bdgiantman2

Atta boy!! Nice job making those hawse timbers for the bow, and your fashion pieces in the stern look great too. I am enjoying this blog

I'm seeing a ship!! She looks great, keep up this project

Stores like JoAnn's and Michael's sale dollhouse accessories, some in 1:48 scale. I have seen online ability to purchase kettles that scale.

Your Portland model is coming along great, Joe. I'm impressed with the frames and hawse timbers. She's going to be very sturdy indeed. It seems to me looking at your support jigs that all three conveniently are about where the masts would be on this beast.  Going to need to try this CAD program you are using even though I don't plan to do any woodburning.
 
Brian D

The jigs and alignment designs are really clever, and we all gotta love those large rubber bands.  Your nice work continues, well, nicely.  Not just the build but the designing aspect, a talent that is well beyond me but one I admire. 

Your models are fantastic, Ben!! And safe moving. I find it interesting that even though both of your ship models are British 5th rates, that the Winnie is that much bigger than Pegasus. Or was Pegasus actually a 6th rate?

My Winnie is FINISHED!!!
 
I would update the blog title to reflect that if I could remember how to do that - once every 12 - 18 months is not frequent enough to get that in the long term memory - it least at this age it is.
 
Here are a bunch of pictures before she goes in the display cabinet.

 
And here she is in her new home.

And here is the fleet - or most of it anyway.
 

 
 
 
 

Hi
I have spent a few days making the decorations of the stern of the frigate La Mahonesa. I leave here some photos of the work I am doing
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cordially
Adrián Sorolla
 

Or to make a nice cup of tea and a bacon sandwich.

Maybe the carpenters were using the hearth to keep warm while fitting out the ship in those cold winter months?

The next step was to create the bulkhead on the lower platform.   This was laser cut.   All I had to do was cut some 1/8" x 1/8" strips to simulate the vertical beams.  I just cut them to length and glued them on.   Now this piece may not actually fit your model perfectly.   There are just too many variables.   It all depends on where you placed that first platform beam.   It also depends on how you faired the interior of the hull.  But I sure it could be tweaked in most instances.   If you had to, you could use this as a starting point template to make another.  It isnt very difficult to do.
 

This is a picture of the bulkhead glued in position.  It is glued on the forward side of that first platform beam.   The templates are there to help me during the next step.   I will be adding the carlings and ledges.  They can be taken right from these templates which are on the plans.  
 

Here is a photo of the ledges and carlings completed.  These will support the scuttle lids once planking is finished.  I plan on planking the entire platforms.  I think it will make creating the various cabins a lot easier.
 

Planking is underway with 5/16" x 3/64" cedar strips.  I am not too concerned about getting up close to the sides of the hull.  Depending on how fairing went, this could sometimes lead to a weird shape along the edge of the platform.   So I concentrated on making a nice shape with the outer edge of the platform deck planking since the sides of the hull inboard will not be planked.  I am getting close to the side though and creating a consistent shape port and starboard.  It will be impossible to see the sides of this planking when done.  Once I get this done I will add the metal work (eyebolts with rings) for those scuttle lids.   Then its onto the two aft platforms which are done in a very similar way.   Also note the two cut-outs for the legs of the riding bitts.   The planks were cut so I could slip the riding bits down into those slots...hopefully!!!
 

Somebody asked to see a wider shot of the hull with the depth gauge in position.   So here is a picture of the hull all dusty after finishing the planking on those forward platforms.  Dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  
 

Before I can begin placing the beams for the lower platforms,  I must make a height gauge first.   There are many ways to do this and a system will be very important to have moving forward on this project.   Greg describes one method in his books on Speedwell.   I have decided to go another way.  I prefer to make a depth gauge of sorts.  
 
Here is a photo...you folks can of course select any method you prefer.  I am fond of this one and such a gauge can be made with readily available scrap strips...Note how the pointer is a separate it to be slipped onto the lower shaft.   It is basically a very large T-square.   I used 3/32" thick strips but they are fairly wide so they wont bend or flex.  The center of the "T" is thinner at about 1/16" thick.

The pointer is meant to be slid onto the center shaft of the "T".  Everything is squared up and at perfect right angles.   Nice and neat.

Basically take the measurements from the plans to find the depth of any beams etc.   Like the forward platform beams.   The underside of the "T" is set flush with the sheer on the plan.   Then I mark the top of the platform beam on the center shaft...without the pointer on it.   Just a pencil tick mark.
 

Then the pionter is added to the shaft and lined up with the tick mark.  The pointer must fit nice and snug so it doesnt shift around.  Its a very tight fit on purpose.  Then the depth gauge can be brought to the model as shown.   Repeat on both sides for each beam end.  I am marking the height for the tops of the beams.  Find where that beam should be and mark its height on the model.  Repeat this process for every lower platform beam end.  Then connect the marks to find the proper height for the platform.   Basically repeat this on both sides.  Hope that makes sense.
 

I am basically trusting that my sheer on the model is correct and even on both sides.   I am confident...
 
