amateur

Hi Bob,
 
Although I admire your knowledge and your equipment (guess you also use it for models, bur couldn’t find anything of that work here at msw), I wonder whether you make things more difficult than necessary: you can draw ideal lines, but I guess (never tried myself) that slightly less ideal would also work. The final fairing is done when frames are set up in the model so the use of a simple pencil and ruler and a basic set of curves should do for a beginner.
 
I have even seen an admiralty type of model without lofting, using just station lines. Also Mccaffery uses such a method for his small-scale models: he cleverly builds up a layered block, and shapes it as if it were a solid hull modell. Requires some thinking and preparation, but it works without any curves or dawing let alone drafting.
 
Jan

The limited edition (numbered 1-999) of last years launch is still available on their website
Relaunch to get rid of the unsold stock?
 
Jan
 

The limited edition (numbered 1-999) of last years launch is still available on their website
Relaunch to get rid of the unsold stock?
 
Jan
 

The limited edition (numbered 1-999) of last years launch is still available on their website
Relaunch to get rid of the unsold stock?
 
Jan
 

The limited edition (numbered 1-999) of last years launch is still available on their website
Relaunch to get rid of the unsold stock?
 
Jan
 

The limited edition (numbered 1-999) of last years launch is still available on their website
Relaunch to get rid of the unsold stock?
 
Jan
 

The limited edition (numbered 1-999) of last years launch is still available on their website
Relaunch to get rid of the unsold stock?
 
Jan
 

Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece.  (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model?
 
Jan

Clear gloss coat gives it a little depth….

Now you need to build a ship around them. Those guns are stunningly real.
 
Jan

Now you need to build a ship around them. Those guns are stunningly real.
 
Jan

I think it's safe to say we do!

Just an observation: there is never any dust in any of your pictures.
Do you have a dust control-system in your workshop, or do you start each day by meticulously picking up all specs of dust from your bench and models by hand?
 
Jan
 

Just an observation: there is never any dust in any of your pictures.
Do you have a dust control-system in your workshop, or do you start each day by meticulously picking up all specs of dust from your bench and models by hand?
 
Jan
 

The vacuum cleaner is always next to me.
I have already developed a conditioned reflex and at the first opportunity, after completing one or another operation, I turn on my electric assistant.  

Just an observation: there is never any dust in any of your pictures.
Do you have a dust control-system in your workshop, or do you start each day by meticulously picking up all specs of dust from your bench and models by hand?
 
Jan
 

Just an observation: there is never any dust in any of your pictures.
Do you have a dust control-system in your workshop, or do you start each day by meticulously picking up all specs of dust from your bench and models by hand?
 
Jan
 

Just an observation: there is never any dust in any of your pictures.
Do you have a dust control-system in your workshop, or do you start each day by meticulously picking up all specs of dust from your bench and models by hand?
 
Jan
 

Thank you, Eberhard! I'm fine. Work on the model continues.  

Now you need to build a ship around them. Those guns are stunningly real.
 
Jan

Now you need to build a ship around them. Those guns are stunningly real.
 
Jan

Now you need to build a ship around them. Those guns are stunningly real.
 
Jan

You learn something new every day. I never realized there was this 'slack' in the antennae.
Looks great (as everything you show us does)
 
Jan

You learn something new every day. I never realized there was this 'slack' in the antennae.
Looks great (as everything you show us does)
 
Jan

LOCKHEED F-104 S STARFIGHTER
Kit Hasegawa 1:48 scale
 
These are some of the final pictures of my finished model which depicts a Starfighter in Italian service.
My F-104 carries the insignias of one of the interceptors of the 51st Stormo, based at Istrana, North of Italy as it appeared in 1981. This version started to be built by Aeritalia in Turin (former FIAT) in the late '60. It was powered by a more powerful J79-GE-19 and was armed with the version B or L of the Sidewinder missiles and with Sparrow missiles (from which the letter 'S' in the designation).

The kit is the old 1:48 Hasegawa of the F-104 S which is by now outdated by the newer 'state-of-the-art' Kinetic one. Nevertheless, I found that the plastic is still very nice with crisp and finely engraved surface details, thin and clear transparent parts and it well reproduces the distinctive forms of this aircraft. The build log can be found in the previous pages.


To improve the model, I sourced the following after market items:
-    Aires resin jet exhaust;
-    Master brass pitot probe;
-    Eduard resin ejection seat MB Mk7 and harness;
-    Eduard resin Sidewinder;
-    Aires resin Sparrow;
-    Skymodels decals.




The colors that I used for the Italian NATO camouflage were Gunze H-69 (dark sea grey), Gunze H-309 (dark green) and Vallejo Metallic 'white aluminum' for the underside.





Beside the positive points, I am also listing what are, in my view, its few negative points:
-    Overstated rivets on the wings which shouldn't be there;
-    Incomplete range of details for the 'S' version;
-    Absence of external loads and pylons;
-    Decals with yellow/cream color in place of white for codes. I replaced them with after market decals.


The grey paint of the camouflage was slightly post-shaded to reproduce the typical discoloration of this paint. The final finish was obtained by a coat of Tamiya flat clear XF-86 with some clear added to obtain a satin finish.
 

Little rivet trails and discolorations on the undersurface were obtained by oil colors.

I hope you like my model, thanks for the provided feedback and comments and suggestions are as always welcome.
Best regards,
Dan