amateur

Stropping a building block ....?
 
Jan

indeed I meant every word.  I enjoy the company.
 
As promised here are some step by step for making those pesky boom crutches.  Its important to start with an extra thick piece and cut the crutches out so the tail is extra wide also.
 
You will soon see why.
 
I find it easier to concentrate on one angle at a time.  To get these pieces positioned properly you must get the four angles done separately....one step at a time.
 
Start by filing the fashion piece flush with the cap rail.
 

 
Then viewing the boom crutch from the stern try and establish the correct first angle.  This would be the angle of the fashion piece along the transom as shown below in green.  You do this by filing the bottom of the crutch stem.
 

 
Then turn your attention to the angle when viewing the crutch from the side.  You are trying again to establish the fore/aft angle of the fashion piece as shown below.  This is why you made the crutch so much wider and cut it out of 1/4" thick boxwood.  Sand it to shape with a file.
 

 
Then.....we have to make the boom crutch face the lower mast.   On most models I see they are facing forward or even outboard.  This wouldnt serve its purpose to well.   The reason for making the stem of the crutch wider is so you can turn the crutch to face the mast.  Note how the fore edge of the crutch is flush with the fashion piece...BUT the aft corner hangs off the fashion piece.  Mark the aft side of the boom crutch as shown below and file this bevel into the outboard edge.  The round crutch remains untouched.  You are only beveling the stem.   Then also bevel the inboard edge of the stem to complete it.
 

 

 
Its at this stage where I glued it in position.   Then I filed and sanded it further to shape.  I filled the joint with wood filler and sanded it smooth so the crutch and fashion piece looked like one piece.  Thank God it is going to be painted black.  The last angle we should concern ourselves with is the angle of the top of the crutches when viewed at the side.  This is easier done while it is glued into position.
 
See the angles established in red so the crutches match the sheer or are at least level rather than slanting upwards.  This is important and the bottom of the crutch....inside the crutch should also be addressed and angled downward slightly or at least leveled off if need be.  Think about how the boom would REST in each crutch when establishing the angle inside the crutch.
 

 
When you are done....do it all over again on the other side and try very hard to get a matching pair.  Note how the stems are not very long and the crutches are so very close to the top of the transom.  If you hide the seam well and paint it the results are very convincing.  You will no doubt have many parts added to the waste pile as I did.  These are a bit tricky. 

better than a shoddy Billings-kit!
 
Jan

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 119 – Main Deck Cabin 1
 
It has been quite a while since my last posting to this log in April.  Work on the book, drafting for the next phases, and taking the 1:96 POB version to a more complete state has filled the intervening time.  I had decided to leave both models at the level of completion covered in Volume I of the book for display at the NRG conference.  Work on the 1:72 framed model has now resumed – I hope in earnest.
 
I started fabrication work on the main deck cabin in August and some of that work is shown below. This large cabin housed the crew, the galley, and perhaps other things.  Boats were stored on skid beams on the roof.  I will be the first to admit that this finicky, small-piece, detail work is not my forte.  I am much more at home with beams, clamps and futtocks, but I will describe the method.  The first picture shows wall panels for the ends of the cabin.
 

 
These were made by edge gluing planks that had the outer edges beveled – to simulate lapped planking.  The pieces were glued up on waxed paper, with the first plank curved against pins to match the round-up of the deck. The panels were run through the thickness sander to remove excess glue on the inside.  They have a first coat of white paint on the outside.  These two have been drilled at the widow openings.  In the next picture these openings are been cut square.
 

 
After marking out, this work was started with a chisel and finished off with a flat file.  The next picture shows the two panels painted and with the window framing and inside structural members installed.
 

 
Lacking specific original detail, I framed the cabin much like a house, but with heavier members – 4x4 studs capped by a long 4x4 plate to support the 4x10 beams with knees that will be added later.  I found examples of this type of construction in later wooden vessels.
 
I had to decide whether to enclose the cabin completely or leave some of it open to reveal the deck framing below.  I decided on the latter course, leaving out internal detail that would further hide the structure below.  The next picture shows work on the long, starboard side wall.
 

 
On all of these wall panels, the siding was painted before installing the trim.  In the picture, door openings were cut out and filled with panels that would eventually be trimmed out with small pieces to simulate doors.  The next picture shows inside framing on this panel.
 

 
The 4x4 studs are left long at the bottom to “bolt” into the base coaming.  The next picture shows the finished wall panel.
 

 
The panel for this wall was made to match the curve of the deck sheer by curving the planks as they were edge glued.  Door jambs, paneling and simple hardware were added to the base panel shown above. All of the windows and doors are fitted with sliding storm panels that could be closed for protection in heavy weather.  Paint was scraped from under these details to ensure good glue joints. 
 
 In the next picture the side wall is clamped in position and the forward end panel is being fitted for size.
 

 
The next picture shows the side wall being glued in place to the coaming.
 

 
The wall is being held in position using pine wedges to force wood strips against the feet of the studs.  The last picture shows the port side wall framing being assembled - studs and plate only at this stage.
 

 
This structure will be left open on the port side.  It will be very fragile until all of the framing is added.  The heavy timber across the bottom is temporary and has been added to support the structure until installed.  It is held to the studs using the paste stick-glue that I use on patterns.
 
To be continued….
 
Ed

better than a shoddy Billings-kit!
 
Jan

Hi Piet,
 
With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull.
 
You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia)

 
With respect to the railing: did you think of  (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)?
http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748
 
Jan

Ah well, the Spanish. You could see it the other way round: not much to get for the Spanish over here, so why invest in a military campaign.
Just mudd and water
 
Jan

Interesting view:
Even more interesting question: if this was indeed a succesfull invasion and occupation, why didn't reach OUR historybooks?
Dutch interpretation (as far as I understood) is more that William was used by the English protestant royalists to solve their, entirely English, problem. 
 
Jan

better than a shoddy Billings-kit!
 
Jan

better than a shoddy Billings-kit!
 
Jan

better than a shoddy Billings-kit!
 
Jan

Many thanks for all "likes"    
 
After prolonged reflection I will furnish only the large cabin and the pavilion with interiors. Added to this are the stairs to the cabin and the foredeck
 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut

Hi Piet,
 
With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull.
 
You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia)

 
With respect to the railing: did you think of  (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)?
http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748
 
Jan

Hi Piet,
 
With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull.
 
You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia)

 
With respect to the railing: did you think of  (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)?
http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748
 
Jan

Hi Piet,
 
With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull.
 
You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia)

 
With respect to the railing: did you think of  (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)?
http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748
 
Jan

Hi Piet,
 
With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull.
 
You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia)

 
With respect to the railing: did you think of  (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)?
http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748
 
Jan

Or (but you can only do that when the backside is out of sight, or should be painted), use woodglue to stick a piece of paper to the backside, instead of the masking tape.
One other that worked fo me (but I did - nicely aligned and square - windows in a tugboat) is to use a very thin drill to mark the endpoints of the cut, and place a second cut on the backside of the wood.
And try using a small as possible knife. I like the swan morton no 11 blade. Designed a a surgical knife, sharp enough to separate your fingertips from where they belong, but also very, very thin at the tip.
 
Jan

Frohlich also shows it in his book 'the art of modelling'.
He makes one side remark (which you already know, of course): the method will not do for models with a tumblehome (i.e. don't have their widest point at the top of the frames, but on deck-, or waterlinelevel.)
 
Jan

Or (but you can only do that when the backside is out of sight, or should be painted), use woodglue to stick a piece of paper to the backside, instead of the masking tape.
One other that worked fo me (but I did - nicely aligned and square - windows in a tugboat) is to use a very thin drill to mark the endpoints of the cut, and place a second cut on the backside of the wood.
And try using a small as possible knife. I like the swan morton no 11 blade. Designed a a surgical knife, sharp enough to separate your fingertips from where they belong, but also very, very thin at the tip.
 
Jan

Or (but you can only do that when the backside is out of sight, or should be painted), use woodglue to stick a piece of paper to the backside, instead of the masking tape.
One other that worked fo me (but I did - nicely aligned and square - windows in a tugboat) is to use a very thin drill to mark the endpoints of the cut, and place a second cut on the backside of the wood.
And try using a small as possible knife. I like the swan morton no 11 blade. Designed a a surgical knife, sharp enough to separate your fingertips from where they belong, but also very, very thin at the tip.
 
Jan

A small electric drill (proxxon/dremel/minicraft) will be very helpfull.
Don't ask which one, because everyone is sure his is the best.
 
A couple of good knives (I like the swann morton very much)
 
Perhaps a soldering iron (or, as some will explain, a soldering torch is better)
 
Can't help you beyond that, becuase I don't have more experience than that myself
 
Jan

Yours does pass the "standing horse test"
 
Jan

A small electric drill (proxxon/dremel/minicraft) will be very helpfull.
Don't ask which one, because everyone is sure his is the best.
 
A couple of good knives (I like the swann morton very much)
 
Perhaps a soldering iron (or, as some will explain, a soldering torch is better)
 
Can't help you beyond that, becuase I don't have more experience than that myself
 
Jan

A small electric drill (proxxon/dremel/minicraft) will be very helpfull.
Don't ask which one, because everyone is sure his is the best.
 
A couple of good knives (I like the swann morton very much)
 
Perhaps a soldering iron (or, as some will explain, a soldering torch is better)
 
Can't help you beyond that, becuase I don't have more experience than that myself
 
Jan

May I give you a suggestion?
The shrouds ( the lines form deadeye to masttop) are normally way thicker than the lanyards (the rope between the deadeyes).
I guess it woudl contribute to the looks of your model if you used thicker rope for the shrouds.
 
Jan