NMBROOK

Just a quick update to let ye all know that 2nd planking is continuing slowly, 3 strakes complete on stbd side and 2 on port.  All ye Clamp, Peg & Pin fans would think all your Christmas's had come at once... there are that many of the things sticking out from the Ballier 
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn

Excellent work Mate,she looks fabulous!!
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks Bug and B.E.!
 
Here is how the cannons look in place:
 






 
 
/Matti

I'm just waiting for one of the figurines to come to life; they certainly look real enough!
cheers
 
Pat

Well, its been a little longer than I had I thought.  I got into a bit of a funk with a couple of aspects of the rigging and felt myself forcing things - so decided to take a bit of a break.  I think I got lucky with my first mouse, replicating it proved to be rather challenging but decided to make them all in one go so they are as consistent as can be (why don't any manufacturers make mice?).  
 
Not much to report, but I am back in the shipyard at least...I do still want to try and capture each step in order for future reference, so apologize if this is less than thrilling.
 
Maintop with main and preventer stays in place...

 
Main and preventer stays attached to their respective hearts.  Did not serve around the stays where they rub against the fore-mast as would have been done.  I didn't  use the supplied 1.25mm line as supplied as it seemed a little too thick and out of scal, instead going with some 'officially' 1.3mm Caldercraft line which in reality was slightly thinner than the supplied 1.25mm stuff.  This proved to be a 'fuzzy'  nightmare but once in place I brushed with dilute PVA and they seem to have been banished.
 
The lashing of the hearts was done with  fake splice to the lower heart (although believe this maybe should have been to the upper heart) and then seizing the other end to the lashing.  The hearts have circular holes, I'd recommend flattening off the lower side so the lashing sits better, as it is, I found this quite tricky to look right.
 

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for all of your very kind and supportive postings, like clicks, and also for just dropping by, all much appreciated.
 
Just finishing up the mizzenmast channels as well their corresponding chainplates and deadeyes. For these small and claustrophobically located deadeyes, I decided to pre-rig them. I did not trust my skills by waiting to thread the ropes. I will adjust the ropes once the shrouds are attached to the mast.   They look as though they have not been threaded correctly, but they are ok, I just need to rotate the deadeyes back and forth a bit.
 
I know that the channel has been mounted too low, but that has been relegated to hindsight, because stern decorative pieces would not have positioned properly (too many gaps) had I lowered the upper galleries due to my miss-calculations during stern assembly. My fault -  Grrrrr.
 
The last two pics. show the beginnings of the next bit; the two blocks that are mounted on those channels. I'm using balsa to create the proper shape, and angles (still a work-in-progress), and then I will cut two out of other wood.
 
The milling machine will get flipped on, hmmm - lets see if I can drill and groove out a proper space for the needed pulleys? On the plus-side pulleys are just already waiting in the wings for just a bit of weight loss on their sides ha ha....
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Hello Albert and thank you very much for your compliment, I am pleased.
 
Yesterday I completed remaining cannons. The ropes have a strong impregnation - I use for this a glue (thinned by water). This will allow to change the shape of ropes (after gentle re-soaking) and after drying the shape is already fixed.
 







 
I am going to create other crew members who will perform some action with a cannon....
 
Best regards
Doris

So I went into the making ropes and after about a week of intensive work (exactly 27 hours of actual time) I have done. There will be a total of 9 different rope  thicknesses in the model (7 are ropes + 2 basic yarns from which the ropes are made). I made about 220 ropes of different thicknesses.

Dear Michael,

Thank you very much for your kind words, I appreciate them a lot. And also thanks for possibility to learn new English words; I would like to improve my language skills. I feel good when I am able to understand foreign language.

In our country we say - how many languages ​​you know, so many times you are a human.
 
All cannons are ready to place on deck, now I am working on the tackle.







 


 





 
Enjoy the pics.
 
Kind regards
Doris

Hi J.Pett
Looking at your drawing,an easier solution in this case,would be to cut the notch out before planking and glue some scrap ply to the right hand side of the notched bulkhead.When set this could be sanded to the hull profile and provide support for the planks.
Kind Regards Nigel

You are truly a master of your field Doris!!Those cannons are outstanding  
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
P.S.I have sorted my bowsprit problem,although it has meant a ton of work

This is just a post on Alex's behalf.Having chatted to Alex on facebook this morning,we feel that his last post could have been misinterpreted mainly down to the translator.He is pleased to inform me that Dr Mike is very much alive and well.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Been there,done that Eamonn     Glad you realised in time though
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Not at the same time Bob!modeling is not recommended whilst under the influence  
Kind Regards Nigel

Tip For Today:  Don't leave 1st layer planking material lying around the Shipyard when doing 2nd layer planking with different yet visually quiet similar wood!!  I think you can guess the rest..   (luckily I caught it before going beyond 1 single plank!) PHEW.. 
 
Especially after me waiting so long for the right timber..
 
To quote Kryten from Red Dwarf.  'Engage Embarrassment Mode.. Embarrassment Mode Engaged..      '
 
Sail 'er Easy Folks,
 
Eamonn

Hi Soren
Much depends on what scale you are working to.The neatest way is to glue thin black paper to one edge and end of each plank,however obviously depending on the paper thickness,it can look too much on the smaller scales.For the smaller scales,pencil,or mixing a little black ink with the glue can be used.The result from the ink method is dependent on the absorbency of the timber so experimentation is advised.A permanent marker can be used but again do a trial run to check it doesn't bleed too much into the wood.I think in all cases making a little 'dummy' section of deck with the same timber as the model is the best way.You can make a sample of each and see what you prefer.Apply what ever finish you will be using,I use the pencil method and after sanding you can't see it,however after applying the poly I use,the appearance changes dramatically.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I have to agree with Mark on this one Bob,if there was ever a time to sit back,chill and admire your handywork with your favourite tipple,this is it
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Wow. Thanks to all for the very generous comments and the "likes". They are so appreciated.
 
Mark and Nigel: Time to tip one back (always), but not to stop working, Even a retired guy has to have a day job.
 
Bob

You are truly a master of your field Doris!!Those cannons are outstanding  
 
Kind Regards Nigel
 
P.S.I have sorted my bowsprit problem,although it has meant a ton of work

I have to agree with Mark on this one Bob,if there was ever a time to sit back,chill and admire your handywork with your favourite tipple,this is it
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Nigel,
 
Well I'm so thrilled that you saw something in my approach. The synapses were responding to absolute frustration with my inability to actually make these silly little monsters; cannibalization seemed to be an approach. To think that for this moment in time the roles were reversed---thank you (:-)
 
Michael

I used birch veneer for my deck planking. I brushed it with Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner and then one light coat of honey maple stain. I found it relatively easy to work with.
 

Bob,
 
Phenomenal!!  As for what to do next, may I suggest admire your work before pressing on?  That is one sweet ship.

The starboard gallery is now done. While not exactly the same as the port side, I think it's pretty close. Prior to attaching the port side pieces, I had used them as templates to lay out the corresponding starboard pieces. Because of the almost inevitable small differences in hull shape etc., the parts still required fitting, but all went relatively smoothly. Even the lower finishing, which was still the trickiest part, was a lot easier the second time around.
 
I'm still debating with myself over what to do next.
 
Bob

Thanks Vivian, Nigel, Jan and Jazz, your comments are most appreciated!
 
I agree about the dark color and I'm happy Vasa had black carriages.
 
I've mounted 10 of them now, 6 more to go.
/Matti