Krelis

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

In my opinion Chucks planking instructions should raise an interesting debate, namely what we want our model to look like. Chuck finds his inspiration in contemporary models, I asked him yesterday, he explained to me that his method is a model planking technique in the strictest sense and has nothing to do with actual "real world" planking techniques. In the real world there are no planks wide enough to allow for the amount of spiling required in his method.
 
Of course, Chucks models look absolutely great, but in my eyes more than perfect, where at least my - beginners - strife is for real world authenticity, I mean, whats the point of making everything above the waterline look absolutely real up to the smallest detail, while the other half the ship (the under water section) is a fiction?
 
Thanks,
 
Jan
 
[Edit Jan B.,  8 March 2015: following Chuck's and others remarks hereunder I have been searching the Internet again to check real life planking pictures and my conclusion is that Chuck is - of course - very right, so Chuch and other responders: thanks for this lesson in planking and modesty!]

Mike you are right, an explanation which I found on the internet was "Because they look so good with a rope around them.", that turned me off a bit

Hi All
 
 
I¨m new to this page so have a litle pations wit mee . trying figuring out how it all funks.
 
Ennyway My name is Jens and i live in Copenhagen  Denmark , so my englis is onfortunaly not the bedst but i vill take Google translate in youse later on . 
 

 
I am building an old Billing Boats no. 459 Cutty sark as i board sekond hand som years ago and has now buildt for at least 2 years . im nerly finish with the ships hull and is about  building the lifeboats . The pic. belov is  about 1 week old. 
 
I planing to schove pic. from the start and the hole proces as if i started on day 1. and sofort to today .
 
I consither this letter therfor as a test in how this page woarks an will therfor erease it again hwen i soone start my "reeal " building log .
 
 
Cheers All.
Jens 
 
 

Nice!

For my next build I was considering the 17th Century Statenjacht according to Willem van Beuge's instructions. I have had his book on my shelf for a decade, went through it many times. What I like about his instructions are his classic modelling techniques. What they lack is clarity. Have been looking on the internet for a set of his original drawings, still looking.. 

The next stage I make handrails for other side of the hull
 

 

 

 

 

 

Promising start, will follow

nIce jigs!

2nd Planking 2nd side.
 
Yves - thank you for the comment.
 
The second side is in the main a repeat of the 1st with a few additions. As before I will cover it mainly by photos.
 
In the 4th photo you can see the nylon (white) roller that I used to press the second planks down during gluing. Also you can see that a small section of 2nd planking is missing from the hull at the upper end of the rudder. This piece has a significant curvature and you can see it pinned on to the cork block. This piece is drying having been soaked in boiling water and bent to the correct shape before being held in shape with pins.
 
I can get a bit obsessive, even planking areas that will not be visible on the final hull. The next photograph sows a case in point.
This area was also planked.
Having completed the second planking it was time for sanding. You will have seen from earlier posts that I was concerned not to sand through the 2nd planks and I was therefore very careful during the sanding operation. All sanding was done manually using wet and dry paper (used dry), progressively using 120, 240, 400 grit. Pressure was kept light with frequent checks on the surface to ensure that the desired shape was being achieved while minimising surface removal.
Finally for this post I needed to finish the stern. I decided to give the hull a few high-lights and this was one of them (the hull has been wiped with a damp cloth to bring out the colour).
 

2nd planking - 1st side
 
I am going to cover this mainly in photographs with comments appended.
 
The kit sequence for planking is 1st planking, 2nd mahogany planking, plywood sub deck then deck edge strip. This is ok if the sides of the hull are to be painted as the exposed plywood and deck edge plank will be covered. As i was planning a mahogany finished hull I needed to have the deck edge covered in mahogany hence my sequence of 1st planking, deck, 2nd mahogany planking. One advantage of my sequence is that the 1st and second planks are offset by circa 2mm (.080") - the thickness of the sub deck and deck edge strip. I believe this aids the smoothness of finish.
 
The mahogany planks are 4mm (.160") x 0.5mm (.020"). Because the planks are very thin they need to be applied uniformly and smoothly so that sanding can be minimised.
 
The next 2 images show about 1/3 of the planks applied. The planks are glued with wood glue and pressed in place by a hard nylon roller. In the second photo the 1st planking finish at the stern can be seen. This is as recommended in the kit.
 
More planks.
 
As the stem starts to transition from sharp to rounded, 2.5mm wide strips are laid along the length of the keel. More easily seen in the 2nd image. 
 
More strips along the keel and then more hull planks etc. etc. In the 2nd to last photo the drop keel can be seen - at this stage covered in masking tape to protect the polished bass surface. 
 
None of the planking has been sanded at this stage.
 
Next time I will cover finishing the hull planking.

present state of the build.

 

 

 

Dick
 
 

Dear Nenad, condolences and best, Jan

Dear Nenad, condolences and best, Jan

Dear Nenad, condolences and best, Jan

Dear Nenad, condolences and best, Jan

Dear Nenad, condolences and best, Jan

remember the love.......joy.....and happy times Nenad.   I join the roster,  of all those who search for the right words to say,  in your time of sadness.  my condolences my friend,  I wish for you comfort,  solace,  and peace.

Dropped the pick in the abrolhos islands and went ashore yesterday on East Wallaby Island. This is the island described as 'high island' in the Batavia story and where Wiebbie Hayes and his soldiers found a fresh water spring. The pic attached shows Leeuwin at anchor from the 'high' point of East Wallaby Island.
 
While you can't make it out in the picture, directly behind Leeuwin is Beacon island, the site of the massacre of the Batavia.

My friends have built two ships from the "PacificCrossRoads" 
 
 
 
 

As I said Izzy, good idea, but in my scale, it is invisible
 
Cats are 3cm long, with crossection 4x4 mm which means that sheaves openings are 3mm long and 0,5 mm wide. As it can be seen on picture, I drilled a hole, put inside 3mm barbeque toothpic 3mm dia, and ... where is it ?
 
So little to be seen.
 
Maybe some fine tuning and cleaning will help, we'll see
 
This is tonight result
 

 

Hope this helps
 
No scale just how to
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This can now be seen also in the forum "Kit Bashers Guide to The Galaxy" with more explanation if needed.

nice!

Build log part 2
 
 
I know it sounds strange to start making the propellers where the hull is not even on the slipway, but I was wondering if I could make them from brass, as they are a typical detail, in the way they were designed 118 years ago......., and as I`ve never seen such model props on the model market, it would be a pitty if I had to fit regular model brass props
 
 

 
I fell in love with these elegant stern lines, designed for speed
 
 

 
here some of the detail parts, in total there are 38 to be made single parts per prop, port- and stb. props rotate counterclockwise with appr. blade twists
 
 

 
raw hub with mounted, drilled and slotted calottes to take up the blades. The slot orientation is set with card template angle jig. The hub raw material is 8 mm squarebar, with centerline boring and M3 thread
 
 

 
blades soldered on and brushed over, the soldering per gas tourch was quite tricky
 
 

 
started to fit the resembled blade fastening bolts with distance sleeves and hexagonal dome nuts. Here six bolts (in actual would be 8 or 10, but that was to tricky for me to drill at that scale...
 
 

 
The actual props had a diam. of 6800 mm, resulting in 47,2 mm model scale 1:144
 
 

 
without bolts....
 
 

 
with bolts
 
 

 
the first prop took me 2 days to make, the second 1,5 day (learncurve)
 
 

 
here original design drawing with 3-blade hub
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Prepping to Glass - or how not to build a hull.
April 2009
 
The plug, now "the hull." needed to be prepped in order to be glassed.  The card-stock quarter galleries were tossed; the stem knee shaped and tapered; and some of the brown paper detailing removed.  The sheer was trued-up and every thing was lightly sanded.
 
 
I used the polyester resin available at the local hardware superstore, and laid up one half at a time with 4oz cloth.
 
 
After one side set-up, it was trimmed and the other side laid up.  The next day that was trimmed, the whole hull sanded, and another coat of resin rolled on:
 
 
Once that was set and sanded all the forms were carefully removed.  The hull was flimsy with only the battens, paper tape, and some very fine glass cloth:
 
 
Glass matting was laid in, one side at a time.  Extra resin was poured in while the hull laid on it's side, to try and fill the spaces between the battens.  This probably would have been better done with Water Putty, or some other filler that would have filled the space more solidly:
 
 
I now had a solid fiberglass hull as the matting made it very rigid.
 
This is NOT a good way to make a hull for an RC boat.  The original plan, before I was distracted by Mowill's book, was the way I should have gone from the start; wood planking on forms, covered with glass and resined inside.  If you're following this with the idea of doing one yourself, learn from my mistakes - look at how I built the hull for my Macedonian.
 
Next: Deck Framing