kurtvd19

I have used Stynylrez for many wood models and it has filling properties. I would use wood varnish myself. Have no idea if plastic varnish would work - actually I don't even know what you mean by plastic varnish other than the Tamiya name denotes plastic. Reverse the question - would you use wood varnish on plastic? Not trying to be a smart*** but I find it a logical question that can guide many decisions with unknown materials.

SESSION 2 HAS STARTED. July 30 to August 2. Same offer as first post here. Limited time. Again August 6 to August 9. After this it's go to the shows to get these deals.

Richard: Congratulations! You will enjoy them. Before you use the airbrush read the instructions what little there are - but familiarize yourself with the terminology and feel of the brush in your hand. Be advised that they are usually shipped with the needle retracted a bit so if you try to spray w/o checking it over you will not be successful in spraying! Also, shoot some water into a towel or rag just to get the feel of how the trigger movement affects the spray as well as changing the pressure up and down to get a good spray pattern - always try to use the minimum amount of pressure to get a good spray pattern. I haven't used anything higher than about 18 psi and most times shoot at 12 to 15. Glad to see the high roller trigger was included on your brush. It adds a lot of control over the old short trigger. The nice thing is that it is available and interchangeable with all of the Badger triggers on double action brushes (with a very few exceptions). I have added them to all of mine that didn't have them originally. The paint affects how much pressure you need. Be sure to read up on how to judge the paint's viscosity for spraying suitability - I will provide a reference here at the end. This video by Badger's President is a bit long but with the 101 booklet and this talk you will be well prepared to practice and get going. https://youtu.be/tsW-vN0_lHw Good luck Kurt Badger - UltimateAirbrush101.pdf

Can't go wrong with that combo. Being a double action brush you must practice more than with a single action brush - but it is a lot more versatile than a single action. Like any tool - you are not a master with it in 10 minutes.

There will be two more dates for this offer - but stock can be an issue - if you need more time. 7/30 to 8/2 and then 8/6 to 8/9 - same prices if the item you want is available. They will sell out of some of the more popular items.

Actually the hose if of adequate length does a good job of removing pulsation as a problem. The test is - take the hose off the compressor and if it doesn't have a tank there will be some pulsation evident. Reattach the hose and w/o an airbrush check the air flow from the hose. The pulsation should not be evident. This works better the longer the hose, but the 6 or 10 ft braided hoses work fine (not at all sure using the thin plastic hoses). If there is pulsation evident from the end of the hose then adding a tank can help. In all my years of airbrushing using a decent air regulator off the compressor like the photo below with a 8 ft hose I have never had a pulsation issue regardless of the airbrush being used. The regulator acts as an in-line pressure control valve and I would never attempt to use any compressor for airbrushing w/o a pressure regulator. Don't use a regulator in-line closer to the brush but some do but my set up is compact and easy to adjust at the compressor. I now use a TC910 - below that has a tank but I got it more for the slightly extra capacity than for a tank. If you have a pulsation issue putting a storage tank in-line would solve any pulsation issue. Kurt

OK. I will pass this on. Thanks Eric.

It appears the link has been fixed - I just tried it and it worked fine.

Don't worry about the names for the photos - one needs the model name and the view - per the list of required photos. Make sure you have renamed the photos to match one of the naming descriptions Eric mentions above - from what your files list it as - a bunch of numbers that might include your name. I am forwarding Eric's post to our web master to check out and fix.

Badger Airbrush Co. is making a special offer for a limited time. This offer will be repeated again - watch their Facebook posts - in case I don't get them posted. Read the info in the box below - note the dates and the requirement that orders from outside the US will need to respond to the email that will be sent upon receipt of the order - limited time to respond. Badger is making this offer because they have not and will not be attending any shows during 2021. The prices shown are what the products would sell for at the shown - prices include shipping & taxes (except foreign supplemental mailing charge). Note the compressor prices - many here have been shopping for a compressor. I have the TC910 unit and it is quiet and will handle any airbrush. Also have the TC908 and it's pretty darn quiet too. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Special_Offers.asp http://www.badgerairbrush.com/images/NonCon20202021header.jpg

There doesn't appear to be much of frame 11 there now. I would plan to reinforce both forward and aft edges of the joint of frame 10 to the hull planks with epoxy - fill in the gaps. As this is obviously a r/c boat and the outside planking has or will be fiberglassed I would think about a layer of fiberglass on the inside of the hull between frames 10 and 12. If the interior of the hull has already been covered with epoxy or resin the joints of frames 10 & 12 might already be strengthened with the application of resin or epoxy making the joints stronger than they appear. And even the addition of fiberglass might be overkill. Either way take the frame down as low as you need.

Tom: Thanks for the answer on the scale - I completely missed it in the title of the build log. Duh! Kurt

What scale are you going to use?

Ed: Not discounting the Starrett idea, but the kit tool is not a bad tool. Match the proper holder to the drill bit and it should tighten down just fine. I got that tool when I built and reviewed the Yankee Hero kit when it came out. I still use it. I think I had commented on the quality of it when I reviewed the kit. Most "everything included" kits have junk tools. Bluejacket is a quality company - they don't provide junk. If it doesn't tighten at all call Bluejacket - you might have a defective tool.

Absolutely.

The model exhibit at the Science & Industry Museum was completely reworked just about 2 years ago. Models cleaned and repaired, some new and models put into dioramas. Big improvement. Kurt

The cylinders shown are small but one doesn't need a gas leak of any size. My little torch is set up on much larger tanks. Tanks should always be turned off when finished.

Go with the tried and true Smith Little Torch. Quality w/o questions of reliability.

I was going to mention the lab in Madison but Alan's from Canada so there is probably some requirement for being a US citizen. I spent some time at the lab before I retired and it is impressive. I witnessed a test of a 4 x 4 or 6 x 6 wood piece about 10 ft long to see how much weight/force it could withstand. They do this so the charts in building code and architectural books can be developed so the minimum sizes of wood components can be determined. We were behind plexiglas several inches thick and when the post failed it was very impressive - loud and toothpicks everywhere! Something they had there that is a relevant topic for this forum was a replica of the hull of the USS Constitution. It was about 6 ft long and about 4 ft high and had appropriately sized frames and planks assembled with treenails. It was made by the shipwrights in Boston before the 1996 refit so various electronic means of testing for structural integrity could be tested while in the water to determine what planks or frames might have to be replaced. This is commonly done with metal ships and they did it to see if a similar process would work with wood. The same woods as on the 1:1 ship were used.

Tooter: Do a search here for 9 inch band saws and/or band saws and you will find this is a much discussed subject with recommendations.

Randy: Have you tried to find anything at the Mercantile Library at the Univ of MO - St. Louis? They have many records that might help. If you are ever nearby this is a great place to visit. I was given a tour behind the scenes just before they opened the new state off art building - very impressive. At the time they had the absolute state of art fire protection especially for their rare documents. But the library was originally started by the merchants of St Louis for business records so many shiping related records were saved for posterity. https://www.umsl.edu/mercantile/

Were you disappointed with the poor quality of the cast parts or are they what you expected?

I don't like them either, but this isn't a good paint finish and it's not the fault of the airbrush (unless a total piece of junk is used ie: Harbor Freight Chinese rip offs) An airbrush properly used will produce a very fine finish.

Do one at a time if the model is built up to the same degree as shown on the plans. The pieces being attached are not going to put any strain on anything. No problem with doing the bulwarks on one side and then the other.

I second the idea of using a Dumas type motor but with a 2:1 drive - not direct to the shaft. A tug needs more low end power than RPMs and 2:1 with a Dumas type motor works great fro a tug such as you show. CAUTION - Do not under any circumstances use a Dumas geared drive for this - pure garbage and the noise is very loud - a belt drive is great.