kurtvd19

And with digital photography you see immediately if the exposure was good or not - no need to figure the exposure factor for the tube or tubes used.

I have an old Champaign bottle - nice and heavy. Fill it with water and soak plank for 2-3 minutes and if it needs more to bend use a hair dryer to heat it - clamp in place and glue down when dry.

At the 2003 NRG Conference here near Chicago Fred Hocker the Vasa curator was talking about their studies of the colors it was painted. He said that he was aware that Vasa builders would argue that the blue used on their model was more accurate than the other guy's paint. He conclude it with a scientific explanation of how the polluted waters of the harbor had chemically changed the original paint and that the studies showed that it was RED not blue!

Welcome to new sponsor INTER-ACTION Hobbies. Look at their website to see some small boat kits and detail parts in various RR scales - O = 1/48.

Like I said it's screwed up all over. 3 days one time 90 days the next. Various people have answered you. Keep further issues with SeaWatch between you and SeaWatch this forum isn't for repeated airing of problems.

Dave: The mail systems are all still not what they were prior to the pandemic. We are experiencing big delays in delivery of products from the NRG store as well as Journals. 90 days is not unusual for delivery of products.

I have been using STYNYLREZ since before it's introduction to the public. Great primer and it is used by many miniature painters as a top coat - I did the same for a model that was featured in Ships in Scale - only STYNYLREZ paint. It's a primer do the .5 needle is correct but I haven't used anywhere near 30 psi - well under 20 psi. Excess pressure promotes tip dry more than any single other factor. I have not had need to sand it - properly used it is very smooth.

I have it all painted, some assembly done but after doing my analysis of the kit and instructions for Model Expo I had to put completing the kit on the back burner due to commissions and the NRG Chairmanship taking up all my time. My term as Chairman comes to a close in February - maybe I can get back to it in the future. Will still be on the board but without the extra duties of the Chairmanship.

Model Expo has a steam horse drawn pumper and a horse drawn ladder rig. Really nice. I have the pumper kit & it is super.

Drill bits you already have can be used for rounding/curving parts - no $ outlay. But if you are into tools.....

Very nicely done.

Ken You just need a new needle. But if you send the brush to Badger they will go over it and repair anything needing work for the cost of the return mailing - I don't know about the needle cost as that's owner damage, but I have sen some real abuse to brushes they receive and they just fix and return them.

Your 105 most likely came with the .5 needle/tip. They do make a .7 needle/tip (you need to match the tip and the needle). Unless you have one of the newer extremes, the 105 with the standard .5 nozzle is perfectly adequate for any acrylics - properly thinned/airbrush ready not tube stuff you need to heavily thin. There is a .3 needle - but anything other than the .5 needle is only available by order.

I believe they are lights. The ones at the rear would elevate with telescoping mast - by hand - and pivot 360. I think the parts above the read cab doors are also lights that may strobe when responding and may light otherwise. Sometimes called alley lights. just guessing on this. Haven't been back to where I worked for about 2 years - only go to retirement ceremonies and the apparatus is usually parked outside so the apparatus room can be used for the ceremonies, so I haven't been up cloase to look at the newer stuff.

It is a wide angle mirror so clearance of the bumper extension can be seen and presence of any pedestrians can be seen. This is an addition to apparatus since I retired. Check out buses and such for these too - not unique to fire apparatus.

Do a search on each of these topics - they have been discussed many times - lots of advice & recommendations.

Please use English. #7 in MSW Guidelines copied below. - You must use clear and legible English at all times. Some leeway is given if English is not your first language but please remember that this is an English speaking website and English is the 1st choice of language for postings. Moderators may alter or delete posts that don't make sense because of poor spelling and/or grammar.

We will have some news about scale 3D printed figures sometime in the next couple of months.

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack: A new Shipwright's Series kit. Skill Level 3 Scale 1:24 Kit #MS1472 Overall length 14 1/2 inches – Width 3 3/4 inches - Height 14 inches - Baseboard 4 inches x 10 inches Completed model - Photo Courtesy of David Antscherl This kit is the third in the new Shipwright’s Series of progressive model tutorials designed by David Antscherl for Model Shipways a division of Model Expo. These kits fill a void in our hobby for simple but good kits that teach the new model builders the necessary skills to enable them to move on to build bigger more complex kits. For many years, Midwest Model Products manufactured a great series of kits that were designated as Level 1 through Level 4 and designed to teach the beginner wood boat modeler the basic skills a wooden boat modeler needs to learn. New ownership cancelled the line several years ago and the hobby has needed replacements which Model Shipways is now providing with the new Shipwright’s Series. The instructions for this kit like all the instructions for Model Shipways kits are downloadable as a pdf from the Model Expo website. https://modelexpo-online.com/ If you are curious about this or any other Model Shipways kit downloading and reading the instructions is worth the time. The typical MS blue box Instructions and parts list The Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack kit is labeled as a Skill Level 3 kit both on the box and in the instruction booklet. The first two kits had information on experience needed (or helpful) to have before starting the kits. The level one was simple; “No experience needed.” The level two kit was more specific: “Some previous knowledge is necessary in order to be successful.” The first paragraph on the first page of this level 3 kit has the following advice from the kit designer. “This is not a ‘first time’ beginner’s kit. I want you to be successful, so strongly recommend that you build the Model Shipways dory or pram kit first. You will learn the basic skills and techniques needed to successfully complete this kit.” The author thought this important enough that red ink was used for the entire paragraph. As in the previous series kits the tools needed are called out as well as some that are nice to have but not necessary are listed for the benefit of the newer builders these kits are aimed at. Unpacking the box finds a full color 38-page full color instruction manual, a list of all the parts contained in the box, 16 sheets of laser cut Basswood, cloth for the sail, a plastic bag containing two diameters of nylon rigging line, a plastic bag with Britannia castings: six cleats, two oarlocks and four turnbuckles. Two pieces each of 1/32-inch x 1/16-inch and 1/32-inch x 3/32-inch Basswood strips and a six-inch piece of 3/16-inch dowel complete the kit contents. Overall, the materials are good for the kit’s intended purpose as a learning experience. This kit is a fitting follow up to the Level 1 and Level 2 kits previously reviewed. I recommend it as a good learning experience that will prepare one for the challenges of a multi-masted model. Model Shipways has provided another step in the learning process that is needed in our hobby. Laser cut sheets - 16 total Blocks, nails, eye bolts, rings Cleats 24 and 18 Ga. Copper wire, Brass strip and Brass rod Oarlocks Sailcloth and rigging line

The extended fence is secured with 4 machine screws into the standard short fence. If you have 4 tapped holes close to the ends of the short fence you are set to go. I got mine in 2003 and it was set up for the extended fence at that time.

The best thing you can do so you don't become a statistic would be to put aside the kit you are working on and get a simple kit meant to teach modeling techniques. You are already aware of the issue of how many walk away from first builds that are too complicated - why do you want to go down that road? Do a search of this site for beginner kits - check them out and use the very good instructions in these kits along with build logs here to guide you.

50 ft. I offer this as a realistic appearing option - that might be much easier and I myself wouldn't hesitate to use the technique. Maybe they do it differently in other areas but every place I have ever visited and looked at fire apparatus the hose beds are covered by removable covers. Water resistant to waterproof canvas covers with easy release snaps or tabs that need to be turned90 degrees to lock in that cover the hose bed side to side and end to end and then hang down at the rear so the hose stays dry on the outside. Dirt in the canvas covering will mildew and get grungy if allowed to get wet w/o being allowed to dry out. Packed in the hose bed it doesn't dry out. Model the rear of the hose bed like the photo used earlier. Make a cover that covers the hose bed and shows just a bit of the rear end that is packed in - using about 10% of what you would need to fill the entire area. Use a Styrofoam block behind the hose to "fill the bed" Just like using a canvas cover on a life boat so you don't need to detail the interior.

Try gluing or soldering the hose fittings to the metal before the heat shrink is added and make a smaller shoulder on the fitting for the heat shrink to grasp

You can also use the one piece bottom provided. Please do yourself a favor and read the instructions all the way through before you glue a single part together. I always tell newbies this is always step #1. You can weight the center piece on top of a piece of glass or wax paper and put a bit of glue on one of the side pieces, push them together and weight the 2nd piece till the glue cures. Repeat with the third piece. I have a metal assembly fixture with magnets for this kind of work but weights work just as well.

Actually the hose jacket is canvas and the texture is not real rough - remember the firefighters need to be able to drag it and rough ='s hard to drag. It is a heavier canvass than used on roofs of boats. I just looked at the roll of solder-off in my shop and it's way too coarse. The texture will not be very noticeable at 1/24 or 1/25. Smoother would be less noticed than too rough. I forgot that some FD's use extruded hoses - not in this area though - smooth except for the longitudinal grooves. Check this suppliers photos - https://www.edarley.com/fire-hose/ They actually show yellow booster hose now! Never saw any but it is made.