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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Welcome. Thank you for your support. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    Are you stropping the blades periodically as you work? As soon as the blade is the least bit less than razor sharp strop it and the edge is back. Stropping reduces the frequency of resharpening. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Chris: Check out the rope Chuck sells at Syren Ship Model - so much better than the stuff from the kit. Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    99.9% of dowels supplied in kits are great for use in the garden to hold up small plants. The 0.1% are the straight ones. Best to use square stock and make it round using small planes - also easier to do the flat areas when you start with flat stock. Best way to avoid ever having the mast warp is to glue up 4 pieces into square stock and work from there. First step in making it round is to knock off the 4 corners making it 8 sided - leave the 8 sided part alone at the proper area and round off the rest of the mast. Just my opinion and Dennis Miller and I might both be wrong... Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Mike: It has really turned out nice. A very good model. The term for the planky, boarding rampy sort of thing is landing stage. And you did a good job on it too - wasn't that fun to rig into place? Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    Mike: I like your boats. Nice job on the planking. You took it beyond what I did with the ones from mt build. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Mike: Yeah, the fire buckets sit in a rack with a hole in the top board to hold the buckets upright. Sometimes they hung buckets from brackets or stands. The photo of my model of the Bluejacket kit of the tugboat Lackawanna shows fire buckets in the rack at the base of the stack. Sorry, being a retired FD Chief I assumed everybody just knew this. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Mike: The planks of the wheel are called Bucket Boards. I don't know if that term was used in the kit instructions or not but it's common usage. When you mentioned a bucket for water, one thing I meant to add to the model and never got around to it was a couple of racks of fire buckets carried on the roof of the boat to stop fires started by sparks from the stacks. I don't remember if these were included in the kit or not. They might have been included in the kit and I didn't use them because they most likely had flat bottoms as the kit pieces usually have - fire buckets had round bottoms - and were painted red. The round bottoms were to make them useless for anything else so the crew would know they were where they were supposed to be and not being used to swab decks or something. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Chris: Use the piece of wood that surrounds the laser cut keel piece as the "scrap" it is the same thickness and is big enough to allow practice. Did you know that BB rode a Gold Wing to (at least some) of the Harley events he covered for the magazine? Ran into him at both a Harley meet and at the Newport RI Yacht Show (when he covered it for Attitudes and Latitudes) and stopped at our tent. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    Mike: Looking Good! I like the dark buckets - good contrast.
  11. kurtvd19
    The only thing that's going to change is the scale of the cut-offs that you will be saving. It's amazing how many will wind up being used someplace on some model. Will be watching. Thanks, Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    I anybody wants to get some of the discontinued Dockyard Micro Chisels I saw a bunch at a wood show this past weekend from a shop in Bettendorph, IA. I bought a bunch of rotary carving bits from them at very reasonable prices. They had the Dockyard tools on display and they are still shown on their web site. http://www.thewoodcraftshop.com There is also a nice dedicated strop for sharpening these tools with all of the curves and angles. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Mike: It's looking great. The pilothouse work is right on! Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    The only thing magical about that tool is it's ability to steal money year after year from unsuspecting modelers. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    OC Test the same combination off the model. The Rustoleum problem was tested with many different paints over it with the same results - the color coats failed to cure/dry - enamels, and acrylics. Maybe they have changed again - that's the problem, they seem to change quite often with poor results. They may have solved the problem, but too late for me to ever try them again. And I can assure you somebody is reading this thread and saying we are nuts that they have never had a problem - and they probably didn't have one - yet. If it tests OK on similar materials in the same layering sequence then it's OK - but test off the model first. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    Stay away from Rustoleum. They have changed their formulation and all sorts of bad stuff happens when you put any thing else on it - even acrylics. I will never have Rustoleum in the shop again nor will several other guys I know who learned the hard way. Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Be careful of the You Tube videos as some are excellent and others are absolutely horrible and one can get far off track if one of the bad ones is followed. Once you are a bit experienced you can tell the good from the bad but until then sample a bunch to see if there is any agreement between them. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    We had a bent hull structure that was used as an example of what not to do, that had been planked on one side and then the other, shown at a NRG Symposium. It had a very visible curve that would never be corrected w/o removing all of the planking. I was surprised that anybody would proceed with the planking of the second side - obviously this was from a modeler with out a club or other input that blindly followed the instructions "plank the hull". Dave is correct that with the blocks added between bulkheads this could not happen as the blocks essentially turn the keel/bulkhead assembly into a solid hull. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Jack: Practice with two pieces of flat stock with some flux and Stay-Brite. Set them end to end with one piece overlapping the other - with the flux between the two pieces where they overlap with just a bit of squeeze out at the end of the piece on top and some small bits of the solder atop the flux right at the joint. Heat the brass where it is two layers thick just a bit back from where it overlaps. When the brass gets hot enough the flux will melt and shortly after that the solder should flow. When it flows remove the heat - the job is done at that point and heating it longer will hurt the joint. Let it cool a bit, use a pliers or tweezer to pick up the part and dip it in water. You should have a good joint. Once you see the solder melt and know what to look for you should be good to go. Remember the solder will flow to the heat. If the solder balls up you got it hot before the metal. Hope this helps. Take care, Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Glen: I sure wish I had been with Mitch when he visited the INA and your shop the other day. It would have been great to see you and Kevin again - and these two models in person. Mitch told me just how cramped the model shop is with both of the models taking up most of the floor space. I understand he had to borrow your optivisor to see the end of the ball mills you used to do the doors and that he's really sort of taking your word that there is actually a ball at the tip of the mill. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    Mike: It's looking good. Alignment can be a bear but in the end it all fits together quite well. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Ken: Glad you got to see the ship. It was supposed to be one of the NRG Conference visits while in San Diego next week - planned long ago but they moved up their touring dates and it will not be in San Diego next week. Love the foggy photos. And the canopy brass work is fabulous I am sure those at the conference next week will be looking it over closely. Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Bill: I am not sure that this article is in SN2 or not. I took it from the CD set - easier to find. But, the Shop Notes are sure filled with good tips. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    The method I described for sharpening the blades was printed as a Shop Note (Vol 49.3 - page 176-177). I have attached a PDF of the Shop Note. The NRG publishes collections of Shop Notes from the Journals. Shop Notes 2 is currently available at the NRG Store on the web site. The original Shop Notes has been out of print for a few years but is being republished soon. Kurt SAW BLADE SHARP - P.pdf
  25. kurtvd19
    Jack: I am not familiar with the paste fluxes you mention but both should work. The Worthington would be my first pick to try as the Stay-Brite is lead free. I used the flux that came with the Stay-Brite for years until I ran out and tried some paste flux I had in the shop and liked the way it can be applied in just the right spot w/o running and then the small chips of solder can be placed right onto the flux and it stays in place w/o sliding off. Sounds like the Weller unit should work - the parts aren't very big so should heat up OK. Give it a try - on scrap pieces. Kurt

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