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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    My choices would be Apple, Pear, Cherry or Boxwood in that order.
  2. kurtvd19
    Blacken-It was made by a married couple - very small business. They died in a car accident - or so I read back when it happened - and the company died with them. I imagine the EPA scares off any small business that would dare think of replacing the product. Birchwood Casey Brass Black is my standby. Make sure the metal is clean, dip the pieces in it either dilute or full strength remove and let it drain off. Repeat as necessary and then was it off let the parts air dry and then rub gently with an old T-Shirt. Some black will rub off. If not black enough repeat the process. I was never happy with Blacken-It and had switched to Brass Black when Blacken-It was still being made.
  3. kurtvd19
    I have some of the old ones. Made in the USA with Cherry handles. The ones I have I got from a shop in Iowa that attended many carving/woodworking shows in norther IL and southern WI. I know it was after Dockyard closed originally but they had them in stock I guess. They had them advertised in their catalog - the entire line. I guess the only way to find out is for somebody to buy some and test them. They were known for high quality steel. I hope the line keeps the good quality.
  4. kurtvd19
    Yes. Is this from a guy in Iowa?
  5. kurtvd19
    Eric, your plug for the NRG and MSW was appreciated and you thanked me last week.
  6. kurtvd19
    I too watched Eric's program - for the second time after reviewing it for him last week and It was just as interesting tonight. The Q&A session was very good too. Anybody who missed it should check out You Tube.
  7. kurtvd19
    I have stuff that was glued with C/A - Eastman 910 one of the first C/As and at that time (late 1990s) not easily obtained by the general public - that is still holding.
  8. kurtvd19
    These are the same as almost all decals. Decals need to be applied over gloss paint if flat paint a gloss coat is required over the flat - apply the decal and then flat over the decal to blend in. Same with wood - the decal will not know the difference. Applying any decal over flat paint will not allow the decal to lie flat - even with a decal setting fluid. It will appear that there is a fog under the decal due to not being able to adhere to the lows in the flat paint. I always over coat the decal with a clear to hide the decal film and blend it all in.
  9. kurtvd19
    Just dealing with getting products to the customer is not easy today. Our cost of getting Journals delivered overseas has more than doubled during Covid. And the time it takes with the reduction of flights between the US and overseas is a big factor. We have seen shipments sit at O'Hare airport for 6 weeks waiting for a flight - why we are not using normal mail for Journals now. It routinely prior to Covid took about 90 days to some counties. Some places are taking a lot longer now. It has really complicated business for small places like SeaWatch and the NRG.
  10. kurtvd19
    These are real nice and I have several types. They also have weld seams to apply. All different scales.
  11. kurtvd19
    Look up the fan sheet used for determining plank widths - check the planking tutorials to see how the fan sheet is used. You can adjust the spacing to any width by moving the fan.
  12. kurtvd19
    Coffee is loaded with tannic acid and it will lead to premature failure of fabrics. People have used it to color sails - and I have made a lot of $$ when I did restorations needed to replace sails and rigging dyed with tea. Fabric dyes can work and don't damage the rope/material.
  13. kurtvd19
    Go to the the Delta Tool web site and look up your model number. There should be a owners manual, parts list, etc. to see if your scroll saw had had one to start with. I have not seen a brand name saw w/o one. I sure wouldn't use one w/o the feature.
  14. kurtvd19
    We went to a wire spiral binding sometime about 2008 for Shop Notes. Shop Notes 2 first printed in 2008 has always used wire spiral binding.
  15. kurtvd19
    The rigging line in the kit is better than the typical kit line but I got spoiled with Chuck's rigging line. There is no comparison between Chuck's line to any kit's rigging line. However, if I had known that Chuck was dropping the rope I probably wouldn't have mentioned it. In fact I have now edited out that sentence.
  16. kurtvd19
    Below is the entire bit in the original Shop Notes that was initially referenced. Below that is the original published in the Secretaries Newsletter Vol 3 - pg 25. It is an exact copy of the referenced text that I found in the #3 SNL file on the CD. It was a shop note in the SNL - no other related info. Kurt PLANKED DECKS by John J. Flynn (3-2) If one is at all apprehensive about an individually laid planked deck opening up, make allowances for a double deck. The lower planking should be laid at a 45 degree angle to the center of the ship. In the past I used blackened glue to indicate seams between deck planks, but no longer do so. I feel the seams and butts are prominent enough with just a glue line. I put in enough nails to hold each plank until the glue underneath it has dried. The nails are left slightly above the deck surface so they can be easily drawn. Sanding fills these nail holes and is just suggestive enough of actual wooden plugs put over the counter sunk nail holes in a full sized vessel.
  17. kurtvd19
    Eric - the river project publicity says it will be available later on You Tube.
  18. kurtvd19
    I have seen this talk - Eric asked me to review it for him. It is excellent. I highly recommend it.
  19. kurtvd19
    Check Bluejackets cross section of the Charles Morgan whaler - larger scale too
  20. kurtvd19
    This is far short of being a case - dust will still have easy access to the model. If you are contemplating a shelf wide and long enough to fit the model it only takes a few inches more to fit a case with the model inside.
  21. kurtvd19
    This has been discussed here - you can do a search and see if your questions have already been answered.
  22. kurtvd19
    Just shear alone will not be an issue with models. What will break a joint is a sharp rap to the piece - deck house on deck bumped from the side.
  23. kurtvd19
    C/A glue doesn't have a lot of shear strength - but I don't anticipate planking being subjected to much in the way of shear force. Or decking, or deck furniture. As to hiding the glue on bare wood that I commented on earlier... The Journal currently at the printer features on of Steve Wheeler's models. There is a photo of the hull showing the glue marks in a photo before finish was applied. The photo that shows the marks best is the exterior of the hull but the interior had similar markings and the photos of the finished interior show none of the marks after the finish was applied. Invisible on the finished model.
  24. kurtvd19
    Master modeler Steve Wheeler used thin C/A on bare wood and never worried about the C/A marks as he applied Floquil's F110015 Flat Finish Matte (the jar is also marked as enamel) as an over spray and the C/A marks disappear completely. Steve showed before and after photographs in several articles he wrote for both Ships in Scale magazine and the nautical Research journal. He only ever used this particular product and it is no longer made but any petroleum based clear should work - acrylics were tested and don't work. The marks were made with thin C/A and no build up of C/A - the thin soaked in completely. I saw his work under construction with all the glue marks and after so I have seen the proof first hand. I have the testing of other flat finishes over C/A glue on my list of things to do - but I think it is something that somebody should look into.
  25. kurtvd19
    Reading the instructions all the way through can head off situations like this. In my writing I always advise right up front that reading the instructions completely is the single biggest step one can take to assure a good build.

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