NMBROOK

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time for an update as the last one was several months ago   .
 
I have fitted the waterway and quickwork to the other internal hull face and completed the planking of the deck.I am currently completing  the exposed frame finishing pieces and working on the deck finish.I anticipate many coats of poly rubbed down every three coats.This gives a glass like surface as whilst I wish to see joints in the woodwork,I don't want to be able to feel them.
I feel these pictures may be a little on the red side.The pear is definitely brown with no hint of red,trouble is outdoor daylight pics are hard to come by as its dark when at home during the week and we have had some awful weather on the weekends
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After a little absence,I have something of an update.Aside from very little time,my broadband connection is giving me grief   Either lightning fast or more commonly working at a snails past.I shall contact my provider and give them what for when in the right frame of mind.
Anyway,half the deck planked,given a scrape and light sand and then a couple of coats of poly to prevent glue marks whilst working on the other side.I have moved away from shellac as firstly,I like the variation of tones and secondly it means I can use my acrylic ageing techniques should I choose.I am ,due to the pleasing appearance,considering NOT treenailing and risk spoiling the effect.
The other side of the hull is now built and shaped so my next job is to sort the upper gunport frames on this side.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a little progress,these figures are taking about six hours each on account of the small size.The faces are 2.5mm across.
Kind Regards Nigel

I thought I would post some pics as they clearly show the stages involved in the prow ornamentation.I laminated 1.5mm pear sections on to the outside of the upper and lower rails inbetween where the uprights sit.You can see one in the first pic.The top and bottom rails were shaped and tapered leaving stubs where the uprights sit.The uprights were shaped form pears stock to fit over all three rails.The uprights will have the central carving carried out off the model and the rest will be done after fitting.This is to get the correct shape of the wrapround top and bottom.
Kind Regards Nigel

Just a small update.Work is progressing well on the pediment carvings,but as they are only 6mmx8mm I gave up trying to take a decent picture.I have now fitted the first and the autofocus on the iphone works now the carving is fitted to the hull.I am actually up to 5 out of 6, but because I am putting two coats of varnish and then leaving 24 hours before fitting,it will be a couple of days before they are all fitted.
Kind Regards Nigel

I first cut six pear blocks to the correct overall size of the pediments.The back face of these was bonded onto the end of some boxwood strip for handling.I set a jig up on the pillar drill(no miller yet)and cut the scallops in the front face.I then set another jig up to cut small slots on the sides to create the top cap.By doing these two operations,it should make it easier to carve them consistantly.I think the pictures are fairly self explanatory.
Kind Regards Nigel

The next step was to increase the definition around the sides of the skull.I have drilled 0.4mm holes as a start point for the eye sockets and nasal cavity.The crutial point is the nasal cavity is central top to bottom in the skull otherwise the proportions will be incorrect.I have also started chipping away at the hairline and I am introducing some rounding to the head.The next step is the cheekbone area which is the main difference between a skull and a face
Kind Regards Nigel

Just a pic of the completed carving.I have given it one coat of varnish for protection.It looks much darker than in real life due to lighting.
Kind Regards Nigel

dear all,
 
we do need a bit of a change every now and then, don't we?
I started on the second galley, which is sort of a double-sided open fire cooking site. No idea what the proper nautical or english term is.
I am using air-drying modelling clay for the brick work.
 
Tom
 

Nigel,
 
I like your approach. As you probably know there are some heavy duty double sided tapes available these days so it may not be necessary to look beyond them for a fix and this would allow reversion to the original state if a particular job required full clearance. 
 
Mike.

Likewise Brian, I bought the Keith Julier book (Vol. 1) secondhand and devoured what KeithJ said before opening up the kit box and looking at its contents. It was then that I realized I could improve on what KeithJ did (with no disrespect intended) and it was a great starting point for my build. Now we have VinceP and KeithW (and BrianC is also very active on his great RW creation) creating marvelous works of art which just go way beyond what I had time to do (or could do) . Their works show how far you can go beyond what a kit can readily provide ... and then there are the elite builds of the Royal William such as that by Nigel Brooks. Sorry guys if I missed out somebody but there are so many and these names just come to mind.
Pete
 
PS Keep these works going shipmates and see how far you can stretch the envelope. Very exciting

I think the easiest solution for the MF70 would be to remove the handle from the handwheel and fit it to a larger disc.Then glue the disc to the handwheel.However,having machined pieces recently that overhang the table,whilst they may be enough clearance,it would be nigh on impossible to turn a larger diameter handwheel in this instance.I struggled with the standard setup.The only other option would be to pack the workpiece up,but then you reduce the height capacity.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All, just a word to let ye all know that I haven't fallen off the Planet or anything, work/planning continues on Ballier...
 
Most recently I neatened the 'hole' where the rudder head pokes through the deck..
 
Filed out the Gun Ports properly.. they were bugging me !!
 
