NMBROOK

Nigel,
 
Thank you for your advice. I have installed all of the axles so too late. Your, so simple but too "out of the box" for me, suggestion will stay in the memory bank for next time. And as always so much appreciate your posts and very kind thoughts.
 
Michael

Jeez Bob those Hammer things sound really complicated.. too many moving parts for my liking , think I'll just continue using the Camera Lens..      
 
Sorry Lawrence for the lack of proper updates but I'm in a bit of a Timber quandary again (hopefully will be resolves soon though)
 
Thanks for dropping by folks..
 
Eamonn

Thanks Nigel!  Learned something new tonight

Hammer implementation:
I. Target discrimination:
  Group A: Thumb (not recommended)
  Group B: Not Thumb (recommended)
Everything else is merely refinement of this basic principle.
 
Digital calipers really are fantastic, very useful as a marking gauge with the lock, depth gauge, use with a square or bench block for height gauge, just don't confuse with hammer...
 
On a serious note, The Ballahoo is looking REALLY good.

A little earlier than promised.I thought it would be helpful to others to post a list of contents as I have all four of Keith's books.
 
The Period ship Handbook  ISBN 1-85486-081-X
 
Royal William-Euromodels
Will Everard-Billings
Faroes Yawl FD 10-Billings
Hannah-A.Latina
La Toulonnaise-A.Latina
Berlin-Corel
San Juan Nepomuceno-A Latina
USS Constellation-A Latina
Charles w Morgan-A Latina
Square sterned whaleboat-Panart
New Bedford whaleboat-Amati
 
The Period ship Handbook 2 ISBN 1-85486-132-8
 
Royal yacht Caroline-Panart
La Renommee-Euromodels
Armed Pinnace-Panart
15th cent Portugese Caravel-Artenaval
Sir Winston Churchill-Billings
Lancha Bombardiera 1798-Artenaval
Holly rowing boat-Kish model boats
Le Hussard-A Latina
Yacht Britannia-Mamoli
A frontiersman's canoe-The Frontier trading company of South Africa
 
The Period ship Handbook 3 ISBN 1-85486-200-6
 Bellona-Corel
HMS Unicorn-Corel
Portsmouth-Mamoli
See ewer Elbe-Constructo
San Felipe-Panart
Bounty's jolly boat-A Latina
Hms Victory cross section-Corel
Pride of Baltimore II-Model Shipways
Bounty-Amati
The American whaling brig Viola-scratchbuild
 
The New Period Ship Handbook  ISBN 1-85486-233-2
HMS Victory-Caldercraft
Lady Nelson-Victory models
HMS Mars-Caldercraft
Endeavour J class 1934-Amati
Bounty-Amati
HMS Agamemnon-Caldercraft
English Carronade-Mantua
Endeavour-Caldercraft
HMS Victory launch-Panart
 
 
 
In addition,each book contains a section illustrating building techniques
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

In answer to the scarph joints in the keel you are both correct .On French vessels they were horizontal,on English vessels they run vertically
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A small update - finished the lower shroud ratlines on the starboard side.I like to give them a slight natural looking droop.
 

 

 
/Mark

Cheers guys, I hope so and it's good to have the members here to ask when needed! Trying to read up on how it works and look before starting.
 
 
/Matti

Fabulous work mate   I wish you all the best with the stringy bits,but there is more than enough help on here should you need it Looks like it could be Sovereign of the Seas for the next build,she will give you plenty of sculptures to go at
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Let's see if I got this right... first we make lots of little pieces of wood from big pieces, then we make big pieces of wood from the little pieces so we can cut and shape and make little pieces of wood from those big pieces.   er.. right?          Ok..  I think I got it.    I finished making all the bigger pieces of wood from the small pieces.   All 60 frame blanks are ready to go.  
 
Now to start cutting the frames from them. 
 

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
Sam,
Two layers with the joins offset.  Hahn provides a plan for the blank layout which I think can be seen under the blanks.  I hang onto those also just in case...
 
David,
I was on the path of no return a long time ago... 
 
Augie,
I think I found out why my aeromodeling and flying didn't work.  I never perfected the flat spin.  Mine spiraled in...
 
 
It will probably be a while before the next update (or not).  I'm going to cut out all 60 frames first before trying to mount them in the jig permanently.  I've found that doing "production run" methods on things is keeping me focused and allows for re-making parts easier.  

Thanks Thomas. The cannon barrels are painted with what little I have left of my Pollyscale engine black (no longer available).
 
I've now completed another section of the quarterdeck framing. Before doing that, however, I had to do a chart of rigging sizes so that I could attach the main lower yard sheets to the bulwark cleats that would be inaccessible under the deck framing. The rope sizes were determined by using the tables and formulas set forth in Lees. Rather than using a spreadsheet, I chose to mark the sizes directly on copies of the sequential rigging drawings from the Essex AOTS. I then made a table to convert these sizes to correspond to the rigging line sizes available from Chuck. 
 
I then used the appropriate line size to do the sheets and ran them through the bulwark sheaves and attached them to the cleats. When this was done, I glued down the aft portion of the deck framing, which previously  had been left sitting loose. After that, I built two further deck sections off the model, installed them, added hanging knees to them and then filled in the open portions with lodging knees, ledges and carlings. The whole assembly was given an application of Wipe-on Poly.
 
The final portion of the quarterdeck framing will be done in conjunction with work on the pumps and mainmast bitts, which will be the next items of work.
 
Bob

Having read through your log Bob,I must say seriously impressive work!!No way anyone would think this was your first build without you having stated it.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Having read through your log Bob,I must say seriously impressive work!!No way anyone would think this was your first build without you having stated it.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I received my copy of the DVD today after a short wait for it to come from the USA.In a nutshell and Australian film crew spent 8 weeks filming with Dr Mike in his workshop.Michael Bezverhny is a Russian master modelmaker who at the time this DVD was produced,was the only modeler to ever score a perfect 500/500  in the world shipmodeling championships.He is actually a fully qualified heart surgeon who earns more money building ships to commission.I only actually stumbled on this DVD by per chance when looking at Dr Mike's work on the internet.I do thank Brian C for confirming it was well worth the purchase as he already had a copy.This DVD is by no means a new release,but doesn't appear to have been mentioned here before.
The DVD is just over three hours long and rather than actually following the build of a specific model,Dr Mike demonstrates various techniques used throughout the build process,however is work in progress build 'Rivoli' is used many times to illustrate where the various techniques apply.
Don't expect a Steven Spielberg production as the editing is amateurish and a little disjointed in places,however the is nothing amateurish about the work being demonstrated.On the whole,any builder whatever there level of experience will learn something from this DVD.My only disappointment was that Dr Mike's hot melt adhesive technique for hull plating wasn't shown.
So if you fancy an insight into how IMHO one of the finest,if not the finest model shipbuilders in the world does it,this is well worth a look.
Details can be found at  www.modelshipbuildingsecrets.com
I am in no way affiliated with the production company involved,just a happy customer.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Patrick,Geoff and Matti for your kind words   On to the next,smaller update.I decided to carry on with this side as I still hadn't got my timber.I moved on to the gunports on the next deck.These are different in that many fall in the unplanked,exposed frame area.There is no option but to do them properly.An interesting point is that I am following the information in John Franklin's book as to the gunport sizes taken from the builders model,the main gun deck ones work out at 13mm W x 12mm H,the upper ones are 8mm square!!.I made a simple strip to slot between each side to ensure the cills ran true to the waterline athwartships and cut the rebates out with a burr and scalpel.I also made some simple sanding sticks up to ease the process,notably one wide enough to span between both frames to keep each side level.The excess will be sanded off after the top and bottom cills have been glued in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you everyone for your very kind comments and thank you for all the 'likes'     .'News Flash' re timber order,it is at the sorting office awaiting collection as I was out at the time Postie must be avoiding me Eamonn  
My timber order reflects the small revision I have made to my plans.Originally I was going for all boxwood with ebony and a little pear detailing.After staring at Frolich's book for hours in the research department,i.e. bath   I have come to the conclusion he got it pretty much right.I am retaining boxwood for the decks and below the waterline but using pear instead for above the Ebony 'waist'.This entails another small revision,but it is work I would have to do in part anyway.All the infill will need capping off between the frames on the exposed section.I propose to do this with black marquetry veneer.To use ebony would mean machining right down in thickness and to be honest would probably want to disintegrate at the 0-6mm thickness that I can buy veneer in.I have another cunning plan to ensure this all lines through perfectly That will follow in time,got the ports to finish off and the other side to build to match first
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Having read through your log Bob,I must say seriously impressive work!!No way anyone would think this was your first build without you having stated it.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Cheers mate!
 
 
/Matti

All will be revealed in due course Nils,it maybe a while away yet,I am quite often a few months in front with the planning stage  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Nils Once the ports are complete,I will be building the otherside to match.My thought process is at the deck beam stage.I am thinking of using a technique of Russian master Dimitry Shevelev,in that the deck beams actually run through the hull and would finish flush with the hull surface as it is now.This gives accurate positive positioning and is stronger,but in no way would anything look any different when complete.Obviously the beam ends are covered once the outer planking is fitted.My thoughts are towards building a jig that goes on the miller to possibly machine the radius cuts top and bottom on the deck beams.This would be far more consistent than using the scrollsaw.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Some wonderful pics of your fabulous model mate in the gallery         Great work!I won't post anything other than a like on there,because if you delete old posts when you upload new ones,the comments don't make sense
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you everyone for your very kind comments and thank you for all the 'likes'     .'News Flash' re timber order,it is at the sorting office awaiting collection as I was out at the time Postie must be avoiding me Eamonn  
My timber order reflects the small revision I have made to my plans.Originally I was going for all boxwood with ebony and a little pear detailing.After staring at Frolich's book for hours in the research department,i.e. bath   I have come to the conclusion he got it pretty much right.I am retaining boxwood for the decks and below the waterline but using pear instead for above the Ebony 'waist'.This entails another small revision,but it is work I would have to do in part anyway.All the infill will need capping off between the frames on the exposed section.I propose to do this with black marquetry veneer.To use ebony would mean machining right down in thickness and to be honest would probably want to disintegrate at the 0-6mm thickness that I can buy veneer in.I have another cunning plan to ensure this all lines through perfectly That will follow in time,got the ports to finish off and the other side to build to match first
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Here is an update on the cannons, very laborious, but moving along. The carriage wheels are finally completed and installed.
 
Some notes;
 
As you may have noted from previous posts I used small rings with stems to create the axle braces, cutting the ring parts.
 
I cut and adjusted all 112 individually, then glued them with a tiny bit of Gorilla white wood glue. Once they "set", I then added CA glue at the very bottoms for permanent adhesion. Note the shinny bits at the axle groove tips. The wheels will hide these smears.
 
Each carriage had to be size adjusted for my inconsistent cannon deck port heights. Hmmm. So numbered each one, after adjusting the carriage heights, and slipped their corresponding parts into small zip packs.
 
Next step is to blacken the metal upper frames which are presently still bright brass. I want to use the chemical, but think that painting might be faster because I need to airbrush all of the cannons (including the lower and upper "dummies" black. So I might do this all at once.
 
I haven't used my Paasche in so many years, I was surprised to find my air pump still working (:-)
 
This will be followed by drilling small holes at the bottom center of each carriage to allow for a set nail when attached to the deck.
 
Lastly, the blocks, hooks and ropes will be attached.
 
PS: I think that my axle pins are too far away from the washer Drat !!
 
Michael

Continuing on, I made up a bunch of line bundles for the cannon rigging.

 
Rigging of cannon is finished with bundles.


 
I darkened and mounted the cannon into position