amateur

small update:
 
the upper brass profiles on the railing are carrying base for the mahagoni handrails (glue on with CA)
 
Nils
 

the U-type brass mini- profiles give stable strength to the fragile upper railing wire
 
 

like here on the aft ship railing
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

This one, for instance
You see the typical design of the bomschuit: it is like a box...
They were designed to get ashore at high tide, so that they could be unloaded and serviced at low tide.
This because many of the fishing villages at the northsea did not have a harbour (completely impossible to dug a harbour in the flat sandy beaches.
 
Jan

Some updates ...

I checked on the internet, it is different: the model is only showing the inside!
Great model to look at when finished!
 
Jan

Airships are also ships
Question: the drawings show the construction as build (the framework of the body, the ribs in the wings, with the cut-outs to keep the weight low)
Is the kit also 'as build', or is it only showing the outside of the plane as it was?
 
Jan

Hi Hans,
 
This is a topic getting quite a lot of interest in the Vasa forum: Fred Hocker states that the frames are not vertical in that area of the ship, and that the gunport-sides are not coinciding with the frames.
Besides: when looked at exactly at 90-degree, the aft gunports of Vasa are indeed not completely square, but it is the angle of the picture that suggests more than there actually s. Most of the gunports of Wasa are (almost perfectly) square and not trapezoid....
see this drawing (issued by the Wasa-museum) http://forum.game-labs.net/index.php?/topic/4220-wasa-1628-swedish-warship-with-plans/
 
 
Jan
 

In the cross sections drwan of the hollandisvhe zweidecker, you can see that there is no need for ventilatipn: these orts are on the same deck as the windows. Above. Also you can see they are in exactly the same height above deck as the ports in the side. These ports are intended as gunports.
 
Jan

Hi Carl,
 
in answer to your earlier question, I would like to provide this illustration :
 
this is what the funnel guy wires will be like, here I started with funnel 3 + 4
The steel wires are 0,3 mm diam. normaly used for wire controlled model aircraft. The fact that they are tin-galvanized coated provides excellent soldering possibilities. The buckle screws are smallest I could find (M1,4 left /right thread), I blackened these chemically.
The small center drilled nickel beads are from a fashion jewelery store
 
Nils
 

 

The case is finished and carefully pulled over the model, sealing in the model for forever (I hope).  Now I just need to find the time to take it to my Dad who lives 3 hours away.  I'm sure he will love it (he has no clue that I am going to give it to him).  Anyways, here are the pics.....

The cross section is finished.  I made the crutches from brass square stock and painted them black and then installed them on the gangways.  I then installed the gangways on the cross section along with the ladders.  Put a coat of wipe on poly on and attached it to the base with three short pieces of 1/16" brass rod.  I also made a case to go over the model.  The base and case is made from pine.  I have apply cherry stain to the base and I will also stain the case with cherry.  The case will be attached to the base with some 1/16" brass rod to keep it from sliding around.  Anyways, here are the pictures.  I will post some of the case once that is completed.

There are some 17/18th century shipwreck on display in the Netherlands.
The surviving hullplanks inthese wrecks show a large range of variation with respect to framing, planking, dropplanks (just ening in a sharp pointy end),
placement of butt-joints, use of scarf-jounts etcetera. Almost none of these correspond to the existing witten texts on plaking from that era.....
Lesson: shipbuilders tend to be pragmatic, and using their materials as economically as the customer would allow.
It is mainly (English) navy that tended to adhere to strict rule (at least: on paper an din the dockyard models, no idea whether or not that extended to real ships as well.....)
 
Jan

There are some 17/18th century shipwreck on display in the Netherlands.
The surviving hullplanks inthese wrecks show a large range of variation with respect to framing, planking, dropplanks (just ening in a sharp pointy end),
placement of butt-joints, use of scarf-jounts etcetera. Almost none of these correspond to the existing witten texts on plaking from that era.....
Lesson: shipbuilders tend to be pragmatic, and using their materials as economically as the customer would allow.
It is mainly (English) navy that tended to adhere to strict rule (at least: on paper an din the dockyard models, no idea whether or not that extended to real ships as well.....)
 
Jan

Goldleaf is always used on a red base coat, just for the same reasons.
looking good, this coat of arms.
 
jan

Goldleaf is always used on a red base coat, just for the same reasons.
looking good, this coat of arms.
 
jan

Goldleaf is always used on a red base coat, just for the same reasons.
looking good, this coat of arms.
 
jan

Hi, thanks for to all the likes.
 
Continuing on, I have fitted the port bow and a side skin. Progress shot of where it is at right now.
 

 
The side skin; which during the fitting dry run was a perfect fit but of course once glue is involved it was slightly off but nothing some judicious trimming and colouring with watercolours couldn't fix and I am happy with the way it is shaping up.
 

 
With both bow skins fitted, which was actually worse than the starboard side and again hoping the lower belt hides most of the issues, the front is closed off and both anchor shelves completed which turned out not to bad.  The centre join looks okay with the naked eye and the photo-etch eagle crest and the lower belts with a torpedo hatch should cover up most of the rest of the join.
 

 
That's enough skinning for this swing.  I find doing hull skins laborious and feels like I push my luck if try to do to much in one sitting.
 
Cheers
Slog
 

Thanks for all the nice comments guys and everyone for the likes.
 
 
Grant I have thought about soldering but don’t have a soldering iron at the moment.  I have had a play around previously with the soldering torch but remembering the wire is only 0.2mm in diameter it was difficult to heat it up without destroying it!  Too gentle approach to save the wire affected the silver solder paste as it didn’t really get up to temperature.
 
There was a couple of times where it just flashed the wire enough not to destroy it but enough to get the silver solder paste to flow but the window of opportunity is very small.  I also tried using rosin core solder but it didn’t like the torch at all.  The plan is to get a soldering iron and some solid solder and a flux paste/fluid and play around again.
 
The problem comes down to holding the wire in place as it is so small just touch it wrong with the tweezers and it ejects itself across the room.  For a different project making up a grill with 0.5mm wire which I can easily silver solder I tried taping down all the pieces but of course it burned off with the torch and I guess the fumes contaminated the joints as the silver solder failed to hold.  I will certainly try playing around when I get a soldering iron.
 
Incidentally I could have done the handrails by bending the 2 outer supports from the handrail and would only need to worry about the centre stub which doesn’t need to be a strong joint as the handrail and 2 outer stubs would be one piece and self-supporting.  Hindsight is a wonderful thing LOL
 
 
Okay next bit of progress is structure 16 and all the parts are shown below.  I haven’t gone into much detail as the construction is essentially the same as the previous structure 15 posted earlier.  It was a bit more complicated due to all the ins and outs and I am not as happy with how it turned out compared to assembly 15.
 
Several of the side skins were over length and needed to be trimmed considerably to fit; also I ended up cutting instead of folding some parts to make fitment easier.
 

 
 
Here is a photo of the completed structure; doors? check, portholes? check, windows? check.  The only different items on this structure are the addition of some handles on the end.  I did double check to make sure these are vertical and not the expected horizontal of step irons!
 

 
 
My first fabrication of step irons (or handles in this case). These are 0.2mm diameter wire which I annealed using the soldering torch as this brass just snaps if you try to do too tight of a bend otherwise.  I checked the distance between the pin pricked holes with the digital callipers and then went around measuring everything I could think of to match the width.  It turns out two 6” steel rules gripped together was perfect.
 
The rulers were pressed down on to the wire and the legs folded up and then given a squeeze with tweezers.  The over long legs were trimmed back a bit with nail clippers.  The legs were fed into the pin pricked holes and a 0.5mm drill bit was placed in the hoop and the step iron pressed home for a consistent distance.
 

 
 
Here is the cheapo water colours I used to paint the iron work.  It goes on so much easier to the tiny wires than brush painting Tamiya paint and dries to a more complementary black also.  You can also use this type of paints for edge colouring but at the moment the PITT pens are easier and more convenient for me.
 

 
Final shot of it in its spot.  I have also temporally placed the 3rd of the 3 skylights, which were made previously.
 

 
I only have 3 more days before I fly out again so will continue working on the sub-assemblies.
 
Cheers
Slog

I thought she was still in Utrecht at the moment?
 
Jan

Boskoop has also long gone.
It's Velp that remained.....
 
Jan

There are some 17/18th century shipwreck on display in the Netherlands.
The surviving hullplanks inthese wrecks show a large range of variation with respect to framing, planking, dropplanks (just ening in a sharp pointy end),
placement of butt-joints, use of scarf-jounts etcetera. Almost none of these correspond to the existing witten texts on plaking from that era.....
Lesson: shipbuilders tend to be pragmatic, and using their materials as economically as the customer would allow.
It is mainly (English) navy that tended to adhere to strict rule (at least: on paper an din the dockyard models, no idea whether or not that extended to real ships as well.....)
 
Jan

There are some 17/18th century shipwreck on display in the Netherlands.
The surviving hullplanks inthese wrecks show a large range of variation with respect to framing, planking, dropplanks (just ening in a sharp pointy end),
placement of butt-joints, use of scarf-jounts etcetera. Almost none of these correspond to the existing witten texts on plaking from that era.....
Lesson: shipbuilders tend to be pragmatic, and using their materials as economically as the customer would allow.
It is mainly (English) navy that tended to adhere to strict rule (at least: on paper an din the dockyard models, no idea whether or not that extended to real ships as well.....)
 
Jan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 201 – Lower Mast Coats
 
When I decided to wedge the masts with pieced wedges, it was clear that some sort of mast coats would be required to cover the openings between wedges – not to keep out water as in real life practice, but to simulate the real coats and to improve the appearance at the bases of the masts.
 
Apart from terse descriptions, there was not a lot to go on in making these.  My usual search through photos gave some ideas, but ultimately the solution came from the question, "What would I do to make a watertight canvas 'flashing' over the mast wedges?"  I am comforted by the thought that many ships' carpenters asked similar questions – and came up with a variety of solutions - as the few pictures I have seen illustrate.
 
The canvas for the model coats is tissue and in the first picture a strip of this is being wound around the glue-coated main mast and its wedging.
 

 
Several strips were used with plenty of glue and not too much effort to smooth out the result.  Canvas would most definitely have wrinkles when forced into the required shape.  The next picture shows rope being tied around the top to clinch it tightly around the mast.
 

 
In practice the coat would have been caulked and tacked around the mast and deck, but rope cinches would keep it from tearing out from the nails and risking damage to the high-value cargo these ships often carried.
 
At the bottom, a flange was simulated using card and fitted around the mast at the base as shown in the next picture.
 

 
When this was glued in place and allowed to dry, a second rope cinch was added at the base.  The next picture shows the coat being "tarred" with fairly thick, dark grey, artists' acrylic paint,
 

 
After drying the coat was brushed with black, thinned, acrylic wash to highlight the wrinkles in the canvas and the ropes as shown below.
 

 
Those that have been following the project will note that the glistening brass pump wheels, by now well tarnished and lacking their original appeal, have been painted.  Next job for the painters, the equally tarnished poop monkey rail.
 
Other true followers may also notice in the picture that I have finally gotten around to adding the central posts to the fore and aft fife rails that were previously omitted.
 
 
Ed
 
 


 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

That's something quite different and interesting!
Jan

Ah, well, getting blind, I guess.......
Thanks anyhow

B.E.
 
A thanks for what you're doing.  I was expecting the "executive summary" like many of did after the Big Crash of '13.   This is very well done.   I'm happy to see it back as I'll be using some of your methods (especially the boats) on my build.