And placed an order for an Ordinance Upgrade.. this is currently the hold up as they appear to be out of stock (even though 'In Stock' was on the Web Site.. I have NO LUCK at all with Cornwall Model Boats    )
 
Today I even attempted to Blacken my Kit guns.. weirdly it took 3 Sessions to get them dark (the mixture went very cloudy very quickly.. with little or no 'action' afterwards, so I changed out the chemicals ) reckon it will take another dipping or two to get them where I want them (I may have to use them you see, as it has been a while since my CMB order) they are a very dark grey at present.
Indecently I followed the Blackening tips from a Log on here called The Blacken-It Trials link below..
 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6977-the-blacken-it-trials/
 
I even test faired a piece of dowel in anticipation of hitting Balliers Masts shortly..
 
Will be off to Venice for a little Hollier ('Vacation' to my friends across the Pond) the week after next so will probably hold off any big shipyard work till after ..
 
Stay Well Folks & Catch Ya Later,
 
Eamonn

Thank you very much guys! Your kind comments make the work with the dead eyes more fun.
 
/Matti

She is looking great mate and some very nice pictures
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

looking for the jig for the jewelers saw I found the chap who I was looking for, William Robertson designed a special holder to cut dovetails and other joints with a jewelers saw, i am still looking for this jig but in the meantime enjoy his amazing work.
I think we could all use a set of these tools.

 
Michael

Cheers pops!
 
I tried to take dark background images earlier. I don't get why the LED lights look so weird in the image. IRL it is quite dim and have a grey/greenish tone, as the windows are tinted. The camera pick the light up as bright and almost blue.
 

 

 
Now it's back to shaping deadeyes and the metal parts for them so I can continue with the foremast.
 
 
Thanks for the likes everyone!
 
 
Matti

Hello everyone
Here`s where i`m at - continued planking up to the position of the uppermost whale. I decided to do some nailing on the hull planks.There seems to be no pattern to the nailing on the real ship so I followed no pattern to my nailing.The nails I am using are actually model railroad items called micro spikes.They are really small - used a #77 drill bit to drill the holes. I didn`t want it to look like it had the measles so I used the smallest "nails" I could find. It may be overkill as they are hard to see at more than about a foot away.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Thank you for all the "likes" and comments. 
 
Hawse timbers... version 4.5 (1 side was replaced once, the other twice).   The hard part (to me) is that lines drawing give no shape to the bow forward of the first cant fram so I'm fumbling with templates and photos.  I think I'm close.  I've filled in most of the low spots and sanded down the highs.  Cherry has this nice feature  that if it ages a bit and darkens, when you sand it the sanded parts become light. This, coupled with a batten and templates gives you a pretty good idea of where one stands in the fairing.
 
They still need more fairing but I need to hold off a bit.  Frankly, I'm getting tired of the sawdust in the air at the moment.     The reality is, I need to put in the gunport sills and fair those in.  And then the interior.  The deck clamp "knees" (actualy just nubs of wood) need to be worked such to give a smooth sheer to the clamps.  I'll have to hold on the clamps though, until the stern is finished.
 
Yes, I'm avoiding the stern like the plague.  Hahn doesn't give you a template on the plans for the transoms so I'm sorting this out.  I have the stern framing showing height and width of the timbers, the side showing the location and depth but no top view showing the shape.  Again, much staring at the prints and Hahn's limited build photos.  This seems to be one of those areas that are "up to the builder" to sort out like the quarter galleries.   Speaking of which I'm also sorting out that area as it's not really defined on the prints as to timbers.  However, I'm putting together a plan, which if it works I'll happy dancing for weeks.
 
So... to the pictures.  The first three show the hawse timbers and cant frames.  None of this will be visible when planked.  The last is kinda' artsy-craftsy looking at the interior so I can get an idea of amount of fairing in there to be done.
 




 
 
As always, feel free to click on any picture to enlarge it to full size.  Oh.. sorry for the sawdust and debris.  I really need to hit this with the shop vac.

I've been working on two areas --one successfully and one not so much. The bowsprit is done, but not yet permanently installed. The work included tapering and shaping the piece, making and adding the bees and bee blocks, making and adding the cap, making and adding the dolphin striker, making and adding the gammoning cleats, jib boom saddle and spritsail sling saddle and adding the single woolding. The bowsprit itself is a dowel, stained with golden oak stain, and the other wooden parts are boxwood. The bowsprit will not be mounted until the various hearts and deadeyes have been attached.
 
 I have made the hearts from boxwood strip and the deadeyes I'm using are from Model Expo. I am now in the process of making their collars.
 
The less productive work that I've been doing is on the figurehead. I can only describe my efforts to date, both with clay and wood, to be embarrassingly pathetic. So bad in fact that I took no pictures and won't even describe the results. I need to do some rethinking. 
 
Bob

Probably the last work before saving Pandora to hibernate - deck in the officers cabin, gluing the main deck beams.