Landrotten Highlander

remade fire door, oven door on the other side, flue access and ash door i also added the fire bars on the front
 

 

 

 

Yes, Mark! It was very difficult to build it....
 
This is the other, with the small bell:
 

 

 

 

 

Carl, 
 
-no attention or correction was given to the color, the red  could be  corrected  before and/or after the picture
-attention was given only to  sharpness  
-the difficulty is this image is to see the 2 black straps on a black plate
 
Is the focus in the first image? May be.
Would it have been possible to do as well with the 3 images? probably with more time, it was just a fast comparison 
 
The idea was just to demonstrate:
the importance of lighting which is neglected as much in model building as in photography
and the possibility to see more with a good lighting

Here are the ''targettes"".
 
    first 3 pictures with different lighting :
 
Off camera flash
Speedlight
Ambient light
 
No flash, no details
 
Without flash, it is difficult and sometimes impossible  to see small parts details.
 
For these pictures, scale is 1/24, which is big, so imagine  at 1/100 without flash!

This week I finally got back to the boilers.  We only have a handful of pieces for the boiler so the appearance is a little generic.  I decided to go with a wood for that will be sheathed with brass and blackened.  Unfortunately, I didn't get many photos this week so I wasn't able to show all the steps I wanted.
 
 
Milling the boiler tubes.  The capacity of the TAIG mill prevented me from milling all tubes at once so I had to mill them in pairs.

 
First pair off the mill.  I tried to mill these with a 10 percent stepover but only got through half of it in 3 hours.  I switched over to 25 percent and you can see the difference about halfway through the part.  The previous photo is being milled at 25 percent and you can see the rough finnish.

 
Handful of pieces from the feedwater system.  The top flange on the standpipe supported the boiler tube and the arched webbing on the crosspiece supported the boiler sheathing.

 
Experimenting with the location of thefront of the boilers and the standpipes.

 
 
 The jig i used to crossdrill the standpipes.

 

 
Standpipes with bases added.  I still need to add the rest of the flanges and the webbing in between.

 
Boiler ready to be sheathed.

 

 
 
 

Lovely oar Druxey. Quite a dilemma with regards to displaying the full set. I vote for bundling them up and laying them inside the hull. To me, the other two options obscure the fine lines of the hull. We should start an MSW poll ( to coincide with our current obsession with polls). 

Thanks yet again, everyone. 
 
Now for the repetitive part; twelve sweeps. These were 19 ' 0" long. The blanks have been cut and roughed out using a mill. The first - my prototype - has been shaped. There will still be details to add such as the reinforcing strap at the end of the blade and the leather at the thole. These sweeps would be relatively simple to make, but for the curved blade.

Thanks again for looking in and all the positive comments.
 
Mahuna: I try to avoid sanding carved work whenever possible. If a smooth surface is required, I scrape it.
 
The scrolls are completed and the brackets installed and gilded. All that are left now are two ensigns and twelve sweeps! I'm still undecided as to how to display the latter. I could bundle them and lay them the thwarts, display them 'tossed' (upright) or in their tholes spread out on both sides. Decisions, decisions....

Steven: the ornamental work and stern were simply symbols of affluence and power. Practically, they were of no use whatsoever, other than providing windage!
 
Some further progress on the ornamental brackets. They are glued to a scrap base and the first sides carved. They will then be detached, turned over, and the other sides completed. As you can see, they are rather small and fiddly things to produce.

Hello Michael,

thank you for your interest in my work.
I try with my modest knowledge of English to explain the preparation of this part.
First, the dimensions of the part to be marked with a scriber on a brass plate. Then I saw using a coping saw the inner rectangle from the plate and then I cut with the tin snips, the part in the form.
With the file, the part is finally treated, as can be seen in the picture.


I hope I have expressed it somewhat understandable.

Hello Brian,

many thanks for your nice comment.

At the weekend I can have more time for my hobby, the model ship.
Moreover the weather is not so good. Therefore I can show you today a further advance of the construction of the gig.

 

 

I'd like one of these, a fully functional miniature Bridgeport!
 

Here's a lathe waiting for recovery, and Jung learns to work on it.

Thank you all for your appreciation of my work! If anyone is interested, they will continue the photo-report about the assembling of a milling machine...

I think this pretty close...   
 
Here's the jig I've been using along with a pattern.

 
I've cut out the coat from thin cloth that has a light brown stain to emulate the Stockholm Tar and have started the installaton.

 
It's been folded down for trimming and gluing.

 
And the final gluedown.  It bulges nicely but still needs a bit trimming after the glue sets.  The rudder is a slight angle to port and puts just bit twist to the coat.

 
I think I'm onto the quarter galleries....
 

Thank you all, yet again.
 
Today's work was on the Hospital badge that is mounted high on the boat's stern over the upper transom.  The pictures are self-explanatory. At this scale the paintwork is more impressionistic than accurate! I'll be refining the shell on the fore side of the badge more.

