Cathead

Roger and Cog capture my feelings on this. Digital is fine for light linear reading, especially fiction, but I cannot stand trying to work through a technical text of any kind (involving figures, illustrations, or the need to move back and forth in the text) in digital form. Plus I, too, spend a lot of work time on the computer and really don't like the additional eye strain of reading for pleasure on a screen.
 
I have a Kindle, but only use it for reading when traveling. Any book or magazine I care about comes in print. And it's not just age, I'm under 40.

some more progress. have finally finished and fitted the starboard side louvre shutters to the windows. this whole structure has now been glued into place. have made a start on the second deck balustrades as well as the passenger ladders leading up to the next deck. also have planked the next deck level and made a start on the underside stiffening boards. here this is just dry fitted to try to get the correct alignment. next step, hopefully in the next few days, will be to glue this deck into place, position the access ladders for both the passengers and aft crew ladders.
 
chris
 

Jeeez where'd this mess come from. 

So basically I'm done with gun 2s PE. I always love bending PE, I will never get tired of that. 

but I will always dread glueing on railings. 

Time for gun 3. 

thanks Carl!  I did a bit more.
 
I started to make some of the other parts for the lower deck.   if I get enough filled out,  I will be able to add the second level.   first were the hooks for the coral gates.

I made a bunch of them......stain the finished ones with mahogany,  and glue 'em in place.   I cut the coral gate bars as well and stained them too.......sprayed them with gloss lacquer.   where the smoke stacks are to originate from,  are the two large holes in the second level deck.   there are two pieces that will act as a stop for them.

the aft structure is not a wide as the forward structure.......to compensate for this,  I added two  posts.....one on each side,  of the aft structure.

as mentioned,  I also began to do the edge stripping around the deck    half of it is now done.

a canopy brace spans both sides of the area between the structures.   they were stained and given a couple coats of gloss lacquer.  here is one of them....they are both in place now

the bottom coral gate hooks are in place as well........the top pair will be added soon.  the resat of the edging was added to the deck.


I had to run out and get more lacquer.......tried to find it in a bottle or can,  but I guess I'll have to go to Hobby Lobby for that.  I'll settle for the rattle cans for the moment  
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

After assembling the build board, I began assembling the keel pieces.  In the photo below you see the three elements..The rising wood on top,  the two keel pieces glued together in the center and the false keel below that.  I darkened the seam between the two keel parts so they would really stand out using a soft pencil.  I had my two screws and bolts ready as well.

I used the screws to help align the layers and glue them together.  Note how I left all the laser char in place until after all the keel parts were glued together.  I also darkened the seam between the keel and false keel.
 

Then the rising wood was added but first I needed to glue the two nuts into the laser cut holes provided for them.  I simply placed a nut on the table and positioned the rising wood over the top of it.  Then I pressed down firmly to push the wood over the nut.  This placed the nut perfectly.  I added a drop of glue around the nuts perimeter to secure it flush with the bottom of the rising wood.  I was careful not to get any glue on the threads of the nut.
Then I glued it to the top of the keel.  After applying some titebond I actually screwed it into position to be aligned.  The middle keel was intentionally left a bit wider because now I will remove the laser char.  There is more char on the thicker keel pieces so I left that thicker so it wouldnt be over sanded in the process.  It cleaned up pretty good.  I was careful not to remove too much.  I applied some wipe on poly afterwards.

All cleaned up and test fit with the screws on the work base which you might notice I made a bit wider in this final version...The bottom of the base uses another piece of laser cut wood to make sure the screws dont stick out to far on top of the rising wood.  There are several supplied to use as spacers if need be.  Then I removed the keel to start on the rabbet.


To make the rabbet I used a laser cut scraper tool designed especially for the job.  See below as it is pretty self explanatory.  Brass strip filed to a point and used to make the rabbet.

Several light passes at first working from the center outward.  Then I cleaned up the rabbet with some sand paper and files.

To finish off the keel, I used some 20 pound black fishing line for the bolts.  I realize these would have been copper but I really dont like that look.  But you guys can substitute if you prefer.   I like them blackened as shown instead.  Next up I will detail how to build the frames.
 

So...forgive me if parts of this repeats from earlier posts.  But after the tweaking and experimenting I have started on the final prototype version of the Pegasus cross section.   In the end I abandoned experiments with that new wood.  The reason being, the cross grain was just not working.  Whenever I applied any finish to the end grain of pieces they just turned very very dark.  Almost black actually.  This was a deal breaker.  So although much more expensive, I will be using Alaskan Yellow cedar for the cross section and also in the end offering it in cherry as well.  This is my cedar version from start to finish....a quick photo to show them both side by side first.  
 
Cedar is a beautiful wood and the only reason why I didnt use it to begin with was its slightly more expensive cost and lack of a reliable supplier.  But that situation has now been solved.  So its a win-win all around.
 

 
 

there's a lot more than meets the eye Carl.......more involved than a work boat     ....like a lamb to slaughter   
 
I got to do some more on her yesterday......sub assemblies galore!     it's time to clean out the holes for the poles....I got the main ones.

there are two larger ones at the stern end of the deck.......one of them I botched and had to repair it.

the other side came out good though.......I tried to cut the affected one,  but the glue hadn't set long enough and had to repair it again.   I'll try again at a later time.   I tried to make a jig to drill the bar holes in the vents for the aft structure,  but gave up on that notion....darn thing kept breaking.   instead,  I did one of them by eye and drilled the others to match,  using the first one as a template.   came out reasonably well.

later they were painted to match the doors.

I had sprayed the paddle wheel brackets with a gloss lacquer........they came out with some degree of shine,  but it still sucked into the wood.   two seal coats before this........and it still did it?!?!?!?  .....some kind of thirsty wood !   good enough for me though,  and they were cemented into place.

I also repaired and finished the end on the second level structure.   sanded,  it will pass muster......I thought it would have a flat spot because of the break,  but it rounded up fairly well.

the other end still needs to be done,  and then I can start to plank it over,  along with the third level.   I'm not going to use the metal windows......I will either try to remove the panes in them,  or I'll make the windows for them.......weighing out the possibilities      the vents are dry.........they are now in place on the aft structure.

I gave the second level deck a second application of stain,  to spruce it up and get rid of the tiny nicks.   I also started to put the banding around the edges.  it will be ready for sealing at that point,  later to be cemented to the model.   the decorative lattice that goes between the two structures has been stained with the mahogany.   it will need to be fitted later.......the coral bar hooks are in the process of being created.

still more to go on the first level     I've been looking at the frames for the paddle wheels.........the more I look at them,  the more I'm not liking the paint work ahead.   thinking on this..........

Better late then never,
    But the last time I was here you were building Pritt. She came out beautiful. Congrats John.

I'm going to ignore the 2mm blocks on the guns.  I've ordered 3mm and 4mm blocks from Chuck.  I hope the 3's work but I'll with the 4's if I have to.  What ever's left over will used for rigging (along with another order to Syren.  Very slow going at present so no pictures or updates until the cannon are in place and rigged.  

Cog, I will think about it and deal with it next week.  I will procrastinate and for now I will concentrate on PE. 
I guess ill cut out the PE one gun at a time. I cut the first guns PE out.  

It didnt take to long and it wasnt a pain like I thought. Usually ladder rungs and railings are a huge pain for me. 

You're definitely right that the proportions of this kit are out of whack. The figures will add a really nice touch, though.

Kurt's answer is what I do. Brief soak, shape, clamp, hairdryer, adjust and shape, glue. Works very well. Plank should fit its shape before gluing.

I just attached the 2 halfs on each gun. Then just for fun stuck in the barrels to get an idea what it will look like. 

also Im starting to get stuff for the missouri. I hope this stuff airbrushes ok. 

I started assembling the 4 16" guns. I will try it in 3 stages plastics/PE/resin. Plastics went together nicely. 

but the resin is  going to be a different story. They look really good,  but I am hugely disappointed in the fact that the resin blast bags are solid! I have to drill them out myself and its a tapering hole. Its going to be a massive pain. Im still working on the first 1 for 2 hours and still not done. I'm thinking of just not using blast bags. 
Dammit..Why did MK1 have to do that?!? 

At the rate you people are starting build logs for this kit, I'm about ready to figure out how to design and offer another riverboat kit to give more options given the apparent interest.

I dunno, Mark, buy a cheap tablet, prop it up, and set the display to rotate...

That is what I figured and noticed on other framed builds.  And it they are not filled nicely they do look bad.  So I will leave that up to the experts to bash.  This gives a nice clean appearance.  I am also thinking hard about the treenails on each frame.  Again not something a care too include on mine because they are nearly invisible.  And they sometimes look like mistakes or blemishes.  So I may just leave them out and if folks care to include them they can.
 
I will be bringing this to the joint clubs Rusty.....also some laser cut frames for folks to play with.   Greg sorry to hear you wont make it.   I was looking forward to seeing you and talking about the project.  
 
Chuck

Great progress report Chuck! Technically, the upper sill mortises are angled cuts and the lower ones are called birdsmouth mortises (V-shaped like a beak). As they are only an inch or two deep and cause endless difficulties to everyone but David Antscherl I think your simple mortise solution is excellent. During the fairing process the joint itself becomes barely visible anyway. And any slight gaps are easily erased by placing some white glue in the space followed by light sanding.

Thanks Paul
 
It also creates a flat top so the entire model can be flipped to help with planking and fairing.   Something I noticed was a real pain when other folks were making their cross sections.
 
Chuck

Great idea with the notched strips at the top to keep it all lined up chuck
Nice work
Regards
Paul 

Here is what it looks today.  It may not look like much more was done but its very deceiving.  I have been making a great deal of progress by tweaking the drafts...refining the construction concepts etc.
 
In these pictures you can see I added a few more frames.  But more importantly I have faired the frames.  This was important for my design and needed to be done now to test that the chocks would not be sanded away.  Also to test the overall shape but I was pretty convinced that they were OK.  Everything worked out wonderful. What you might find interesting is the fact that none of these frames are glued into the keel....they are all just test fit together and this is also true of my initial test for the port framing.  All the pieces are just dry fit together.  The port sills are not faired yet as you can see.  The fit on all of the pieces and frames was surprisingly good which is what enabled me to fair the inside and out without too much difficulty, although you would/should not try this at this stage.  Its not recommended.
 
The port framing is purposely simplified as some of you know.  I believe they were called fish tail joints in actuality but these are just simplified squared off mortises which will be fine.  For those folks who have more experience and want to create the fish tail joints instead, that will be very easy to do with just a slight modification to the laser etched notches I am using in this kit.   
 
Remember, this is my throw-away test prototype.  I want to get two more frames done and see how the sweep port framing goes and how the scupper tubes fit.  Once that is done I will discard this mess and start over.   Not to mention that after a few tweaks in the concept and build sequence the next iteration will be much better.  I learned a great deal and its almost time for phase two...I will start posting more details at that time once I get this preliminary testing done.  
 
One quick note....I am well aware that other folks creating drafts and making kits dont do this kind of up front work.  Its just something I feel I have to do before releasing anything.  I am constantly making little tweaks that make everything hopefully just a little bit better. This is the cherry version by the way, but I am still going back and forth about using the new wood on the finished one which I will start in a few weeks.  Just a little more testing to do!!!
 

 

 
  

The guns should be very fun! And not to hard. 
I had a little time today so I atleast got the plastics ready. 

yes....you made me chuckle.........thanks for the fine comments everyone     getting out of work @ 3:30 in the afternoon...{a little after 4:00,  I walk through the door} is kinda nice.  now if I can just get through with all the nuances that I've been fielding so far,  I might be able to think about doing something on the models again.   it's been a while since I've done anything during the work week.......always too dragged out and tired.
 
correct Lou........herringbone.   amazing how quickly the planking went doing it this way.
 
good idea Piet........for those who want to freefall,  strap on a 2 x 4..........it should work well      
 
thanks OC......all in the way I cut the planking.  I hardly made any adjustments at all  
 
thanks Michael!  I can't wait to see a finish on it!   for the calking,  I got the idea from our wonderful moderators,  John and Danny.......archive pens.   I get mine from Hobby Lobby,  and have a variety of different tips { I use three of them}.   one time,  I got stupid and left the cap loose,  and almost ruined the pen.  but I bought a bottle of India Ink,  and a couple of squirts revived the pen.

it won't soak into the wood like magic marker.   I stain the planking before I apply it to the edges.
 
I had to do a dry fit after the deck was trimmed.   I was also curious how much of the deck showed outside of the second level structure.   I like what shows  

I'm pretty sure that the center line is correct......although the dividing wall inside the structure doesn't agree.   I think it makes a nice floor pattern inside.

I may omit the window on both sides,   where the smoke stacks will be placed.  it doesn't make sense to have them showing.   I took these the other day.   thanks again for the kind comments........and thanks to all who hit the like button   

And even Normal Rockwell painted selfies..