While sanding the deck to match the outline of the bulkheads I beefcaked the bulkheads and now need to repair them. When will I learn "not" to do this "lol" 

Just sand the heck out of it.  The wood is thick enough and can take it.   Start with 220 grit and then follow up with some really fine stuff.   I see this all the time in my local club.  For whatever reason they are scared and nervous about it.  They dont think 1/32" or even 1/16' thick strips can take sanding.   Usually I just ask the model builder if I can grab the hull and show them.  Its a very easy thing to do and there is no danger at all.  Most of the glue will not have soaked well below the surface at all.    Surface prep is key to getting a good finish.   Sanding with a fine grit will leave a super smooth surface free of glue stains and show no blotches..  
 
If you are still nervous about it...plank a dummy piece of wood and leave similar stains and blotches...test it out to see how far you can go and what it will look like after you are done.
 
Chuck

I would go for the first mate,but I am biased  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Continuation.
 
 

Continuation