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NMBROOK

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  1. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    That deck looks just great Nigel !!!!!!
     
    When i need new wood for my floor at my house I think I give you a call   
     

  2. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Vasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Sergal - scale 1:60   
    Another update - been slowly working on the shrouds & stays.Topmast shrouds & mizzen stays done.I know the rigging is a bit dark but I prefer the look of the dark standing rigging.The running rigging will be much lighter.
     

     

     

     
    /Mark
  3. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Jack Panzeca in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)   
    I finished cutting the easy planking, the tapered pieces at the sides and each end as well as the bent pieces at the mast foot are next.  The planks are just placed loosely and since they were cut and sanded specific to each space I will take them out and bundle them up until I am ready to glue them in place. I jumbled them up once already and it is like putting together a jig saw puzzle to get them back where they belong.
     

     
    But first I thought I should get Von_Kossa's latest challenge out of the way.  The actual Oseberg (photo from Von_Kossa's build log) has an open compartment at each end of the ship that is not accounted for by the kit.  Those spaces get really crowded so I want to do the cutting before I finish framing.
     

     

     
    Von_Kossa said that when he started to do the cutout he felt like he was destroying his model.  When I was doing it I actually did pop the top two planks loose.  Oh well, more room for my hands.  No real harm, they will glue back easily.  Better to find the weakness now than later.
     
    Here are the latest stain tests.  I took all four photos at the same time with the same light and the same camera.   The color temperature was matched so the comparison will be accurate.  The wood is domestic Red Oak.
     

     
    The choice is not easy.  I think I will pin up the board and stare at it a while.  Comments welcome.
  4. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from cog in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    After a little absence,I have something of an update.Aside from very little time,my broadband connection is giving me grief   Either lightning fast or more commonly working at a snails past.I shall contact my provider and give them what for when in the right frame of mind.
    Anyway,half the deck planked,given a scrape and light sand and then a couple of coats of poly to prevent glue marks whilst working on the other side.I have moved away from shellac as firstly,I like the variation of tones and secondly it means I can use my acrylic ageing techniques should I choose.I am ,due to the pleasing appearance,considering NOT treenailing and risk spoiling the effect.
    The other side of the hull is now built and shaped so my next job is to sort the upper gunport frames on this side.
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel







  5. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Photo Content Below .... Oh the Excitement eh!
     
    Hi All,
      Well the Gratings/Hatch's have been faired and sanded to a 'pleasing' shape (ie one that follows the camber of the deck, which is actually a rather complex shape as it differs somewhat as you move aft !) the shape was achieved by placing some sand-paper onto the deck directly over where the Hatch will end up and working the Hatch fore and aft in short strokes along the sand-paper, after a very short time you will sand the particular Deck Camber at that point into the bottom of the Grating/Hatch.  The curved top was a result of simply sanding the Hatch in a rocking motion as opposed to holding it 'flat' to the sand-paper !   Simples !!    (BTW re the 'Top' curve.. you mayl also end up with weird shaped fingernails on the finger & thumb that are holding the rather thin Hatch .. mine ended up flat on one side..    )
     
    All Righty Then It's Photo Time !!
     
    Note the hatch's are not glued in place yet and have not been Matt Varnished, the dark colour is a result of my giving them a gentle wiping with White Spirits.. Oh and the little bits of stick protruding from them are just to remind me which way is forward!
     
    Thanks For Stopping By Folks
     
    Stay Well
     
    Eamonn



  6. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from james c lusk in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Hi Chris
     
    Personally I don't rate balsa,aside from the fact that it is really soft and doesn't offer that much support,the biggest issue is because of the softness it is impossible to get a nice shape to the hull.The balsa always ends up low compared to the bulkheads.Covering with filler defeats the object of added glue area.The builders foam.I haven't tried,I know Brian C uses this technique and Aussie48 has just used it on his model.I can see this working providing there is an opening for the foam to escape,otherwise the expansion will distort the hull.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  7. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Text Based Exciting Update !!
     
    Gratings/Hatch Coamings are assembled, just need to be faired (the nice curve put into the top of them and the deck camber put into the bottom, to allow them to sit flush .. if you follow me)  and glued in place.. Deck Furniture is underway.
     
