Krelis

I started making  Pen Duick a few years ago and I had long break. Now I am making the deck, and I will show
pictures from the beginning.

Pen Duick was named since 1935, is a cutter drawn in 1898 by William Fife III, famous naval architect, and built in Ireland under the name of Yum.
With an overall length of 15.1 m and 10 m to the floating for 2.9 m of maximum width, it supports 160 m2 of sails.

 Since 1938, Eric Tabarly sailed on the Penduick bought by his father. The Penduick was restored a first time in 1958, to reinforce the hull by a thickness of polyester, then was rebuilt completely between 1983 and 1989. The mast is raised 20%.
She remains one of the most beautiful classical sailing ships.


drawings:
 

 

 
differences between  Yum  & pen Duick:
 

 


Images of the ship:

 

 

 

 
Pen Duick sailing - (scan from the book)
 

 
The scale is 1:20
The hull is made of wood - plywood ribs, maple, coated with epoxy resin.
Deck is made of pear wood, more shades.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers, Matija.

Hello, all –
 
My name is Peter.  Dan is working in the shipyard so he asked me to give you a tour of the completed Swan 42.  As you can see, I brought with me the world’s largest dime for a bit of size comparison.  Since the last segment of this build log we have installed all of the various pieces and subassemblies that were created before, set up the mast, boom and rigging, and installed her on a custom made presentation base ready for delivery.
 

 
So let me show you around, from bow to stern and bottom to top.  Here she is, neatly balanced on her keel bulb.  You can see just how tall her rig is.  The laminated wood mast rises 62 scale feet from the deck, some 20 feet longer than the hull itself.  The spreaders which set up the shrouds are of different lengths and are set at different angles to the mast and to vertical.  They are cut from brass sheet, given a layer of epoxy and then faired to their aerodynamic shapes.  The standing rigging is 0.012” stainless steel beading wire, which is too small to see in this photo, but will show up later.
 

 
Here is a view of the entire deck.  If Dan did his job well there should be nothing that draws the eye and disrupts the overall impression of being aboard the actual boat.  He always says that it has to obey the Rule of 3 – it has to look good from across the room, with detail work that makes you want to see it much closer.  Then it has to look good from 3 feet away, like the point of view of this photo, with new and interesting details to see.  And then it has to look right from 6 inches away, with even more details that create the ‘texture’ of the actual boat.
 
  
 
Of course, the hull and deck have to be symmetrical, so we checked it repeatedly as the mast was being installed.  Here is how it came out, viewed from the middle distance.
 

 
Now let’s move in to the 6 inch viewpoint and look around.  At the bow is the pulpit.  Dan has explained how this is made from brass tubes that are assembled, soldered and electroplated in chrome.  Now it is installed with small feet at the end of each leg made from chrome foil.  The jibstay is made up from beading wire with a sleeve of insulation taken from black speaker wire.  The furling fittings at top and bottom are simply made up from a short piece of tubing and punched discs as caps.  The railing is 0.009” silver beading wire which is turned back on itself and seized with black fly tying thread. The lacing is also fly tying thread, which is looped over the top rail and then goes through some tiny eyebolts set into the deck.   
 

 
The railing stanchions are turned and tapered brass rods with holes drilled for the railings.  The support bar is a thinner brass rod soldered to the upright and bent to shape.  The base, feet and other fittings are chrome foil.  The turnbuckles are made up from sections of 0.04” brass tube that surround and secure the beading wire shrouds to a pair of large deck eyebolts.  All of the brass is electroplated like the pulpit.
 

 
Amidships is the mast, boom and boom support arm (vang?).  The running rigging is color coded so that during a race there is no confusion or delay in identifying the right line to haul.  The halyards travel mostly inside the mast tube, then emerge not very far above the boom, run down to single blocks at the foot of the mast, through a wide flat tunnel under the cabin roof, up and through the line clutches and then to the winch.  Here they are displayed as if for dockside presentation at a regatta.
 

 
The boom is laminated wood, attached to the mast with a hinged and pivoting fitting of machined brass pieces.  The arm is constructed from three pieces of telescoping brass tubing with a double block slung underneath on a brass crescent fitting.  The pink vang line runs from the port side camcleat near the aft cabin handrail to a single block secured to the deck, then through a single block on a strap tied to the lower hinge fitting for the boom arm, back and forth between the upper triple block and lower double block (note how the line switches from under/over the triple block to over/under during its second pass), then out a matching set of single blocks and camcleat on the starboard side.  All of this is just to get the purchase to haul on the large single block whose line reeves through several pulleys inside the boom arm. The mechanical advantage of this setup must be immense.
 

 
Much of the rest of the deck details have been shown before, but here they are all installed. 
 

 
The wheel pedestals are set at a 10 degree angle to vertical.  The main sheet traveler track and car are rigged for use with the main sheet running up to blocks attached to the fore and aft ends of the boom.  At the extreme aft end of the deck is the hydraulic tensioner for the backstay.  Again, this is telescoping brass tube and rod, securing the backstay which is heavier beading wire painted to simulate the Kevlar coating.
 

 
Below the waterline is the keel fin, keel bulb, and rudder.  All are carved from basswood, sealed and painted.  Between them is the small propeller for powered maneuvering in port.  The blades of the prop close like a clamshell when not in use and stay most of the time in this streamlined configuration.
 

 
Finally, at the very top of the mast are the instruments that read wind direction and speed.  This data, along with that from other sensors, is displayed on a series of screens mounted on the mast below the boom that you can see in other photos.
 

 
So there she is, completed and mounted.  Here are a few overall photos.  It has received some critical praise from owners of the actual boats and hopefully will be accepted for display in the Model Room of the New York Yacht Club.
 



 
The shipyard is now moving back in time 300 years from 2005 to 1705 to build the Queen Anne’s Revenge, a 20-gun light frigate that was the flagship of the pirate Edward Teach, known as Blackbeard.  It is being excavated underwater at Beaufort Inlet in North Carolina.  Go to http://www.qaronline.org/History/TheShipwreck.aspx   Look for a build log here in the future.
 

Jan - 
 
There is a build log for the Swan 42 here at MSW in the scratch built forum.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1615-swan-42-by-dan-pariser-shipmodel-one-design-racing-yacht/?hl=swan 
 
Thanks to you and the others for the compliments.
 
Dan

Hi everyone
 
Well, as promised, here are the latest photos of Rainbow's hull. She has emerged from the temporary frame jig in all her fragile glory. There's still a lot of sanding and filling to patch up the little inevitable hollows that occur when planking, but, it's a milestone to have released the hull from the jig. The simulated internal ribbing will also need to be added...monotonous job it may be, but necessary to ensure some degree of structural rigidity.
 
I've also made a temporary work stand to hold her from this point on.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Haha! I've been wondering that too. I either need to win the lottery and give up my day job or stop sleeping!
 
Lawrence's 1:50 bucket is done. I'll have to look around for a box big enough to mail this to Canada in!
 

 

 
Best wishes,

Tribute.
 
Because my wife is a little bit afraid she is loosing me a little bit because of the Batavia (which is not true  of course) i sculpted  one of the heads on deck to her image: 
 

 
 

All the standing rigging is done now (or should be done - it could be I have forgotten something) 
 
What remains are the ratlines....Nice job!
 

Man surely learns some new English words.
 
I have fitted the first yard on the foremast, and had to make a parral for this.
 
I therefore have bought me some 3 mm black beads - carved some small ribs and rigged the whole thing together around the mast.
 
Mind you, I didn't make the parral first - I started with a line around the yard - then through beats and upper holes of the ribs around the mast - then around the yard and back through beads and ribs - lower holes. Again around the mast - around the yard - through a ring in the yard and back through the parral, adding the last beads. Then through another ring on the yard towards a block, and then fitted on the deck.
 
pretty job for your eyes
 

 
Hopefully this image shows what I tried to describe:
 

Well this is it, she is finished. Maybe to the left or to the right some things could be added or improved, but I consider her ready.  Last pictures:
 






 
Thank you for watching! You were a nice audience! 

Thank you for the likes.
 
Pete, I am melting a few weights every day now, and so far I am up to 25lbs.
 
Steve you are probably right, Apart from the Skipjack launch I am already thinking about the next cutter.
 

 
I felt like getting the trolly finished so worked on it today, it looks a little whimsical but I like the ergonomics of it.
 

 

 
it is a good height for moving to the water.
 

 
Now it just needs a coat of paint. and it will be ready for the cutter's next ballast test.
 
Michael

Good morning Tom.
 
Hopefully these two photos will help, the glue was first diluted just enough to be able to be squeezed out of a large diameter hypodermic needle #25 the needle needed to be filled a few times for each run. I was able to lay the needle in the v groove between the planks and drag the needle toward the stern while squeezing the glue out. It was nerve wracking for sure because I did not want to spill any. the glue shrank when it dried so there were at least three applications of glue. 
 

 
Once the glue was fully cured I used a cabinet scraper to remove the lumps and blobs.
 

 
I have to admit that mini me helped in the tight corners  
 

 
Michael

Hi all

After spending some time cutting the internal bulkheads, I've now made a start on the internal accommodation; namely the main saloon amidships. It may not look like much yet, but hopefully it'll all come together into a very presentable interior.

I've also included a photo of the deck, which may look terribly unfinished! Rest assured that I've deliberately decided to leave the majority of the deck unplanked to allow the interior to be seen.

Hope you enjoy the photos and have a great week!

Cheers

Patrick

Hi all,
 
Years ago I read "Sailing Alone Around the World" by Joshua Slocum, and in January 2012 I decided that I would build his boat, the "SPRAY", in 1/48 scale POF with bent framing. The way Slocum built it.  I started asking questions on this forum, and I want to thank all those who answerd with help.  The information on this forum is invaluable.
 
Then the research began.  In the first chapter of his book, Slocum said he was given an old "fishing smack".  So I looked for fishing smacks of 1800.  About when his was built.  Someone suggested the "Emma C Berry" for framing, so I hunted for information on that boat.  I also gathered as many plan drawings of the "Spray" as I could find.  About five.
 
Now it was time to check and redraw the plans.  The first thing I discovered was that ALL the plans had errors.  Things like, the shear and section views would agree and the shear and the plan views would agree, but the width of the plan was no where near the same as the width of the sections.  Of the drawings I had, the drawing from the appendix in the book was the closest.  So I traced that into an old copy of AutoCad and worked out the errors.
 
Checking the fishing smacks plans had shown a frame spacing of from 15" to 22" I chose 18" for framing the Spray.  I drew a section at each frame.  I offset a line .031" inside to subtract the 1.5" planking Slocum used.  The frames will be 3" X 5" so again I offset another line .062 inside the planking for the frames.  This gave me the section lines for the plug I will carve to shape the frames.
 
I am going to plank only half the deck and deck houses so I can show the insides, taken from the sketches in Slocum's book. (See below)
 
Bob
 

The kit does not provide planking of the inner bull warks,

with all the corrections I have done to them I need some cover up .
 
Woodstrips are not for sale in Curacao let alone walnut woodstrips, I did however buy 3 years ago a package of Billing Boat Annegre strips, but those will not contrast with the deck planking..

I therefore bleach them and then stain with Minwax Special Walnut

The rather peculiar result, with treatment the wood has become a bit "grainy"

I think i will go for a full hight deck as in this picture

The standard fore deck is blocking the way between the soon to be hawse holes and the projected wind lass. Demolition Tool: the Dremel 561 Cutting Bit, is to wood what a thermal lance is to steel, but hard to control.

last plank "hung". Will sand and treat the hull once the entire casco is finished. Modifications from the original out of the box model are the "buttock" behind instead of a flat stern (a modification I would not recommend), the false keel and stems, and the heightened bullwarks.

In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board  for final stage of planking. .
After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right
 
My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures:

Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties

The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components  - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW.

I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman.
 
Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman

the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia).
 

Set up of frames

Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check
[
Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will

looks like its made of match sticks
But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok..

with first layer, that is

addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak

Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale.

And commence planking of second layer,
I then find this picture on the internet...

A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales.

Saddlebag

After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers).
.
I let the first planks envelop the stem

The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern
 

Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle
 

Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend.
 
Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time..

to ensure stress free gluing...

for each and every plank..
 
 
[to be continued]

last plank "hung". Will sand and treat the hull once the entire casco is finished. Modifications from the original out of the box model are the "buttock" behind instead of a flat stern (a modification I would not recommend), the false keel and stems, and the heightened bullwarks.

In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board  for final stage of planking. .
After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right
 
My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures:

Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties

The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components  - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW.

I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman.
 
Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman

the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia).
 

Set up of frames

Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check
[
Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will

looks like its made of match sticks
But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok..

with first layer, that is

addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak

Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale.

And commence planking of second layer,
I then find this picture on the internet...

A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales.

Saddlebag

After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers).
.
I let the first planks envelop the stem

The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern
 

Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle
 

Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend.
 
Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time..

to ensure stress free gluing...

for each and every plank..
 
 
[to be continued]

thanks for sharing lessons learned

Kieth 
 
Have a look at the images from the NMM website.   The planks werent nibbed at all around this time.  They were "hooked" alongside the margin plank.
 
See this image....also,  the planks were curved and tapered slightly at the bow.  You can see the curve here...
 
The second photo shows a hooked or scarphed end to the plank against the margin.
 
Both models are contemporary....and to the period we are discussing.  These are considered primary sources...any secondary sources written by Roberts,  Goodwin or anyone else is not nearly as weighted.  If I had to choose the more accurate...I would stick with the primary sources from the time period every time.  It is very hard to argue against those.
 
 
 
Chuck
 

 

Hello all and Gwen and I wish all a very happy and healthy Thanksgiving.  And to all non Americans have a great and healthy day!
 
Between all the chores around the house I did manage to cement the frames to the v.2.0's keel.  The only problem I had was with frame 9.  I didn't want to cut a slot into the sternpost knee and decided to cut that frame in the center and but cement it to the keel.  Ill drill a few holes in it so I can pin the two sides to the keel with a bamboo pin.  This in itself will be adventure because of the grain at that point.
 
Right now it's not strong enough to hold up to all the handling that'll take place with the planking.
 
I have pre-faired all the frames but will check the fairing and adjust it as necessary.  As you can see on the pics below I have added small strips of about 1 mm between the frames to give them a little more strength.  I may have to run a thin strip over all the frame bottoms like a keelson. 
 
All these frames are still rough and will be dressed down after the planking is on.  Compared to Omega's dinghy this is a giant vessel 
 
Okay, here are the pics of the progress I made.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Mike you are right, an explanation which I found on the internet was "Because they look so good with a rope around them.", that turned me off a bit

Well thank you all for the input.  I think its better to know how such a distasteful word came into being than just slough it off and not be able to discuss it.  We're all in agreement I guess that while we find the word distasteful and wouldn't use it ourselves, discussing its origins does not make the discussion itself distasteful and contemptuous.