An alle Bekannte und Freunde in diesem Forum, ich lade euch herzlich ein am Freitag, dem 03. Juni um 18.00 Uhr zum Stapellauf vom neuen Modell, dem Maerchenschiff. Dieses Modell wird ab diesem Tag zu der Sammlung im Msueum mit ausgestellt.
 
Wer Zeit und Moeglichkeit hat, dabei zu sein, wird sehr herzlich begruesst.
Das wird ein Spektakel der Superlative dieses Jahrhunderts!!!
 

the oven will be completed only with next upper deck

No, I don't have any of these, but maybe I should check them out.
 
Here's some photos I didn't get the chance to put up in my previous post, by the way.
 
Two frames clamped in place: from above:
 

 
and from below:
 

 
And the first of two steering oars - I made it in two pieces. I cut the blade then drilled holes in a line and turned them into a slot that the loom would fit into
 

 
and the completed steering oar. A neater job than if I'd tried to carve it from a single piece of wood. Plus the oars I've made to date.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Terminé la jarcia fija.

This week I finished up the plumbing, reach rods and the other bits that tie the engine to the main shaft.  I decided to go with an oil finish for the wood and was able to oil the cylinder timbers, pittman and flywheel.  It gets a little tight with all the machinery and I wanted to make sure I got everything before moving on.  I'm leaving the throw-out bearings and bearing caps off until the upper works are a little farther along -- I may need to remove the paddlewheels temporarily.
 
Bronze cam frame bearings and caps added.

 

 
Cam rods in to determine the length of the reach rods.

 
Reach rod handles. 

 

 
Engine just about complete.  The steam exhaust stack will be blackened. Next week, on to the boilers.

 

 
Feedwater pump and pre-heater.

 
Starboard side.

 
 
Port side.

 

 

Thank you so much for the positive comment and to all for the LIKES
According to my announcement here more pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.
 
Milestone point tonight.  The rudder is finished.   It still needs another coat of Wipe-on-Poly but that will wait until the quarter galleries are finished and I'll do it all at once.
 
The second and third coats of stain did the trick.   The rudder coat looks pretty good in person.  Weird thing happened though, after the 3rd coat, the rudder suddenly got about a 10 degree rotation to starboard in it.  I think the coat may have shrank a bit... ????  I'm not going to argue with it as plan on have the yards rotated with sails in battle configuration (main courses brailed up and the rest set as needed).  I'm still researching this part as to what would be "normal".  The only thing not on the rudder is the emergency steering lines as from what I've read, they weren't put on unless needed.
 
Anyway, the pictures.... 
 
This was more for my benefit to check that the mortices for the main tiller and the emergency tillers were in the right locations.

 
The rest are just assorted shots of the rudder. 
 

 
I think I'll take the rest of the night off and tomorrow finish sorting out the design for the quarter galleries.   Hahn's plans and the NMM plans don't show the shape from above but there's enough hints from the stern view and side view to know that it's a semi-circle  and sticks out on the sides beyond the transom.

Ed: no special paper was used, just regular bond. As it's sealed on both sides, (paint on one, white glue on the other) deterioration is unlikely.
 
Thanks to everyone for looking in and for all the 'likes'. It's very encouraging!
 
Today I installed the aft thwart and mooring timber heads, as well as the tiller. There was no indication of a tiller on the draught, so this is my own invention. I may paint the hand-hold in crimson. The tiller was carved and sanded to shape by hand, not turned.
 
At this point in the build, it is time to make a list of what remains to be done. There are ornamental carved brackets at each corner of the coach, two ensign staffs and their flags. Also, there are twelve oars to make. Stay tuned!

Thank You very much.  The pumps have been completed.   You can see that I decided to paint them red.  Most people leave them natural but I figured I would go all in with the painted look.   The same is true for the pump handles and bracket.  These were made of either wood or metal.   Because most folks leave these natural I figured I would paint them black and make them look like metal.  This is how they were treated on the contemporary model of Surly. 
 

 

 

 
 
All of the pieces were painted before assembly.  Then I used some heavy paper to make the reinforcing band.  Those who have these plans will also notice that I have only used one band.   Yet on the plans there are two.  I have once again seen so many variations of elm tree pumps I figured I would show it both ways.  Those building Cheerful can decide which they prefer.
 
1. transfer the 7/10/7 template lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines as a guide.  Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8".  Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.
 
2. File and shape the bracket for the handle.   The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon.  Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape.  This will accept the handle.
 
3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off. Using an emery board this takes only a minute.  This will become your pump spout.  Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout.  Glue it to the pump tube.  All pieces can be painted first.
 
4.  Using some card stock strips wrap it around the tube as shown on the plan to simulate the metal reinforcement band.  One ore two is fine.  The top band should be carefully placed so the notch in the bracket accepts it at the the right height on the tube. So measure its location from the plan.
 
5. Glue the bracket into position.
 
6.  Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle.  Like an eyebolt.  Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube.  Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle site in the bracket nicely.  The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.  
 
7.  Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position.   Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start on the winch!!!