NMBROOK

Dear Michael,

Thank you very much for your kind words, I appreciate them a lot. And also thanks for possibility to learn new English words; I would like to improve my language skills. I feel good when I am able to understand foreign language.

In our country we say - how many languages ​​you know, so many times you are a human.
 
All cannons are ready to place on deck, now I am working on the tackle.







 


 





 
Enjoy the pics.
 
Kind regards
Doris

Hi J.Pett
Looking at your drawing,an easier solution in this case,would be to cut the notch out before planking and glue some scrap ply to the right hand side of the notched bulkhead.When set this could be sanded to the hull profile and provide support for the planks.
Kind Regards Nigel

You are truly a master of your field Doris!!Those cannons are outstanding  
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
P.S.I have sorted my bowsprit problem,although it has meant a ton of work

This is just a post on Alex's behalf.Having chatted to Alex on facebook this morning,we feel that his last post could have been misinterpreted mainly down to the translator.He is pleased to inform me that Dr Mike is very much alive and well.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Been there,done that Eamonn     Glad you realised in time though
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Not at the same time Bob!modeling is not recommended whilst under the influence  
Kind Regards Nigel

Tip For Today:  Don't leave 1st layer planking material lying around the Shipyard when doing 2nd layer planking with different yet visually quiet similar wood!!  I think you can guess the rest..   (luckily I caught it before going beyond 1 single plank!) PHEW.. 
 
Especially after me waiting so long for the right timber..
 
To quote Kryten from Red Dwarf.  'Engage Embarrassment Mode.. Embarrassment Mode Engaged..      '
 
Sail 'er Easy Folks,
 
Eamonn

Hi Soren
Much depends on what scale you are working to.The neatest way is to glue thin black paper to one edge and end of each plank,however obviously depending on the paper thickness,it can look too much on the smaller scales.For the smaller scales,pencil,or mixing a little black ink with the glue can be used.The result from the ink method is dependent on the absorbency of the timber so experimentation is advised.A permanent marker can be used but again do a trial run to check it doesn't bleed too much into the wood.I think in all cases making a little 'dummy' section of deck with the same timber as the model is the best way.You can make a sample of each and see what you prefer.Apply what ever finish you will be using,I use the pencil method and after sanding you can't see it,however after applying the poly I use,the appearance changes dramatically.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I have to agree with Mark on this one Bob,if there was ever a time to sit back,chill and admire your handywork with your favourite tipple,this is it
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Wow. Thanks to all for the very generous comments and the "likes". They are so appreciated.
 
Mark and Nigel: Time to tip one back (always), but not to stop working, Even a retired guy has to have a day job.
 
Bob

You are truly a master of your field Doris!!Those cannons are outstanding  
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
P.S.I have sorted my bowsprit problem,although it has meant a ton of work

I have to agree with Mark on this one Bob,if there was ever a time to sit back,chill and admire your handywork with your favourite tipple,this is it
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Nigel,
 
Well I'm so thrilled that you saw something in my approach. The synapses were responding to absolute frustration with my inability to actually make these silly little monsters; cannibalization seemed to be an approach. To think that for this moment in time the roles were reversed---thank you (:-)
 
Michael

I used birch veneer for my deck planking. I brushed it with Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner and then one light coat of honey maple stain. I found it relatively easy to work with.
 

Bob,
 
Phenomenal!!  As for what to do next, may I suggest admire your work before pressing on?  That is one sweet ship.

The starboard gallery is now done. While not exactly the same as the port side, I think it's pretty close. Prior to attaching the port side pieces, I had used them as templates to lay out the corresponding starboard pieces. Because of the almost inevitable small differences in hull shape etc., the parts still required fitting, but all went relatively smoothly. Even the lower finishing, which was still the trickiest part, was a lot easier the second time around.
 
I'm still debating with myself over what to do next.
 
Bob

Thanks Vivian, Nigel, Jan and Jazz, your comments are most appreciated!
 
I agree about the dark color and I'm happy Vasa had black carriages.
 
