kurtvd19

Based on popular demand and multiple requests, a package of smaller door handles is now available.   This multi-pack gives you 30 each of the 3/16" tall handles and now 1/8" tall handles.
 
In addition ....a multi pack of smaller door hinges is also available.   You get 16 each of 1/8" and 3/16" tall Hinges.   In both styles....
 

 

Looks great Eric.
Brian, I use one of the magnetic squaring jigs when it's possible to build off the model.  When it's scratch I always use it.

The books are a great addition - really personalizes the model.

Looks great Eric.
Brian, I use one of the magnetic squaring jigs when it's possible to build off the model.  When it's scratch I always use it.

Looks great Eric.
Brian, I use one of the magnetic squaring jigs when it's possible to build off the model.  When it's scratch I always use it.

Looks great Eric.
Brian, I use one of the magnetic squaring jigs when it's possible to build off the model.  When it's scratch I always use it.

Looks great Eric.
Brian, I use one of the magnetic squaring jigs when it's possible to build off the model.  When it's scratch I always use it.

Not back in that cabin….take a look at the original draft.   The captains stateroom is on the lower platform….an even smaller space.  These were small vessels and working mainly coastal.  
 
Smaller crew and even smaller spaces.  Heres a look at the original draft and cabin spaces.
 

 


 

Well, I said I'd work on either the hog chains or the main cabin, and for once I stuck to the plan.
 
Building the rest of the cabin was mercifully straightforward, to the point that I didn't take many in-progress shots. I used some sheets of board-and-batten wood left over from past model railroad projects to lay out the walls, and scavenged close-enough windows from my scrap box. Here are the walls well underway, showing the bracing in the back and the carefully cut-and-fit holes for inserting the windows:

I painted everything white, then glassed in the windows the same way as the pilot house (CA plus scrap clear packaging), then added shades using some old sailcloth material from a past ship kit. When that was done, I assembled the structure using my magnetic squaring jig:
 

And here's the result:
 

Here's the cabin test-fit on the rest of the model, with relevant photos in the background:
 


It's been stressful around here lately and I needed a simple project that didn't require too much thought. This fit the bill perfectly. Doing the roof should be easy, too. Then I'll mark its location carefully and start laying out the hog chain braces.
 
Thanks as always for following along and giving feedback, whether through likes or comments. You all keep me going!

Model Expo has licensed the Midwest line of boat models from Midwest and are now manufacturing the kits.  Check their catalog.  They are also distributing some of the kits to Micro Mark.  Check/compare the prices.  Model Expo likely lower.
 

One of the benefits of working at 1/32" scale is of course the size.  I think its easier to handle the parts and keep things neat and tidy.  But in addition to that you can really get a lot of details in there.  Stuff I would never attempt to add on smaller scales.  Further, 1/32 and better yet 1/35 scale is a very popular modeling scale.  There are so many aftermarket parts and details available for builders at this scale.  This includes figures and accessories.  Like the small cups and pitcher.   Its all readily available on Etsy or Ebay.   Its also fun to just look.   I am waiting on a few other things I made add.  
 
The barrels are Syren barrels.   I am also getting some new ones in stock I think you guys will like.   It might be a while though.
 

The checker is still very tiny but that is laser cut by me including small very teensy checkers.  The stools are also laser cut in cedar and very differnt from the cushy chairs in the great cabin for the officers.
 

The cups and tea cups and teapot are all 3d prints from EBAY.  They were cheap and there are so many to choose from....you can add crates and boxes full of food and pots and pans and utensils. Its really just up to you and how much fun you might want to have with it.
 

The officer in the great cabin is from Vanguard.  It had a tall hat so I removed that and just shaped some hair in the traditional pony tail of the day.   I didnt want to really paint these items as I want them to all fade into the background.  I want to keep it all very suggestive and simple.   So rather than paint everything with realistic coloring with all the uniform colors and fanfare,  I am just finishing all this stuff as if it was wood color...and carved.   Its a minimalist approach so the ship itself takes center stage.  But it will all be covered and just barely visible when the decks are planked.  But still you might just get a glimpse and a happy surprise if you look hard enough.   I think it will be fun.
 
I do actually have a few more 1/32 and 1/35 scale odds and ends coming in the mail.    We shall see if they make the cut and I add them to the model.  I dont want to over do it.  For all you guys who would do the same...try and stick with 1/35 scale details.  They are plentiful and just a tad smaller and look better on the model.
 

 
Chuck
 
 

Model Expo has licensed the Midwest line of boat models from Midwest and are now manufacturing the kits.  Check their catalog.  They are also distributing some of the kits to Micro Mark.  Check/compare the prices.  Model Expo likely lower.
 

I have the Dremel disc/belt combo - kicks up a dust storm - relegated to the wood shop where the dust doesn't matter. 
Got the Byrnes disc sander - it captures 99.9% of the dust, and is a world apart from the Dremel unit.  I was impressed that the Byrnes unit keeps spinning for darn near a full minute after killing the power - that's a matter of mass and great balance.  The disc runs true with no movement along the axis - the Dremel quits spinning in about 3 seconds and there is very noticeable movement along the axis. 
The Dremel disc will never be used on a model again - the belt is OK for non-model use but when the last belt I have is worn out the garbage guy can have the unit.
All that said I personally think it's a better unit than the one that started this thread.
Kurt

The bit pins are 9” square posts.  The crosspiece is 8’ x 10” x 3” and connects the two pins.  It is morticed into the pins 3’ above the deck.  Shape the ends of the crosspiece as seen in the picture.  I raided my scrap box again for these pieces but the kit will contain the correct thickness of basswood to construct them.

 
I used the previously drilled pilot holes to locate the centers of the bitt pins and lightly  traced the outline of the bitt pin onto the deck.  A series of holes was drilled inside the outline and they were connected with a #11 blade.  They were enlarged with files until the openings were just large enough to allow the bit pin to pass through them.  They will not be permanently installed until later to make installing the mast easier.

This is how the model looks with everything temporarily installed.

Other than installing the channels, the hull is complete.  Next, the wale was painted.  The hull planking was masked off above and below the wale.  I used three coats of artist’s acrylic paint diluted 1:3 paint to water, sanding with 400 grit sandpaper between coats.  I remove the tape as soon as the last coat has been applied to prevent paint adhering to the tape.


 

The NRG is an educational organization, dedicated to providing our members with the knowledge to improve the quality of their model ship building.  One of the most common problems model builders have is rigging their model.  Kit instructions are poor.  Often, the materials provided in the kit are improperly sized or the cheapest that the manufacturer could obtain.  We all know that blocks are not square!  I wanted to develop a project whose purpose would be to teach ship modelers how to mast and rig a ship without having to build a complete hull.  This model is a 1:48 scale cross-section at the level of the main mast of a late 18th century British sloop of war, Swallow 1779.  To keep the size of the model manageable and eliminate the need for a building board, the hull is cut off just above the waterline.  For the same reason, only the center portion of the lower yard and the lower part of the topmast are constructed.  Also, because this is a cross-section, certain lines, such as the stays and backstays, are not included.  My emphasis will be on demonstrating techniques to improve your rigging skills.  Skills that can be used on your next project.
 
As this was developed as a teaching aid, certain shortcuts and compromises to historical accuracy were taken.  Wherever possible, I have used measurements provided by the plans and such authorities as Steel and Lees.  I apologize in advance to the master modelers who might criticize my shortcuts.  I have kept the use of power tools to a minimum.  The only thing that is outside the normal collection of hand tools is a serving machine.  The Guild hopes to begin selling this kit in the next few months.
 
The kit contains all the materials required to complete the model.  But I always keep my scrap box nearby for those times when a piece of a contrasting color wood is desirable.  I will mention those times as the build log progresses.  Also, the build log is made up from the best photographs taken from three builds of this model.  A sharp eye will notice some differences in the wood color because of that.
 
