NMBROOK

Your fish davit looks the business Michael I love the accompanying reference pics with your posts
You shouldn't have any issues with milling your knightheads,just keep the cuts small in depth as I assume you will be using the 1mm cutter.Thinking through your dimensions thoroughly enables use of the xy table dials to the full and is much more accurate than working to pencil lines.It is just a case of setting the cutter edge to the edge of the workpiece and let the dials do the rest.The main thing to watch for is allowing for half the cutter diameter where necessary and remember to work centre to centre for the slots I find drawing it out on paper and writing how many millimetres between each cut on the sketch invaluable,i.e. the distance on the dials,doing it whilst milling adds to the confusion and mistakes been there done that
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Your fish davit looks the business Michael I love the accompanying reference pics with your posts
You shouldn't have any issues with milling your knightheads,just keep the cuts small in depth as I assume you will be using the 1mm cutter.Thinking through your dimensions thoroughly enables use of the xy table dials to the full and is much more accurate than working to pencil lines.It is just a case of setting the cutter edge to the edge of the workpiece and let the dials do the rest.The main thing to watch for is allowing for half the cutter diameter where necessary and remember to work centre to centre for the slots I find drawing it out on paper and writing how many millimetres between each cut on the sketch invaluable,i.e. the distance on the dials,doing it whilst milling adds to the confusion and mistakes been there done that
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work mate!! I wouldn't envy the sailor whose job it was to shimy along the bowsprit
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks so much for your supportive suggestions, comments, likes and just looking in, all are very much appreciated.
 
Continuing with the braces for the anchors; I focused on the single fish davit beam that was employed to help raise the anchor flutes towards the gunwales.  Only one beam was recovered indicative of the single beam being moved port to starboard as needed.
 
------------------
 
I used a sanding disk to thin out a piece of wood. Then tapered both upper edges, added grooves on its outer tip and inner ends as well.
 
Added the required ropes and blocks.
 
Drilled four holes in the weather deck to simulate the two rope attaching laces.
 
Knotted two pieces of rope together using a Carrick bend.  This knot was a guess (I’m good at that J)
 
Glued the two ropes and also added glue to the knot ends to simulate a natural relaxed looking resting appearance on the deck
 
The last three pics are for my next area, still repairing previous mistakes, and will be giving my Proxxon milling machine its first real user test for adding the grooves  into the knightheads - Hmmmm Let’s see how that goes.
 
---------------------------
 
YES I am sooo irritated at myself for not recessing the gun deck cannon framings. I had thought of it as I was inserting the four bits per opening but the lip seemed too thin AND my skills then were not as good as they are now.. Now its really too late for a retro fix.    Next time….
 
Always my regards,
 
Michael

Hey again!
 
I've mounted the bowsprit and finished the ropes holding it.
 

 

 

 
It was lots of work as I had to reshape thin down the L shaped timbers holding the bow. Looking back I think it was good to wait with drilling the rope holes until knowing where to put them. That gave me liberty to arrange the beek head "floor planks" the way I wanted and then arrange the rope holes acccording to them, not the other way around. That said, I would have thinned down the L shaped parts slightly pre assembly to make it easier to get room for the holes, and this is a tip for builders of the kit. This way made me nervous about destroying anything...
 
I never was happy with the paint job on the lower beakhead parts, and this gave me an opportunity to make it better.
 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
Edit: I just realized that I didn't explain that the kit construction is with the ropes running "outside" the lower beakhead construction (wrong). Remember that I broke the beakhead earlier and strengthened it when repairing it. This made my beakhead stronger and that's good when doing this mod to the build.

Hi Karl
Your carving is just the icing on the cake of what is an exemplary piece of model building  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
Thank you,
that sounds great and interesting to see, will be watching out for...
 
Nils

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Karl
Your carving is just the icing on the cake of what is an exemplary piece of model building  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nils     I am working on Mordaunt as well as Royal William There will be an update when I have reached the point of symetry and new things start to happen.I can't believe how long it takes to lay a deck with curved and tapered planking   Just three plank runs left to finish the deck now,but at around four hours per run and limited time on an evening,things are slow.I have also decided how I am going to make the scratchbuilt pear gratings so they will feature in the next update I just have to decide whether to go for Ebony or Pear combings,the main deck will feature profiled Ebony combings to match the black ones on the contemporary model.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nils     I am working on Mordaunt as well as Royal William There will be an update when I have reached the point of symetry and new things start to happen.I can't believe how long it takes to lay a deck with curved and tapered planking   Just three plank runs left to finish the deck now,but at around four hours per run and limited time on an evening,things are slow.I have also decided how I am going to make the scratchbuilt pear gratings so they will feature in the next update I just have to decide whether to go for Ebony or Pear combings,the main deck will feature profiled Ebony combings to match the black ones on the contemporary model.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nils     I am working on Mordaunt as well as Royal William There will be an update when I have reached the point of symetry and new things start to happen.I can't believe how long it takes to lay a deck with curved and tapered planking   Just three plank runs left to finish the deck now,but at around four hours per run and limited time on an evening,things are slow.I have also decided how I am going to make the scratchbuilt pear gratings so they will feature in the next update I just have to decide whether to go for Ebony or Pear combings,the main deck will feature profiled Ebony combings to match the black ones on the contemporary model.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel,
 
I was missing your Progress on the wonderful "Mordaunt" hull, is there a Holiday on ice in the Moment ?
 
