NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to Q A's Revenge in What happened to Ramin?
25-30 years ago DIY stores here in the UK sold nothing but Ramin dowels unless you wanted a broom handle. Last week I happened to check out the wood stock in my local DIY store and all the dowel is made from Pine. So what happened to Ramin dowel, is it a "fashion" thing or something else? Don't need any, just asking ... :-)
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NMBROOK got a reaction from moflea in If you were allowed only one power tool - what would it be?
Hi Chris,for me it would have to be the Dremel or equivalent,mines on it's last legs,so bought a proxxon to give that a go.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Nigel, I have not decided at this point. I would need to actually purchase four and cut them by 2/3 thirds. Four may be "over-kill" But Ferit's point is well taken that all guns should be mounted.
Michael D
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NMBROOK reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
good evening, all the big turrets are completed, apart from PE, never managed much today, but never mind the SUN came out - better still - it never wained
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Hi Eamonn
All looking shipshape and bristol fashion!
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
All of the bulkheads are fixed in place and squared to each other and the false keel. Placing the lower deck comes next. The deck is precut into two halfs cut along the length. Each half has to be cut again into two pieces across the slots for bulkhead "1" There is no way to get the deck threaded into the bulkheads and down to the lower most supports without cutting it. Each quarter is then treaded through the upper bulkhead slot in the bow and slanted down until it gets to the bottom support at the stern. It is necessary to adjust the little slots to fit the bulkheads, but not much. Squaring the bulkheads made the difference here. Once both rear halfs are threaded into place, each half is secured to the forward bulkhead using wedges to hold them down to the curved deck supports while the glue dries. Both halfs are done together, one bulkhead at a time towards the stern, in order to keep the halfs butted together.
Vince P.
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NMBROOK reacted to AlexBaranov in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36
I made a deck of wood alpine pears. I process wax and water solutions. Nails of brass.
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NMBROOK reacted to AlexBaranov in HMS Cumberland 1774 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - 1:36
Another deck is prepared
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Hi Eamonn
Personally I would wait until final fairing to see how things work out.If you are filling the first two sections then the deck will be supported and joined to the hull.When you start trying a plank for the run around the bulkheads you may find that you get a more flowing curve sanding the bulkheads back to conform to the deck shape.You may find if they are left the hull has a 'bleb' in that area when you try a strip around the bulkheads.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Hi Bob
For future reference,I pinched an idea from Dafi on his Victory build.If you drill a hole in the end of a BBQ skewer and glue the drill bit into this.You can feed this through the gunport on the opposite side to the bulwark you are drilling.I have found it much kinder to drillbits and miles easier than using a pin vise in the restricted space.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
After some minor cursing and a small change of method, I've completed the first side of the copper. The change was to go, as much as possible, to one continuous strip of copper tape for each row, rather than piecing two or three pieces together. This took a little more care to avoid twisting the strips, but ended up taking less time and looking neater.
While I'm generally pleased with the look of this side, I have no doubt that the refinement of method, and the practice that I've had, will make the second side easier and better. I will take a day or two off from the copper, however, because I am a little bleary-eyed from looking at it for a week. Now that my Brass Black has arrived, I think that I'll do some eyebolts and ringbolts for a bit.
Bob
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Are you thinking of going for sails Matti?I remember when I made the Mary Ann with my father many years ago,we made them with the Billing's cloth and coloured them by soaking in very weak tea.This worked really well
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Hi Bob
For future reference,I pinched an idea from Dafi on his Victory build.If you drill a hole in the end of a BBQ skewer and glue the drill bit into this.You can feed this through the gunport on the opposite side to the bulwark you are drilling.I have found it much kinder to drillbits and miles easier than using a pin vise in the restricted space.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
Hi Kevin
Looking good and a nice tidy work area compared to mine,I have been putting it off since Christmas I had a look at the movie,that is one spectacular model.I have 14 motors in my DSV up to now and I thought that was a lot He must be controlling the model through a laptop because my Futaba F14 is nearly fully expanded and it wouldn't come close to controlling half that
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
I am with Mobbsie on this one Matti,the first picture is mind boggling!!Simply perfection.I will be interested when you get to to that stage,what techniques you employ to make the rigging look like rope.I would think of buying Chuck's rope or possibly a ropewalk.This model is simply beyond normal thread!Totally outstanding work mate!
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to qaz_666 in Montanes by ricardo - OcCre
More pics...
I added a second boat on the deck and also you can see the sails of the bowsprit: spritsail course and topsail, outer and inner jib, and fore topmast staysail. Enjoy,
Ricardo.
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NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Brilliant stuff Nigel, Thanks bud
Eamonn
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Yeah you won't have any problems with the stern Eamonn.It is just the bow.Setting the bow rabbet line to drawings is great when it is a single planked plank on frame build,but it doesn't always work like that with double planking,you don't know about manufacturers allowance for the planking plus how much you sand is a variable,so this is a safe way to ensure it works out.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Kevin in Bismarck by Kevin - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 - PLASTIC
the armament is now being built - the barrels are supplied in the extra's kit so they replace the plastic kit ones on the smaaler rurrents this means cutting of at the breach and drilling to allow the replacement to be installed
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NMBROOK got a reaction from canoe21 in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
My pleasure Eamonn I will follow along mate Only other thing I can think of is if you leave your walnut keel off until after first planking it makes sanding a whole lot easier.You can then tape the bow piece in place and scribe the keel rabbet using a piece of outer planking.It is easier to cut the rabbet to follow where the planking will sit rather than make the planking fit the rabbet if you see what I mean.Because of the angle the planking strikes the keel at the bow it can be easy to have a gap if you do the rabbet before hand.I hope this makes sense
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to pirozzi in Royal William by pirozzi - FINISHED - Euromodels - 1/70
The bulkheads on this ship are so wide and tall and they initially are only held in place where they join the false keel. It is impossible to keep them perfectly square in the 3 dimenesional planes because they warp under there own weight. The Euro interpretive notes suggest placing pieces of wood in between each bulkhead on both sides. This is a great idea, and using a square and digital caliper you can micro cut the wood pieces to make the bulkheads square in all directions. It also make the whole structure very rigid and strong. This all is extremely important when it comes time to lay the decks and plank the hull.
Also, there are 2 slots cut in the false keel between the bulkheads which serve as a platform to step the fore and main masts. By adding a piece of wood on each side of the slot, it makes a perfectly square and upright space to set the masts. They will sit perfectly vertical from port to starboard and still allow canting them front to back if needed. This also came from the Euro notes. All of the extra wood pieces were made from scrap from the plywood bulkhead sheets.
Vince P.
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NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Makes perfect sense Nigel, in fact I am at that point right now, I had marked in the Rabbet and was looking at where the Bulkheads lower parts sit in relation to where said Rabbet should go (along the join of the false keel former and the actual keel piece) compared to where it actually fits! (Parts of the Rabbet seem like it should be a few mill higher, particularly at the first 3 B/Heads near the bow)
I'll follow your advice in this and leave off the Keel Pieces until later, then carve the Rabbet based on the result!
I think I'm ok at the stern re Bearding Line and Rabbet there as it needed to be thinned regardless, the bow was the thing that made me stop and think (then up popped your advice .. result!)
Eamonn
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NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
My pleasure Eamonn I will follow along mate Only other thing I can think of is if you leave your walnut keel off until after first planking it makes sanding a whole lot easier.You can then tape the bow piece in place and scribe the keel rabbet using a piece of outer planking.It is easier to cut the rabbet to follow where the planking will sit rather than make the planking fit the rabbet if you see what I mean.Because of the angle the planking strikes the keel at the bow it can be easy to have a gap if you do the rabbet before hand.I hope this makes sense
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tkay11 in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
My pleasure Eamonn I will follow along mate Only other thing I can think of is if you leave your walnut keel off until after first planking it makes sanding a whole lot easier.You can then tape the bow piece in place and scribe the keel rabbet using a piece of outer planking.It is easier to cut the rabbet to follow where the planking will sit rather than make the planking fit the rabbet if you see what I mean.Because of the angle the planking strikes the keel at the bow it can be easy to have a gap if you do the rabbet before hand.I hope this makes sense
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from tkay11 in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Hi Eamonn
I agree with Tony,filler blocks make the job a lot easier,I still use them as I see no point in struggling.I have stopped using balsa though.Even if you just use DIY store softwood,it gives you the opportunity to pin between the bulkhead positions.Looking at your hull,I would be tempted to fill the first two bulkheads.This would give plenty of fixing area where the planks join the front edge.
Kind Regards Nigel
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