sonicmcdude

continuation...
 
Deck nails imitation made as well using brass wire but in this case 0,5mm...
 
...becouse I broke few drills I said stop... and I made drill from... brass wire with sharp end... worked brilliant


 

 

 

 

 

 
...some overview of decks
 

 

 
...nothing special, just walls
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...after all I started bulkheads, keel, sternpost, steam and finally planking...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...meanwhile some ladders...
 

 

 
...and planking of course pear wood. Bow planking calibrate to avoid stealers. I formed planks using only water and 36,6 deree celsius from my hands. Pear lath if was cut properly it'll be very flexible Imitation of taring on the edge of each lath was made using soft pencil.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hello friends,
new pictures of the BHR.
Karl
 
 
T e i l    5 5

Hi Guys,
 
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper and came up with an update, just to let you know I haven't fallen of the planet.
 
All the frames are now glued onto the keel and that showed my first problem, not all the frames fitted the jig fully, a few were as much as 2mm in from the outside of the jig, this presented a problem when it came down to sanding the inside of the frames, they need to be tight so there is no rocking when sanding.
 
The problem was solved by using Spanions method which is to place elastic bands around each frame and fix to a point of your choosing, this holds the frames tight to the jig edge. I chose to drill the jig from the top and place round head pins in, the bands were then pulled tight around the pins, great,   until you don't pick the jig up by the sides, I now have nicely punctured finger tips.   
 
I glued the first 8 frames and when the glued had dried they were sanded down, I have one frame which is a little out of line and it was a case of either cut the Futtock Rider to fit or make up a new frame, I tried adjusting the Rider which worked well so that worked out ok. Once the first 8 frames were sanded I then fitted the final 4 frames and fared them down. There is a small rise in frames 9 to12 and they have to be sanded at a slightly different angle.
 
With the inside completed I turned my attention to the outside, first job was to mark the height, frames D1 TO 4 ( 9 frames ) are level and flat, frames 5 to 12 are sloped with frame 12 being the highest. There is still a fair bit of movement in the frames which needs to be reduced to virtually nothing, this was achieved by placing 2.5mm blocks between each frame at a point above the water line where the hull planking will cover them up, the tops of the frames were also blocked at this time, this also served to strengthen some of the weaker frames.
 
Next up was the Gunport Sills, Sweep Sills and Filling Lintels, more problems, these were down to my c--p joinery skills and not the drawing's. If I put the sills in place without any work they would end up looking like a mountain range, so measurements and levels were taken and out came the sanding sticks and files which were applied to the Port side. The Sills were the first to receive the treatment with new levels being made, most of the notches which had been pre-cut were sanded back, so with all the mistakes removed the Sills and Linings were added to the Gunports and Sweep Sills, The Filling Lintels were next to be attacked, as it happens they turned out to be quite easy to make and so in they went. A little more sanding and an acceptable finish was reached bearing in mind that this work will all be covered with planking. The Portside took 3 days to repair so I have the same to look forward to on the Starboard side.
 
Whilst waiting for glue to dry and the need to change tasks I made the following, Keelson, Mortar Pit Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ) and the Upper Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ). I also cut out on the scroll saw the Futtock and Floor riders, these are not finished yet because they will require fitting individually.
 
At this point I want to thank Grant for keeping me on the right track regarding the timber, I got a little confused with what timber to use and so consulted my mentor, things were explained and backsides kicked, thanks mate. At this point mate I decided to keep you on.     
 
I should imagine your about ready for some pics, if your not suicidal by now. 
 
Portside clamped up waiting for the glue to dry on the blocks

 
Just a few more clamps on the Starboard side.

 
This is Spanions method of holding the frames.

 
Profile of the frames prior to sanding down.

 
You can see the nature of my problem.

 
The finished Portside, bearing in mind it is to be planked over.

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date. Next job is to finish the Starboard side, fit the Keelson and work on the Futtock and Floor riders.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Thank you for sharing this beautiful piece of art... the detail is like on the real ship !!! wow

continuation
продолжение

decided to make a new box in the old chisels are no longer fit and not very useful on a small table, a new will hang on the wall
 
решил сделать новый ящик для стамесок  в старый  уже не помещаются да и не очень удобен на маленьком столе, новый будет висеть на стене 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 104 – Planking and Wales continued
 
In the first picture the model has be uprighted and plumbed so the load waterline could be marked.
 

 
I needed to do this to set the extent of planking on each side.  The wood block is my gauge. 
 
This was also a good opportunity to mark out and bore the holes for the cabin lights as shown in the next photo.
 

 
The inboard finish planking was also installed and bored out.  I will show this later.  Brass tubes through to the interior will be added later.  The next picture shows the five openings on the starboard side.
 

 
Planking has progressed downward in this picture – below the bottom of the wale – but there is still more to be added. In the next picture the hull has again been inverted to complete the planking.
 

 
In this picture the aft planking is being stepped back with two strakes at each step on the starboard side.   This will permit several strakes of brass sheathing – each two planks wide to be wide to be installed later.  The sheathing band will extend to the edge of the lowest planks.  The top strake of sheathing will be on the waterline, with the strakes below parallel to the run of the planks and gored into the top strake.
 
On the port side there will be no sheathing and the planking will end higher to leave the framing exposed. 
 

 
This planking is stepped back higher up as shown again roughly parallel to the LWL – in single strake steps on this side.  Some planking is needed on this side so the deadeye chains can be fixed and also to provide a nicer view of the finished stern – at least from the starboard quarter.
 
In the next picture the hull has been uprighted again.
 

 
The planking of the starboard side shown is complete. The strakes below the 20 wale strakes diminish down from the wale thickness of 6” to the 4” thickness of the common bottom plank.  This transition is barely perceptible.  The top of the sheathing line can just be made out in this picture. 
 
I can’t explain why, but seeing this expanse of planking makes one realize just how large this ship was.  This was not as pronounced when the hull was in frame.
  
Ed

Well, dear friends, I have finished tops on the masts ( made of card and wood) and now I am going to continue with rigging on Royal Caroline. I have unfortunately less free time for hobbies ( because I have a new and very responsible job as a sales director in a company selling cosmetics), but I would like to continue and make models for relaxation.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Awesome job you did on the handle and miter box!

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

A few days ago I bought a Excel razor saw but not wanting to pay the outrageous price for the handle and miter box I decided to make my own and this is how they turned out.
 



 
I probably should have used a better piece of wood for the miter box but my angles are precise which is what counts. For the handle I was shooting for comfort rather than appearance but I managed to get both.
 
Lextin.

http://modelmakinist.blogspot.com.tr/ for details...

The first TRY of assembling one of the 6 tools:







 

the thicknesser is complaining.
 
today I prepare the first frame, mounting it on the keel, to try to make the hawse. that in the plane cuts measures to engage in the keel, are perfect. I have not had to rectify anything.

Hi Christian,
 
I have looked again at the drawings and have come to the same conclusion as before, there is a definite rise in the keel rabbet.
 
I have taken a few pictures which hopefully will show you this rise.
 
This is the whole Page                                                     
 
 
The section with the rise is shown in the black box

 
No1 is the keel and shows the end profile of the rabbet

 
I hope Christian that you can now see that I have followed the drawings correctly. I can see where your coming from and it does look as though there is a difference, but as I'm building from the drawings I have to go with that.
 
Hope that helps mate.
 
I forgot to mention earlier that with Grants help and generosity I will be posting an update of my first complete double frame.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Joe,
 
I must apologise for any confusion, I am building the cross section, the heading needs to be changed to reflect that.
 
The plans came from model ship builders, here is a link http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?135
 
They really are a good set of drawings.
 
With regard to the frames, they are cut out from the timber billets, I will post a couple of pics to show you.
 
 
 

 
Best way to go is to copy the original page onto sticky A4 labels, these are then cut and placed onto the wood, a tip gleamed from Grant is to put painters tape on the wood first.
 
Cut out the frame sections and sand down to just above the lines, position the sections onto the main label, clean up the joints until a snug fit is obtained, when you are happy with the fit glue together using PVA white glue, when dry clean off excess glue and sand down to the lines.
 
Hope that makes sense Joe.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

First off let me say Hello to all the Lords of the Dark Side, your tolerance will be gratefully accepted.
 
I would like to give plaudits to Jeff Hayes of Hobbymills for superb quality materials, the timber really is first class, also to Jeff Staudt for a fine set of drawings.
 
A special thanks to Grant for all his hard work in working out the quantity of timber required and the different types, I just had to make some minor adjustments to the order. Below is a taster of the timber to be used.
 
 
 
As you are probably aware this is a group project build with Grant, Jack and myself, ( at the moment ), this the first scratch build for all of us apart from prefabricating kits parts that were not happy with and I think we've all done that.   
 
It would be great if others wanted to join in. We will be working in unison and posting in our own logs and this is the start of my log.
 
I started by practicing with my tools and would you believe it this framing jig appeared, as this was a practice piece and it didn't count towards the build but on investigation I found I hadn't got any more material I could use and so had to keep it.    
 
 
 
Following on from the jig, I started practicing on the frames themselves and I found out a few things I need to work on, 1st, Don't cut so close to the lines, give your self a bit of room. 2nd, Easy on the sanders, don't put so much pressure when sanding down and 3rd, It doesn't take much to remove the skin from the knuckles with a disc sander, this had been switched of and was slowing down, I helped it stop and found out how good my bandaids are.
 
I made a double frame but will not be using it, I can and will do better.
 
 
 
 
 
Following on from that I attempted the Keel, this is made up from 4 pieces, Ebony for the Keel, followed by Swiss Pear for the False Keel Upper and Lower and the Hog. This Keel looks difficult but in reality is quite simple, you just need to be accurate, a rabbet is cut into it when all the pieces are assembled. I was going to use my router for this but there is a deviation 2/3rds along it's length so this had to be cut by hand, I used my trusty Stanley knife carefully, (we have a history) and finished with a triangle file. Below is the completed practice keel
 
 
 
So, that's the start of my new log, if anyone has any questions please don't be afraid to ask Grant !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 

hi all
progress has been made.....gun deck construction is under way.
 
i even remembered to take some photos!
 
here they are, warts an all.
 
cheers.........mick
 
 
some of those joints could do with being tighter methinks!

Hello, the next step is done and the Main Wale is fitted.
I had I little mistake nearing completion. The following photo should be a little help to declare it.

For fitting the last ledge of the Main Wale it was necessary to sanding the outside of the side counter timber at starboard side (blue arrow). But there wasn't enough material, the part was to small at this point (yellow x) . I had to many material removed at the inner side (red arrow).
The exchange of the part seems like too much effort to me. So I decided to glue a piece of wood to the counter and sanded it down. I believe that must be alright on the finished model.



 
And now some photos of the Main Wale. It's still to do a bit sanding on the port side.

 
 

I do not understand why, but one side of the hawseholes were not similar to the other. I had wrong measured, that's absolutely certain for me because I have made one side some day's earlier than the other. Here's a pic there you can see the variety of height.
 

 
The level of the holes at the starboard side is correct. So I closed the holes at the portside and drilled new ones as the same level as of the starboard side.
 

If I fit the transoms I had a big trouble. The reason was a wrong angle at the top-view plan.
On the following photo you can see the correct angle and the discrepancy.

 
If I know that it was possible to fit transoms.







 

One further addition to the building jig before moving on.  I added some keel retaining strips and stuck on copies of the frame position indicators for good measure.
    The Keel Assembly   The keel assembly is comprised of four components: Keel, False Keel (Upper), False Keel (Lower) and Hog.  The False Keel (Lower) is made from 1/16” thick Ebony, while the remaining pieces are all Swiss Pear. All components are 1/4” thick.
 
The Hog needs to be cut with a series of steps and notches.  Both side and top views are provided in the drawings, so I printed these onto sticky label paper to use as templates and then cut the profile using a 1/4” end mill cutter in my Sherline Mill.  This was the perfect size for the width of the notches.  I was quite pleased with the results.
 

 
And here are the four pieces ready for assembly:
 

 
After assembling the four components, I ran them through the thickness sander with a very light pass just to ensure everything was nice and even.
 

 
The next job was to cut the rabbet, and this is where I ran into the first major hitch.    
 
The rabbet is straight, parallel to the keel for about 2/3 of it’s length, where it changes angle slightly and sweeps up moving aft. I cut the rabbet by hand using a very nice V-chisel.  The first cut was a very, very light one and the wood peeled off beautifully.  Unfortunately, this may have lulled me into a false sense of security, as I may have been a little over-zealous in the end. From this angle it doesn’t look too bad.
 

 
I might have accepted this ‘as is’, until I looked closely at the second side……
You can see here that I managed to induce quite a wave into the angle part.     
 

 
It’s back to chisel school for me I’m afraid!   
 
I thought about this for a while and then decided to try a different approach.  Enter the “Secret Weapon” 
 

 
This is 90º V-Groove Router bit with a 1/4” shaft. It fits nicely into a collet on the Sherline Mill.
 
Here is the set-up I used on the mill.
 

 
And here is the result:
 

 
I’m much happier with this!   
 
The keel assembly was trimmed to length and is now ready for use.  Next up, we start playing with frames.  Oh goodie - more toys to use!       
 
 
 

Not Really Kurt
 
There are a few magazine articles,  the Peterson book on Rigging,  A few other books may have a nugget or two, but thats it.  Its pretty much spread all over the place.  You really cant count on the AOTS book for Alert.  Its much earlier than Cheerful.  The cutter didnt change all that much but there are still vast differences in some areas.   Its also has a few errors in it which have been discussed to death.  The windlass is one of them.
 
Luckily there are quite a few contemporary models of cutters out there.  There are also tons of plans for cutters on the NMM site.  AND the Cheerful plans are excellent in every respect. Very detailed which is why I chose it.
 
I pent the day planking.  Got the first belt done ob the starboard side.  It went quickly.  Only eight planks.   The starboard side is now half planked.  I must complete the square tuck on the starboard side next before I can plank the lower belt.  Luckily because its a POB design and NOT a fully framed model,  I dont have to follow actual practice for building the square tuck.   So based on my design I can do one half of the tuck at a time.  I am eager to get it done to see how it will work out.
 
Once the square tuck is done then I will plank the remaining 10 strakes in the lower belt....then I must repeat the process on the other side.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks all.
 
Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.
 
Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 
 
Here they are temporary fitted
 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it
I'm not sure how that happened......
 
Remco
 
 

Thanks guys...
 
Druxey...Like you, I thought that was true.   Holes on every other face of the windlass.  However,  I kept seeing more and more of these that showed them on all sides.  I may switch it later...but I am torn.  Do you have have any info on these that would clarify.  Other than contemporary models....few even show the holes at all,  I could only find secondary sources.  For example,  The AOS for the Cutter Alert has an almost identical windlass with holes on all eight faces of the windless.   Go figure.  Its easy enough to change,  just need to find something definitive.  Any help would be appreciated.
 
You can see that Roger Cole also added the holes on every face of his windlass on his model of Alert below.
 

 
Chuck