    I chose not to drill out the Deck Anchor Rope Holes (AKA the Spurling Pipes on more modern ships) as per the kit plans/layout, but instead to have the anchor ropes go down below via the fore most hatch-way (which I adapted for the purpose by having square sections removed from the grating Port & Stbd)
     
    The Deck has been lightly clear matt varnished/sanded a few times and is ready for the afore mentioned bits-'n-bobs.
     
    Photo Update will follow when I get the Hatches faired and in place
     
    Stay Well Folks and thanks for looking in
     
    Eamonn
  8. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from BANYAN in I am Considering a Plastic Build and Need Advice   
    Hi Pat
    Nothing wrong with plastic,but everything wrong with the Arii kit.There is so much wrong with it and the Doyusha version in 1/250,that you really would be better starting from scratch.If you are determined to build a large plastic Yamato,then the Nichimo 1/200 is a much better starting point and gold medal models do a full photoetch package for it.The snag is Nichimo folded a few months ago,so Ebay is your only real option.The kit still needs work as it is an old production,but not a complete redesign like the others.You may get lucky in that one of the Japanese suppliers may still have one,but this kit was only ever produced in batches so availability was limited anyway.You could join me in the hope that Trumpeter decide to produce one in 1/200(although I do have the Nichimo kit as well )
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  9. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Jack Panzeca in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)   
    Ha, you caught me.  I was going to try to avoid doing them.  Oh well, no getting away from them now.  
     
    Here is a look at a rough cut of two of the additional bulkheads.  I had a piece of red oak the correct thickness.  I obviously like oak and have a fair assortment on hand.  I traced the laser cut out left over from the kit bulkheads and I need to adjust the height to account for the fact that if I use the oak I will not need to add the oak strip as was done on the plywood bulkheads.
     
    I will have to study this a little since the strip turns up and the grain continues up as well.  With the new ones the curve cuts across the grain.  The difference in the look is pretty obvious.  I can always cut them out of junk wood and add the strip.
     
     
  10. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Jack Panzeca in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)   
    I have been slow to post lately for two reasons.  First, it is spring and I have been out chasing bugs and flowers.
     

     
    The second reason is that I have been stalling.  I have a lot of oak to cut and since my Admiral was kind enough to order a Byrnes saw for my fathers day "surprise" I have waited rather than struggle with my old saw.  The Byrnes will arrive tomorrow so the updates should increase.
     
    I have finished the added bulkheads and the planking supports attached to the bulkheads.  The next step is a day of steaming and bending of the oak caps for the bulkheads and the deck planks.
     
     
     
    This is a quick stain test using Minwax Gel Stain color Aged Oak.  I have been looking for a stain that would not be as dark as the ship after it was buried for 1000 years (walnut) but not as new looking as, say, golden oak.  I ran into a sample of this aged oak at a local store and decided to give it a try.  I hope that this gets the Vivian seal of approval   .
     
    The plank set on the left has ebony stain on one side to simulate caulking, the center group has nothing and the right group has black Sharpie on one side.  I am not sure that it makes much difference.  The Sharpie was easier to control than the stain.  Pencil did not show up at all.
     
    The piece at the bottom of the picture is the same plywood as used for the hull planks.  It matched better than I expected.
     
     
  11. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Jack Panzeca in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)   
    Hi David B,  the Driftwood is on the way, thanks for the recommendation.  I am sitting around like a kid waiting for Santa Byrnes to arrive.  I plan to spend the entire weekend making saw dust.
     
    Thanks Vivian, I like the Aged Oak very much as well.  David B suggested Minwax Driftwood so I will test that also and put them side by side and you get to judge again.
     
    I am happy that you both liked the images.  It was really fun to get outdoors and play before it gets really hot here.
     
    Here are a couple of close ups of the Atlas Moth posted above.  It is a facinating insect.  They are about 9 inches wide and the wing tips really do look like snake heads.  Incredible evolutionary adaption.
     

  12. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Jack Panzeca in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)   
    Hello Hans Christian,  Thanks for the links.  It is nice to see the reconstruction.  You should consider starting a build log so that we can follow your progress.  Thanks again.
     
    Hi Dee-Dee, thanks for the encouragement.  Santa did arrive!  The Byrnes saw is truly incredible.  If you have any photography questions please let me know.
     
