kurtvd19
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Everything posted by kurtvd19
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Go to the the Delta Tool web site and look up your model number. There should be a owners manual, parts list, etc. to see if your scroll saw had had one to start with. I have not seen a brand name saw w/o one. I sure wouldn't use one w/o the feature.
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We went to a wire spiral binding sometime about 2008 for Shop Notes. Shop Notes 2 first printed in 2008 has always used wire spiral binding.
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Kit Review 1:24 Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Model Shipways
kurtvd19 replied to kurtvd19's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
The rigging line in the kit is better than the typical kit line but I got spoiled with Chuck's rigging line. There is no comparison between Chuck's line to any kit's rigging line. However, if I had known that Chuck was dropping the rope I probably wouldn't have mentioned it. In fact I have now edited out that sentence. -
Below is the entire bit in the original Shop Notes that was initially referenced. Below that is the original published in the Secretaries Newsletter Vol 3 - pg 25. It is an exact copy of the referenced text that I found in the #3 SNL file on the CD. It was a shop note in the SNL - no other related info. Kurt PLANKED DECKS by John J. Flynn (3-2) If one is at all apprehensive about an individually laid planked deck opening up, make allowances for a double deck. The lower planking should be laid at a 45 degree angle to the center of the ship. In the past I used blackened glue to indicate seams between deck planks, but no longer do so. I feel the seams and butts are prominent enough with just a glue line. I put in enough nails to hold each plank until the glue underneath it has dried. The nails are left slightly above the deck surface so they can be easily drawn. Sanding fills these nail holes and is just suggestive enough of actual wooden plugs put over the counter sunk nail holes in a full sized vessel.
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Eric - the river project publicity says it will be available later on You Tube.
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I have seen this talk - Eric asked me to review it for him. It is excellent. I highly recommend it.
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Check Bluejackets cross section of the Charles Morgan whaler - larger scale too
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This is far short of being a case - dust will still have easy access to the model. If you are contemplating a shelf wide and long enough to fit the model it only takes a few inches more to fit a case with the model inside.
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proxxon mini mill
kurtvd19 replied to Anthony Hearne's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This has been discussed here - you can do a search and see if your questions have already been answered.- 1 reply
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Just shear alone will not be an issue with models. What will break a joint is a sharp rap to the piece - deck house on deck bumped from the side.
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C/A glue doesn't have a lot of shear strength - but I don't anticipate planking being subjected to much in the way of shear force. Or decking, or deck furniture. As to hiding the glue on bare wood that I commented on earlier... The Journal currently at the printer features on of Steve Wheeler's models. There is a photo of the hull showing the glue marks in a photo before finish was applied. The photo that shows the marks best is the exterior of the hull but the interior had similar markings and the photos of the finished interior show none of the marks after the finish was applied. Invisible on the finished model.
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CA residue problem
kurtvd19 replied to Doc James's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Master modeler Steve Wheeler used thin C/A on bare wood and never worried about the C/A marks as he applied Floquil's F110015 Flat Finish Matte (the jar is also marked as enamel) as an over spray and the C/A marks disappear completely. Steve showed before and after photographs in several articles he wrote for both Ships in Scale magazine and the nautical Research journal. He only ever used this particular product and it is no longer made but any petroleum based clear should work - acrylics were tested and don't work. The marks were made with thin C/A and no build up of C/A - the thin soaked in completely. I saw his work under construction with all the glue marks and after so I have seen the proof first hand. I have the testing of other flat finishes over C/A glue on my list of things to do - but I think it is something that somebody should look into. -
Reading the instructions all the way through can head off situations like this. In my writing I always advise right up front that reading the instructions completely is the single biggest step one can take to assure a good build.
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If you ever have to repair the model or repair a model made by another you will wish the masts have not been glued in place.
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One of our club members purchased one when he built a violin and he continues to use if for model ship building. He's very happy with the one he purchased.
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Macro photography on the cheap.
kurtvd19 replied to ausf's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
And with digital photography you see immediately if the exposure was good or not - no need to figure the exposure factor for the tube or tubes used. -
I have an old Champaign bottle - nice and heavy. Fill it with water and soak plank for 2-3 minutes and if it needs more to bend use a hair dryer to heat it - clamp in place and glue down when dry.
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At the 2003 NRG Conference here near Chicago Fred Hocker the Vasa curator was talking about their studies of the colors it was painted. He said that he was aware that Vasa builders would argue that the blue used on their model was more accurate than the other guy's paint. He conclude it with a scientific explanation of how the polluted waters of the harbor had chemically changed the original paint and that the studies showed that it was RED not blue!
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Welcome to new sponsor INTER-ACTION Hobbies. Look at their website to see some small boat kits and detail parts in various RR scales - O = 1/48.
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Like I said it's screwed up all over. 3 days one time 90 days the next. Various people have answered you. Keep further issues with SeaWatch between you and SeaWatch this forum isn't for repeated airing of problems.
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Dave: The mail systems are all still not what they were prior to the pandemic. We are experiencing big delays in delivery of products from the NRG store as well as Journals. 90 days is not unusual for delivery of products.
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I have been using STYNYLREZ since before it's introduction to the public. Great primer and it is used by many miniature painters as a top coat - I did the same for a model that was featured in Ships in Scale - only STYNYLREZ paint. It's a primer do the .5 needle is correct but I haven't used anywhere near 30 psi - well under 20 psi. Excess pressure promotes tip dry more than any single other factor. I have not had need to sand it - properly used it is very smooth.
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I have it all painted, some assembly done but after doing my analysis of the kit and instructions for Model Expo I had to put completing the kit on the back burner due to commissions and the NRG Chairmanship taking up all my time. My term as Chairman comes to a close in February - maybe I can get back to it in the future. Will still be on the board but without the extra duties of the Chairmanship.
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Model Expo has a steam horse drawn pumper and a horse drawn ladder rig. Really nice. I have the pumper kit & it is super.
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New to PE, need suggestion about tools to fold
kurtvd19 replied to Jsks76's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Drill bits you already have can be used for rounding/curving parts - no $ outlay. But if you are into tools.....
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