newbuilder101

The brick platform for the stove has been completed.
 
I decided to create a base for the (individual) bricks inside the coaming.  The base is 1/32" balsa sheet, painted grey:
 

 

 
3/32 x 1/32" planks were then painted two colors and cut into 'bricks' as seen below:
 

 
The ends of the faux bricks were touched up and then laid individually:
 

 
It's not perfect,  but I'm pleased.  About 60% of the platform will be covered by the stove itself.
 
Next on the agenda is the checkerboard floor for the Great Cabin....as per Ben's 'suggestion'.  Though this may require Divine Intervention, I'll give it a shot.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well here we go again.... another UPDATE!!!!....... I think I left off showing the first two planks being set, I've made some progress since then,
the first band is finished, port and starboard.  Before I started to do the planking I had ordered some basswood sheets from National Balsa.
While waiting for it to come in,I found  a  sheet of basswood that I had purchased from Michael's. ( 1/16thx 3 x24 ), so I thought I'd get a little head start before my  main supply came in. Well my supply came in and I started up again, I had finished 3 rows before I notice that National
Balsa's 1/16th  and Michael's 1/16th were a little off, just enough to p--- you off, so out came the alcohol, the removal was easy enough, I'm glad I did it, it looks better ( to me) I think once the planking is finished and the hull is sanded some, It should look OK . Another nice thing about spiling is that there 's not much room for fillers. I've been beveling one side of each plank that butts up to the previous one so they get a nice tight fit. Following are some pictures of the progress. By the way I highly recommend the spiling method for planking. I don't know what took me so long to try it...... FEAR!!!! :D
 
 
 
 
this is the second plank being fit on the first strake
 

 
 
you could never get this shape by just bending
 

 
the following just show planking to the end of the first band
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Well that's it for now folks..... Thanks for look'n in
 
Frank
 
 

Since few months, I saw that it is possible to order photos regrouped in a catalog. The last one I saw is at our local pharmacy. I tried 8.5 X11 inches, hard cover, 26 pages full size photos, for less than $40.

Okay, so here's the photos that I didn't get to take last night.   I'm still experimenting with the photography, but the pics seem to be getting better. 
 
First up, I made a "handle" from copper wire and looped it through the gunwales to provide a handhold while painting.  It also served as a holding post for the vice while the paint dried:
 

 

 
Here is the current state of play with painting.  Probably just one or two clear coats of Dull Cote for protection now:
 

 

 
Meanwhile, progress with the Cutters (well, one of them anyway):
 
Here's the keel:
 

 
And with frames placed in the building board and frame "plugs" inserted (as per the Launch):
 

 
And without the Plug:
 

 

 
Finally, here's a couple of shots of both the Pinnace and Cutter Plugs for comparison.  They are really quite different hull forms:
 

 

 
The Admiral is giving me "the look" again, so that's it for now!!!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 71 – Lower Deck Standing/Ceiling Strakes
 
Work continued on the remaining lower deck waterways and standing strakes.  Filling planking was also begun at the bow.  The first picture shows planking being glued on both sides – with the aid of clamps and wedges.
 

 
The second picture shows the horizontal bolts – two per frame – through the standing strake and the frames.  The standing strake is the thick member atop the waterway.
 

 
These are monofilament.  Through holes were drilled from the inside with a right angle drill.  Those through the waterway below are functional copper wire bolts with epoxy as discussed earlier.  They have not yeyt been blackened. 
 
The next picture shows further progress with the forward planking.
 
 

 
All the filling planks on this deck are  6” thick. The picture also shows planking on the port side in progress.  The glued plank is held by wedges in this case.  The next picture taken at the same time shows the space left open for the view port.
 

 
The X-marked frames will be cut out later.  Small pieces of waterway have been installed on the frames that will be left.  these will be planked up so that hanging knees can be installed on the beams at these locations,   All the small pieces will be trimmed back to the frame faces as shown at the forward end of the opening.
 
