NMBROOK

Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Not a very exciting update today,however my experiment has been a success.I have been debating about caulking techniques and despite using a pencil for longer than I care to mention,it never looks as good as the black paper route.However after watching Dr Mike's dvd explaining that black paper prevents proper glue bond strength,himself using cheap white paper and dying it black,I wanted to find an alternative with a bit less faff Having to visit town today for other reasons  I did stumble upon black tissue paper.I thought this would still allow proper penetration of the glue,but would it be easy to work with?I adopted worse case scenario for the test and cut some planks roughly(not even changing to a fine blade )on the table saw.Smearing one edge of these with alaphatic and placing them on the tissue edge on.Having left to dry for a hour(would really leave overnight in practice) and then cutting the tissue with a new scalpel blade close on the underside and a little above the face side,separated the planks.These were then glued to a sheet of ply.Two hours later this was scraped and sanded back.Again I would leave overnight but I was being deliberately rough for the trial.Anyway complete success.No issue with the tissue paper wanting to drag out of the joints as it was fully impregnated with glue and razor sharp black(not greyish you get with the pencil) lines.The only imperfections are from the rough edges of the planks.In reality these would be smooth .I wanted to crack this dilemma as this technique will be used on the whole build which includes the scarph joints in the keel and the hull planking so strength is important.A couple of pics but the difference between this and pencil isn't truly conveyed with my iphone camera.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Yeah for sure mate, but part of me dreads the rigging and also to find a good showcase, something I need before starting the masts and rigging.
 
 
/Matti

Excellent work mate!!I bet you feel a sense of relief that stage is behind you now
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for the kind comments and likes! Keith, I'm building her as when she was in harbor. I´ve finished the gunports. I'll wait with the messageports until later on. So finally I'm done with the gunports:
 
 

 

 

 
 

Nigel,
 
Thanks again. I will keep this jig, I was going to toss it. You are right i would certainly regret it. As they say,why re-invent the wheel again and again.
 
Michael

This has to be the finest model I have seen in my lifetime.The video is of a UK TV series extreme machines presented by Jeremy Clarkson.It shows a Ferrari 312pb featuring a WORKING exact scale replica of the engine and gearbox.The thing even sounds right!!!
 

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Most people write their shifts on the calendar Eamonn   Sorry couldn't resist mate Hope it all works out ok,but at worst it will only mean recutting the odd piece?
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I would give consideration to adding the railing Matti until much later.Having seen how thin it is,personally I would leave it off for a long as you can.You could make it up on the model while you have plenty of working room to be fitted later on.If it is feasible to install the completed railing after rigging I would do it then,but how easy it would be to feed in with the ropes in place I don't know.One thing is for sure,it would probably the first thing a thread would want to wrap around during the rigging stage.Threads may want to get tangled on your gunport lids but it is a fairly easy job to make something to prevent this,the railing not so.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I had a lazy day today.. no model work !
I have my shift pattern drawn up on a 'deck' paper template I made up to get a feel for things, but first I might need to re address the Margins as I spotted a gap I don't like and I might not have enough overlap for the scarf joins.. tomorrow should tell !
 
All The best
 
Eamonn

I have edited this first post in view of my log relocation.This build did start as a modified version of the Deagostini partwork,but as you read through the log,you will discover virtually nothing remains from the kit.
  To date I have built and planked the hull.So far the only kit parts I have used are the bulkheads.These had to be reprofiled at the stern to give a 'proper' round tuck stern.The planking below the walnut wales is maple and that above is boxwood.The walnut section at the top is to be painted black(I used walnut as it is a third of the cost of boxwood).I have cut the gunports as per the instructions but I am going to 'double line'the gunports on the upper deck to reduce them in size.
 At present before I final size the gunports and add anymore detail,I am replicating the treenailing on the whole hull.After reading about the many different techniques I chose to drill 0.4mm holes then use dark wood filler.The hull was glass smooth and fully sealed before starting,and I found the process fairly simple akin to grouting tiles,although I estimate at between three and four thousand holes to be drilled!I made a simple jig to assist in marking where the frames would be.
Regards Nigel

Dang.. I was foiled by the evil genius of Jim...
 