But if your sheer is off you have bigger problems anyway.  No matter what method you choose there will be issues.   This is just one method that can be used.  I did this for all the lower platform beams which are 3/16" x 3/16" cedar.  That is except for the most forward platform which has 1/4" x 3/16 beams just under the stove.  Check you plans carefully.  The beams have no roundup and are just cut from strip stock.   They are carefully measured and shaped to fit snug.  Placement is important here.
 

In fact the placement of the first 1/4" x 3/16 beam of the forward-most platform is very important.   It is exactly 5/16" away from the beam aft of it on the lowest platform.   So a small jig was laser cut to help find its location.  This will be provided.   It sits on the lower platform beams which went in first.   It has laser etched marks to help you place that first beam in position correctly at the right height and the right distance from the lower platform beam.
 

Once all seven of the forward platform beams were in place I tested my placement with the a cutout of the plans.  Everything is level and the plans fits pretty darned good.

Next up is to add the a bulkhead and some additional framing on these platforms before I plank them.
 
Hope this makes sense...
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 
 
 

Work has started on the interior.   Not much in this initial step but it was good to get started again.
 
First up was to add the limber strakes.  In the photo below you can see the completed limber strake below the keel.  This was made up up three lengths.   Above the keel you can see the 3 lengths not yet glued into position.   They are laser cut for you and are 3/32" thick.  There is a laser etched rabbet which runs along the inside edge.  Each of the three lengths were first sanded free of laser char.   This included carefully sanding the rabbet more or less.   But it doesnt have to be completely clean.   This will be completely covered up in some areas with the lower platforms anyway.  But do your best.  You might also notice the little ….long, triangular pieces called Limber Fillers for lack of a better term.   They were glued to each limber strake ahead of time.  They are at the extreme ends fore and aft.  Dry fit all three lengths in position first.  This is important.   Make sure they are lined up with the correct frames.   You can take their positions on each end from the plans.
 

The center limber strake was added first.  The ends are 5/32" away from the keelson.   So it was just a matter of taking a scrap piece of wood 5/32" thick to use as a spacer when gluing it in position.   This is shown below.  Once again...make sure you position it in the correct spot and use the plans to find which hull frames this should line up with.   Its good practice because so many items moving forward need to placed in the correct spot...the hull frames are a great reference to start with. Once the center segment was glued in place the two end sections followed.   Make them the same port and starboard of course.   But you may also wish to pre-bend these before you glue them in position.  Especially at the bow and stern sections.   There is a little bit of twist to these and it is always better to not force them.  It is so much easier to pre bend and twist so no forcing of the limber strakes will be needed to get them to sit flush against the frames.

With the limber strakes completed, the mast steps can be assembled and installed.   I would also note that I didn't bother treenailing the limber strakes because it will just not be seen.   But you can do that if you feel compelled.
 
The mast steps are laser cut in three layers to make life easier.   Glue up the three layers first and remove the laser char.  Once they are nice and clean, check their fir over the keelson.  You should get a nice tight fit and the sides should fit snug down on top of the limber strakes.   Note how the outside edges of the mast steps follow the shape of the limber strakes.   You should sand them as shown in the photos and plans.  The main mast step is shown below.   You can clearly see the three layers.   Dont worry about the char in the mortice for the mast.   Leave that as is.  The main mast step also has little wedges fore and aft as you can see.   These are laser cut for you.   They were glued into the correct position on top of the keelson.   This is important!!!  place the mast step in the correct place or your masts placement will certainly become problematic.
 
A small length of 3/64 brass rod was used as the pin to "lock in" the little wedges after I glued them all in position.
 

A look at the mizzen mast step...no issues here other than the fact that the sides of the mast step have more shaping here.   They also follow the outside edge of the limber strakes.  I have not applied any finish inboard at all up to this point.  I actually might not apply any finish.   I will wait to see how things develop first.
 

An overall view of the mast steps and limber strakes.   I will not be adding the limber boards, choosing instead to follow Greg's construction and to simplify the building process.   "Less is more" when you leave the framing visible below the wales.  You wont want to see much stuff between the frames when you looking at the outside of the hull.  It could start to look sloppy with too much interior details and glue showing between the frames.  So I will follow the style as outlined in the Seawatch books for the most part.
 

 
Next up the forward lower platforms!!!

Evening, 
Cold snowy New Hampshire night. A good 5-6 inches has fallen since lunchtime. 
Needless to say, the ride home was slow and long. 
 
But, home safe, chicken parm is in the oven.
Niagara needs a small update. 
 
For some reason I re-visited the Cutter and yawl. 
I need to start cracking on these things. 
I originally built the cutters when I started this kit, well now it's time to incorporate them. 
These will make an appearance later on. 

With the foremast main shrouds installed. 
I wanted to get the sheer poles going.

My alignment on the deadeyes in the shrouds has some wobble, but not too bad. 
I would say I've done worse or better but can't. This is the first time I've gotten this far with a ship. 

Working my way up the shrouds. 

Both sides will be done. 
Learn on one side, then repeat.

Below is the current state of affairs. 

