Landrotten Highlander

To PeteB: I used the black translucent paper for the caulking.
The last stem decorations are added. All carvings are made with CNC milling maschine with small manual corrections.

Thank you Keith and also all who give me there likes.
It is done, also the port side is ready. The next thing would be the anchor lining. 
 

 

Fairing:
Should be straight forward,using a cutout of the foremost frame as a guide.
Extra strength with the cross spells and a supporting hand did not prevent a complete break through a couple chocks.
Where possible, as a contrast, the chocks were cut cross grain. These were a point of weakness and a mistake. Of course I have been heavy handed with the 80 or 100 sandpaper.
I had to remove the squares and remake the chocks.
Also the spacers at the top of the futtocks kept separating- should have reinforced with trunnels.
When building from scratch, there is much to think about. Even with the wonderful TFFM, something , even basics, is forgotten. 
I’m often learning something new, but forgetting something old-is this intellectual equilibrium or senility?
 

Hello,
today I finished the rigols at the starboard side and I destroyed only one! 
 

 

 

Louie da Fly will like this. I have come up with a possible explanation for the strange "hockey stick" structure at the top of masts of byzantine and venetian vessels. It is a pulley for the halyard but, after going through the pulley, the halyard is conducted forward to the tip of the hockey stick so as to pull the yard away from the mast. This makes it easier to raise and lower the yard.
 

 

 

 

 
This shows the mast in its step and lashed temporarily to the throughbeam and its stanchion.

 

 
Cheers
Dick

Thanks for the like.
 
On a vertical drill, I drilled holes for the support bars of the railing posts. These guarantee the exact shape..
 

 

 

 
And he completed all the wales at the stern..
 

 

 
 
 

Hello,
 
today I could proudly present the first installed rigols 😓
First I draw them at the computer
 

 
Then followed a sawing marathon 
 

 
And here they are. I carved them at the ship. There they are fast and could't move, so it is also healthier for the fingers. To the right is the jig for the high.
 

Hello al,
 
I have diligently worked last week, the open rails on the quarter deck are now completted.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
overall views:
 

 

 
forecastle planksheer in work:
 

 
Regards
Alex

Danke für die freundlichen Kommentare.
 
Update
Background changed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

First of all, many thanks to all of you for your interest in my construction report.
 
After a very busy week, I got back to model building a bit.
And again a few small things for the model on the way to the goal.
 
After the last work on the mast tops, the corvette's standing rigging is being built one floor higher.
Before the topmast shrouds can be put on, I first have to make and put on the burton pendants for the topmast burton takle. 

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
The section of the 74 gun ship is thus completed.
Karl
 

 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Matt, and also all others for your likes
 
Today I finished the rail at the star board side and some small things at the gun ports and there lids. Just to mention the dimensions of the rail, she is 4,5 mm broad and 1,2 mm high.
The next things are the rigols 😧
 

To Hubac´s Historian - Thanks for compliment.
I still have some rest at the stern - decorations.

Chainplates and Royal Cabin in place.

Hello,
yesterday the carpenters profiled the planks for the sheer rail and produced a lot of shavings. Today we fit them in at the port side. After I got a little routine with the ends, it was an easy job. Tomorrow we will make the starboard side. 
 

 

 

 

#12 square frame
The aft one of the pair is again “cast forward”by 1.06mm-a dogleg that will form an upright for a port.
This means that the upper futtock an extra 1.06mm thick.-total 6.36mm.
The frame also has a timberhead.
Make note of height of sill as the cast must end below this.(11.3cm)
Again postponed making the sill mortise-although easier off model, measurement is too critical.
I started the shift 10mm above the futtock head.The mill was used to remove the necessary wood and a transition slope ,sanded.
Before fixing in place,a critical problem (for me at least) needed to be solved.
The position of frames #12 and #11 are determined by the width of the port opening-the fore #11 forms the second port frame.
This is given in TFFM as 15.1mm-This will mean the frames will need to be somewhat crowded- the usual spacing not working.
My framing pattern does show use of narrower timbers, and less gaps, but also a port opening of 16.3mm. The other ports are however 15.1mm, so I decided for symmetry and same thickness timbers. Fore #12 and aft #11 will be short, supporting the sill, and a narrow gap between them.
Additionally, the #11 pair are again separated by spacers.
Here I found another problem. The rising wood finishes between the pair.I assumed a faint vertical line marked the spot on my sheer pattern.This appears to be too short.
There is a difference in width and I decided to simply narrow the notch of the aft frame.
(If this leads to a problem later on please let me know.)
Also, to ensure my measuring of port gap was correct, I glued together  the #11 pair with their spacers, off the model, and then confirmed my estimate and only then, glued the pair to their seats on the keel.

Continuation. 
 

 
 

 
Pawel 

I do not know if this system would work with this kind of carving, but I would like to share my experience with carving used in Bonsai trees.
 
Sometimes you want to show a branch that has died back a long time ago in your design.  The Japanese name is called 'jin' (pronounce like the drink gin).  To do this you need to remove the old bark - which can be particularly troublesome if the branch is a real dead on, not a living one you kill of to make it look dead.
I use very sharp knives to remove this - similar to what Chuck has been showing with his #11 blade.  Obviously you do not wish to see the cut-marks (otherwise it looks artificial, not natural as is desired).
 
To remove the obvious signs, I use the same knife, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface so that only a very narrow point of the cutting edge is actually touching the branch (in this case carved piece).  Moving this sideways - under very gentle pressure - will even off the edges of the cut marks, thus giving the look of a smooth surface.
 