You aren't by any chance sitting in a black swivel chair stroking a white cat ..    whilst plotting world domination from a hollowed out volcano ?
Jim your Ballier looks the Biz by the way.
 
All the Best
 
Eamonn
 
..or at least Model Ship World domination..  

Rich since you are only cutting short lengths, you can also use a jewelers saw to cut the brass.
 
The particular strip of .25mm brass was originally cut from a standard KS sheet of brass that you can purchase at the hobby shops. I needed some strips that were 3/8th by .010" which is basically the same as .25mm. I cut the bit strips on the table saw some time ago, by sandwiching the sheet between some plywood and using a sled. but that is another kettle of fish.
 
Here is a step by step I just did to show what I mean using the jewelers saw.
 
1 tape the .25mm ( .010") to the edge of a piece of thin wood, leaving the 1mm+ overhanging the edge, this gives the metal a lot of support
 

 
2 using the finest blade you can find and then using a jewelers saw cut along the line holding the saw at an proximately 45 degree angle this makes the teeth seem closer together, (it's the geometry)
 

 
cut with a smooth and gentle motion
 

 

 
The set up of the camera took much longer than the cut which took about 30 - 40 seconds
 

 

 
Anything much thinner than this you can cut with a good pair of scissors, in fact I did cut a small strip off the end of this brass strip with a pair of scissors.
 
Michael

Muah ha ha ha!
 
I arranged for all those visitors to spend time with you so I could catch you up..... and now you've seen through my plan.....

I would give consideration to adding the railing Matti until much later.Having seen how thin it is,personally I would leave it off for a long as you can.You could make it up on the model while you have plenty of working room to be fitted later on.If it is feasible to install the completed railing after rigging I would do it then,but how easy it would be to feed in with the ropes in place I don't know.One thing is for sure,it would probably the first thing a thread would want to wrap around during the rigging stage.Threads may want to get tangled on your gunport lids but it is a fairly easy job to make something to prevent this,the railing not so.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Guys, I'm really glad you like it, thanks! I almost done with the hatches now. She is turning more and more fragile now and soon it's time for addidng the railing and that must be the parts easiest to break.
 
/Matti

I have used a Dremel for many years,but having been diagnosed with HAVS(hand arm vibration syndrome) I have changed to a Proxxon IB/E.The difference is night and day.The smoothness of operation is miles ahead of the dremel which is 'agricultural' in comparison.There is not a vast difference in price but the difference in quality is massive.The added bonus is the speed switch is independant from the on/off switch so comes in handy when doing repetitive tasks.Size and weight are virtually the same,but the Proxxon's design is much more ergonomic and comfortable to hold.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Sjors If you press the blue button it also does the Mayan calender      
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Work continues moving forward with the framing.When it came to sanding back the inside,unfortunately the 'binding' stringer that will be fitted at the top falls below the level of the temporary stringer on the outside.I measured the overall thickness including the outside temporary stringer on the thinned section on the stern using the verniers and used this dimension as my point of reference to sand down and profile the central section.Work now concentrates on completing the obechi infill.I have already started at the bow,this will need increasing in height at the sides as the hull edge flows down in an arc to meet the stem.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Sjors If you press the blue button it also does the Mayan calender      
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel, I love your innovative and imaginative way of building up the hull. The results speak for themselves.
 
Bob

Thank you very much indeed Admiral,Matti and B.E.for your very kind words  
I have to say Matti I love them too!The photos on Euromodel's site in no way convey these,I knew her hull was unusual in form from the pics I have of the builders model,but it in no way fully prepared me for how this is shaping up.Now I have the rest of the infill in place(photos tomorrow when it's dry and sanded up) apart from the crazy transition of shapes below the waterline at the bow,she is very much Dutch in shape.The comparatively low beak,bluff bow and severe tumblehome made me check I was working to the right drawings     Don't ask me why but the shape just reminds me of a catfish  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Sjors If you press the blue button it also does the Mayan calender      
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel