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kurtvd19

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Everything posted by kurtvd19

  1. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW Steve. Gerald Wingrove, a true master in metal is building a metal hull and I am sure his build will be of interest to you. His work is exceptional and highly detailed. A bit different than I think you are considering, but your time will not be wasted in checking his work out. Again, welcome to MSW. Kurt
  2. kurtvd19
    Welcome a new Sponsor to MSW - Chesapeake Light Craft. Their new model kits follow the same procedures used to build their full scale kit boats. Kurt
  3. kurtvd19
    Ron is right about alcohol. One issue with Acrylics is drying too fast - alcohol only intensifies the effect. Badger recommends using only distilled water for thinning their Acrylic paints which I use exclusively. I have never had to thin the Badger paints unless I left a jar open as they are of the proper consistency for airbrushing as supplied. Kurt
  4. kurtvd19
    Mark: The photo shows on the right a 0.045" dia. crimp on 1 x 7 SS wire 0.012" dia. For 1/12 this would be a smaller line, but it's next to impossible to see that it is a crimp and for larger sizes be sure to use the special crimp pliers and you can get the crimp to be smooth except for the seam where the crimp is touching itself and it then appears as a line that is very hard to see any curvature of the piece. The bit to the left was an illustration to show what not to do. Kurt
  5. kurtvd19
    Yes, Lloyd retired and dropped his ad in the NRG's Journal last year (Lloyd was a long time NRG Director). Kurt
  6. kurtvd19
    Roger: Yes, it's the Russell Military Museum accessed from Russel Rd. I always called it the military junkyard until I found out it was a "museum" of sorts. There are some real gems in the collections, some of which are enclosed, while others are just out in the weather. The one PBR is operational and is occasionally operated on the IL Chain of Lakes - thus the IL registration number on the bow shown in the first photo. A neat place to visit - in good weather as it gets muddy if it has rained recently - only $10 admission. Kurt
  7. kurtvd19
    Learned something new. Had no idea there was a difference. Kurt
  8. kurtvd19
    Here are some photos of a PBR that is at a "military museum" on the IL/WI boarder. Might be some details that help. The last 2 photos show the Tamiya PBR front gun tub so you get an idea of the detail in the kit. Kurt
  9. kurtvd19
    You might want to consider picking up the 1/35 scale Tamiya kit of the PBR as the kit's pretty darn accurate and the gun tub details are very crisp and very detailed. Kurt
  10. kurtvd19
    The list can be found here - just click on it and you can see the official up-to-date listing of the prohibited manufacturers. Kurt
  11. kurtvd19
    Blacken-It is no longer produced. It was a small mom and pop place and they passed away in a traffic accident and the company went out of business. There are other blackening agents - just be sure to use one that is made for your metal -Brass blackening agents will not work on white metal and vice versa. As to using acrylic paints on metal - there is no reason not to. Just be sure to clean them well. A primer can help but also a bath in an etching agent gives a "tooth" to the metal that helps with paint adhesion. Again, be sure to clean off the etching agent. There are several threads on blackening metals that you can do a search for. Kurt
  12. kurtvd19
    Larry: Welcome to the NRG's Model Ship World. Go to the Member's Build Logs section and click on the kit builds topic and there are guidelines on the first page to tell you everything you need to know. Happy modeling, Kurt
  13. kurtvd19
    Roger is 100% correct. I once had the part number - direct from Charlie File's son - when I had to replace a bearing. Sold the sander and dumped the note but it was a standard bearing. Kurt
  14. kurtvd19
    Every boat I have been on (fresh water guy - they are all boats) the compensator balls were red and green. On one tug they were labeled with white paint, the appropriate Port or Starboard. I think it was a joke that remained for years. I built a model of that tug for the owner and was very tempted to label the balls on the model's binnacle like the prototype's. Kurt
  15. kurtvd19
    Bruce: Here are two photos of the model by Sam Parent of MN from the 2015 contest at the WI Maritime Museum. This model won best of show in addition to a gold medal and best novice model. It was Sam's first ship model. There are a lot of great details added to Sam's model. He made the bricks for the stove of the same material I used in the magazine series but used the basswood laser cut form that the wood "bricks"were cut out of - filled with the clay, baked and pushed out of the form. A lot easier than the method I used and much more uniform. Glad the articles are helping. Kurt
  16. kurtvd19
    Anybody contemplating using scalpel blades should consider getting a beefier handle than the stamped metal handles sold for surgery as there is little force used in surgical procedures whereas we tend to exert a bit more force and using the surgical handles gets old real quick. Borrowed one of those from my wife quickly gave it back and bought the ones shown below. I use the metal one for fine work and the red one for less critical stuff. When the metal handle needs a new blade the blade in the red handle is thrown away and it gets the used blade from the metal handle. The swapped blade is still plenty sharp. Stropping is routine for blades in my shop. I still have a bunch of Xacto blades/handles but use the scalpel blades most. Each of the handles below cost less than $7.00 each with the red plastic one costing more than the metal one! Both were obtained from ebay (with free shipping - the only way I buy on ebay). Kurt
  17. kurtvd19
    Welcome to MSW Kurt
  18. kurtvd19
    I use Swann-Morton #25a blades. They are a lot cheaper if you get the non-sterilized blades. Have found them on both Amazon and ebay You might want to get a plastic handle like this (just an example) https://www.amazon.com/OdontoMed2011®-SCALPEL-PLASTIC-VETERINARY-INSTRUMENTS/dp/B01EC46Q52/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1511647956&sr=8-9&keywords=scalpel+handle+4 Kurt
  19. kurtvd19
    Surgical blades are the way to go. Xacto or Excel both will loosen if you apply pressure that loosens the tightening nut. The surgical blades lock in place and prevent this. Kurt
  20. kurtvd19
    Ship-it: Go to the last post on the last page of the link Chris provided about the banned kits issue - to see if your kit mfg. is listed. You can skip all of the prior posts - as the last post is the final word on the issue. Kurt
  21. kurtvd19
    The stack should not face into the wind - otherwise the stack doesn't work and it gets real smokey below decks real quick besides playing havoc with the stove fire. Kurt
  22. kurtvd19
    Thanks for the reminder Eric. Just posted it there. Thanks, Kurt
  23. kurtvd19
    I just got a new listing of towboat and riverboat plans available from John Fryant of Paddlewheels & Props. He now has the Alan Bates plans available - I was worried that these plans were lost to us when Alan died. I thought I would share them with the other riverboat fans. Kurt PADDLE WHEEL - PROPS - FRYANTS- PRICE LIST 11-17.pdf
  24. kurtvd19
    Eric: I just got a new listing of towboat and riverboat plans available from John Fryant of Paddlewheels & Props. He now has the Alan Bates plans available - I was worried that these plans were lost to us when Alan died. I thought I would share them with you and the other riverboat fans following your build log. Kurt PADDLE WHEEL - PROPS - FRYANTS- PRICE LIST 11-17.pdf
  25. kurtvd19
    I would go with a flat barn red or oxide red - same color just different names depending on your source. Any shade of the oxide red would be good. Applied over a white primer it will be lighter and over a black primer it would be darker. No primer - neutral. Absolutely no gloss paint. Kurt

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