NMBROOK

Thanks Sjors
Yes you will see the end result   Truth is,I took a new job four months ago.Whilst the job is fantastic,the 80 mile a day commute and 74 hours a week out of the house through work isn't   .The house is going up for sale with a view to relocation closer.This means I have to be prepared to be without the large workshop and may be restricted to a kitchen table or spare room for some time.This is the reason for flitting between builds as I want to get the biggest mess making jobs out the way.I will then have a few years of fitting out,masting and rigging without concerns over space
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
A small update. Finally working on the carriage pulleys and ropes. What I thought would be monotonous has in fact been fun. I worked out, I think, a way of attaching the double pulleys to the weather deck in the same fashion as seen on the Vasa museum carriage reconstruction. I will work with bits of toothpick ends to fashion the  braces. 
 
Kudos to Syrene for Chucks excellent ropes and pulleys (:-)
 
Thanks so much for all of the "likes"as I slowly move forward......
 
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 

Thanks Sjors
Yes you will see the end result   Truth is,I took a new job four months ago.Whilst the job is fantastic,the 80 mile a day commute and 74 hours a week out of the house through work isn't   .The house is going up for sale with a view to relocation closer.This means I have to be prepared to be without the large workshop and may be restricted to a kitchen table or spare room for some time.This is the reason for flitting between builds as I want to get the biggest mess making jobs out the way.I will then have a few years of fitting out,masting and rigging without concerns over space
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
I don't know what to think about it but is looks......strange but very nice ?
Just what Mark is saying....the vision to me also is SF....
But we will see the end result !
 

I have used the wood Gorilla glue with excellent results. Choosing between Gorilla and Titebond is really a very close call.

Thank you Mark   I did mention to Bob((Rafine) that I am seriously considering not including the armament.I really do like the appearance of the museum model and would rather the model was a display of woodwork and carving.I have put further thought in that I may stick to pear and ebony,i.e. produce the carvings in pear.The ebony would portray the black painted areas on the museum model.In addition to the norm,the main deck hatch combings and waterways are black on the museum model,I do like this feature and will represent this on the model.
I do now plan on leaving the remaining decks unplanked,but may include the decks in the main cabins to allow some interior detail,I quite fancy making some 1/60 furniture   .All other interior details will be shown,i.e. capstans,ladders etc.According to Franklin's book,as the anchor hawse holes are higher than the lower deck,the museum model shows raised wooden channel'guides' for these ropes.I will show these,but in the absence of definite material,they will have to be an 'educated guess'.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Andy
If you are using a close clearance insert in the table,I find the depth gauge on the end of a digital vernier handy.Rock the blade back and forth by hand to ensure you are measuring the cutting edge at top dead centre(obviously disconnect power before hand etc etc)
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Mark   I did mention to Bob((Rafine) that I am seriously considering not including the armament.I really do like the appearance of the museum model and would rather the model was a display of woodwork and carving.I have put further thought in that I may stick to pear and ebony,i.e. produce the carvings in pear.The ebony would portray the black painted areas on the museum model.In addition to the norm,the main deck hatch combings and waterways are black on the museum model,I do like this feature and will represent this on the model.
I do now plan on leaving the remaining decks unplanked,but may include the decks in the main cabins to allow some interior detail,I quite fancy making some 1/60 furniture   .All other interior details will be shown,i.e. capstans,ladders etc.According to Franklin's book,as the anchor hawse holes are higher than the lower deck,the museum model shows raised wooden channel'guides' for these ropes.I will show these,but in the absence of definite material,they will have to be an 'educated guess'.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Mark   I did mention to Bob((Rafine) that I am seriously considering not including the armament.I really do like the appearance of the museum model and would rather the model was a display of woodwork and carving.I have put further thought in that I may stick to pear and ebony,i.e. produce the carvings in pear.The ebony would portray the black painted areas on the museum model.In addition to the norm,the main deck hatch combings and waterways are black on the museum model,I do like this feature and will represent this on the model.
I do now plan on leaving the remaining decks unplanked,but may include the decks in the main cabins to allow some interior detail,I quite fancy making some 1/60 furniture   .All other interior details will be shown,i.e. capstans,ladders etc.According to Franklin's book,as the anchor hawse holes are higher than the lower deck,the museum model shows raised wooden channel'guides' for these ropes.I will show these,but in the absence of definite material,they will have to be an 'educated guess'.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Paper does have a grain as part of the manufacturing process. What Nigel suggested is the best way to find the grain.

Hi Andy,I had not noticed this,however I tear strips from the sheet to use and invariably the tissue wants to tear in one direction rather than the other,so you may be correct.This could explain why it doesn't want to wrinkle and goes on nice and flat.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi all I have been trying this method on my current build of Vassa (yes a log will follow soon) and I have found that tissue paper has a sort of bias if you glue ascoss it the tissue paper will wrinkle along the bias or grain it stays nice and flat
Is it just my paper or has anyone else found this ?
 
Andy

I'm not sure what the vision you have for her is, but I like the way it's heading.   Lovely work, Nigel. 

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Buddy All was going fine on two wheels until middle of this week when I got struck down with a stomach bug     On the mend now .Looking forward to watch team Confidis put my bike through it's paces in tomorrow's T de France TT Ok well,not my bike,but the same model  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work on the forecastle is now proceeding. First up was to plank the small bit of inner bulwark with boxwood. After that, I proceeded to do the hances and cap rail. For the hances, I again used the laser cut kit pieces for the carved end and fitted them to the rails which were cut from boxwood sheet, using card stock templates. 
 
As I generally do, the rail assemblies were prepainted black on the edges before mounting to avoid the need for masking. The rail tops were painted in place.  BTW, I am not among the 10 -20 coat painters. For better or worse, I am satisfied with 4-5 coats, particularly with black.
 
After the rails were done, I made the galley stove stack and the forecastle barricade and belfry. The stack was made from styrene tube with wire handles. The barricade and belfry were made from boxwood, with the exception of using the laser cut rail piece from the kit, because it had the square openings for the stanchions cut into it, and I used two shaped stanchions that I had on hand to support the belfry itself. The bell is a brass piece that I had on hand.
 
I'm now moving on to the remaining forecastle work.
 
Bob

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks Rob,Ian Major had posted about this and I have kept an eye out.Unfortunately could only find the preceding issue,but now I know it is out,I am off to the newsagent in the morning
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Keith
 
The Black Pearl is the ship from Pirates of the Caribbean.A few members on here have started a part work kit build on here but have experienced supply issues with the manufacturer.
The Mary Rose part work model under discussion is by a company called Hachette.
Official information on the additional forecastle deck is thin on the ground at the moment,my guess is that full research is being carried out being anything 'official' is being announced.
Unofficial information was released when the deck was discovered (due to additional dredging of a shipping channel in the Solent) and whilst I did not see the news article,my wife did,and explained that it was believed this would alter the appearance of the design as she was believed to have looked.There is a separate thread discussing this forecastle debate.I do believe that if it is confirmed that the design is different from what CCraft based their model on,they would probably revise their kit.However it could be years before anything is stated officially,so a revised kit would be a long way off.The CCraft kit is an exact a replica of the vessel to the original information,but very much like Vasa,new discoveries are made throwing original research into doubt.
The extra deck would indeed make her more true to the images shown in tapestrys of the period.
Here is a link to the partwork model we are discussing http://www.maryrosecollection.co.uk/
One of the news articles I have found discussing the more recent finds http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/hampshire/3552860.stm
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I thought it was about time I blew the dust off this log  
Work has been 'hopping' about a little on the hull.I have been concentrating on sorting the exposed areas of framing.Because of the line of the main deck,various knees,beams and a black ebony waterway would appear in this window between the frames.Although this would be historically correct,I decided it would add a 'ramshackle' appearance to the build and looked for an answer.I decided that an intermediate layer of thin Pear planking from the deck clamp upwards would alleviate the untidy appearance.The basis of this layer has been added on the portside but will be completed when the deck clamp has been installed.On the starboard side are temporary ABS plastic strips tack glued with CA.These guide the fitting of the pear cappings between the open frames.These ensure a nice flow along the top and bottom of the cutout to match the edges of the upper wales.When overlong caps have been fitted and the aliphatic glue has dried,these strips are removed and the cappings sanded flush inside and out.The Aliphatic wood glue does not stick to the plastic.
The three rectangular holes in the hull are to receive the deck beams.There are many more to cut,I have just done these as they were so close to the cappings and also provide a reference point as these three beams delineate the hatchway opening and capstan.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel