NMBROOK

I'm just back from a week long golf trip with my wife and three other couples, and after playing 6 times in 7 days, I was ready for a rest from golf and eager to get back to modeling. This combination resulted in a burst of activity.
 
I returned to work on the forecastle. First I realized that I had left off the knees on the belfry/barricade, so made and added them. Then I made and added the splash guards at the bow. These were cut from boxwood and bent to shape. Next, I made and mounted the 8 required timber heads. Theses were done from boxwood strip in the usual fashion of shaping each of them fully before cutting it from the strip. They were then painted and pinned and glued in place.
 
The last and most intricate work was making up the catheads. These were made from boxwood. notches were cut with a chisel to fit over the rail and the remainder of the shaping done with files. I did simulated sheaves, as I have done throughout this build. Next, I made and mounted the cleats and thumb cleats. Lastly, I added the necessary eyebolts. The catheads were then mounted in place.
 
I'm now moving on to the rough tree rail, which  will be the last of the forecastle work.
 
Bob

Фотосессия. С отделкой корпуса при ярком солнечном свете. Снятый на профессиональной камерой. Наконец исполнение соответствуют действительности. И это хорошо.

Я готовлю для изготовления канатов такелажных.
Природный решение и, следовательно, естественную текстуру и цвет

Hi Jack
I have to concur with what others have said,the nails look fabulous and looking back at the older pictures,the ship just looked bare without them.I know you will have no regrets joining the NRG,I find some of the articles in the journals a mine of information.Sadly distance prevents me from attending any of their gatherings,at least for the time being,but one day
I do agree with Vivian,you are certainly helping promote Billings' kit.It took me all my time not to pull the trigger on one this week on Ebay
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All
Just a follow up post showing the above deck section scraped and given a coat of poly.The planking does not go to the edges due to how this section fits into the Norske Love's skeleton
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello I've been here for a long time did not appear. I decided to show you one of my work. This figure of an angel on the French Le Ambitieux. I love the model of this ship, which makes an Italian master. It was in his review and saw this figure of the angel. It wanted to try to do it yourself. And that's what happened. I did it for fun, it's not an order.







 
 
This photos from the competition, they were held in May in St. Petersburg. I went there to participate with their works.

A little more progress - all yards mounted. just a few more lines left like braces,anchors,flags,& a few misc.items.note the hooks & rings on the lower end of the mizzen lateen yard - I think this is correct.That light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter...........
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark

Hello all. another little update - fore & main yards mounted & rigged except for the braces - they will be last. Tried to get pictures with a dark background so the light rigging shows up better.The running rigging is a little too light colored but I am not going to re-do it.
 

 

 

 

 
/Mark
 
 

Hi Nigel,
 
Thank you for looking in and all the kind words.  I was amazed how much difference the nails made as well.
 
I actually first bought the Amati kit and upgraded before I started.  The Billing Boats kit was larger and the only kit out there with the scrollwork provided.  The thing that I like the least is the large amount of plywood used and all the exposed ends.  I had committed to covering these early on.  Adding bulkheads to get the deck planking the right proportion was not something I planned on but with the urging of Von_Kossa I am really glad that I did it.  When I purchased the kit I liked that it had wooden shields but they are really sad so replacement was a given, again the inspiration came from Von_Kossa.  I was spending a lot of time wishing that I had cut all the hull planks from oak but now that the nails are there that is no longer a problem..
 
Thanks again for dropping by.

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As well as a central pin,one trick that works well,that I learnt from Keith Julier's books,is to drag the complete carriage very lightly over abrasive paper on a flat surface.This puts a tiny flat on each wheel,you can apply a little glue to these flats and it is not visible when fitted.For some reason the carriages look better as they seem fitted rather than hovering on the surface,I can't explain why,it must be one of those tricks on the eye  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As well as a central pin,one trick that works well,that I learnt from Keith Julier's books,is to drag the complete carriage very lightly over abrasive paper on a flat surface.This puts a tiny flat on each wheel,you can apply a little glue to these flats and it is not visible when fitted.For some reason the carriages look better as they seem fitted rather than hovering on the surface,I can't explain why,it must be one of those tricks on the eye  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As well as a central pin,one trick that works well,that I learnt from Keith Julier's books,is to drag the complete carriage very lightly over abrasive paper on a flat surface.This puts a tiny flat on each wheel,you can apply a little glue to these flats and it is not visible when fitted.For some reason the carriages look better as they seem fitted rather than hovering on the surface,I can't explain why,it must be one of those tricks on the eye  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I hear you, I don't have time to read through logs so much atm but really need to catch up with your Norske love.
 
/Matti

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Sweet! That shape i so Nice, glad to see an update!
 
 
/Matti

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
You are so kind a big thanks  (:-)
 
Michael

I would just like to say thank you for all the 'likes' ,it was nice to come home from work and find I have so many                  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Sjors
Yes you will see the end result   Truth is,I took a new job four months ago.Whilst the job is fantastic,the 80 mile a day commute and 74 hours a week out of the house through work isn't   .The house is going up for sale with a view to relocation closer.This means I have to be prepared to be without the large workshop and may be restricted to a kitchen table or spare room for some time.This is the reason for flitting between builds as I want to get the biggest mess making jobs out the way.I will then have a few years of fitting out,masting and rigging without concerns over space
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Sjors
Yes you will see the end result   Truth is,I took a new job four months ago.Whilst the job is fantastic,the 80 mile a day commute and 74 hours a week out of the house through work isn't   .The house is going up for sale with a view to relocation closer.This means I have to be prepared to be without the large workshop and may be restricted to a kitchen table or spare room for some time.This is the reason for flitting between builds as I want to get the biggest mess making jobs out the way.I will then have a few years of fitting out,masting and rigging without concerns over space
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I would just like to say thank you for all the 'likes' ,it was nice to come home from work and find I have so many                  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Always look for the best Nigel,
 
If you have a spare room in the new house, you are one happy camper !
I know what I'm talking about because I have a spare room     
maybe you can ask Mobbsie for a house close to him ?
Then we can visit you also.....