Landrotten Highlander
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from catopower in Kamakura Period Large Sea Boat by catopower - FINISHED - Scale 1:50
Great, can't wait
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from billocrates in 74-gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24
I do not know anything about the number of shot lockers, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the ships mates (young lads - kids, really) were used to haul shot manually from the locker and delivering them to the required batteries: i.e. Jimmy lad would go down into the shot locker, Wullie lad would lower a bag for Jimmy lad to fill, then Wullie lad would bring the bag to the appropriate gun and run back to get more shot from Jimmy lad.
I am assuming that something similar was done while loading the shot into the locker: rather than dumping them from height (particulalry for the first layer) they would be lowered for one lad to place them properly inside the locker. Dropping them from a height would always result in damage to the floor, and since this is so close to the keel it would be very difficult (and hence expensive) to repair.
I would also think that shot for smaller guns and carronades would be stored into the hold, as such ammunition would be needed whenever they landed somewhere so it needs to be really accessible.
Looking forward to hear other thoughts on this.
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from Saburo in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
might work if you use a plastic brush. The steel or copper brushes would imho be prone to create undesirable lines.
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from Saburo in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
I do not know if this system would work with this kind of carving, but I would like to share my experience with carving used in Bonsai trees.
Sometimes you want to show a branch that has died back a long time ago in your design. The Japanese name is called 'jin' (pronounce like the drink gin). To do this you need to remove the old bark - which can be particularly troublesome if the branch is a real dead on, not a living one you kill of to make it look dead.
I use very sharp knives to remove this - similar to what Chuck has been showing with his #11 blade. Obviously you do not wish to see the cut-marks (otherwise it looks artificial, not natural as is desired).
To remove the obvious signs, I use the same knife, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface so that only a very narrow point of the cutting edge is actually touching the branch (in this case carved piece). Moving this sideways - under very gentle pressure - will even off the edges of the cut marks, thus giving the look of a smooth surface.
Will take some time, but I think it will give a very smooth surface - after all, is this not a technique used for scraping deck and hull?
Just my two cents, now I will have my wee dram.
Slainte
Peter
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in The Saint-Philippe -1693 - Ancre
not quite. I study Advanced Manufacturing, and this volume came a bi too latee to build it into a 3D model so I can use additive manufacturing techniques to build her
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in The Saint-Philippe -1693 - Ancre
On my wishlist too. Currently finishing a MSc at University (going back after 25+yrs working was no doddle), then completing the 'man cave' before warming up to such a project.
..... Doesn't hurt to buy the book in the mean time, though
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from DaveBaxt in Acrylic paint tips and techniques
Thanks for putting this thread on.
For thosee who decide to paint with brushes, here is a handy tip when using water-based paints (or paints that can be successfully thinned by water, such as the Valejo paints): in orde to preserve your brush, use a shallow saucer or dish with a puddle of water in the middle. Place your brushes on the edge of the saucer / dish with the hairs submerged in the water. That way when you do apply paint the water will aidd in filling the spaces between the hairs with paint much quicker, and at the same time allow for the tip of the brush to remain in shape for much longer.
When finished, wash out your brushes with water, rubb the excess water off on a paper towel, then store the brushes HAIRS UP and let dry naturally.
This technique works well if you use your brushes regularly. There is a tip on storing your brushes long term, but I need to double check before I post it here (do not want to mix up tips for oil paint with acrylics - both media are very different in nature and application, and both require different techniques to ensure longevity of your brushes).
Hope this helps
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in Amati 1:64 HMS Victory - LATEST NEWS
Might be helpful to have a link in this blog, since as a follower I am getting notifications for this thread, which helps me manage my time a bit better.
And a HATE missing out on the beginning of hte build blog.....
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Are these made out of card stock, or wood?
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Hi Doris,
as has been said before, amazing work.
Also, Thank You very much for this tutorial, I am sure I will be looking at it again when I do similar work on my models.
Slainte ghu mhath
L.H.
