NMBROOK

Fascinating technique Nigel and your explanations make perfect sense. It is shaping up incredibly well. Can't imagine how much sawdust you are creating!

That's a nice production line you have set up Michael That is a LOT of parts but I am sure the result will be more than worth it in the long run.One last suggestion re the drilling jig,label it and put it in the tool box,you will probably find it will come in again I used to throw mine away,but have now learnt to save them,the small ones at least as they take no space up.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This has to be the finest model I have seen in my lifetime.The video is of a UK TV series extreme machines presented by Jeremy Clarkson.It shows a Ferrari 312pb featuring a WORKING exact scale replica of the engine and gearbox.The thing even sounds right!!!
 

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This has to be the finest model I have seen in my lifetime.The video is of a UK TV series extreme machines presented by Jeremy Clarkson.It shows a Ferrari 312pb featuring a WORKING exact scale replica of the engine and gearbox.The thing even sounds right!!!
 

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Still plodding along with carriages putting all of the bits together. It turns out that each assembled cannon will have just shy of 50 parts including the 10 parts that make up the wood carriage itself.
 
So 50 X 14 carriages;  Hmmmm 700 bits, I hope that this obsessiveness "pays off" (:-) I think that it will.
 
Next step is putting all of those brass bits into the blackening caldron then assembling them one at a time.
 
Thought the right angled and lengthy brass bits that attach to the upper and front edges of each carriage will have to be "blackened" carriage by carriage, as the bits are specifically sized to each carriage that have, it turns out, minor variations in size here and there. 
 
My error for the lack of standardized forward thinking. So throwing all 56 of those bits into the caldron would turn into a minor puzzle on the backside.
 
Please note that the method employed for drilling the axle hole stop pins was an absolutely Brilliant suggestion from Nigel, the sage that he is. Worked effortlessly. Once set up, the twenty-eight axles were drilled in less than fifteen minutes. That in-and-of-itself saved me lots of mental wear-and-tear. Thanks my friend.....
 
FYI: the red markings on the axles were so that I knew that I had adjusted the front and rear track widths, and the tips were OK to be drilled, and the longer left-over bits Dremel'd off.
 
Also regarding the Proxxon Milling tool, I did purchase a Proxxon chuck. I have sooo many tiny drill bits so this attachment becomes a one size fits all helper. It will accept the tiniest of bits and keep them super straight during use. Highly recommended part.
 
Again thanks so much for dropping by always so appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael
 
 

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Chris
 
I think not only does it increase the glue area but also the rigidity.When I used to build on open bulkheads all the time,using kit 1.5mm first planking and the 1mm second,I used to find the hull flexed when sanding.You only have 2.5mm of material,take away the amount removed from sanding and in my opinion you are left with a very thin hull.As I mentioned earlier in the log,if the model gets exposed to increased humidity for any length of time then dries out again,this can result in the bulkheads 'ghosting through' in the finished profile.As I build models to outlive me many times over and if sold on have no control of the environment they reside in,I like to adopt a little extra 'insurance'.It is more work,but time is saved by not having to remove much material when sanding planking.Sovereign was double planked over a birch ply infilled hull,The two layers of planking over the top only needed the minimum amount of work to sand smooth.IMHO it is well worth the extra effort unless of course you are building a POF or model with many bulkheads where the planking is adequately supported.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work Nils!There is a real myriad of detail for the eyes to feast on   The figurehead casting is of amazing quality,definitely worth the extra work outsourcing it as resin wouldn't have cut it with chosen colour scheme.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Nils There is a concave aspect to the bow that has more in common with a PT boat than a 17th century warship!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

stunning midget blocks...
 
after learning from Chucks Kind advice that the rope and the blocks I had intended to use were far too large, I followed his advice to use maximal 3mm Long blocks and 0,3mm diam rope for gun Tackling in scale 1/64.
 
I then changed my simple Trial mock up for the gun Tackling using 4mm blocks on the right side (also too large) and the recommended 3mm ones on the left side and am very pleased with the optic result of the 3mm blocks. Also the Problems with the too Long length of the tackle versa the given space between bulwark and carriage eyelet is no longer existing. The breech rope diam. also Looks good. Thanks for your good advice Chuck.
 
It is incredible in what precision and quality These mini blocks are fabricated to, never seen such before !
 
Nils
 
 

from left to right... 4mm, 3mm, 2,5mm 2mm blocklength
 

left Hand 3mm block tackle is OK for scale 1/64, right side (too large 4mm tackle)

Today a surprise..
 
with only 5 days for postage US to Germany ! I received sample blocks from Chucks shop today. They really look fantastic, are of super precision and Quality, so I started straight away to do a typical sample Gun Tackling by using the 4mm blocks
1 x 2 sheave and 1 x 1 sheave
I Chose the natural hemp Color rope 0,5mm diam from 100% Polyester and had to increase the sheave hole borings in the blocks to 0,8 mm. I am happy with the result regarding to the realistic look.
When the rigging starts, I find it is a must to us These fine looking blocks
 
Nils
 

 

Status update....
 
drilled the 6 bulwark holes for the oars using a copied template from my plan on starboard side, am filing These square now
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 23
 
 
 
I would so much like to carry on with the bow area, but realize that there is a lot to still be done underneath the forecastle deck first. Think I will have do the stove and other Details in near future
 
 

the portside guns will be rigged Standing on the Support rails under the carriage wheels
 

all te svivel gunposts are only in "raw" condition, may want to get them 8-sided in upper portions
 

Status overview
 

just Setting the new guns in place for Dimension checking
 
 

I tryed to get the rudder coppering only, shiny again, used Lemon concentrate Juice, it works very easy
but I don`t know if I should have done that. I love the greenish Patina look like some others have tryed already
 
 
 
Nils

Doing the guns in repeatable mode saves some time, once the method is on track...
My work desk is quite a mess, since I have my own room and do`nt have to clean up during the day, and I still have 4 more to do.
 
Am thinking of adding small wooden splints to the axis close to the wheels, but shall do that as last Action
 
Nils
 
 

Trial #1, small wire Pins secure wheels on axis
 

Trial #2, small wooden splints hold back the wheels (I prefer this Version)
 

Gun builders desk
 

have 10 done so far, 4 more to go..

Nigel,
 
a very smart way of getting These difficult spheric Areas shaped and at the same time giving adequate strength to the hull.
Well done !
 
Nils

Hi Nils
 
The infill is my own addition.The kit is open bulkheads and double planking.I am using single planking of scale thicknesses due to the exposed framing on the upper hull.The planking will be spliced at the waterline,Ebony above and boxwood below.The bulkheads would not provide the necessary support for this procedure with single planking .I would have probably infilled anyway as it is my own preference but also there a many complex curves to this hull and to ensure everything is faired properly this is easier in the long run.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello Nigel,
 
I have followed the way you do the lower hull is filled with blocks of Wood between the Frames. Is that own Interpretation or does the kit actually ask you to do it this way. It is an interesting Approach I did not see in this way before and it Looks very good. It probably reduces the planking in that area to a single layer.
 
Nils

Thanks mate yes soldier course it is You enjoy your weekend buddy,I am planning on spending all of it in the workshop,gave up being sat in a traffic jam on Bank Holidays many years ago    
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That shape is really visible now Bud.. she looks almost as though you are building a wall, with the various blocks on top of one and other
 
Have a great Week End ok
 
Eamonn

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel