NMBROOK

sounds very interesting Nigel,
 
would like to see how it works out..
 
Nils

Build log part 27
 
 
 
 

starboard side first metal Support bracket for step platform
 

second bracket mounted and brought to alignment
 

platform fit test and weight testing
 

check out guns placed underneath and ladder inbetween (to be shortend accordingly)
Still Need to do the same experience on port side
 

Arrangement of chainpump crank handle and bearing supports
 

view through quarter badge window. Unfortunately the first and the last two links of the Girlande broke off and unfindable got lost somewhere...
 

I first wanted to decorate the cabins with furniture, but I think I`ll leave it as is (less is more)
 
 
Build log part 28 to follow...
 
Nils

Thank you very much indeed Nils Once the ports are complete,I will be building the otherside to match.My thought process is at the deck beam stage.I am thinking of using a technique of Russian master Dimitry Shevelev,in that the deck beams actually run through the hull and would finish flush with the hull surface as it is now.This gives accurate positive positioning and is stronger,but in no way would anything look any different when complete.Obviously the beam ends are covered once the outer planking is fitted.My thoughts are towards building a jig that goes on the miller to possibly machine the radius cuts top and bottom on the deck beams.This would be far more consistent than using the scrollsaw.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

build log part 26
 
 
 

the forecastle underdeck will be next
 

Shows what share is cut away of the poop deck
 

here view into bottom cargo deck with shot locker, lower well area, storage rooms and staircases, and middle deck with upper well area, pantry and staircase.
 

Forward decks with Crew quarters, staircases. Righthand the sailroom on the middle deck
 
 

aft Portion with officers quarters. Masters cabin starboard behind the middle deck stairs, an rum barrel
 

the guns under the poopdeck will Need to be rigged before the deck gets mounted
 

 
 

shall use figures with 26 mm height (26 x 64 = 1664 mm ) considering the average actual sailors height with 165 cm that seems OK
The upper bulwark / Stern angle brackets are only preliminary, they shall be replaced later
 

 

 
 
Build log part 27 to follow...
 
 
Nils

I`m curious for the next sequences Nigel,
 
from keellaying to date , an exciting build..., Setting standards
 
Nils

Thank you everyone for your very kind comments and thank you for all the 'likes'     .'News Flash' re timber order,it is at the sorting office awaiting collection as I was out at the time Postie must be avoiding me Eamonn  
My timber order reflects the small revision I have made to my plans.Originally I was going for all boxwood with ebony and a little pear detailing.After staring at Frolich's book for hours in the research department,i.e. bath   I have come to the conclusion he got it pretty much right.I am retaining boxwood for the decks and below the waterline but using pear instead for above the Ebony 'waist'.This entails another small revision,but it is work I would have to do in part anyway.All the infill will need capping off between the frames on the exposed section.I propose to do this with black marquetry veneer.To use ebony would mean machining right down in thickness and to be honest would probably want to disintegrate at the 0-6mm thickness that I can buy veneer in.I have another cunning plan to ensure this all lines through perfectly That will follow in time,got the ports to finish off and the other side to build to match first
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel, your hull construction takes this aspect to a new level. Beautiful work.
 
Bob

Fantastic work Nigel. Can't wait to see the "new" timber put to work.

Nigel,
 
Your work just keeps getting more and more beautiful as you go along. 
 
Michael

Still waiting for Timber, I wonder wot that feels like ?     
 
At least it is beginning to arrive eh !
 
Am looking forward to your next post of you using the shiny new timber !
 
All The Best Nigel
 
E

Thank you very much indeed Ferret,Matti and Vivian for your very kind words I am actually quite happy I have some definitive gunport sizes to work to Matti It is nice not to have to make an educated guess based on a 350 year old piece of art .I think if I were to build Vasa mate,some standardization would have to be adopted for each deck
A small high today in that the first of my timber orders has arrived,downside is I hadn't ordered any for a few months and had forgotten how expensive this stuff is  
I think it will be a while mate before you see her planked as the 'itch' to get stuck back in on Caroline is starting to appear.I did need a little break from her though as my drive was going a little stale.I would have just spent four times longer doing jobs than I would normally.Not only that I have Chucks lovely rope and blocks staring at me wanting a home  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Michael
 
Apologies for not being around much of late and missing your last update.Excellent work on the swivel guns,they look fabulous   I too would have suggested wire for the axles,at this scale a representation rather than exact replication is more than adequate.Tip for drilling the holes,drill a hole in a small wooden block for the axle to slide in,then drill a hole through the block to act as a guide for drilling the pin holes.This will make it easy to keep them central and stop the drill from wondering due to the curved surface of the axle
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Patrick,Geoff and Matti for your kind words   On to the next,smaller update.I decided to carry on with this side as I still hadn't got my timber.I moved on to the gunports on the next deck.These are different in that many fall in the unplanked,exposed frame area.There is no option but to do them properly.An interesting point is that I am following the information in John Franklin's book as to the gunport sizes taken from the builders model,the main gun deck ones work out at 13mm W x 12mm H,the upper ones are 8mm square!!.I made a simple strip to slot between each side to ensure the cills ran true to the waterline athwartships and cut the rebates out with a burr and scalpel.I also made some simple sanding sticks up to ease the process,notably one wide enough to span between both frames to keep each side level.The excess will be sanded off after the top and bottom cills have been glued in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have completed the basic 'inner' hull structure to the starboard side.As I am waiting for a timber delivery I thought I may as weel sort out the lower gunport linings.After studying Euromodels drawings and also pics of the builders model,it became apparent there were differences not just in the position of gunports but also the height  and shape of the top of the hull sides.Because I want to reflect the design of the NMM model I would have to address these areas.The most notable fact is there is a gunport right forward on the museum model that is missing on Euromodels representation.Looking at the design you would probably only get a musket in there,but it is there nevertheless.Also the stern galleries are very different and you will notice the gunports are close up to this.This basically meant starting from scratch and the bulk of the ports were moved aft slightly.An additional port would then fit in at the beakhead,but also the first and last port on the main gun deck are spaced differently.My revised design reflects this. 
There is a three page article in John Franklin's book covering the builder's model which gives the exact gunport sizes and wale scantlings and spacings.The Euromodel kit design shows upper wales that are too small in comparison.In order to get things to work the top edge of the hull has been increased in height to compensate for this.You will notice the additional pear laminations on the top edge,the bulkheads are too short to run to the top.The lower of the pear strips has been 'dowelled' with 0.7mm copper wire into every pear upright.This has resulted in an incredibly strong hull wall even before planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have completed the basic 'inner' hull structure to the starboard side.As I am waiting for a timber delivery I thought I may as weel sort out the lower gunport linings.After studying Euromodels drawings and also pics of the builders model,it became apparent there were differences not just in the position of gunports but also the height  and shape of the top of the hull sides.Because I want to reflect the design of the NMM model I would have to address these areas.The most notable fact is there is a gunport right forward on the museum model that is missing on Euromodels representation.Looking at the design you would probably only get a musket in there,but it is there nevertheless.Also the stern galleries are very different and you will notice the gunports are close up to this.This basically meant starting from scratch and the bulk of the ports were moved aft slightly.An additional port would then fit in at the beakhead,but also the first and last port on the main gun deck are spaced differently.My revised design reflects this. 
There is a three page article in John Franklin's book covering the builder's model which gives the exact gunport sizes and wale scantlings and spacings.The Euromodel kit design shows upper wales that are too small in comparison.In order to get things to work the top edge of the hull has been increased in height to compensate for this.You will notice the additional pear laminations on the top edge,the bulkheads are too short to run to the top.The lower of the pear strips has been 'dowelled' with 0.7mm copper wire into every pear upright.This has resulted in an incredibly strong hull wall even before planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Ferret,Matti and Vivian for your very kind words I am actually quite happy I have some definitive gunport sizes to work to Matti It is nice not to have to make an educated guess based on a 350 year old piece of art .I think if I were to build Vasa mate,some standardization would have to be adopted for each deck
A small high today in that the first of my timber orders has arrived,downside is I hadn't ordered any for a few months and had forgotten how expensive this stuff is  
I think it will be a while mate before you see her planked as the 'itch' to get stuck back in on Caroline is starting to appear.I did need a little break from her though as my drive was going a little stale.I would have just spent four times longer doing jobs than I would normally.Not only that I have Chucks lovely rope and blocks staring at me wanting a home  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Patrick,Geoff and Matti for your kind words   On to the next,smaller update.I decided to carry on with this side as I still hadn't got my timber.I moved on to the gunports on the next deck.These are different in that many fall in the unplanked,exposed frame area.There is no option but to do them properly.An interesting point is that I am following the information in John Franklin's book as to the gunport sizes taken from the builders model,the main gun deck ones work out at 13mm W x 12mm H,the upper ones are 8mm square!!.I made a simple strip to slot between each side to ensure the cills ran true to the waterline athwartships and cut the rebates out with a burr and scalpel.I also made some simple sanding sticks up to ease the process,notably one wide enough to span between both frames to keep each side level.The excess will be sanded off after the top and bottom cills have been glued in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel
 
Thanks for clearing that one up. Learn something new every day.
 
Nick

In answer to the scarph joints in the keel you are both correct .On French vessels they were horizontal,on English vessels they run vertically
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

For those you who enjoyed the National Maritime Museum's first publication The Sailing Frigate check out the next volume in their series The Ship of the Line: History in Ship Models. Looks like another winner. Pre-order from Amazon.com if you like:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Line-History-Models/dp/1848322143/ref=sr_1_14?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1398638747&sr=1-14&keywords=ship+model

Thank you very much indeed Ferret,Matti and Vivian for your very kind words I am actually quite happy I have some definitive gunport sizes to work to Matti It is nice not to have to make an educated guess based on a 350 year old piece of art .I think if I were to build Vasa mate,some standardization would have to be adopted for each deck
A small high today in that the first of my timber orders has arrived,downside is I hadn't ordered any for a few months and had forgotten how expensive this stuff is  
I think it will be a while mate before you see her planked as the 'itch' to get stuck back in on Caroline is starting to appear.I did need a little break from her though as my drive was going a little stale.I would have just spent four times longer doing jobs than I would normally.Not only that I have Chucks lovely rope and blocks staring at me wanting a home  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Going pretty well. Great hull work!

Nice way to solve the size! Vasas gunports vary so much in size it would drive anyone insane to get them all right...
 
I'm really looking forward to see her planked.
 
 
/Matti

Hi Nigel,
I salute your craftsmanship...

Thank you very much indeed Patrick,Geoff and Matti for your kind words   On to the next,smaller update.I decided to carry on with this side as I still hadn't got my timber.I moved on to the gunports on the next deck.These are different in that many fall in the unplanked,exposed frame area.There is no option but to do them properly.An interesting point is that I am following the information in John Franklin's book as to the gunport sizes taken from the builders model,the main gun deck ones work out at 13mm W x 12mm H,the upper ones are 8mm square!!.I made a simple strip to slot between each side to ensure the cills ran true to the waterline athwartships and cut the rebates out with a burr and scalpel.I also made some simple sanding sticks up to ease the process,notably one wide enough to span between both frames to keep each side level.The excess will be sanded off after the top and bottom cills have been glued in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel