KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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The bulwark capping rail has a number of features which I wanted to reproduce. the first of these are: Protective step plates at the top of the gangway steps:- Protective plates below the stowage position of the anchors:- In both instances the plate is copper with attached wear resisting brass strips. I drew a card pattern from the rail and used this to shape .015" copper sheet. The width was equal to the rail width plus the thickness to allow for the rolled over edge. The rail of course follows a gentle curve and so I made a former from oak on which I could shape the plates. The copper was heated to cherry red to soften it. it was then held in a vice, over the former, and the edge was pushed over using a rounded bar (in the photo) The formed plates were then polished and placed in position prior to gluing. I simulated the brass strips by using some etched sheet left over from previous build. And for now that is it as "THE SHIPYARD IS CLOSED"..............................Gone Sailing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Swiftly, swiftly flew the ship, Yet she sailed softly too: Sweetly, sweetly blew the breeze— On me alone it blew. ……………………….S.T.C.
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John i keep looking in in the hope of finding sawdust. I presume research is going to be ongoing for a while?
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Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
KeithAug replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It isn't a big risk. Most distributors live or die by the the recommendations they get from customers. If they constantly shipped out equipment which was inaccurate, packed up after a few months, had dangerous sharp edges and or gearboxes full of swarf they would quickly go out of business. I think that choosing a good distributor is a reasonable way of reducing risk to an acceptable level. -
Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
KeithAug replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The quality controls of the importer / distributor is of prime importance. Many importers have their own inspect and prepare facilities and do the necessary preparation work to ensure that the machine as delivered is ready to run condition. Additionally some importers have their own staff embedded in the manufacturing facilities to ensure that their equipment achieves their specifications and standards. it is important to choose a distributor who has a good reputation. My experience was that apart from removing protective grease I needed to do nothing other than switch it on. -
Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
KeithAug replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have to say that I don't share the negative experiences of Chinese lathes and mills. I have had mine for 5 years and have experienced none of the "cautionary" wear or accuracy issues suggested in previous posts. I regularly work to tolerances of a thousandth of an inch without any problems. I previously owned a Boxford lathe, a well respected UK manufacturer. It was replaced by the Chinese lathe at a 1/6th of the cost and I have to say I found it just as solidly made with the benefit of more features. It is true that the early Chinese machines which started to arrive in the west 20 years ago were of indifferent quality, however in more recent times they have got their act together and now produce good model engineering machines. -
Excellent Nils. I await the next one with interest.
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Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
KeithAug replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Bill, I'm fairly sure the GO759 is yet another version of the machine I have and similar to the one I mentioned above. All made in the same Chinese factory and rebadged by distributors. I agree that this machine is a good compromise between size, power and usable capacity. Mine is badged Warco WM16, but if you look at the design it's virtually identical to the GO795. http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/32-wm-16-variable-speed-milling-machine.html. -
Hi Shoosh It looks like you went to the races, did you win? Was your prospective husband looking for a handyman as a partner or was that the introductory bonus? Good luck with your build.
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Julie, thank you for visiting and for your kind words. Greg - the pan is to install the pool table parallel with the floor. Every shot will be a winner if only I can get the balls to stay in place while a take the first shot. Richard - like the haggis I plan to grow one leg longer than the other - but also like the haggis I will have to remember never to turn round. Also thank you to all of you who have visited and left their "likes". The subject of yesterdays frustration were these flanges. They are only .070" thick and .375" diameter. They have rolling superpowers - I needed 4 but had to make 6. The other 2 are probably still rolling. They sit at the base of the cowl vents. The deck was drilled through the flanges and the vents were glued with 5 minute epoxy - to give me time to align them. The height was set with a split aluminium tube cut specifically of the job - you can see it in position on the port hand cowl. The alignment needed some assistance while the glue set - see the prop (courtesy of Starbucks) on the front port cowl. To celebrate the current stage of progress I put the deck lights etc, in place and took a few shots.
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Recommendations For A Good Milling Machine
KeithAug replied to Thistle17's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the UK equivalent one of these and I find it produces good accurate work. At 275lb it is quite heavy for a small machine but weight is an advantage with milling machines as it usually means improved stiffness and accuracy. It also has a good sized table which is a bonus. It is now 5 years old. I use it a lot and have fond it reliable (probably famous last words). http://www.machinetoolonline.com/files/PM_25MV-BD_9-2016_v4.pdf -
John / Richard - Thank you. Today was a little frustrating but out of the frustration came a plan. When I next remodel the workshop I have decided to lay the floor to falls. I think a compound slope of 45 degrees would be about right, with the low point in one corner. Set in the corner will be a sump lined with a closely fitting bucket. I realise that this will present a few problems with the legs of workbench and chair, and of course i'd have to invest in some extra long levelling screws for the lathe and mill. These minor problems however pale into insignificance when considering the benefits of such an arrangement. The time saved in looking for dropped components and tools would be immeasurable!!!!!!!!
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And so to phase 2 of the vent cowl experiment - the machined option. The cowl "bell" is .400" outside diameter (OD) by .300" long. I turned down brass rod to the .400" OD and cross drilled a hole half way through the bar to take the tube which would form the inner shaft of the cowl. I then ground profile tools from HSS tool blanks. The external profile was drawn out on paper which was then glued to the tool blank to form the grinding guide. I decided to form the inner profile in two stages - firstly creating the internal spherical end by pre drilling to a depth of .250" with a 3/16 twist drill and the plunging a .320" diameter round ended milling cutter, again to a depth of .250". The inner profile tool was thus made simpler as it only required shaping to form the mouth of the cowl. I had to take care with the bore depth to avoid the external profile running into it. I took it carefully applying the check twice cut once rule. The external profile cut was taken slowly with the lathe turning at a moderate speed and using cutting fluid. I then used concentric tubes to form the shaft. The inner tube penetrating through the hole in the "bell" and the outer tube butting up to the external profile. I though this would give me the best chance of getting a good neat joint. The assembly was then soldered using a small ammount of solder paste and a propane torch. I then cropped the tube to length and remounted the assembly in the lathe to polish the inside of the cowl. Finally I cut the cowl from the bar with razor saw, filed the stub smooth and polished. Having tried the 2 options I am going ahead with the second option. It was quicker and gave a more accurate representation of the cowl shape.
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Julie, The sketch may help. When to lacquer depends on what is happening at the deck edge. If it's like the sketch it's better to get thr deck planking done before finishing the hull.
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Julie Will you be able to see the deck edge plank when viewed from the side. If you can see it then it would be better for it to be in place before you lacquer the hull.
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Thanks John - I also think the photos I have reflect two configurations - before and after refit. It all ads to the fun!!!!! Today I "finished off" the various deck fittings - at least that is until I discover more when I get to rigging. But for now that is it. For a distraction I though I would have a go at making the bell mouth of the vents - four needed in total. This is a first time of doing this and I have a couple of options to try. Today I had a go at the "pressed" option. I started by making the press tool consisting of a circular die with a corner radius and a plug with the bell form machined on to it. The die bore was .400" and the outside diameter of the plug was .350" - equal to the bore diameter less twice the thickness of the copper sheet I was using. The copper was a piece of domestic water pipe split and opened out. The press was the lathe tailstock. The procedure involved annealing the copper (heating to cherry red) and then pressing a dimple .020" at a time - in total I did 12 annealing /pressing steps. On the first one I had a bit of an experiment on how aggressive I could go with the pressing steps. The answer was "not very". So I did it again taking more care. To clean it up I glued it to the plug and filed and emery clothed it in the lathe. I was happy with the result. Next I will have a go at a machined option.
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John, Richard - thank you very much. Mark, Thank you - it's really good to see you back in the groove. A bit more progress - all 4 sets of pin rails and turnbuckles installed. The picture shows starboard foremast fixings. Then time to get on with the multitude of deck eyes. Before and after photos below. Getting the location right is somewhat of a challenge. I don't have a lot of confidence in the plans so I spend a lot of time scrutinising photographs. Interpreting the relative positions of one item to another and constructing the chain of evidence back to a known and accurately located point takes an age and slows progress to a snails pace. Not all deck fixings are the same - some of the deck eyes sit on pedestals.
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Julie Doubling the thickness of the veneer was probably a good call. I did the same on Altair. I didn't get any "clinker" on 2nd planking Endeavour, probably one of the few benefits of the very thin mahogany strips supplied with the kit. I think I was lucky in avoiding any sand through although I did take a lot of care. Finishing the hull is fairly quick compared to planking and hence provides the boost of a much higher reward for effort ratio. You are nearly through the worst of it!!!!
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Julie. The tricky bit now is not to sand through the veneer. Better to use fine grit emery paper and take it very slowly with light pressure.
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Nice work Dan. Impressive how you achieved such uniformity on the cut outs given the small scale at which you are working.
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Frank, How did you make the "T" pieces where the rail joins the stancheon?
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HMS SUSSEX 1693 by 8sillones
KeithAug replied to 8sillones's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Amazing! -
Thank you Per and all of you who have visited. Today I spent some time working on the port side main mast stay fixings. I started with a number of small plates which fit around the rail fixing for the turnbuckles. They are .125" x .260" x .025" and have a central slot of .040 width. I needed a way of making a number of reasonably identical plates. I did this as follows:- I drilled the slot end holes and then cut out the middle with a piercing saw. I profiled one end and cleaned up the slot with a 1mm end mill. I only used the end mill in the plunge mode as any sideways pressure causes breakage. I then cut the plates to width using a .025" slitting saw. I profiled the other end as far as I could using piercing saw and then needle file. Having done most of the shaping I separated the plates from the bar and cleaned up the profile with a file. The plates fit on the rail as follows:- The turnbuckles were then mounted. The two remaining turnbuckles are deck mounted. These were located together with the belaying pin rail.One down three to go!
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Thank you John, I have had a production run on turnbuckles. The shrouds require 8 per mast and 16 in total. I made these but a number of others are still required for various locations. The turnbuckles have a fork on one end and a boss on the other. I covered the fork in an earlier post and the boss was a straightforward tuning / drilling job. I had to tap more rod - in all I accumulated a pot full of parts. The boss's and forks were soldered in place using solder paste and a butane torch. The boss ends are attached to the deck via a deck eye and shackle. Both the shackle and eye are are from 1/32" brass wire.
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Frank You shouldn't have any concerns about your models. Most of us do it for our own pleasure and the key criteria is to make something that pleases oneself. It is seldom the case that model makers achieve absolute accuracy and lack of information often constrains many of us to make something that looks about right. The degree of accuracy also comes down to personal choice. So my advice is to do it your way, you will be surprised how others at MSW appreciate whatever you choose to build. Thank you for looking at my builds, it's always good to get positive feedback.
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