The next picture shows all the planks installed on the forward port side.
 

 
Fastenings need to be installed on all this planking – bolts for the heavy structural members and treenails for the ordinary ceiling planks. 
 
In the next picture the middle deck clamps near the stem have been dubbed off and are being checked with the ruler.
 

 
This will allow the middle deck hook to be fitted.  The will also be a breast hook between the two decks.
 
 
 Ed

I've been away from my log way to long, vacation, sickness and other projects kept me away from my Kingfisher. Time for an update, although a little off topic. I wasn't very pleased with the storage space I made under my workbench so it was time for a big upgrade. More drawers and a sliding platform to keep the power tools within practical reach. Always nice to do a full size project. Here's before, during and after.
 

 

 

 

 
Stay tuned for updates on the KF
 
Remco
 
 

Augie: I forgot what you said about the cannons, since I`m still taking in the wonderful sound of ``young lady``!    

well folks......this was a very interesting couple of days.   I got a good head start on these boats.  the one thing I noticed,  is that there is no real curve to the gunwale {cap rails},  so i really don't need any type of jig to make the frame.   to do the scratch built one,  I will use the gunwale {cap rails].....I traced out the keel,  and cemented it on it.   I checked the gunwale to the diagram and found that it's the same size.
 

 
no pictures of the tracings...I'm afraid,   I was too far under the spell
 

 
in punching the parts out of the block,  I saw that they are too thick
 

 
so,  with the other parts block,  I thought to cut it in half.   it worked OK for the most part,  a chunk did break out of the halves........but the pieces can be glued back on
 

 
I did it with the scroll saw......I went out there and located the broken piece.  I was able to do this using the jig,  that I made to cut the Annegre.  made the perfect guide   the transom halves were made by tracing the stern of the plastic boat.......after cementing them in place,  I saw that they were too big and later trimmed them down.
 

 
punching out the 'adjusted' ribs......these look much better
 

 
some of the cast off wood was used to make the stern rabbits.....the first pair of ribs were cemented in place.  I made up a jig to measure out where the ribs were to go.
 

 
....and then the second pair
 

 
for the third and fourth pairs of ribs,  the larger ones will be needed.   to be sure that the widest part of the hull is achieved,  these ribs will be reversed,  to use the long end to the best advantage.
 

 
 

since I got a head start on the scratch built boat,  I thought I'd get started on the plastic one.    I got an idea to compare this boat with the one from the trawler build.   there is a slight difference at the bow stem, but otherwise,  the two look very close.
 

 

 
a small impression at the skeg,  is the only difference .   the third pair of ribs were added to the scratch build.
 

 

 
the fourth pair were set up......being careful that both sides are done the same way
 

 
planking the plastic boat was just as I remembered it................there were times where my fingers were fused to the boat.........but I sanded it as I went along,  so you'd never know it  
 

 
the last ribs were added to the scratch built one.......adding an extra one to control the planking's turn at the bow.
 

 

 
time to finish up on the planking........and then plank the other plastic boat,  while I was at it.   how many other ship's boats are going to come out of the closet?
 

 
soon........both plastic boats were done
 

 

 
the scratch built one was removed from the jig.  it needs to be fared now......I need to see if I have any more of that thin planking.   I want to use basswood......but I might use the Annegre
 

 
I also tried to cut the wider ribs in half........this met with limited results.   I can still cement the pieces back together,   once I figure out which ones go where ?!?!
 

..Thank you all for the comments and likes, as always they are appreciated and very motivating..
 
As I went along with the carvings they became a bit more “challenging” and the ornaments are certainly not replicas of the original.   The techniques i used are similar to what I have described before. Down below a few pictures to illustrate the progress.  

 

 

 

 

 
.. Dry fit .. 
 

 
in a closeup you will notice that "Abachi" might be a bit too grainy for this job.  
 

 
.. Anyway.. I can live with the end result.. 

Thank-you everyone for taking the time to help!
 
Bob: I haven't totally ruled out metal yet. If my next few tries with resin don't work, then that may be next.
 
Steve: I did paint both sides of the mold first, but will try "CPR" on it next time. Goodness knows they certainly need resuscitation! 
I've made a couple of 2 barrel molds, and the setup time is about 8-10 minutes.
 
Ed: I am seriously considering metal as an alternative, but would like to give the resin another couple of tries using the advice given. 
I've included a few photos of my molds and some of the rejected barrels. 
 
The barrels look better in the photos than they really are, at least they don't look good to me. 
 
 

Another small update.....
 
New additions include the vertical strips of wood on the hull mid-ship. I'm not sure of the name or function of these timbers, but I'm wondering if they could be for protection of the hull when the lowering of the ship's boats? 
 
Also added are more ornamentation pieces, such as the eagles and the piece at the top of the gallery door.
Now to make these same pieces for the port side.
 

 

 

Hi Sherry,
 
Just found this thread via your San Felipe log. I'm afraid I can add precisely nothing to the knowledge base here, but I'm fascinated by the process and will follow your learning journey with great interest. Good luck!

Sherry,
 
I would take vents up both sides of each barrel and add vent passages from the ends of the trunnions into those. In looking at a closeup of your casting, it appears you may have some mold alignment problems as well. If you used vaseline in the mold before pouring the resin, that may account for the incomplete filling. These are all common molding problems. Again, I think you may find lo-temp metal to be easier t0 work with.
 
Good luck. Casting is a journey.
 
Ed

Sherry, like Ed mentioned, adding a vent will greatly improve your results. I see your mold lacks one now, you can just cut one with a knife. 
 
Remco

Augie: I forgot what you said about the cannons, since I`m still taking in the wonderful sound of ``young lady``!    

Augie: I forgot what you said about the cannons, since I`m still taking in the wonderful sound of ``young lady``!    

Thank-you everyone for taking the time to help!
 
Bob: I haven't totally ruled out metal yet. If my next few tries with resin don't work, then that may be next.
 
Steve: I did paint both sides of the mold first, but will try "CPR" on it next time. Goodness knows they certainly need resuscitation! 
I've made a couple of 2 barrel molds, and the setup time is about 8-10 minutes.
 
Ed: I am seriously considering metal as an alternative, but would like to give the resin another couple of tries using the advice given. 
I've included a few photos of my molds and some of the rejected barrels. 
 
The barrels look better in the photos than they really are, at least they don't look good to me. 
 
 

I'd say also leave off the trunnions as well, just mould a little dimple as a drill start point. They're easy enough to make with wire afterwards.
 
Andy

Just a thought, what about casting the canon barrels as halves in a flat open mould, and then gluing them together?
 
Andy

Hello Sherry,Just brilliant work,you can be very proud.Edwin

Augie: I forgot what you said about the cannons, since I`m still taking in the wonderful sound of ``young lady``!    

Finally a bit of an update!
First photo shows some shaped pieces at the bow. In my eagerness to finish and install these and the fancy trim overlay, I forgot to take pictures and these pieces are virtually hidden now!
 

 
Next up were the catheads and trim, made from basswood square stock.
 

 
I used copper sheet to cut strips and fashion the brackets that hold the catheads down.
 

 

 

 
Everything is assembled.
 

 
Then installed on the model. I used copper wire to simulate bolts.
 

 
Here's a bow shot with catheads installed and bow braces and trim pieces.
 

 
This picture shows the copper brackets blackened with liver of sulphur. I used EdT's method of soaking them in acetone first, to clean and remove any coating that may have been present. Then I dipped a small paint brush in dilute liver of sulphur and applied to the brackets in situ, followed by a water rinse - it worked like a charm!
 

 
Just a slightly different angle.
 

 
That's it for now.

Augie: I forgot what you said about the cannons, since I`m still taking in the wonderful sound of ``young lady``!    

Augie: I forgot what you said about the cannons, since I`m still taking in the wonderful sound of ``young lady``!