The hull is constructed in typical plank on bulkhead style.  There is a notched spine and notched bulkheads.  The laser cut sheet of one-eighth inch basswood ply also contains a template for the top and four types of spacers, A through D. 

The spine and the frames are assembled as seen below.  Frame 1 is installed with the printing facing aft.  This gave me the option of painting the exposed bulkhead after construction was completed.


 
The mast fits in the slanted slot between Frames 3 and 4.  To keep the mast vertical, support spacers are glued on both sides of the spine.  They will be sanded flush to the spine when the hull is faired. 


To prevent the hull from twisting and to strengthen it, spacers are placed between each frame.  The three aft spacers are “B”, the next one is “C” and the two foremost ones are “D”.  They are placed close to the edge of the frame for maximum stability.  The laser char only needs to be removed from the fore and aft sides so that their surfaces are flat.  If too much wood is sanded off, I glue strips of paper onto the edge as a filler to prevent distorting the hull.
 
The hull and deck were faired so there are smooth curves fore to aft.  I used a sanding block for this.  I did not fair the bulwark extensions (the thin strips of wood above the deck) to prevent them from breaking off.  This model has a significant camber to the deck.  Sanding sticks help getting into the corners.  You can see that the mast supports have been sanded down to match the height of the deck.

Next up is planking the hull.
 
 

I can't remember the brand as there were several saws made with this junk motor type.  Jarmac? for the brand possibly.  A lot of end play so the blade kind of goes where it wants and it goes way too fast.    It's wort $5 at the most sorry but it's junk.
 

The books are a great addition - really personalizes the model.

The books are a great addition - really personalizes the model.

The books are a great addition - really personalizes the model.

My daughter was very complimentary about my latest model.  But she said I had to put something on the table.  It looked too bare and boring.   So not wanting to disappoint my lovely daughter I added some laser cut books.   Yes that is a very very tiny Seawatch book about Speedwell Volume 1 I believe.   Great reading while at sail on those quiet evenings!!
 
The cupola really isnt that shiny....its just the very bright overhead light and the photo camera lights.  It is actually much darker and subdued.  I think.  LOL.
 
 
The books are just 1/4" tall so very very very tiny.  Cleaned up after laser cutting and ready for a printed cover scaled down....But here you see them in the raw state.   These are right off the laser cutter and just sanded to remove the char.  The close ups are brutal but they look really good at regular viewing.  About the size of your fingernail.
 

I can't remember the brand as there were several saws made with this junk motor type.  Jarmac? for the brand possibly.  A lot of end play so the blade kind of goes where it wants and it goes way too fast.    It's wort $5 at the most sorry but it's junk.
 

I can't remember the brand as there were several saws made with this junk motor type.  Jarmac? for the brand possibly.  A lot of end play so the blade kind of goes where it wants and it goes way too fast.    It's wort $5 at the most sorry but it's junk.
 

I can't remember the brand as there were several saws made with this junk motor type.  Jarmac? for the brand possibly.  A lot of end play so the blade kind of goes where it wants and it goes way too fast.    It's wort $5 at the most sorry but it's junk.
 

Tired of making all those repetitive parts by hand?  Bluejacket Shipcrafters offers custom laser work in laser board, styrene, and wood.  Here are a couple examples.  The top image is a portion of a .015" laser board sheet that has gratings, scroll work, companion doors, and mast hoops. 
The lower image shows a custom laminated door for a customer who was designing and building an HO scale fire station.  From left to right - clear styrene for the window glass, .015" laser board components, and the assembled doors.  
For more information or to discuss a potential project, contact al@bluejacketinc.com .

Greg convinced me!!!  I also spent a great deal of time looking at the contemporary model.   I also decided to coper the top of the doorway.  It just made sense to do that.   I painted a plain piece of paper with the copper paint and cut a narrow strip.  This allowed me to leave a nice neat edge on the front of the bulkhead.  I left just a 1/64" of the top showing so it looks like molding around the doorway.  I am sure I will get used it over time.