kostas_gr

Corel's kit is providing brass holders for the deck pillars that actually dont look very nice, so I have tried to replace them with wooden holders.

The first try was much better than the original pillars, but the result is not what I was expecting, so I tried to add some woodwork to make them look ore realistic (final attempt)

5 decks, with 6 pillars each.... 30 pillars...

A far view with all decks

some picturew from upper deck

making the rigging of the cannons in middle deck, just before the rope coils

Middle deck is ready

Cargohold almost ready, balast and barrels are in place

Preparing stones to add ballast in cargohold. I cleaned them first and oiled them later to get more vivid color

I will prefer the grey or black stones, but I will use multiple colors. I will place larger stones on bottom, and smaller on top. I am gluing them one by one. 

rigging the gun carriages of lower gun deck

preparing the rigging for the gun ports, looking below the middle gun deck

lower deck with water pumps in place

Tables for the lower deck

preparing lower deck cannons and pump

building the hanging knees to support decks

I have modified the stairs, I have trimmed the vertical base of the step to look thinner and I have rounded the steps

I really need to find those Artesania's micro tools!!!

browsing erebus and terror build log, I have decided to install crates right beside the entry ports

closer pics from hull, while I am planking middle deck

first gunhole is ready

middle deck

Osmosis you are more than welcome to follow my build

Lower deck

Orlop deck

I have decided not to use treenails for the orlop deck, but I will the 'rule of 4" for the deck planking (as I used this rule for the hull planking)

the cabin above the pump house, with a door half open

after finishing hull rib, and install pump house etc, I made a mistake and I had to remove it

I had to rebuild it again, but it was very hard to put it again where it was, so I cut it in two parts and tried to install it

as it shown in picture there are gaps. Those gaps will be not shown when is finished because of the rocks I will place in cargohold

creating hull ribs using balsa wood

I have always wanted  to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale.

I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated.

some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs

Thank you very much Thanasis, too bad we didnt meet each other this year.

This contest had some excellent ships that with very high level of details.

tung oil is thick, looks like syrup/honey  rather like oil.

at the first phase, I am applying a lot of it, quickly and letting it for 15 mins, in some cases you have to apply more, the goal is to keep model wet, dont let it dry because it will be hard to be removed.

After 15 mins or a bit more with a very soft clothe (microfiber clothe worked for me), you wipe out all the tung oil from your model, you have to be take it all out, until the wood have this perfect silk..ish touch. Remove it all, and let it rest for a couple of days or more.

At the second phase, you repeat the step, but you will find out that now the wood does not "drinks" the tung oil very fast, keep it wet once again (you will not have to apply that much this time), after 15 mins (and without letting it dry) you wipe it out with the soft clothe.

In my first build (san juan nepomuceno) I have used tung oil in every wooden part, but took me a lot of time to wipe it out from smaller parts. In my second build I have used it only for large parts (hull, decks, masts), for the rest part I have used baby Johnson oil, thicker than castor oil & easier than tung oil, with an average look/patina.