I've mounted 10 of them now, 6 more to go.
/Matti

The cannons look great in place mate!!I think the rigging at 1/10 looks congested so at 1/75 I think it would be too much.It is made worse when the recoil arresting rope goes through the carriage,rather than to the breech(which is why I didn't call it a breaching rope )
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Build Update:
 
Just completed the Fore and Main Lower yards and attached to their respective mast  Used brass pin to attach yards to mast for ease of assembly.  After attached ran lashing for the tyes.  Upper end lashed to yard, lower end open for now and weighted down with a clip.  Deviated from plans and used triple blocks for the upper blocks (these blocks are served  and doubled (this did have me loosing a view more hairs and working on my vocabulary).  Quarter blocks and sheet/lift blocks are also served.  Used common blocks for the clew garnet blocks (didn't attempt to make myself) plus information indicates these blocks were changed to common after 1780. Most of the line shown on these yards is DMC Cordonnet cotton wht/ecru dyed using RIT dark brown (prior builds used stain but now will use dye).  Footropes ends and falls are fake splice like I did on the gun port lids.  When finished applied Vallejo Matt Medium to add some stiffness and holding power ( still need to do some forming down the road). All blocks shown are from Chucks Syren site, except for the sister blocks (but should be fiddle blocks).  Line on the Yard and Brace Pendants is also purchased material from Chuck as is the Tye lashings and Yard Trusses.  The thimble at the center of the yard is a Deadeye with the center routed out (called out thimble looked to small to me).  This will be attached to another thimble on the sling by lashing. I made these up, but not shown here until needed once I attach the next section of masts. I also deviated from the model plans when doing the yard trusses.  Assembled as shown in rigging book with the exception of no nave line assembly (my choice, my build).
 
This is the first build where I have attached yards off the model for what I hope is easier.  I don't think this will pose a problem once I assemble the shrouds.  We'll see.
 
Next to work on blocks and such and attaching the Mizzen Crossjack before glueing down all masts and adding shrouds.  
 
If your reading this, thanks for looking in and happy modeling,
Len

Hi Eamonn
The clamps are simple,only thing that stopped me mass producing a load,was the inability to find suitable screws.The threads on the clamps are very small in diameter,but very coarse in pitch.This stops them from simply tearing the wood.Dr Mike in his dvd we spoke of early,edge bent his planks by placing them flat on a surface and placing a hot domestic iron on them,he then applied pressure on the plank using his hands in the direction of the bend.I haven't had occasion to try this myself yet,but it obviously worked.If you have some of the plank nipper type plank benders you can use these to do the same thing.If you work the plank nipper along one edge of the plank,but only go halfway across,it shrinks the nipped side inducing a sideways bend.Be careful not to go to deep and space your 'nips' out evenly.The more 'nips' the bigger the curve.The plank will curl in the other direction,but this flattens out when you glue it to the hull.
Kind Regards Nigel

Absolutely unbelievable work Remco!!!!!! You may be pleased to learn that pictures of your cupboard have gone almost viral on the facebook modeling community
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks for the nice compliments.
 
 
 
Sure, if I can hire you to do the drafting of the furniture, as I love your drawings. So just send your idea's and we'll make it a joint effort.
 
The upper half of the cupboard as two features, one shelf for pots and one to hold plates, I got the idea of some pictures I found of galleys.
 

 
 
 
Remco

Eamonn,
 
I'm not sure the way this log is going! However, any chance of a free 'Clamps, Pegs and Pins', issue No 1,  by way of a trial offer? You mentioned a fetish ...
 
Good call on your bulwark planking. I think it looks better to fit the planking around the gunports, rather than planking across and cutting them out afterwards. Btw, it looks as though you might shortened the legs of your stand, the forward one more than the after, am I right? Hmm, I've seen that before somewhere...
 
Good tips, Nigel.

Good to see it is all go in the Arklow shipyard buddy There are many ways to get more clamping force on the planks,but once you get past the bulwarks,there are some clamps that may come in handy.Just google Miskin models and you should see some planking clamps shown.These are like a small screw with a plastic handle and they have an ear on them to hold the plank.They do provide more grip than map pins and the screw goes into the first planking adjacent to the plank you are fitting.One thing a sometimes do if the plank refuses to lie hard against is neighbour,is to glue a little block of scrap wood to the first planking with Cyano,then cut a tiny lime wedge to force it over.when the glue is dry,just cut the little block off.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi All, Had to do a little reconstructive surgery earlier today, not too much just that I was unhappy with the fit of some planks against those above them, particularly around the gun-port areas so I popped them off (I originally laid the strake full plank length across the ports, but when I examined them after removal of the Clothes Pegs and Clamps I saw slight gaps, so I rough cut the planks to expose the ports and in so doing made them shorter thus allowing them to sit better)
 
Still no photos as I don't think anyone will wish to see a bunch of Clamps & Pegs, unless of course someone has a 'Clamp & Peg' fetish! that case just sing out and I'll take a few pikkies for you.. I won't judge.. honestly (you are after all talking to a 'Plank Taster' remember)    
 
It's all go over here on Ballahoo eh!
 
More exciting updates later..
 
Eamonn
 
Ok Ok you talked me into it here's some Gratuitous Clamp & Peg And Pin Shot's..
 
The layer visible with the Pins in, is just there to compress the 2nd layer against the top one!