Nils

This will be my first scratch build 
So after getting some books from ANCRE my choice fell on La Belle and the configuration it had under Cavellier de la Salle’s 1684 expedition.
It is mentioned in Frölich's book as one of the easier ships for a beginner to scrach building. (We'll see about that...)
 
Just order some pearwood from Arkowood, this will be the main building blocks for this model.
I have some boxwood I'll use for carvings and decorations, later I'll order some ebony for wales, railings and blocks.
In a couple of weeks (when my salary comes in) some Proxxon powertools are coming my way from germany.
 
One of the big reasons for this picking this build is it's relativly nice size.
 
Size of the model  
                         Length  Width  Height
Hull                     54        15        18
Model rigged      62         24        52
 

 
Links of interest:
http://olivier.gatine.free.fr/modeles.html
http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report1/
http://ancre.fr/en/monographies-en/30-monographie-de-la-belle-barque-1680.html

A little update - decided to start the second planking. I chose not to use the supplied mahogany planking below the lower whales. I had some leftover walnut from another kit & decided to use it.the planking on the real ship is varied with all kinds of different length & width planks with lots of scarph joints so I thought I would show some of them - not all - there`s just too many.The planking at the bow is especially odd with lots of odd shaped short planks.
 

 

 

 
As odd as the bow planking is there are only 2 stealers at the stern!
 
/Mark

Well, for better or worse, I installed the cathead supports and eking. I still wasn't entirely happy, but I had had enough of it.  After finishing that, I had a burst of activity and did the seats of ease, the anchor billboards and the waist gang board rails.
 
The supports and eking are boxwood, as are the seats and billboards. The waist railing uses the same brass stanchions that I used for the quarterdeck ladderway, with a rope railing. 
 
The remaining work on the head is the figurehead, the iron railings and supports and the boomkins. The railings and boomkins won't be done until I've made and installed the bowsprit and done the gammoning. My Sculpey and a set of clay modeling tools just arrived from Amazon, so I'll start experimenting with the figurehead. I'll probably also start working on the bowsprit at the same time.
 
Remaining work on the hull consists of the deadeyes, the hammock stanchions and netting, the anchors, the lantern and the boat(s). It is my current intention not to do any of this until I have at least made and installed the lower masts.
 
Bob

Lower deck - it will not be visible, but I made test how the deck will look with black paper and treenails. I made about 3500 pieces of treenails (diameter 0.55 mm), so I have a sufficient supply for any remaining deck.

This will mark the beginning of my project to build the prototype for the Cutter Cheerful.  The plans are completed and I am getting ready to release the plans in a few months.  I will be building her out of Boxwood or possibly even Pau marfin.  I havent decided.  This project is a POB build as you can see from the details in the plans posted below.  Its not a very cumbersome project with just a cutter rig to deal with.  She is carvel planked and not Clinker planked.  This is one of the reasons why I chose it as a subject.
 
Once I have the skeleton built and the hull planked,  the plans will be released. The remainder of the project is pretty straight forward and doesnt need much of an explanation.  I just need to prove out the design concepts for the hull skeleton.  It shouldnt take too long.  I will be writing a monograph as I build her and posting it on my website for free download as well as here on MSW should folks want to read it.  But as I stated,  I wont need to finish the entire project to release the plans as they are really straight forward.  At a 1/4" scale...the hull will be 28 inches long and 26" tall.  A nice size yet built at a larger scale to show some great details.  
 
I am finally at a point with the Syren store where my inventory is quite full and I will be able to enjoy working on both the Winnie and the Cheerful for several hours each day.  I just cant wait to get started.  Having a laser cutter doesnt hurt either.  It will save me much time.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Ebony is a beautiful and stunning wood. But it can be a bear cat to work with. Super hard. Not easily bendable. Dulls blades and the dust is like coal. But the end result I worth. Many years ago I went to an antique show in the suburb of Winnetka at an old manor. I saw coffee table made from ebony with maple trim, a first. I almost fainted. It was perfect. I forgot the price. Today I doubt it could be done.
David B

Excellent work mate and some fabulous pictures I agree,the rigging will make an even bigger impact to an already stunning model.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello Nigel!
Yes I do agree. Today in fact, I looked through some nice pieces of ebony. I will definitely work with ebony soon. I wanted to give this method a thorough testing for those who might be limited in choice by conviction or pocket book
 
Always a pleasure to hear from you!
 
Bill

Hi Bill
 
With your woodworking experience I would give serious consideration to using the real deal.I used to shy away from Ebony after reading all the 'negative press' but one day I thought I would give it a go as a bit of a challenge.Now I have sussed all the little idiosyncrasies of working with this timber,I do actually find it both a pleasure and rewarding to work with.Just a thought my friend.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel 

Hi Michael,
My avatar is our dog, Buster, and he is a lovable little guy.
 
I think the consensus is that your artistry trumps any deviations in accuracy. You had me hooked with the scarf jointed planks and 3 sizes of nails back on page 1!

Wednesday, September 17, 2014
 
After a few days of inactivity due to a dental intervention that I cannot define as "simple routine", today I felt able to resume works without taking risks and so I started to cut out the bulkheads of the brig.
Usual method: printing of the bulkheads using my computer with AutoCAD, gluing the paper over the plywood and cutout of the piece with the scrollsaw . . except ending the day using the coping saw which I found to need less time overall.
Let me better explain: using the scroll saw, which as I already had occasion to write is not a simple tame horse, I'm forced to go rather slowly in order to avoid to do damages, and, always for the same reason, I cut a little generous. As a result I have a lot of work with a file and sanding blocks, making a lot of fine powder very annoying. However at the end the bulkhead is near perfect.
But then I realized that, having to work on rather soft poplar plywood, if I use the coping saw, it takes me more or less the same time to cut but the result is 99.5% accurate, and consequently the finishing stage is minimal and I save a lot of time. Moral: I save time with the same result.
Now, I do not mean that manually is better than with the powertool, but in this case, thanks to favorable circumstances, it proved to me the best method. So I guess for the remaining bulkheads to proceed manually. 
Finally here below shown the frames ready, the first six from the bow. They are dry mounted on the keel to make sure everything is well in place. 
 
01 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/CAM00322_zpsded718c4.jpg

 
02 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/CAM00323_zps321a2cd8.jpg

 
03 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/CAM00324_zps6edb10ed.jpg

 
Even the longitudinal reinforcement seem to fit perfectly. . I think I'm on the right way.
 
04 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/CAM00326_zpse004032f.jpg

A touch of color and personalization. .
 
05 Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/CAM00325_zps6918e259.jpg

 
To the next message . . Jack.

Saturday, August 30, 2014  
Yesterday afternoon I decided to start to cut out the keel and the bulkheads. For the bulkheads I went, during the morning, in a timber warehouse where I had cut about thirty tablets of poplar plywood (5mm thick and measuring 15 x 20cm). 
Considering the amount of cuts to perform I setup the power Proxxon jigsaw that I show here below
 
Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/IMG_2280_zps740fa05b.jpg

 
Before working seriously I printed a couple of bulkheads and pasted them on a 5mm plywood that I already had in the workshop. Why this ? Just to avoid to waste the precious tablets bought in the morning. I had the need to become familiar with the power jigsaw which is a tool that, like as some wild horses, cannot be guided too easily and you need to know him better, otherwise it goes where he wants. . 
 
So I cut out a couple of bulkheads, with results not so much satisfactory. Then I repeated a few more tests to improve the result coming to the conclusion that I would have used the power tool for straight and slightly curved cuts but not when it was necessary to cut tight curves or corners. In this latter two cases I prefer to use the manual jigsaw. 
 
So I started to cut the three elements that make up the keel, work that I managed quite well and I used, during the refining phases, the bulkheads I cut previously just to evaluate all the joints: some were right since the beginning, others I had to adjust them with a flat file. So happily, I planned to close this first day on this new model at the pub with a nice beer . . when, at the last moment I said, "let's try one of the tablets 15 x 20".
And I've had a nice surprise: instead of being 5mm thick the tablets were 6mm !!!!! GOOD START. . HOPE A LUCKY PROJECT . .
 
Briefly all the joints on the keel would be widened, but being the keel made with a 7 layers birch plywood, rather hard, it is not so easy to remove 0.5mm on both sides of each joint, so I cursed the timber warehouse and I went to get my beer, as you can presumably imagine, a little nervous . . 
In the evening, however, I decided to redo from scratch the keel with the joints of the right width and, since I had already got to realize that all the frames included in the first project version are probably too many for a POB hull, I decided to reduce them in number, while maintaining the same number only fore and aft. 
 
This morning I already changed the AutoCAD design and when I'll resume the will to breathe sawdust I'll just make them again. For now, I propose the new version of the keel:
 
Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/V015Brick24Keel_zpsa04a44c3.jpg 

 
See you again soon, Jack.Aubrey.