Stay warm,
 
Tom E
 
 

Square tuck
I wanted to give this a try at least once before making use of the laser cut versions. #1. I copied the angle from the laser cut piece onto the joined strips. #2. The frame was made and set parallel with the angled line. #3. The curves were done with the spindle sander and disc sander along with a bit of hand work. #4. Almost ready to place on the ship. I Still needed to taper the frame.
The most difficult part was trying to get symmetry between the two sides. It's not perfect, but certainly close enough. I was kicking myself when I noticed that the top of the port side square tuck is 1/64" lower at the stern post compared to the other one. Of course this won't be seen once the moulding is on. I left the outer area of the frames without any tapering. There is a tiny filler plank that goes between the tuck and the first strake. I will wait until that's on the ship, so I can sand that area all at the same time.
 
Anyway only one shot at it for this result.
Mike

I have to admit that I don't have the books from SeaWall to know better, but I am curious if you and especially Chuck will be doing any interior on this model. Progress is looking great, Mike. You are a very skilled model maker and this has been a great treasure to follow. Kuddos
 
Brian D 

Thank you for the great picture of your collection of rib frame pieces. I had been curious about how you and Chuck as well as many better model builders were making your hull ribs.  Been struggling with making better frames and making those wedge parts looked so fiddly and asking for fractures. Keep up your great skills and I am enjoying this read.
 
Brian D.

Thank you for the great pieces of advice you're sharing with all of us and this beautifuly made model ship. Your hawse timbers look perfect.
 
Brian D

Good luck to you with this new project, Mike! I am sure that you will make a great model of the Speedwell like you did with the Winnie. I will be following you with this project. 

Your Portland model is coming along great, Joe. I'm impressed with the frames and hawse timbers. She's going to be very sturdy indeed. It seems to me looking at your support jigs that all three conveniently are about where the masts would be on this beast.  Going to need to try this CAD program you are using even though I don't plan to do any woodburning.
 
Brian D

Your Portland model is coming along great, Joe. I'm impressed with the frames and hawse timbers. She's going to be very sturdy indeed. It seems to me looking at your support jigs that all three conveniently are about where the masts would be on this beast.  Going to need to try this CAD program you are using even though I don't plan to do any woodburning.
 
Brian D

As an amateur model builder myself, I do have a scroll saw and it is nice, however it looks to me more like a disc sander or oscillatory sander would be a greater addition.

What a process doing this all from scratch. Amazing work.

So after a week of waiting on some parts to show up that I had cut wrong prior, I was finally able to get back on track. 
I started by assembling the bulkhead former, this is in 3 pieces but I’m toying with switching to two or possibly even one if I can find a box large enough. This goes together pretty easy, I used wax paper and smashed it in a vise until the joint was dry and then repeated until complete. I also added a rabbet strip, this was just basswood I cut on my saw, it required slight heat on the bow to make the curve easier.
Next is the knee, at 1/48 the knee and the false keel parts are just shy of 5/16 which is great, it will leave you some room to sand the parts and that’s what I did, now all these parts are two pieces of 5/32 AYC glued together, cutting 5/16 in one shot just had too much angle to it, it made assembly pretty difficult, but I’m still working on trying to improve the laser cut, perhaps I’ll get it in one piece someday but not for this model.


As you can see i just etched some of the parts on to the main part of the knee, this is actually pretty convincing, I did however toss in a reference line for the paint and where the wales meet the knee, I don’t like it and probably won’t keep it there, but it will get painted over on this model anyway.





Once the knee and all the false keel parts were assembled I measured the width of the former and subtracted it from the cedar pieces, using this number, roughly 1/32, I layed the former down with the 1/32 spaced sheet underneath and glued the knee and keel parts onto the rabbet. This kept everything in line and centered very well. I carefully sanded the AYC with 100, 220 and finally 320 and gave it a quick bath in some WOP just to protect it from my filthy hands.

 
Next I assembled the stands and lined them all up with a level and glued them down, the next set I screwed down, otherwise I’d never be able to lift the model out. From here I just dry fit and tested all the bulkheads, some required a bit of filing from different laser settings, the production parts will not.


 
 
Tomorrow, if I have any time, I plan to start installing the longitudinal frames to lock it all together, from there I’ll build the new stern jig and start installing the frames.

JJ
 

Thanks Tobias but I can assure you that this build is far from perfect mate.  I'm constantly having to make allowances for earlier errors but I guess thats ship building for you.
 
The scuppers - The technique that druxey suggested to me works great for finding the line through the hull.  On this scale though it's a long way through the hull to make each side meet.  I guess you just have to be brave and get cracking with a chisel.  So first of all I cut the holes through as best that I could - I did pick up a little damage but nothing really to worry about.  I've also learnt that these small errors disappear in the long run as you simply stop seeing them.
 

Next I made a rectangular tube out of pewter - easy to make and difficult to fit through the hull - it just takes time.

Then I roughed the tube to the correct dimensions but left some on to sand down later.  Its worth noting that that the tube dimensions are slightly different from the outside to the inside.

Following on from my previous bad experience using cyano I glued these in using 20 minute epoxy resin.  I really like this glue - it gives loads of time to jiggle things around and cleans up easily with IPA.

Next was to make the end plates on the inside and outside.




So thats one side complete and now onto the starboard side - which I still haven't finished nailing yet!
 
Cheers Mark