Will take some time, but I think it will give a very smooth surface - after all, is this not a technique used for scraping deck and hull?
 
Just my two cents, now I will have my wee dram.
Slainte
Peter

The planking begins, you'll note that I glued the "negatives" of the bow molds to the stem to provide proper placement and wedging facility to keep the planks held properly at the bow. They will be easily removed later with a sharp chisel.
 
I've got 6 planks on each side but here it stops for a while because I don't like the alignment of the mast holes.
 
The fore mast will lean forward like an older VOC ship, the main will be vertical and only the mizzen will have a gentle rake aft like it should so now I have to take the angles off the plan and work out how to make it all work. This is the first kit I've had which doesn't include the mast angles. 
 

Ok, this will be a tad long winded.
 
Several years ago I was googling this model and stumbled upon a build on this very forum (that's how I came to join this little group) where the builder had taken the time to research and draw up the floor of the Kings cabin on his computer and the pics where beautiful so I asked him if he would be so kind as to send me the artwork and given my reason for building this he was more than willing to help. I don't remember who he was and as far as I know the build thread was lost when the site crashed a few years back.
 
Anyway, I am proceeding with my plans to fit out the Kings cabin. I cut out the centre of frame 7 and traced the floor beam at that station to put one on the back of 7 and another on the front of 8. To align them I just clamped some scrap to the existing floor section between 6 and 7 and used them as guides for the two extra floor beams.
 
I then cut a template for a new floor to cover the existing half floor and the new section aft of station 7 and cut the new floor from some 0.8mm ply and glued that down followed by the floor image.
 
I then lined the interior timbers with some 6 x 0.5 planks I had. There will be more in that cabin as time progresses.
 
On the subject of lining walls etc I differ from the kit manufacturers in that they recommend applying the facing planks AFTER doing the hull planking but it is so much easier to do all the surfaces that can be done prior to hull planking because you can just slap the planking on then with a sharp chisel trim to an exact fit without any drama.
 

druxey, could it be the cap square on that carronade was cast, not bent from sheet? I never thought of doing that. A good way to pick up the detail of the hinge and clasp...
 
I spent a good day bending up eye bolts for the gun carriages. I made a jig inspired by Alex M (HMS Sphinx), who got it from a German modeler 
Günter Bossong http://www.minisail-ev.de/fibel/fib-03-09/fib-03-09.htm.
 
It has a slot just wide enough for the leg of the eyebolt, and a drill the correct size of the inner diameter of the eye. A piece of copper wire of the correct diameter is bent at right angles and put into the jig, then pulled around the drill bit (the hole not being used is for the larger diameter eye bolts for the quickwork, still to come):
 

 
The wire is wrapped all the way around the drill bit, and pressed down on top of the leg:

 
The loop is then grabbed with pliers and cut with micro angle cutters just where the loop hits the leg:

 
a quick squeeze in parallel jaw pliers to flatten out, and voila, Bob's your uncle:

 
I see that one of the positions with the greatest job security in the 18th century British shipyard would have to be the guys who made the eyebolts and rings.
 
Here are 196 eyebolts, just for the 28 cannon carriages on the gun deck. Add in another 28 for the deck, and 112 in the quickwork, and no rest for the weary...
 

 
Mark
 
 
 

I was asked by Valentina Golycheva if I could do a painting of the attack on Convoy BD-5 - 12 August, 1944: The Marina Raskova was a soviet cargo ship that was torpedoed and damaged in the Kara Sea by U-365 (commander Kapitänleutnant H.Wedemeyer) while heading from Molotovsk to Kara's naval base at Port Dikson to supply food, technical equipment relief personnel and their families. The merchant ship was being escorted by three minesweepers from the 6. Minesweeper Division, and two of them were also sunk by the German submarine (T-118 and T-114). Marina Raskova was sunk by a coup de grâce the day after. Of the 632 men Women and Children on the three ships, 373 were lost and only 259 were rescued. Valentina's Father was among those killed. A little known event among the the the many tragedies during the war at sea in the Arctic Convoys. It is well worth looking into the story of Convoy BD-5 and subsequent expedition in 2015 to find and honour the remains of those who did not return Valentina Golysheva is well known in connection with Russian Arctic Convoy associations and Rememberance events in Russia and UK. She is Associate Professor, PhD Director of the British Centre Department of English School of Social Sciences and Humanities and International Communications Northern ( Arctic) Federal University (NARFU) Arkhangelsk

The riveting is now mostly complete on one side. I have built an inverted hedgehog 😀

 
Now I will continue with adding the washers. I ended with selecting black card stock (120g/m2) for these. They are cut as 1x1 mm squares and I use a metal pin to push a 0.5 mm hole. The rivets are about 0.3 mm so its not to hard to get the washers in place. I will put a drop of dilute glue under to fix them and then cut away the pin.

Hello, and many thanks for your likes. 
 
today I finished the gun ports so far, that they fit and being painted. The rest comes, after I painted the outside of the ship.
 

 

 

Thank you very much Hubacs Historian. 
 
I continue with the railing of the aft deck ..
 

 

 

 
The edges of the painted strips are fragile, I will have to retouch in one place..
 

 
Rounded railing parts ..
 

 

 

 
I tried the wax with which I will paint the moldings of Wales, if it does not destroy the paint with the varnish and it's great..