    Hello Vivian, I hope that you are well.  Thanks for looking in.  I am setting up the stain tests on a piece of foam core so that I can keep track of the results.  I love the moth as well.  Mother nature went to all that trouble and they only live a week or so.
     
    Hey David B,  thanks, I have had a lot more practice with photography.
     
    Hi Pete, thanks for looking in.  I have more stain tests to come but I really like the aged oak at this point.
     

     
  13. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Jack Panzeca in Oseberg Viking Ship by Jack P - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1/25 Scale - 9th Century - (Modified)   
    The first thing that I have to say is that Santa showed up at my house (he got his dates confused) and left a new saw.  The Byrne's saw is not a saw.  It is a Work of Art.  I was in the construction business for more than 40 years and around cutting devices for longer than that.  Nothing in my experience prepared me for this saw.  Things that I have struggled with (long rips for starters) are now routine.  My previous saw was an old Micro Mark/Proxxon and there is no comparison.  In case I was not clear I love this saw.
     
    I cut the the caps for the bulkheads, bent them and glued them into place.  The curves are difficult to hold and needed some creative clamping.  The wine corks came in handy and the wine was handy too.
     

     
    I ripped about half the planks and cut them to length in record time they laid in nicely.  Since it is not a good idea to use power tools when you are tired I will leave the rest of the deck planking for another day.   
     

  14. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to ccoyle in I am Considering a Plastic Build and Need Advice   
    Or............
     
    ..........you could come over to the truly dark side and try the Yamato in card.  Halinski publishes one in 1:200 and offers brass barrels and PE details (five sheets).  Digital Navy publishes one in 1:250.
     
    Yeah, I know -- not the advice you were looking for.
  15. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Minor milestone... Half of the 42 full frames have been installed.  Spacers have been glued into place and gunports are rought cut.  Final position with sills will be done after the first pass at fairing before the half frames are installed.   I'm finding minor tolerance build up issues but nothing that's a show stopper.  Anyway, here's piccy's....
     


  16. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Blue Ensign in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed   
    Many of my golfing mates visit Florida for that purpose, I think I would rather visit Bob to look with amazement on his Essex.  
     
    B.E.
  17. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed   
    I've now made and installed the first part of the waist deck framing. As with the quarterdeck and forecastle deck framing, the beams, carlings, ledges and hanging knees are boxwood and the lodging knees are cherry. In addition, this portion of the decking required support stanchions. These were made from square boxwood strip with the round portions done with files and sandpaper. As always, the wood was finished with Wipe-on Poly. I am now working on the remaining waist deck framing.
     
    Bob





  18. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from MartyB in Deck planking - simulation of caulking   
    I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel


  19. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Captain Al in Varnish, polyurathane or ? for deck finish   
    I appreciate your reply Nigel and will probably do a bit more experimenting before settling on a finish.  Thanks for the reminder to abrade -- I always forget that and it does make a big difference.
  20. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptMorgan in Deck planking - simulation of caulking   
    I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel


  21. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Royal Caroline by marsalv - FINISHED - Panart   
    After longer break. a few more images - I finished the production of the yards.







  22. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from archjofo in Sovereign Of The Seas by NMBROOK - Scale 1/84 - based on the works of Van De Velde the elder   
    I have had a lovely long holiday weekend treenailing I have completed both sides under the wales and intend to give this area a few coats of polyurethane for protection.I have also inlaid some small pieces of maple to represent the bowtie piece that joins keel to sternpost.
    Kind Regards Nigel
  23. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Thank you very much indeed Mark for such a nice post         I did find your thread very interesting and the pics were great.
    I think with building models like most things,nothing is black or white or right or wrong.There are many methods to achieve the desired result and I try to demonstrate why I chose one particular technique over another one.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  24. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to MarisStella.hr in Barque Stefano kit development by MarisStella.hr   
    Nigel, right... in the main we use walnut, rarely goes lime, mahogany and oak really rare, only occasional positions ...
  25. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in Name the Ship Game   
    Ok giving the Japanese stuff a miss for now.Here is something a little different and hope it doesn't prove too difficult as won't be online much tomorrow.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel

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