Landrotten Highlander

Two new parts - two variants of an anchor and a harpoon.
 

 

 

 
P.S. I made these details are not too good, so I'm going to make them again.

Next - priming, sanding and finally painting the Fish
 

 

But recently I got the kit of the figures in the scale of 1/72 based on "Treasure Island" by R L Stevenson and the another kit with the set of boat's rowers ...
My thoughts began to move toward the crew manning the boat ... So, too, is nothing special ..

Thanks again all for the nice comments. Sorry, it's taken me so long to come back here. Once I got the model off the workbench and onto the shelf, I got preoccupied by the next piece of business. For one, I just wrote up a piece for the Nautical Research Journal. Hopefully, it will make more people aware of this wonderful kit.
 
In the meantime, I know of two others who will be building the Tosa Wasen kit and I hope to see a build log from one of them soon! mwb??
 
 
For the record, I'm tinkering with the construction of a 1/10-scale Japanese traditional boat workshop display. It's really just the framework of the shop with much omitted for visibility. I'm not sure how interesting it will end up. I'm still tinkering with ideas. If you don't know anything about how these boats are/were built, you should visit Douglas Brooks' blog and/or buy his book: http://www.douglasbrooksboatbuilding.com. To get to his blog directly, visit http://blog.douglasbrooksboatbuilding.com.
 
He was just in Japan for a couple month building a rice field boat for a museum up on the Noto peninsula and another boat, from Northern Japan I believe it was, for a museum in down in Kobe.
 
 
The boat I'm going to piece together for the boat workshop is an Urayasu Bekabune, a small fishing boat used on Tokyo bay. You can find more info about the boat on Brooks' website. The one for the boat workshop display will be only partially built, since the idea is for an "under construction" scene. But, I'll complete another one, since at some point in the project, I'll know how. And, it's a very simple type of boat – much simpler than the Tosa Wasen.
 
Clare

burnishing

 
 
the little door

 
 
I fixed the hinges with these beautiful rivets round head  0,3x2 mm

 
 
and this is the end result: the photos are all in super-macro!

 
 
The door is fully functional, although it is terribly delicate!

 

 

 

 

I started to build the doors for the oars; the major difficulty has been to be able to realize the hinges so that they were functional.
 

 
First, by a thin copper foil has formed the curved part:

 
 
I filed the interior with the grinding wheel after drilling the holes 0.3 mm

 
 
I finished the outside

 

 
 
I made the hinges by cutting half with the grinding wheel

 

 
 
The part of the hinge to be fixed at side

 

 

 

 

I finished all the hooks with ring and set them on:

 

 

 

 

Another photos 
 

 

 

Hi Gerhard,
 
I do it again!

 

 

Not many photos this week.  With the engine complete I've moved on to the boiler deck.  I'm going to attempt to build it flat and lay it onto its supporting posts.  I've drawn the deck beams along the proper sheer in AutoCAD to get the proper beam spacing. I did the same for the main deck  If all goes as planned, it should shorten to the proper length when bent to the sheer.
 
 
Kevin's sketch of the boiler deck cabin arrangement.

 
Boiler deck being assembled on a drawing of the flattened main deck.

 
 
This post was light on photos so I decided to throw these in.  Our conservation lab has received a large number of artillery shells from the C.S.S Georgia and they needed wrenches to remove the fuses (the explosive has been rendered inert by years of submersion in salt water)  The manager of the lab, Jim Jobling, came up with the idea of using socket wrench sockets for the job.  It took me five minutes to mill down the teeth and they work beautifully.

 

 

4th picture  a tool to turn ropes coils with a coil ejector

Hi Mike K,
I think, your better bet would be with the monograph on Le Fleuron by G. Delacroix rather than the 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship by J. Boudriot. Different ships, rates and a bit different times (besides one volume would cost you much less than four of them).
I don't own this monograph  http://ancre.fr/en/monographies-en/55-monographie-du-fleuron-vaisseau-de-64-canons-1729.html?search_query=Le+Fleuron&results=2#/langue-anglais  but I do have those 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship (in fact I am in the midst of building the 1:48 model based on the works of Boudriot) and I have to tell you that this type of project is strictly for the most experienced modelers, with several other models behind their belt, so to speak. The build is extremely complex and "complicated", you have to have many different power tools, good quality materials and an appropriate space (workshop) for your endeavour. You need to be able to read some very complicated plans and perspective drawings. And be prepared to spend several years of intensive work to complete your model, if you want to build it faithfully to the plans. The French are famous for complicating the matters, they used elaborate wood joints, scarphs, profuse decorations... Ouchhhh... I am sweating bullets already with my 74!
And Le Fleuron seems to be even more complicated!!!
Even more importantly, you have to have a very patient and understanding wife, who will not mind you spending more time with your model than with her!   
I have in excess of 300 photographs from various stages of construction of this awesome model (LF) in 1:64 scale, by one of the Japanese modelers - if you decide for sure you want to tackle this project, I could send them to you (CD), that is, if you want them, off course. I would need at least your home email address for that, however. Send me a private message, if you are interested, OK?
I attach below one of the pics of this model. The upper section (above the main wale) can be raised with a push of the red button, to visualize the interior of the hull. Awesome!!!
 
As far as the French "Ancre", I have ordered a few things from them in the past. They are a reputable company, but since Mr. Berti now seems to be the only person taking the orders (J. Boudriot is deceased now), it sometimes takes a while to actually receive your books (depending where you live). One therefore has to be patient.
 
Happy modeling!   

Ben, Looking at those last shots inside the hull tells me that the wood has definitely shrunk across the grain, do not discount the wet towel Idea, when I took the tarp off my large boat maria this spring the deck planks had done the exact same thing because of the low humidity. One of the reasons that oakum caulked boats do not like being out of the water they shrink across the planks and then leak until they swell back up.
 
I was pouring water over the oiled planks for three days without much success then changed my strategy and laid wed towels over the deck and it all swelled back up in a day.
 
I would expect that once the wood swells back that the other issues will also lessen. I cannot hurt and is much less work that tearing it apart. once the wood has swelled then keeping the humidity stable should hold things untill the longitudenal elements are added.
 
Michael

I can't believe it has been over a month since I posted to the buildlog.  Unfortunately, I have not had much time to work on Atalanta.
 
The chesstree and the fenders are relatively simple structures, being essentially a straight piece of wood with a taper towards the water.  Make this taper first on an overly thick piece of wood and then sand the inside of the piece to match the curvature of the hull.  There is a groove scored on the outboard side.  Since the width of the piece decreases inferiorly, each groove must be cut in separately rather than together with a scraper.  I used a single tooth scraper to make the groove and then turned the piece around to cut the other side.  The chesstree had a sheave built into it.  I simulated the sheave by drilling holes at the top and bottom of the sheave opening and then used a chisel to carve the sheave.
 

 
The next step (no pun intended) was to make the six steps.  These were made up by scraping a molding for the mid-portion and then laminating three strips of wood, two on top and one on the bottom to the molding.  The sides of the steps were shaped with needle files and an 11 blade.  
 

 

 

 

 
The steps fixed to the wale were painted black.  The frieze was carried over the outer surface of the top step.  I left the top of the step solid blue.
 

 

 

 
The main and mizzen channels were added next.  These are pinned and epoxied to the hull since, in my past experience, they are easily knocked off.  The ironwork for the channels is next.
 

These are the ventilation scuttles to the aft quarters
open
closed

 
Dick

'Positively final farewell appearance!' So the old theatre posters read. And this is true for the Greenwich Hospital barge. The sub-base has been made and finished, and so is this log. My profound thanks to all who looked in, 'liked' and commented. You are a great world-wide network of craftspeople with whom I am proud to be associated. Happy model-making!
 
Serious enquiries of interest only for acquiring this model are invited.

I completed the formwork railing

 

 

 

 

 
 
I started the construction of the gun deck with the construction of the hook pins for the artillery:

 

 

 

 

In early April divers from the Maritime Museum found two wrecks from early 1600, older than Wasa. This is in water of Stockholm city. Just outside of the hostel, Af Chapman (fullrigged previous school ship) is where they have been found. No names yet, but hopefully when more survey has been done the maritime archives should have them.

Hello,
thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in. 
Here I show the to cut out of the raw locks
and another images of the interior works of the gig.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks for the comments and likes and for looking in.   
 
I've spent the last 4 days, working on the two main windows and tweaking the frames for the galleries.  The top was too far outboard and the windows didn't lean inward.   I've also done several iterations of the two rearmost windows to get the fit.  Here's were I am this weekend.   The windows will get cleaned up more (laser char) and then glazed before installing.  I'm going with full glazing as I think it will look better.  I'll also add the planking between them and finalize the forward most window.   I'm hoping that it will have the 3 panes wide but we'll have to see.  I'm thinking that this window was overall narrower than the other two with rectangular panes instead of square-ish.
 
Here's the pictures.  The first picture shows the "lean" that I was talking about with the red lines for emphasis.  The other two just show the window placement.
 

 
 

That might be worth considering, and though the dromon has no tumblehome, it has an equivalent in the fore-and-aft direction with the curve of the 'tail'.So I have to sort of rotate the hull fore and aft when I take the it off the plug. If there are grooves in the plug there's more chance of the frames jamming in the when I do that.
 
On the other hand, I'm thinking that I really have to get my wales shaped now  rather than after I've got rid of the grooves. They're thick enough and the frames are so thin that if the wales aren't properly shaped they'll force the sides of the hull inwards. And for the same reason maybe I need to make and position all my frames before I put the wales on.
 
This is one of the problems of being something of a newbie - not enough experience with the problems that are likely to crop up, and not enough experience with working out solutions to them beforehand. I get a bit terrified that I'll do something irretrievable that ruins everything and have to start all over again.
 
Still, that's part of the journey, isn't it?
 
Steven

Saturday 14 MAY 2016
 
Worked on the aft rising wood , deadwood and knee.
The rising wood is typically 22 inches wide except where the whole assembly tapers as it approaches the stern post.
 
Glued the knee to the deadwood
Glued the aft most rising wood section to the deadwood
Sanded the deadwood assembly to the proper angle to mate with the stern post.
Made the next two pieces of rising wood.
 
Took a couple photos (port and starboard sides) of the pieces dry fitted to the keel.
 

 

 
I have some fine tuning to do with some rising wood joints but thought I'd best walk away right now before I do Too much and regret it.
Once I have these fitting a wee bit better I will taper the deadwood, mark off and cut in the frame heel steps.
Then I think I will finish the shaping of the stern post assembly.

This week I completed the last significant part of the machinery.  We are fortunate to have the feedwater check valve still attached to one of the arms of one of the standpipes.  The valve comes off of the standpipe at about a 45 degree angle.  The probable location of the water line suggests that the valve could not have been on the port-most standpipe but the exact location could not be determined from the remains.  I opted for the inboard port standpipe because it places the valve closest to centerline.  In Alan Bate's Western River Steamboat Encyclopoedium he mentions that one method of preventing breakage in the long steam and water lines was to include a length of pipe with a large radius curve.  This seemed to work well in this location.
 
Standpipe and check valve being lifted from the river.

 

 

 

 
 
Check valve parts fresh from the mill and lathe.

 

 

 

 
 Check valve in place on the standpipe.  The valve had a short foot cast into the bottom of the body.  This indicated the the valve probably sat on a block to support its weight.

 

 

 
Safety valves and steam line from the steam drum to the engine added.  This steam line will be slung from the deck beams of the boiler deck.  I'm leaving the lever and weight off of the safety valve until the boiler deck goes in.  I can only imagine how many times I'd knock it off if I had to work around it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The loading port. The origin of the word port (opposite to starboard) is the loading port. In the days of the steerboard it is said that a vessel could not tie up at a jetty on the steerboard side for fear of damaging the steerboard and so the loading port was put on the opposite side, hence port and starboard
 
Many 15th century illustrations show the loading port.

 

 

 

 

Cheers
Dick

True eye candy.  Thanks for sharing - your log gave me both inspiration and knowledge.
 
Slainte
Peter