Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from Saburo in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels
Chuck,
I may have missed it, but what scale/size are your carvings?
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from Canute in Covering up CA
Depending on where on the rigging you need to fix...whether you can reach it reasonably well...you might try swabbing the offending area with acetone on a small brush or piece of tissue held in a tweezer (this time be careful...both with the application and the ventilation). The area treated should dry fairly flat. You can also wipe that area while wet with cloth or tissue to leave a flat finish,
I know,,,I can hear the screams now "Acetone is dangerous" and so forth. It certainly is but it CAN be used with care. I find it dissolves CA quite quickly for cleaning CA bottle nozzles, etc.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from thibaultron in Covering up CA
Depending on where on the rigging you need to fix...whether you can reach it reasonably well...you might try swabbing the offending area with acetone on a small brush or piece of tissue held in a tweezer (this time be careful...both with the application and the ventilation). The area treated should dry fairly flat. You can also wipe that area while wet with cloth or tissue to leave a flat finish,
I know,,,I can hear the screams now "Acetone is dangerous" and so forth. It certainly is but it CAN be used with care. I find it dissolves CA quite quickly for cleaning CA bottle nozzles, etc.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from Keith Black in Covering up CA
Depending on where on the rigging you need to fix...whether you can reach it reasonably well...you might try swabbing the offending area with acetone on a small brush or piece of tissue held in a tweezer (this time be careful...both with the application and the ventilation). The area treated should dry fairly flat. You can also wipe that area while wet with cloth or tissue to leave a flat finish,
I know,,,I can hear the screams now "Acetone is dangerous" and so forth. It certainly is but it CAN be used with care. I find it dissolves CA quite quickly for cleaning CA bottle nozzles, etc.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from allanyed in Covering up CA
Depending on where on the rigging you need to fix...whether you can reach it reasonably well...you might try swabbing the offending area with acetone on a small brush or piece of tissue held in a tweezer (this time be careful...both with the application and the ventilation). The area treated should dry fairly flat. You can also wipe that area while wet with cloth or tissue to leave a flat finish,
I know,,,I can hear the screams now "Acetone is dangerous" and so forth. It certainly is but it CAN be used with care. I find it dissolves CA quite quickly for cleaning CA bottle nozzles, etc.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from glbarlow in Covering up CA
Depending on where on the rigging you need to fix...whether you can reach it reasonably well...you might try swabbing the offending area with acetone on a small brush or piece of tissue held in a tweezer (this time be careful...both with the application and the ventilation). The area treated should dry fairly flat. You can also wipe that area while wet with cloth or tissue to leave a flat finish,
I know,,,I can hear the screams now "Acetone is dangerous" and so forth. It certainly is but it CAN be used with care. I find it dissolves CA quite quickly for cleaning CA bottle nozzles, etc.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from mtaylor in Covering up CA
Depending on where on the rigging you need to fix...whether you can reach it reasonably well...you might try swabbing the offending area with acetone on a small brush or piece of tissue held in a tweezer (this time be careful...both with the application and the ventilation). The area treated should dry fairly flat. You can also wipe that area while wet with cloth or tissue to leave a flat finish,
I know,,,I can hear the screams now "Acetone is dangerous" and so forth. It certainly is but it CAN be used with care. I find it dissolves CA quite quickly for cleaning CA bottle nozzles, etc.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from Canute in Sandpaper
I use sandpaper glued to a backing for much of my shaping of small parts which does not work out with knives or saws. (However they do make less of a mess, as does scraping.) I have all sizes from flat sticks an inch by a quarter inch by a foot long to small ones a half inch by an eighth, and dowels sized to the curve they're to work on.
I've never found a need for fancy glues to fix the sandpaper...I just use Elmer's Glue Pen, very water soluble and easy to use. Ir's like the old mucilage from grade school, sticky tan like honey. It comes in an applicator container and keeps forever,
It dries in a half hour or so, new paper can be applied right over the old for some time and peeled off by wetting the stick.
I've found that by using a backing stick much longer than the work, the sanding work results are more parallel to the worktable.
.
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Chazz got a reaction from Justin P. in Sandpaper
I use sandpaper glued to a backing for much of my shaping of small parts which does not work out with knives or saws. (However they do make less of a mess, as does scraping.) I have all sizes from flat sticks an inch by a quarter inch by a foot long to small ones a half inch by an eighth, and dowels sized to the curve they're to work on.
I've never found a need for fancy glues to fix the sandpaper...I just use Elmer's Glue Pen, very water soluble and easy to use. Ir's like the old mucilage from grade school, sticky tan like honey. It comes in an applicator container and keeps forever,
It dries in a half hour or so, new paper can be applied right over the old for some time and peeled off by wetting the stick.
I've found that by using a backing stick much longer than the work, the sanding work results are more parallel to the worktable.
.
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Chazz got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Sandpaper
I use sandpaper glued to a backing for much of my shaping of small parts which does not work out with knives or saws. (However they do make less of a mess, as does scraping.) I have all sizes from flat sticks an inch by a quarter inch by a foot long to small ones a half inch by an eighth, and dowels sized to the curve they're to work on.
I've never found a need for fancy glues to fix the sandpaper...I just use Elmer's Glue Pen, very water soluble and easy to use. Ir's like the old mucilage from grade school, sticky tan like honey. It comes in an applicator container and keeps forever,
It dries in a half hour or so, new paper can be applied right over the old for some time and peeled off by wetting the stick.
I've found that by using a backing stick much longer than the work, the sanding work results are more parallel to the worktable.
.
-
Chazz got a reaction from mtaylor in Sandpaper
I use sandpaper glued to a backing for much of my shaping of small parts which does not work out with knives or saws. (However they do make less of a mess, as does scraping.) I have all sizes from flat sticks an inch by a quarter inch by a foot long to small ones a half inch by an eighth, and dowels sized to the curve they're to work on.
I've never found a need for fancy glues to fix the sandpaper...I just use Elmer's Glue Pen, very water soluble and easy to use. Ir's like the old mucilage from grade school, sticky tan like honey. It comes in an applicator container and keeps forever,
It dries in a half hour or so, new paper can be applied right over the old for some time and peeled off by wetting the stick.
I've found that by using a backing stick much longer than the work, the sanding work results are more parallel to the worktable.
.
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Chazz got a reaction from davyboy in Small pieces of Boxwood
Just an interesting possibility:
Before I moved to Asheville (where Holly bushes/trees grow wild in many places) I lived in Stamford Ct northeast of New York city. My neighbors had LARGE boxwood bushes in their backyard..8 - 12 ft, high. The trunks were only 6" - 8" ion diameter but there were branches 2" - 3" thick.=, some of which were pruned off now and then. I got one piece from them of about 2 1/2" inches in diameter and about 3 feet long which seems to me to contain great wood for modelling, though my building has pretty much stopped and I haven't used much of it.
My point is that there may be sources in your area which can provide resources often overlooked.
I don't know whether or not this is true boxwood.The wood is yellowish not white, but the hardness and grain is great.
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Chazz got a reaction from thibaultron in Small pieces of Boxwood
Just an interesting possibility:
Before I moved to Asheville (where Holly bushes/trees grow wild in many places) I lived in Stamford Ct northeast of New York city. My neighbors had LARGE boxwood bushes in their backyard..8 - 12 ft, high. The trunks were only 6" - 8" ion diameter but there were branches 2" - 3" thick.=, some of which were pruned off now and then. I got one piece from them of about 2 1/2" inches in diameter and about 3 feet long which seems to me to contain great wood for modelling, though my building has pretty much stopped and I haven't used much of it.
My point is that there may be sources in your area which can provide resources often overlooked.
I don't know whether or not this is true boxwood.The wood is yellowish not white, but the hardness and grain is great.
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Chazz got a reaction from mtaylor in Small pieces of Boxwood
Just an interesting possibility:
Before I moved to Asheville (where Holly bushes/trees grow wild in many places) I lived in Stamford Ct northeast of New York city. My neighbors had LARGE boxwood bushes in their backyard..8 - 12 ft, high. The trunks were only 6" - 8" ion diameter but there were branches 2" - 3" thick.=, some of which were pruned off now and then. I got one piece from them of about 2 1/2" inches in diameter and about 3 feet long which seems to me to contain great wood for modelling, though my building has pretty much stopped and I haven't used much of it.
My point is that there may be sources in your area which can provide resources often overlooked.
I don't know whether or not this is true boxwood.The wood is yellowish not white, but the hardness and grain is great.
-
Chazz got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Small pieces of Boxwood
Just an interesting possibility:
Before I moved to Asheville (where Holly bushes/trees grow wild in many places) I lived in Stamford Ct northeast of New York city. My neighbors had LARGE boxwood bushes in their backyard..8 - 12 ft, high. The trunks were only 6" - 8" ion diameter but there were branches 2" - 3" thick.=, some of which were pruned off now and then. I got one piece from them of about 2 1/2" inches in diameter and about 3 feet long which seems to me to contain great wood for modelling, though my building has pretty much stopped and I haven't used much of it.
My point is that there may be sources in your area which can provide resources often overlooked.
I don't know whether or not this is true boxwood.The wood is yellowish not white, but the hardness and grain is great.
-
Chazz got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Small pieces of Boxwood
Just an interesting possibility:
Before I moved to Asheville (where Holly bushes/trees grow wild in many places) I lived in Stamford Ct northeast of New York city. My neighbors had LARGE boxwood bushes in their backyard..8 - 12 ft, high. The trunks were only 6" - 8" ion diameter but there were branches 2" - 3" thick.=, some of which were pruned off now and then. I got one piece from them of about 2 1/2" inches in diameter and about 3 feet long which seems to me to contain great wood for modelling, though my building has pretty much stopped and I haven't used much of it.
My point is that there may be sources in your area which can provide resources often overlooked.
I don't know whether or not this is true boxwood.The wood is yellowish not white, but the hardness and grain is great.
-
Chazz got a reaction from Gregory in Small pieces of Boxwood
Just an interesting possibility:
Before I moved to Asheville (where Holly bushes/trees grow wild in many places) I lived in Stamford Ct northeast of New York city. My neighbors had LARGE boxwood bushes in their backyard..8 - 12 ft, high. The trunks were only 6" - 8" ion diameter but there were branches 2" - 3" thick.=, some of which were pruned off now and then. I got one piece from them of about 2 1/2" inches in diameter and about 3 feet long which seems to me to contain great wood for modelling, though my building has pretty much stopped and I haven't used much of it.
My point is that there may be sources in your area which can provide resources often overlooked.
I don't know whether or not this is true boxwood.The wood is yellowish not white, but the hardness and grain is great.
-
Chazz got a reaction from mtaylor in Miniature Drill Bit Chuck for Dremel Tool?
Richard,
I always had the same problem until I got a foot-pedal switch. Even when not essential to the task, it adds a lot of convenience, even safety. There are many different kinds, some with speed controls, some constant on, some on only while held down. Think about them, especially with bigger power tools.
CW
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Chazz got a reaction from Canute in Miniature Drill Bit Chuck for Dremel Tool?
Richard,
I always had the same problem until I got a foot-pedal switch. Even when not essential to the task, it adds a lot of convenience, even safety. There are many different kinds, some with speed controls, some constant on, some on only while held down. Think about them, especially with bigger power tools.
CW
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Chazz got a reaction from tkay11 in Miniature Drill Bit Chuck for Dremel Tool?
Richard,
I always had the same problem until I got a foot-pedal switch. Even when not essential to the task, it adds a lot of convenience, even safety. There are many different kinds, some with speed controls, some constant on, some on only while held down. Think about them, especially with bigger power tools.
CW
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Chazz got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
A good source of fine absolutely straight wire (if rather short pieces will work) is a wire brush. The wire is stiff but not so stiff as music wire and can be bent with needle nose pliers to a rather sharp bend. Good for railings, some jackstays, and other small fixtures.
To get the wire out of the brush, you'll probably have to cut the brush; the wires are usually anchored in their holes with staples.
Another source of straight wire, but softer and somewhat larger in diameter, is Christmas tree ornament hangers. They come in several diameters and colors.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from Keith Black in What would you recommend for a workbench for disabled person who can only sit??
I work in my house (not in a shed). I work at an office table/desk with a 4" deep drawer all across the front. I have found the drawer to be invaluable in working. If strong enough it offers a lower work surface when needed, it catches small objects that otherwise would fall, it offers a place to put small tools while working, you can put plans or other reference material in it while working on the material itself... Another matter I would check on is the capacity to clamp items such as lights and small vises to the top. Some tables don't have enough overhang for secure attachment.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from Canute in What would you recommend for a workbench for disabled person who can only sit??
I work in my house (not in a shed). I work at an office table/desk with a 4" deep drawer all across the front. I have found the drawer to be invaluable in working. If strong enough it offers a lower work surface when needed, it catches small objects that otherwise would fall, it offers a place to put small tools while working, you can put plans or other reference material in it while working on the material itself... Another matter I would check on is the capacity to clamp items such as lights and small vises to the top. Some tables don't have enough overhang for secure attachment.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from mtaylor in What would you recommend for a workbench for disabled person who can only sit??
I work in my house (not in a shed). I work at an office table/desk with a 4" deep drawer all across the front. I have found the drawer to be invaluable in working. If strong enough it offers a lower work surface when needed, it catches small objects that otherwise would fall, it offers a place to put small tools while working, you can put plans or other reference material in it while working on the material itself... Another matter I would check on is the capacity to clamp items such as lights and small vises to the top. Some tables don't have enough overhang for secure attachment.
Chazz
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Chazz got a reaction from grsjax in Using a moulding scraper tool?
Hi Al,
You're probably trying too hard. These tools are relatively slow workers but they can do a good job. These purchased tools per se, which I have never used (just file my own in some scrap from a tin can or old razor blade), are probably sharp enough but just make sure. Rub the flat side on a stone or some very fine wet or dry sandpaper if needed. Then hold the tool a a 45 deg or so angle and work slowly, not trying for too much of a cut at once.
Chazz
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