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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Hello Richard Thank you. I had thought I could simulate the stiching like this:- The problem is the chore of doing the cutting - 72 cuts per hoop X 30 hoops + 2160 cuts. Quite a chore and I don't want to spend a few hundred quid acquiring a dividing head.
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Mike. I have used blue - Endeavour link below. But I think in future I will stick to white.
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Hello Mike, The folded ribbon and glue method can be a bit messy. I find ripstop sail repair tape is much easier. Its designed for the repair of sails, is very thin, very strong and pre glued - and comes in lots of colours.
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Michael - surprisingly I had passingly thought about it and got as far as thinking about a machining set up. I sort of wanted a tilting dividing head to make it easy but I don't have one. Anyway it seemed like a lot of work. I might have had a go if the number of components had been less but machining up 30 rings seemed to be a bit of a chore. I find the fun is in working out how to make something - not making loads of the same thing. By the way the Bristol Channel can be very choppy and I do think you need to damp that compass needle if you are intent on steering a true course.
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I decided the time was right to start attaching some of the bits to the main mast. The starting point was accurate drilling / milling of the mast to take the locating pins for the collars and other fittings. I took particular care with the precision of the slots for the ring rests. The rests themselves are quite small but recourse to the scroll saw quickly had them made (including spares). And here they are precisely fitted. I use the word "precisely" because I had used the wrong datum on the mill and had machined the slots in precisely the wrong position. A mast repair was necessary together with re-machining. Very annoying! I started assembly by nailing the rubbing plates to the back of the mast. I now know why you ships hull platers don't use individual nails! The nails are cut down drapers pins and the holes were predrilled undersize. The nails were coated in CA glue before insertion. I then moved on to the base of the mast and started attaching my accumulated bag of bits. If you look just above the winch you will see the repair to my "precisely" milled slot. I inlaid a piece of mahogany. Between the spiders is a rope binding with the rope bound over what appears to be canvas. In this case I used sail repair tape to simulate the canvas. Finally an overall view to show the areas where I have been working. It somehow all seems to get lost when the camera is turned off "micro" scale.
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Greg, Thank you. Michael / Mark, I have to be numerate - my wife is a maths graduate. If I don't take an interest she takes charge of the bank account. As for days off - I think a day in the workshop is a day off.
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That is really quite brilliant! Soft solder I assume?
- 2,207 replies
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Michael. Re first tools. I remember those days well. All nuts came with acres of space around them and no obstructions in sight. Perfect for accommodating the pride and joy of our schoolboy and apprentice exploits. My first product was a pipe wrench, hack sawn, hand filed, drilled, turned, reamed, riveted, case hardened and lovingly polished. Alas it is no more, its teeth gradually fell off and it was consigned to that great scrap yard in the sky. I bet these days kids make them on 3D printers and wonder what all the fuss is about.
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Giampieroricci. A mistake on the chain!!!!!! Wow, you must be human after all. Easy to fix - If you stretch the photograph the links will become oval and all will be well.
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Rob, Richard, John. Thank you. Hello Julie - welcome back. I assume its getting a bit too hot to be outside in sunny Florida? Today I had a go at a bit of precision wire bending but first I wrote myself a list of the mast fittings I still had to complete. I broke the first rule of lists. According to my wife all list should start with stuff already completed. This is so the first activity can be to cross them off. If you include enough "already done" stuff you can congratulate yourself and take the rest of the day off. Anyway on with the wire bending. I needed to complete the components to fabricate the assembly where the yards attach to the mast - as per the attached sketch. I wanted to bend the "core" brass wire very accurately as this would set the 7 degree up angle for the yards. I calculated the bending set up that I was going to use on the mill. The datum was set up as the corner of the milling vice and the mill spindle was offset in both "x" and "y" directions to setup the angle. I "borrowed" the vice end stop and mounted it to support the wire and thus prevent bending in the z plane. The spindle was then moved to the calculated x and y positions. The wire was then bent at the corner of the vice using a metal bar and hammer (to achieve a tight bend). Light tapping on the bar continued until the wire touched the spindle - and at this point the bend was the required 7 degrees. I also used the vice set up with slightly different settings for assembling and gluing the brass inset, ferrule and wire. This may look a bit complicated but the set up was quite quick and the results were consistent and accurate.
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Michael. Nicely done. I'm looking forward to the next instalment with anticipation.
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I got a bit of time today to finish the goosenecks. Machining followed a similar process to that used for the mast bracket. The rounding of edges was done by hand filing. I then made the pivot pin - turned on the lathe out of .090" bar and drilled with a .040" hole on the mill. I then did a bit of polishing. I am accumulating a lot of mast fittings - but it will be soon time to get on with assembling the masts.
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Dan I was impressed by the result given the process you had to go through. It looks great.
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Thank you all for you feedback and likes. I'm still on mast related features. Altair has wear / pressure plates attached to the mast where the gaffs intersect the masts. These are in the form of 1/2 cylinders. On the main mast there is an additional plate about 1/3 of the way between the gaff and the deck. This is not on the plans but is very evident on photos. I am guessing its function relates to a reefed main setup. There are also a number of other smaller plates where blocks come into contact with the mast. Fortunately I did not have to bend up flat plate as I had some thin walled tube of marginally smaller diameter than the mast. I reasoned that once cut it could be pressed on to the mast to form a good fit. I wanted the tube to be neatly cut so I started by wedging it on to a dowel of correct dimeter. This was then put on the lathe and the lengths required were cut using a very sharp angled "V" tool (just about visible on the following photo). The tube (still on the dowel) was then moved on to the rotary table on the mill and lateral holes were drilled to take the mast attachment nails. Having drilled the holes the tube/dowel was moved back to the lathe and the sharp "V" tool was turned horizontal to be used as a plane to score the lateral parting line. The scoring action was repeated with .001" advancement of the tool on each planing stroke, alternating sides, until the tube parted. I then started work on the goosenecks - this is only partial complete. I started by taking the basic dimensions from the plan and then doing a better job of detailing the design. I started with the mast bracket - cut from .250" square brass bar. The bracket was machined on the mill using end mills of various diameters. The photos tell the story.
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Richard, I measured the bar (.250 x.250) and then used an edge finder to locate the edge. Having fixed the edge I indexed the mill over to compensate for the edge finder diameter. This set the mill spindle directly over the edge. I then moved it over a further .125 to set the mill directly above the centre of the bar. This video does a passable job of depicting the process https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_qiPE5z7SE.
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Drill press adapter for small bits
KeithAug replied to Foultide's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi Dave Link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122382958417 I am aware Little machine Shop do something very similar but it seems much more expensive. -
Im finding that the mast fittings are gong on a bit. Each time I look at the plans and photographs I find something else to make. Anyway here I go with another update. Today I decided to start by joining the upper and lower main and foremasts. This involved joining 8 mast collars (making 4 fitting in total). I wanted to make sure the the upper and lower masts lay parallel to one another and as the upper and lower collars were of different diameters this involved accurately sizing and making the spacers that joined the collars. The spacing pieces were profiled using differing sizes of end mill which were plunged into the 1/4" square brass bar stock. The components were then assembled for soldering. Initially I tried wiring the parts together to retain them during the soldering operation. It worked but it required a great deal of dexterity and created much frustration. I then bent a nail to form a clamp, this proved to be a much better solution. The soldered collars were then parted from the bar with a razor saw before being polished.
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Drill press adapter for small bits
KeithAug replied to Foultide's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi I was looking for something similar recently and came up with this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OWIXkFVoi0 -
Rob, Thank you. The balls were made by plunging a form tool into the brass bar. On the first ball I repeatedly checked the diameter with a calliper, advancing the tool (with the cross slide hand wheel) until the correct diameter was achieved. I then set the cross slide hand wheel scale to zero. For all subsequent balls the had wheel was advanced until it reached the zero setting. This meant that the tool always returned to a set position and hence cut the same diameter as on the original ball. I hope this makes sense.
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Michael, Sorry my explanation was not great. I did form the ball by doing a plunge cut as you surmised. The stem was cut in the conventional way using a small parallel turning tool. It was this second operation where I needed to take small cuts. John. Thank you.
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