Landrotten Highlander

I've added the hand rails to the waste deck bulwarks and again drawing on my knowledge of Endeavour which is very much a contemporary of this ship in size, era and navy I opted to use squared posts for the handrails rather than round ones. If they were round they would have had turned details which can't be done at this scale but if it was Endeavour I can almost guarantee they would be squared timbers. Also in using square posts I didn't have to drill through the top rail and then add the cover strip which I didn't like the look of. Also based on Endeavour I have left the hand rails on both sides short to allow boarding because there is generally access from both sides of the ship.
 
I've also done the stbd aft window which was a challenge too. the plastic window molding was not great and again the timbers included weren't up to the job so again I used wood left over from other models. It's a fiddly job and now I have the port window to do.
 
A question  Has anyone had experience removing the wax from castings? How did you do it?
 

Well, I just today finished my one hole 16'-9" Aleutian hunting Baidarkas (Kayak) frame build.
Photo posted below for your amusement.
I will be writing this one up and submitting it for publication in the Nautical Research Journal.
My River Raft (above) was published in the issue that came out today.
Then I'll be back full time on my Billy Ruffian.

Rigging the cannons... as I finished the first one, -they looked a little big- so I wondered if the blocks are out of scale. So I did some checking calculations. The correct size according to Bellabarba's book it should be 180 mm. So for the model's scale that is 3.75mm. That means a 4 mm block was the best I could use. Still there are'nt any 4 mm blocks to buy. Only 5mm and 3mm blocks are there available, but still both have about the same deviation of 1mm from the size I actually needed to use. So betwwen the two I decided to use  the 5mm fine quality Syren Co. blocks which I already had.

# J
Decided to go ahead and “shift” so gap between frames is more balanced. 
I think it looks better and more realistic.
Read ahead on vol2 TFFM - realised I must double estimated for time to completion. 

I have had a bit of flow the last couple of days, and have almost finished with the rivets on one side. I have found a method that is somewhat efficient.
 
First I cut about 1 mm wide strips of black card stock. From the strips I cut small square washers. I use a pin to punch a 0.5 mm wide hole in the middle of the squares, and push the pin through a hole in a wood strip to widen the hole in the washer.

The washers are threaded over the rivet pins and a drop of diluted PVA glue is put on the pin before i press the washer flush with the plank.
 

In between the riveting I have started with the oars. I'm still experimenting a bit with the most efficient way to make all 16. I think I will end up proceeding with the way I have started, using my new whittling and cutting knifes. Regarding the form of the oars, especially the oar blades I don't have any definite sources. I have searched around a bit, and have opted for something similar to what the viking ship museum in Roskilde have used for their reconstructions. The length of the oars is the same as is used on the reconstruction.
 

 
 
 

The final deck is done and it was the easiest of all. However the ply false deck seems to be 3mm short because the stairway walls don't line up like the diagrams. I have to say I'm not impressed with the quality of the kit so far!
 
The plans show a sliding hatch above the gangway down into the cabin but there should also be doors, I'm not sure how I'd do them so I'll leave it for now and see what, if anything develops.
 

Hi Jorge, you PM is answered, sorry for delay...
 
meanwile the starboard upper head rail and knees are ready:
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex

Thanks John , Steven and Schrader. Most kind.
I have made the lateen yard using timber found in the local park. I was inspired by photographs of dhows which show that yards were not perfect machine turned bits of wood but somewhat rough and irregular. I suspect this was the case for this boat.
 

 

 

 

 

cheerio
Dick
 
 

I have taken a bit of a break from this model as I found more interest in continuing with my other build, the Sloop from Roslagen. I also was a bit tired of rivets after I had made all of them. Adding the washers is even more tedious, and requires more focus when threading the tiny holes over the pins.
 
Anyhow, a bit of progress has been made.
 

Fairing frames #G to #L
I’m having more trouble with these  than the numbered aft frames.
Is it my DYSLEXIA?
With the frames viewed as a group, it is obvious that J fore too thin-removed and remade.
The group still looks mal-aligned after some initial sanding. It appears that the depth of the seating notch are not accurate enough , so the curves are out.
Decided to remove all, as the problem seems to start with #L. Fortunately they are glued to the keel with PVA -alcohol does the job.
Each frame rechecked against the plans
Remake #k and #L (it was mistakenly misplaced with #H and overly faired)
Second futtock and port heights double checked.
Fairing inside is difficult and the curves require various techniques, and less opportunity to use electrical tools.
Reduced tendency for upper spacers to separate by using a cut rubber band to brace them.
I am leaving final faring and finish until all frames are in place.
 
