Landrotten Highlander

A group on an intro to carving would be great......that subject might be a little advanced and intimidating...but maybe say this.   As it is applicable to the carved work in bas relief that is common on many period ship transoms and trail boards.   
 

Hi All,
 
400 hours into the journey.  I have spent the past two-weeks doing rework on the top timbers as well as addressing some other quality issues.  Overall, I am happy with the progress, but am frustrated by the little mistakes that caused the rework.  Somewhere along the way, the scale of my drawings was converted to "fit page" as opposed to "100%".  This caused the top timbers on frames 1-6 to be too short.  Ugh.  Its only off by 3/8th of an inch, but that matters to me.
 
I want to reinforce some of the ideas on what I would do better on next time.  I have posted most of these already, and, they are worth remembering:
1. Make your top timbers at least a 1/4 taller than required.  This allows you the wiggle room, as well as a place to put your spacers and not have to worry about messing up the actual frame.
2. Make the chocks from the same wood as the frames.  I replaced five frames that had the chocks sanded through.
3. Leave plenty of meat on the frame when installing chocks - this will come back to haunt you.
4. Consider building this ship in 1:48 scale to take advantage of all the small details.
5. Install the chain plate filler pieces as you go.  They are a permanent part of the ship and can aid in stabilization of the frames.  You also will need fewer spacers.
 
I plan to replace the top timbers on the s/b side 1-6 and then add treenail and bolt details this week.  I will then do a final sanding of the outside hull and then install the ribbands.  I really wanted to get her cleaned up before I show her at NRG next month, but will not rush to do that.
 
More next Monday.  Best, G

To to continue: The ball-end lever for the locking bolt was fashioned from a short piece of steel in several steps: first the stem that will be a push-fit in a hole of the bolt was turned;
 

 
chucking the material with this stem, then the main part of the lever was turned conical, leaving a part cylindrical for the ball-head;
 

 
the conical part was given a waist using the free-hand turning rest;
 

 
and finally the ball-head was formed using the radius-turning tool.
 

 

 
The tool-bit in this case was a 2 mm HSS-bit in a special holder that allows to form a sphere with a sharp edge at the stem.
 

The finished ball-lever
 

Ball-lever actuated locking pin in place
 
To be continued ....

Hello,
 
Another small detail checked form the to do list.
 
Alexandru

Additional Photos
 
Note the intricate carvings
 

 
Raven

 
Ship's Rudder

 
Stern area
 

Draken Harald Harfagre

The Viking ship arrived at the Hudson River Maritime Center in Kingston NY last night (Thursday Sept 8th) after sailing from Norway. Today thru Monday she is open to the general public for deck tours. The Admiral and I decided to beat the weekend crowds and went down this morning to take a tour. The boat is massively impressive although I'm not sure I would want to cross the North Atlantic in her. I think they said she carried a crew of 33 people.

For those not familiar with her, she was built in Norway not as a replica but as a recreation of a Viking ship taking her design from a patchwork of historical clues, not the least of which was the Gokstad ship found iin a burial mound in 1880.She is a recreation of what the Vikings called a "Great Ship"; her hull is constructed of Oak and her mast and spars are of Douglas Fir. Her length is 115 ft, beam 26 ft, mast 79 ft and 2800 sq ft of silk sail, draught is 8 ft, displacement is 90 tons. The ship is named after King Harald Harfagre, the king who united Norway into one kingdom. She left  Haugesund Norway on April 26th 2016, with stops in the Shetland Islands, Faroe Islands,  Iceland, Greenland, Newfoundland Canada, Quebec Canada, then down the St Lawrence river and into the Great Lakes stopping at American and Canadian ports in each of the Great Lakes as far west as Duluth MN and Green Bay WI. Then back eastward to Lake Ontario and into the NYS Barge Canal System (aka Erie Canal) to Albany and then down the Hudson River to Kingston NY. Her next scheduled stops are New York City and Mystic CT and then ??????

The photos below show the highlights of our tour today.
 

 
Bow area with Dragon's head and ornamentation along the cap rail
 

 
Capstan
 

 
Main Deck looking Aft - under the sun shade tarp
 
The two red canvas covered areas are the ship's "hatch" - the larger one aft is the crew's quarters.
 

 
Note the oar "lock" hole in the ships side just above the deck, this is where the oars pass through.
 


 
Dead-eyes for Shrouds
 


 
One of the many oars
 
Note the hand hold carved into the oar in the 2nd photo below

 

 
Ship's winch

 
Crew's Quarters
 

This small project is almost done. Here are some more progress pictures.
 
There are two things I don't really know how to solve so maybe someone can give me some ideas:
 
1. How to coil the rope from the gun tackles on the deck - those rope spirals?
2. How to make a flag and from what to hang at the top of the mast?
 
Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Regards,
Alexandru

more

more

Was kind of working holiday: had to work on finishing off the decoration and furnishing of our part-time home in Spain - putting in/up wardrobes, building a mock fire-place (unfotunately, we can't have real one there), etc.; jumping up and down the ladder at around 30°C made me loose some 4 kg in weight - feeling a lot fitter than before the holidays - but have been to the beach only once ... grilling on the beach in the August heat is for German and British tourists only anyway
 
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The milling spindle will be secured in its place between the two brackets by a lever-actuated excentric bolt that pushes it down. I found a rough excentric bolt in my scrap-box of odd lathe parts, but it would have been as easy to start from scratch. The excentric was worked over holding the bolt in the 3-jaw-chuck with a brass-shim to give the off-set.
 

Rough and ready method for excentric turning
 
The head was turned with the help of the shop-made radius-turning tool (which I originally made to be able to turn miniature door-knobs and the likes). The tool-bit diameter was chosen to match the neck and shoulder of the bolt. The turning operation was followed by smoothing with wet-and-dry paper and steel-wool of various grades. Finally, it was polished with polishing paste. The pictures below show the various steps of this machining process:
 

 

 

 

 

 
To be continued ...

Devised a possible new easier method to set up the transom pieces.
I used a couple pieces of packing Styrofoam saved from some purchases (yes I am a pack rat)
Drilled a 0.3125 hole in for a 0.3665 OD carriage bolt
The snug fit allows me to move the bolt up and down while the Styrofoam holds it snugly.
I use my scaled squares to level it off.
 


 
I also installed some bolts but need to research a bunch more.
 

Monday, September 5th, 2016  
Another small step forward on the ship launch . . 
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02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20160906_090756_zpsumfeyeyw.jpg

03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20160906_090714_zpstp7vxila.jpg

04 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20160906_090744_zps08topydh.jpg

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Regards, Jack.Aubrey
PS: regarding my hospital stay, everything went well and, matter much more important, there was nothing wrong. Thanks to everybody.
 

Now, with the summer holidays behind me, I am back in the fora and in the workshop   However, first a little postscript on things that were completed before the vacations:
 
A couple of pictures that show the different components of the y-axis spindle. Also visible on the first picture are the parts of the friction brake for the dial, short piece of acrylic rod that is pressed down on the spindle with a set-screw. Tightening or loosing the screw allows to adjust the friction.
 

The parts of the y-axis spindle
 

Spindle assembled
 

Spindle in its working place
 
To be continued ...

September 2016 - Apologies for the slight delay in this one, it is the holiday season after all. Thank you folks, your generous comments are much appreciated - all of the tools are designed and custom made by me for the job in hand - a workshop is a never ending delight, when ‘almost’ all things are possible.

 

Fig-37  - So we now have a set of Ships Frames, well almost, there are still some fitting to be made and attached before we can start to assemble them, however I first needed to know what problems there could be in the process before advancing to that stage.  Apart from a model ship yard - jig - required to hold all the parts together, there appeared to be two further machines required before I could get to that stage.

