jbshan
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jbshan got a reaction from BETAQDAVE in Nuestra Señora del Pilar by Anja & Sjors - FINISHED - OcCre - Scale 1:46
Marcus, just to expand on your choices, and not to imply anything of the sort could have happened to Anja, a friend of mine was transporting a fairly large model of a small rowing boat and set the model down while he opened the back of the car to load it. He got distracted and failed to load the model before he backed out of the driveway. It took him a few years to get over the trauma.
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jbshan got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Lexington by jbshan - The Lumberyard - 1/64 - from the Seaways Practicum by Clay Feldman
OK, Martin. Here's one showing the quarter light with a boat and officer to give scale. I made a scraper/shaper to form the moldings. The light is a little different from the one Clay used. I checked my books and this one seemed appropriate.
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jbshan got a reaction from Larry Cowden in Lexington by jbshan - The Lumberyard - 1/64 - from the Seaways Practicum by Clay Feldman
Here's what I have for the stern lights.
The top assembly is the outer frame, what you see on the model.
The lower assembly is the inner frame. This fits in from the back, so you only see the edges of it.
The slots are to take the mullions and muntins for the individual panes of glass. I made these of heavy thread as I doubted my ability to work so small in wood, though the quarter lights have changed my mind on that.
Once the cross pieces were in place, on top of those (behind both the frames and mullions) I glued small pieces of mica or isinglass, once used in wood stoves for little windows, and earlier used for lights on ships, fancy that. I used fly fishing head cement which is clear, almost liquid, does not have the white powder you get with CA, and merely adds to the character of the mica sheet. I also used it to glue in the thread, and to glue the joints in the thread.
Since the backing for this whole area is almost touching, I painted the backing black, which allows the mica just enough reflection so it shows nicely, I think.
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jbshan got a reaction from Larry Cowden in Lexington by jbshan - The Lumberyard - 1/64 - from the Seaways Practicum by Clay Feldman
Here's about the earliest one, clamping a batten for the sheer. The top and bottom blocking for the ports is in. The kit is the standard 'egg crate' construction. It is a square tuck stern so pretty simple back there.
I learned building Niagara by Model Shipways to block in the ports between the frames. It locates them securely and really stiffens things up. I ran battens for the top and bottom lines of the ports then measured for locations fore n' aft. One each side needed the frame to be cut right out, about midships. The third back needed the frame cut, but had blocking adjacent on the fore side to support the edge. The forward ports had to be at an angle because of the curve in toward the bows and that angle had to be allowed for.
I make the blocking proud of the frames, then sand back to a smooth surface. The blocking makes putting in the port lining much easier later on. This vessel has the plank basically following the ports, but I would think this method would help with those where the plank does not line up, and easier than trying to measure each port out and cut already installed planking.
I may remember more as we go but this is it for now on these pics.
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jbshan got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Lexington by jbshan - The Lumberyard - 1/64 - from the Seaways Practicum by Clay Feldman
I have a series of pics taken while work was in progress which illustrate techniques I have not seen in other logs. I also have not seen, even after a search of the site, this particular model. I would be happy to post these pics, with comments of course, in sequence if others think it would be helpful.
Past this point, I have built tops. There is also a scratch-built yawl, visible on deck, done in a novel manner.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in CONSTITUTION c. 1812 by samueljr - scale 1:76.8 - cross-section
The placing of ports one above the other bothered me, too, so I checked a little bit. I think because the upper deck ports are on a spar deck and not part of the original structure of the hull, indeed some wind up directly above the gun deck ports, especially in the waist.
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jbshan got a reaction from CaptainSteve in CONSTITUTION c. 1812 by samueljr - scale 1:76.8 - cross-section
The placing of ports one above the other bothered me, too, so I checked a little bit. I think because the upper deck ports are on a spar deck and not part of the original structure of the hull, indeed some wind up directly above the gun deck ports, especially in the waist.
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jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Below the catharpins, I believe, Darrell. They are sort of a ladder strung between the P & S shrouds, also there is a safety net out on the bowsprit.
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jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Just beware that some of the stuff between the shrouds is modern safety stuff. Check some of the books to see what should not be there on a period ship.
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jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Just a little cap, Mike; big enough to cover the end of your thumb. It's in one or other of your books.
Darrell, I just thought you'd like to know what you've been missing.
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jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
I do not in any way recommend this
I do not in any way recommend this,
but the ratlines historically ended with a spliced eye that was lashed to the outer shrouds. Also, the end of the shrouds, after being lashed to the upper deadeye, had a little leather cap, 'to keep their heads warm and dry', as one of my correspondents says.
Try either one of those and your eyes will certainly cross.
I do not in any way recommend this
I do not in any way recommend this
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jbshan got a reaction from vossiewulf in Hull plank length
Some of the 30 ships' program, after completion, Lenox, for example, were moored in places where they could ground by a few feet at each low tide. This resulted in a band of plank that was constantly being dried, then wet, then dry, then wet. Rot of that band of plank was the result. They didn't indeed receive the care they should have, both because of the neglect of their caretaker crews and the lack of funds to effect appropriate repairs. Indeed some of the repairs that were done did nothing to help, but encased the rot so it could flourish. There is a book on Lenox, 'Restoration Warship', by Richard Ensor, that goes into this at fair length.