*** Unhappy with the appearance of frames fore and aft of the sweep port. The distance between #J and #H is 4.24mm. This means the space between the pair of J’s is narrowed to 1.5mm.The space after is fixed as it is a bend pair.It looks weird.
I’m thinking of making #J aft with a forward shift.
Opinions and advice please.
 

Hello,
it is done 😅 All the hinges are ready. 
 

 

The fore deck is planked, it was much easier to joggle the planks on this deck due to ease of access. I've also done the kings cabin with two of my favorite pics of my little girl. I milled some flat brass bar into the picture frames and added a little furniture just for the heck of it. Now with the cabin top on you can't really see much in there but I know it's there.
 

To G. Delacroix - thanks for the info, I made the new one items with no wedges
To garyshipwright - I am using "10 Degree 0.1mm Tip Carbide CNC Bits Flat Bottom Milling Cutter V Shape" (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/852725456.html) for most of CNC 3D carvings. Question about tutorial - I am so sorry, making a video tutorial would be too time consuming and my knowledge of English is minimal.
I continue with the assembly of the capstans.
 

I continue to install the railing posts. Some parts are drilled at an angle by tilting the boat with a stand ..
 

 

 

 

 

 
And I created a sailor figure to measure the equipment..
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you druxey!
 
Dowmer, I can't use scrapers due to curvature and tapering. here are tools I have used for moulds and nearly completted second upper rail
 

 
Regards
Alex

Here is the first anchor. Based on the anchor found in the 7th century YassiAda wreck

 
and after blackening
 

Cheers
Dick

The waist deck has been planked. I'm happy to get that behind me because joggling the planks into the margin boards is always fiddly.
 
All that's left to do there is to scrape it with a sharp chisel.
 

I am getting vertigo just looking at the first picture...

Thank you for your comments.
 
All the following photos are from the little action camera:

Hi all,
 
the work at the head go on, here the new upper knee, held in place with three glue spots, and upper head rail. The scupper from manger was wrong placed. Is removed und will be new placed abaft the lower knee.
 

 

 
lower knee in process and all parts temporary placed:
 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Hi All,
 
Ropes situation is progressing.
I think at that point I have maybe 90% ropes done. 
For sure I will run out of some running rigging ropes... but missing ones I will do as required.
 
Next step is to add some tar and impregnation 😉
 
Below some photos.
 
Anchors cables
 

 
Main and fore mast stays
 

 
...and few with smaller "caliber" 😆
 

 

 
...and my chocolate box 🙃😂
 

 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi All,
 
Chris and Sam many thanks!!! You are very kind 

Ondras thank you. Your model looks great too. I'm following your build 😉
 
 
I have some small update

Masts are almost completed... just few little details missing... which probably nobody will never notice... but I have to do them otherwise my soul will wander forever in the limbo 😂
 

 
Caps were made using mill and for final touch just sand paper and files.
 

 
Also I've made imitation of iron fittings secured points for breeching and gun tackle.
Scuppers are also visible above wales.
 

 

 
At that point I'm working on ropes.
It's taking a lot of time... I'm on day 3 😆
...luckily I'm almost done with ropes... just few meters of 0,15mm, 0,2mm and 0,3mm missing.
 
For my model I've decided to use as a reference best source I could imagine. 
Ab Hoving and his publications about pinnaces. 
Amazing mine of knowledge 🤯 
 
So I've xero copy few pages from the book and recalculated whole rigging according to scale of my model... and I believe it's more or less accurate. Hopefully 😆
 

 
Having above numbers there was nothing else to do than start my ropewalk, which was made by one of my friend Roman also modeler form Poland.
Super solid. Great tool
 
For my ropes I'm using polyester threads no. 120 and 160. Also for smallest diameters no. 360.

For "smallest" rope I'm using 3x1 threads no. 360, which gave me 0,15mm rope and for the "biggest" rope (except anchor cables), which is Main Mast Stay 3x16 thread no. 120, gave me 1,65mm rope.
 

 

 

 
And just small "sample"


 
Cheers,
Matt

#G
Fore of pair -scarph joint-will be shortened to be under the port.
Aft-with toptimber-also shifted foreward and with motises for sill foreward and mortises for sweep ports aft.
Not worked on ship for a couple of days and when rechecking height of sills, some discrepancy between port and starboard is noted. Frames J and H tilted and reset
Further confusion. On my (not so clear) framing plan, there seems to be a variation in size of ports (by height) and the sweep ports do not measure as  square-3.5mmwide and 4.2 high.  
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP AND CLARIFY THIS.

 

Hello,
it is always a great pleasure when you see that others show an interest in what you do.
Many thanks for that.
The tye blocks for the main mast top have also been completed in the meantime.
I hope that the pictures speak for themselves.