 

Fig-38 - All of the Ships Frames run across the hull, for obvious reasons, but what holds these together are the Keels and Stringers, in the first place, after which the Ships Plating, which we will come to later.  The Keels and Stringers presented a particular problem.  The Frames are set at two feet intervals - scale size one quarter inch, indicating that rivet heads, now need to be placed very precisely  on the angles at these distances, further, that two rivet heads are needed at each frame crossing, as at each such point a small angle bracket was riveted to the Frame on the opposite side to the Reverse Frame.  So in the case of a Stringer made up of two Angles riveted together for their full length, where this crossed a Frame, it was riveted to it with four rivets, two to the Reverse Frame, and two to the small angle bracket.

 

Fig-39 - The placing of the Rivet heads on the brass angles to be used to make up the Keels and Stringers, now needed to be placed exactly 1/16” apart at 1/4” intervals.  I did consider a spiked wheel as with the previous rivet head maker, but the larger gap between the spikes would not allow it to work satisfactorily, so a new solution was required. This was to replace the single pin in the Single Rivet Head Maker (SRHM) with a double one with the two points formed exactly 1/16” apart. To place these at 1/4” intervals I devised a stepping mechanism that attached to the front of the SRHM, in place of the adjustable table. With the brass angle clamped to one end, this provided for twenty stops, equivalent to 40 feet of angle, which was about right for the lengths used.  For those interested in the mechanism, detailed photos can be found here < http://www.wworkshop.net/Falls_of_Clyde/Gallery-12.html >

 

Fig-40 - Before the Stringers and the Keels can be attached hundreds  of very small angle brass brackets, each provided with rivet heads on both angles are required, all cut to exactly the same length, and for convenience, cut from pre tinned material. Also required further down the line are the Ships Plates together with their Butt Straps, among other parts, again all needing to be cut to an exact length, and many times over.  For this I created a precision Guillotine with a hardened gauge plate cutter formed in two sections.  The main form of the blade provides for a long straight cut, but on the right side the blade is formed into a small ‘V’ for cutting the angled brass, with a ‘V’ed channel running up to this, so allowing the brass angle to be cut and not deformed in the process. The Guillotine is so made that it is provided with micro adjustment of several stops, that can go down to two feet and up to 40 feet, in scale size of course.  Note Jock the riveter, I made him early on as a guide to proportional size on all things, and found him very useful for the purpose. Construction details of the Guillotine can also be found on my web site.

Thanks Taylor. Coming from you, is proud.
Hi Cog. The scale is 1/24.

Thanks for all the "likes" and comments.  After getting everything else around the house done and then getting the new mill set up, i'm busily planking the lower deck.
 
The first six strakes are finally in and I'm happy with them although there's some serious sanding in my future as they aren't all the same thickness...    But I've sorted out the planking scheme that I need to lay down.  This deck is all 1 foot wide and 4" thick planking.  It's actually thicker then the gundeck which is 3" thick but mostly not as wide.  I'll fight that battle when I get to the gundeck as there are some varying widths and thicknesses there.  
 
For the lower deck, as near as I can find, the planks are all run pretty much the same width from fore to aft with hook scarfs at the bow and some tapering at the stern.  I'm going full width but with the partitions fore and aft, I'm not planking much beyond them...  One reason is that the Admirals Plaque is behind the aft partition in the gunroom.
 
Here's a pic.  
 

 

Más

Más

Thanks for this last post, Karl, very educational
 
Slainte,
Peter

Thanks for this last post, Karl, very educational
 
Slainte,
Peter

Thanks for this last post, Karl, very educational
 
Slainte,
Peter

Thanks for this last post, Karl, very educational
 
Slainte,
Peter

Thanks for this last post, Karl, very educational
 
Slainte,
Peter

Thanks for this last post, Karl, very educational
 
Slainte,
Peter

Hello friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
Karl