As to plank length, Vasa, in her lower deck plank is nothing if not expedient. There are various lengths and widths, even small 'plugs' inset. I have not seen a hull plank plan, I don't think it has been published yet, but all of the remaining decking is shown on the plans included with the first volume of the official publication.
The big thing with plank length, as somebody has mentioned, is that the butts must be on frames or beams, so the length will have to be adjusted somewhat to match that spacing. In other words, '25 feet' is a guide, and probably more of a lower limit than an absolute figure.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Hull plank length
Some of the 30 ships' program, after completion, Lenox, for example, were moored in places where they could ground by a few feet at each low tide. This resulted in a band of plank that was constantly being dried, then wet, then dry, then wet. Rot of that band of plank was the result. They didn't indeed receive the care they should have, both because of the neglect of their caretaker crews and the lack of funds to effect appropriate repairs. Indeed some of the repairs that were done did nothing to help, but encased the rot so it could flourish. There is a book on Lenox, 'Restoration Warship', by Richard Ensor, that goes into this at fair length.
As to plank length, Vasa, in her lower deck plank is nothing if not expedient. There are various lengths and widths, even small 'plugs' inset. I have not seen a hull plank plan, I don't think it has been published yet, but all of the remaining decking is shown on the plans included with the first volume of the official publication.
The big thing with plank length, as somebody has mentioned, is that the butts must be on frames or beams, so the length will have to be adjusted somewhat to match that spacing. In other words, '25 feet' is a guide, and probably more of a lower limit than an absolute figure.
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jbshan reacted to mikiek in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
I did finish up the first band and began on the second. Then decided I better lay some planks on the other side. Very strange, for some reason the CA wasn't setting. I literally held down on one frame for 5 minutes. Lifted my thumb up and the stick popped right up. Reapplied the CA held it down for a while let go and it popped again. Arrow just about went airborne at that point so I'm calling it a night.
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jbshan got a reaction from husky1943 in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Starch or paint over a form or shaped by hand comes to mind. Milliners use a wire edging they bend to shape and the fabric holds the shape.
Here's the wire, note it is wrapped with thread.
Here is a hat. I suspect the petal shapes have wire in their edges as the fabric is too sheer for starch and not stiff enough to hold on its own.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
If the deck edge seems a nice fair curve, perhaps the solution is to pad out where needed on the bulkheads to match the deck edge. Add a shape like this: (( to the bulkhead and sand back to get a nice curve.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
Just keep on a plankin', Mike. Try to keep the variations going, too. Grab a few full length ones of different colors and make sure to switch back n' forth from plank to plank.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
There is some variation there. Perhaps the OCD kicking in preventing you from seeing it. Haliburton has a good idea to try.
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jbshan got a reaction from Piet in IJN Musashi by cog - Tamiya - 1:350 - PLASTIC - old tool
And it all gets covered up with gray paint. Almost seems a shame. The old line-of-battle ships, at least all that gleams might have actually been gold.
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jbshan got a reaction from DocBlake in Mast bands and rope wouldings
They are certainly for reinforcing a 'made mast'; a ship with pole masts wouldn't necessarily need them. Where that change occurred would depend on the sizes of spars available and the capacity of the yard to do the work. A place with lots of tall straight spars possibly would use a pole mast to a larger size than one that had to import everything.
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jbshan got a reaction from druxey in deck planking shift
Kurt, once you have the plank between the hatches, etc. in, then you have to work out to the waterway and forward and aft to the hood ends of the plank. I don't think there's much advantage to one direction or the other. I have found you need to come in from the waterways and aft from the bows, sort of together, as one blends into the other. Eventually you'll have a gap sort of in the middle of the deck somewhere and you can adjust the widths of the last remaining planks to fit without making it too obvious how you got there. The old boys had the complication that some strakes of plank were thicker and let down into the deck beams to keep the top surface even. Just keep in mind that you need to have your joints on the beams, not simply cut off to match some artificial requirement of length. If a plank needs to be 18" shorter or longer, just go ahead and make that one different. It makes things less even and more realistic.
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jbshan got a reaction from druxey in Mast bands and rope wouldings
They are certainly for reinforcing a 'made mast'; a ship with pole masts wouldn't necessarily need them. Where that change occurred would depend on the sizes of spars available and the capacity of the yard to do the work. A place with lots of tall straight spars possibly would use a pole mast to a larger size than one that had to import everything.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in deck planking shift
Kurt, once you have the plank between the hatches, etc. in, then you have to work out to the waterway and forward and aft to the hood ends of the plank. I don't think there's much advantage to one direction or the other. I have found you need to come in from the waterways and aft from the bows, sort of together, as one blends into the other. Eventually you'll have a gap sort of in the middle of the deck somewhere and you can adjust the widths of the last remaining planks to fit without making it too obvious how you got there. The old boys had the complication that some strakes of plank were thicker and let down into the deck beams to keep the top surface even. Just keep in mind that you need to have your joints on the beams, not simply cut off to match some artificial requirement of length. If a plank needs to be 18" shorter or longer, just go ahead and make that one different. It makes things less even and more realistic.
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jbshan reacted to Chuck in deck planking shift
You are correct....best not to show seams between hatches or fittings. They werent needed as one length would do teh trick and be much stronger.
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jbshan got a reaction from Old Collingwood in IJN Musashi by cog - Tamiya - 1:350 - PLASTIC - old tool
And it all gets covered up with gray paint. Almost seems a shame. The old line-of-battle ships, at least all that gleams might have actually been gold.
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