kurtvd19

The part you showed in post #28 is a simple jack that is placed under the blades shaft housing after it is loosened and moves the blade up or down. It is placed right where the two red knobs shown in post #30 are shown. The two red knobs were a later improvement to adjust the blade height.

Use Brass wire. It can be annealed to bend the chain plates and other parts. It comes in many sizes and can be found in hobby shops, craft stores and on-line. It is easily soldered.

This has been discussed numerous times. Please do a search of topics and read the prior posts - your question has been answered many times. If you need further information about a glue ask the question in the that topic and you will get the needed information.

Yes it will be. I already have the post it note with "START THE RECORDING" ready to stick in the middle of my screen so I can't miss it.

NRG VIRTUAL WORKSHOP PHOTOGRAPHING MODEL SHIPS Saturday, June 5, 2021 These Workshops are normally limited to NRG members only. The Board has decided to open this Workshop to members of Model Ship World. Seats are limited and it is first come first served. The Virtual Workshop is Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 10:00 AM CST. The Workshop is entitled “Photography for Ship Models”. Kurt Van Dahm, who is a retired professional forensic photographer as well as a Director of the Guild, will show us how to photograph our models. Kurt has presented variations of this talk at NRG Conferences and Seminars. Use those newly found or sharpened photo skills and add to or start a build log on Model Ship World. This will be a Zoom presentation. The cost is FREE. Preregistration is required. Click HERE to register. Please do not call or email the office – we have automated the registration process. If you plan to attend you must register no later than 5:00 PM CST on June 2, 2021. Early registration is urged as this event is expected to be heavily attended and seats are limited. All registrants will get an emailed invitation with the required link to attend on or about June 3. Please join the event with your video camera off and your microphone muted.

The contest was held and the awards were presented at a virtual awards ceremony on May 15th. We have posted the slide show and the award list for the model contest on the museum website: https://www.wisconsinmaritime.org/programs-and-events/midwestern-model-ship-contest/

Justin: Parts are often drawn at different scales for clarity. Some smaller parts if drawn at 1:16 would be tiny on the drawing so they are drawn at a larger scale so details can be easily seen. Many drawings will show objects at different scales on the same sheet for this reason.

This isn't the type of project where templates are needed. Every dimension of each part is provided in full size so marking the parts in any scale the builder picks is able to be accomplished with more precision than printing out the plans to use as a template. The primary purpose of this project, like the half hull planking project is to educate the modeler. The NRG is chartered as an educational organization. Following the monograph will help educate builders in scales and drawing interpretations without going through unnecessary rescaling calculations. Toni's without access to the internet till next week. She may have more to add later. Take care, Kurt

Do a search here as there are several discussions on airbrush use where your questions will most likely be answered. If you then have specific questions go ahead and ask for clarification or more data.

A front surface mirror eliminates the gap that one sees between the half hull and the mirror's reflective surface that in a std mirror is on the back side. The front surface mirror is fragile and easilly scratched but once you see the difference the care is worth it. Front surface mirrors are expensive but a good source is scrapped copy machines - there are places that take these machines apart and sell the parts - mostly in major cities.

This model won a Gold award last night at the WI Maritime Museum's 44th annual contest (virtual this year). Dan entered in the Advanced category (he's won previous Gold awards so one must enter the next higher category each time until reaching the Advanced level). The sail details received nice comments. I too like his sawhorses. I have used sawhorses before but I really like his version and I will blatantly copy his version at some point.

I want to let everybody know that this model earned a SILVER award at the WI Maritime Museum's 44th Annual contest (virtual this year) last night. It was entered in the Scratch Built category. Congratulations to Eric.

I have an Epsom scanner that doesn't induce distortion. Real easy to check - make a scan at 100% print it out at 100% and then using a light box or window hold the copy over the original to see how close it is. I have checked and the copy is identical. It's a home type with a maximum copy size of 9 x 14.

