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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    I agree. When I get some time I will dig up some photos of these common features. Meanwhile here is a photo of a model I did with the outhouse overhanging the wheel. The glue OOPS was removed after I saw the original photo. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    The acrylic model paints usually have a pigment size of one micron vs the latex house paint having an average pigment size of 37 microns. No way do you get a scale appearing coat of paint from latex house paint. The same goes for the pigments in hardware store paints - much bigger than model paints. Note that all the house paints tend to advertise "one coat coverage even over...." Only a model paint with finely ground pigments can give you a scale thickness of paint on the model (or at least a lot closer to scale than with house paint). Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Mick: I have missed your updates. Nice work as usual. Thanks for posting the photos. Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    Eric's correct - I just noticed I forgot the smiley face to end my previous post. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Chicken dinners.
  6. kurtvd19
    Roger: You are right about the square stern shown in the contemporary drawings. The only thing I can think of is that the research done for the documentary film by the History Channel might have shown some indication of the rounded stern. It is indicated as a source of information used in the kit's design. I don't remember if the boat used in the documentary had a square or rounded stern. One thing in the documentary film that was wrong was they showed the hull painted white - strictly so that the boat would be visible in the film. Had it been painted flat black as the data I read before building the model indicated, the film would have been able to have been shot with the lens cap on and seen as much had they used black paint. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Greg: I have purchased these at both Menard's and Home Depot. I can't believe anybody only has 2 clamps of any one type. I routinely use many at a time and have about 24 of this type alone. Like Norm Abrams says, 'You can never have too many clamps!" Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Various plastics and metals but have never heard of wood being used. I don't think using wood is possible due to the additive nature of the process, building up the shape. But, who had heard of 3D printing just a few years ago? A shape can be carved out of wood using CNC controlled lasers and/ or mills in a subtractive manner. Pat has made 1/200 scale anchor chain with the bars that is individual links all together as if it was welded chain. Some gentle tumbling and then paint - incredibly intricate. Kurt Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    Pat Matthews is speaking at the upcoming contest at the WI Maritime Museum about researching and doing up a 1/8 scale Hicks engine in which he used many 3D printed parts. Pat's something of an expert in 3D modeling using it daily in his job as a Ford engine designer/engineer as well as his very fine models. Pat has done presentations at the museum and at NRG Conferences on the subject of 3D printing. There are many process and no single process is best for all applications. Pat provided information on the variety of processes and what systems to use for applications in an article in the NRG’s Nautical Research Journal – Summer 2014 – Vol 59-2 (downloadable article [PDF] available from the NRG Office for $2.50). Pat has won gold awards at Manitowoc for his models that have included many 3D parts while one was almost entirely from 3D parts. The contest rules allow Photo Etch and 3D in scratch built categories when the modeler does the drawings/masters used for the processes. Two of his models with 3D parts are below - the big searchlight on the seaplane tender is lathe turned - the rest of the model is almost exclusively 3D printed parts. The contest info is here on MSW at the following link - https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15799-wi-maritime-museums-41st-annual-model-ships-and-boats-contest/ Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    Pat: Nice work. Did you get back already or yet to leave? Got the check yesterday. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Regarding the hinging of the coal bunkers - the photo attached shows some lids opened. Note that if the hinges were not placed as they were - per the kit - they would block access for loading from a dock. As they are positioned they act as a backstop for shoveling the coal aboard. Not much room to shovel coal from the bunkers to the boiler regardless. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    That looks like it is pretty stiff. Jewelers wire comes in more flexible wires of similar diameter. I have used quite a bit of the jeweler type wire along with connectors called CRIMPS. The photo of the wire loop is 7 strand wire - diameter is .024". The Crimp is a bit bigger (I.D.) than I would use but this is what was at hand. A special pliers is used to do the crimping - not expensive but must be sized to the crimps. Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Elijah's also got my phone number and uses it - with my encouragement. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    The Shop Notes have arrived. Any pre ordered copies will be mailed out later today or tomorrow. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    The original Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes first published by the NRG in 1979 and out of print for several years is being reprinted and will be ready for sale by early April. The original Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes contains “Shop Notes” and some longer articles from the first 25 years, Volume 1 to Volume 25, (1980) of the quarterly Nautical Research Journal. This book has been described as a book that ship modeler’s must have. This is a completely separate book from Ship Modeler’s Shop Notes II published in 2009 – SN2 covers Volumes 26 – 50 (1981-2005). If you have Shop Notes II we are sure you will want to add the original to your library and if you don’t have either, now is the time to get both. Be sure to contact the office for the member’s discount code that will save you $5.00 off the list price. Save on shipping when you order both Shop Notes (1 & 2). Place your order through the NRG office and pay only one shipping fee of $6 for shipping both copies (US only & to the same address only!). When the books are in stock we will announce they are available for purchase.
  16. kurtvd19
    Miles: Welcome to MSW and to the NRG - Mary told me you joined today - she's working on your welcome letter and sending you the current Journal. She mentioned you joining because my cousin toured and played Sax with your namesake about 25 years ago. I know you will gain a lot from your association with the crowd here - check the various build logs for the Constitution if you decide to tackle it next. Take care, Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    A complete set of Annual Indexes to the Nautical Research Journal has been put up on the NRG web site under the Journal button http://www.thenrg.org/the-journal-indexes.php. The Indexes for Journal Volumes 1- 40 are searchable. The indexes from Volumes 41-61 are downloadable pdf's. Some of the articles from past issues are already available from the NRG Store and more will continue to be added http://www.thenrg.org/the-nrg-store.php Articles not yet listed for sale in the store can be obtained by contacting the NRG office - use the "contact us" link at the bottom of each NRG web page. Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    Elijah: Great model - you can be proud of your first build. If you bring the model to our next meeting I will take some photos of it for you using my set up here so you have a couple of good photos against a nice background. On to the Philadelphia - you are going to enjoy this build. Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Caution - if you are using acrylics do not use common steel wool - a piece will inevitably be left behind someplace despite blowing off the dust and it will rust through your nice paint job. Use a synthetic sanding pad like the 3M pads or similar. Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Shellac is a very common finish for furniture and wood projects - it was used extensively here in the US until sturdier finishes became available and fine furniture makers still use it. It is still easy to get here and to use. The woodworking stores sell cans of ready to use shellac and they also sell the flakes so one can mix up a fresh batch and it can be made to different consistencies by adding more flake to the liquid. If you buy any, get the smallest amount you can get as it doesn't have a real long shelf life once it's mixed but if the can is kept tightly closed I have used stuff that was 2 years old. Here is a link to the Wikipedia definition https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac Hope this helped. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    I use only acrylics and specifically Badger Airbrush Co's Marine Paints - they have virtually no odor. I doubt that you have access to this brand. I often just airbrush a light coating of water onto the wood and when dry sand the raised wood. If it was raised a lot - softer woods raise more than hard woods - I sometimes spray another coat and sand that when dry and then apply the acrylic paints. Sometimes the model will not work well with sanding due to tight corners, etc and then I use a coat of shellac under the paint. The shellac doesn't raise the grain and once it seals the wood there isn't any way that the acrylic will affect the wood. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Making a sternwheel operate is much more difficult than adding an electric motor. Most operating model sternwheels use a circular drive wheel, inside the engine room, that the inboard end of the Pitman arms attach to. This makes the pitman arms operate in a circular motion while the real steam engine connection to the inboard end of the pitman arm is a slide mechanism that goes fore and aft and the pitman arm attached to the sternwheel follows the sternwheel's circular motion. The inboard end slides back and forth at a set elevation while the outboard end rotates in a circular motion where it attaches to the sternwheel. When you see the slide mechanism operate vs the inner wheel type drive the latter looks very toy like. Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    Eric: Thanks for doing the research. I have filed the info and links in my steamboat files. I know it will proove helpful down the road. Kurt
  24. kurtvd19
    Grant: Sorry, but the limitations of the web site would make it visible to everybody as there is not a "members only" section. There is an upgrade in our data base under consideration and members would have access to update personal info and see the member number but it's sometime down the road. If every member would look at their mailing label - the Spring 2017 issue is in the mail - and record their member number they will have it at hand when needed. Take care, Kurt
  25. kurtvd19
    I don't think you see your member number on the store - we don't ask for it and the store and member data base are not linked. Send an email to the office and ask what your member number is - or call and ask and renew at the same time. The email is info@thenauticalresearchguild.org Phone is in the Journal - page 1 and on the web site www.thenrg.org Kurt

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