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
Featibul
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from FrankWouts in La Belle 1684 by Nenseth - 1:36 scale
Try these. Have not bought from them yet, but the feedback I managed to find seeme generally positive.
https://www.arkowood-lossburg.de/shop/brettchen/buchsbaum-brettchen-50-x-500-mm/
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from catopower in Royal Caroline by Messis - FINISHED - Panart - 1/48
you should go into politics .....
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Mechanical Solar System Build Log
Are you certain you used the right gears?
When I compare all pictures it appears to me you have the Mercury gears working fine, but there is a discrepancy with the Venus gear - in the instructions the gear-pair on the Venus stage appear to be of similar size, while yours appear to be very different.
Before the lockdown I worked with a group of people on the Hachette Victory, and in that project one had to be very careful, as very often the wood for two or 3 teps further would be delivered with one issue. For instance, you were provided with kit parts in issue G, but when carfully looking at the instructions you need part of the wood provided with G, but also some provided with D and some wood would be left for a step discussed in issue P.
Did I confuse you? So were we at first...
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Landrotten Highlander got a reaction from thibaultron in New monograph : L'Egyptienne French 24prd frigate 1799
order placed, looking forward to receiving a copy
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Hello again,
did anybody know how deep the steps at the side of the ship where?
When I calculate with 25 cm, they must be 5,2 mm deep. But at the models they look smaller.
The gun port lids to the right would be 18 mm high and 2 mm thick. Then the steps would be only circa 4 mm/20 cm deep
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Hello and many thanks for your likes and comments
now the last scrolls are done 😅
You may also notice, that I painted the underwater ship new. The dark areas in the pictures are shadows and noise. So don't worry, it's now mostly white with only a little weathering at the hull and a dirt ring around the ship where is normally the water surface. But at the pictures it looks really dark 😕
The next things to do are the steps
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to bolin in Medieval longship by bolin - FINISHED - 1:30 - based on reconstruction Helga Holm
The keelson of walnut turned out well, so I proceeded as planned.
Note the peg and the wear on the underside of the keelson.
The groves are from the halyard which is led under the keelson and belayed with support of the peg. Every time the yard is raised or lowered the rope eats away at the wood.
I have also installed the first cross beam and tested the mast in place.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Ondras71 in Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
Thank you for like!
Channels glued..
I created reinforcing knees. System ala marsalv...😇
The elbows will be reinforced with 0.5 mm pins. Finally wax..
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Bedford in Royal Caroline by Bedford - Panart - 1/48
I've got the rudder hung now, not real happy with the chains hanging below waterline but that's where the plans put it.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
In the meantime I have finished the mizzen topmast shrouds.
I have made the preparations for the mizzen topmast backstays. The implementation will take place soon.
Here I show how to determine the diameter of a rope relatively accurately (13,6,41 mm / 20 = 0,67 mm).
The picture shows a dead eye with a diameter of 2.8 mm for the tackle to be attached to the mizzen topmast backstays on the channels.
You can also see a rope with a diameter of 0.67 mm for the mizzen topmast backstays.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to bolin in Medieval longship by bolin - FINISHED - 1:30 - based on reconstruction Helga Holm
Thanks Silverman
I have started to work on the keelson. Only a small 1.45 m fragment is preserved in the find, so the reconstruction used comparative material from other sites, for example the viking ships from Skuldelev in Denmark.
The reconstruction work came to the conclusion that the keelson was made from several parts. There is no indication of how long, but the ship builder advised to make it quite long to improve the lengthwise strength. Now it goes all the way between the third and fifteenth frame.
The hole in the preserved piece shows that the keelson was fastened to the frames using tree nails. An alternative method is shown in the Incredible Hulc by @woodrat. According to the reconstruction report, the tree nail method was more common during the medieval times and in the Baltic, than the side support methods which was more "west-scandinavian".
At the moment I'm building the keelson from strip wood, but am tempted to use a piece of natural wood as woodrat has done.
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Landrotten Highlander reacted to Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Hello,
Dowmer, here is the second and last lesson: how to carve scrolls 😉
The left is ready and the other prepared for finial carving
And here they are build in. The varnish and glue are not already dry, so I have to correct may be this and that tomorrow.
If you look at the yellow part of the hull, it's fascinating how much of the planking you could see, even when there are now 4 layers of paint on it.
Our Emblem ®