A full size asymmetrical hull will tend to go in a big circle one way or the other - best to avoid if possible😎

Randy: I have been meaning to mention that the Murphy Library at LaCrosse, WI has THE collection of riverboat photographs and they might have something on the Z> BIDDLE. Ralph DuPae collected riverboat photographs from the western rivers regardless of how obscure. Ralph's knowledge of riverboats was second to none and he could recall any riverboat photograph he had ever seen and tell you what it showed. He helped me extensively in my search for photos of the towboat that pushed all but the first submarine produced in Manitowoc, WI to the gulf (from Lockport, IL) and recalled the number of photos of the boat that he had and what each showed. I paid him on the spot - we were at a meeting in IA -and got a large envelope of photos about 2 weeks later with exactly what he had described. All his photographs now make up the majority of the Murphy Libraries collection. I have lost contact with the librarians there but they have a reputation of being very helpful.

Check the store on Monday.

Ken is absolutely not an artist which he readily admits. But he has a practical, down to Earth way of explaining how airbrushes work and how to use them. He is without question the most approachable and helpful ambassador of airbrushing. This video is absolutely worth the time it takes to watch. If you want to learn the basics this one is hard to beat. I recommend it to everybody who asks me how to get started. Thanks for mentioning this video Ron.

Diver: I am a Badger user. But anything I say can be applied to any name brand airbrush. The rip offs sold by Harbor Freight and similar places are to be avoided as the junk they are. If you want a simple to use airbrush that will give a good finish with the lowest learning curve the Badger 350 is my recommendation. I got the equivalent model in 1960 and used it exclusively for many years and still use it occasionally. I reach for it when I have larger areas to cover and that 12" Fiat with one main color is well withing the 350's capability. It is an single action, external mix, suction type brush. Being external mix means the finish will not be the finest finish one can get from an airbrush but it will be at least as good as a rattle can finish. An internal mix airbrush will always produce a better finish than an external mix brush - name brands compared. But I have had several models painted with a 350 win gold awards as have some close friends. $44.40 brush/bottles only. The next step up in a single action brush would be a Badger 200. This is a single action, external mix, suction feed brush. There are several 200's but the NH will do the job with the standard needle and all. $56 price - brush/bottles only. The next step up is a double action brush. The Badger 360-1 is called the Universal because it is both a suction feed and a gravity feed brush all in one. The front end rotates - thus the 360 - so a bottle can be lugged into the cup from the bottom. For finer jobs rotate the color cup to face upwards and paint can be put into the color cup and fed via gravity. This is especially nice when doing small parts or doing several color changes for detail parts. I hate having to use a jar and all the tubes and caps that need cleaning when plugging in a color jar to paint several small parts that the gravity feed feature would have allowed me to just drop in 4-5 drops and still have plenty left. There is a bigger learning curve to use a double action brush than a single action brush. Single action = push down for paint. Air and paint flow is adjusted separately off the model - - push down for air and then either open or shut down the nozzle to release more or less air and paint. And then paint. A double action brush = push down on the trigger to release air and then pull back on the trigger to release paint. Attached is a booklet that explains the terms I have used as well as additional information concerning airbrushes and airbrushing. I hope this helped. Any more questions just ask. Kurt Badger - UltimateAirbrush101.pdf

Diver: First, what do you plan to paint? Miniatures or large r/c boats? I can help but you first need to describe what you plan to paint and what kind of paints you plan to use (if you have any thoughts on paint at this stage). There are great airbrushes for fine detail and there are great airbrushes for general painting. They are not often the same brush. Do you have an air compressor? There are a lot of variables that make a choice of a brush difficult. Answer these questions and I am sure we can set you up. Kurt

Isn't it true that nobody sells anything for more than Micro-Mark?

I agree with Eric that it is more likely a spar than any sort of cover rolled up. Way too uniform to be anything rolled up - especially that far above the deck. No sag. The roll down tarps in your photos show sag and nonuniform gathering as would be expected with tarps.

A finish is applied after the parts are assembled and sanded. It is a very rare part that isn't processed in some way after being removed from the sheet. I can't think of any laser cut part that can be finished prior to sanding to some extent.

Below are a couple of pick up devices I have had for many years. The small one is the one I have used the most - simply squeeze the blue bulb place over the part to work with and squeeze again to release it. Using the larger one is a matter of pushing down on the black button grab the part by releasing it and pushing it again to release the part. It came with 2 or 3 other tips. Both work great.

Randy: I think the Howard Steamboat Museum still has brand new copies for sale. I got my copy there. https://www.howardsteamboatmuseum.org/ Kurt

15 1/2 inches