kurtvd19

I have made and used the type of soldering jig described.  I was not bothered much by the torch's effect on the wood as I used my Smith Little Torch.  However, I kept a bowl of water and a good sized ratty paint brush right next to my soldering spot on the bench in case of fire.  I used it a few times to knock down smoldering areas before flames would appear.  I also have a fire extinguisher real close.  Be prepared rather than being sorry you were not prepared.
Kurt

I have made and used the type of soldering jig described.  I was not bothered much by the torch's effect on the wood as I used my Smith Little Torch.  However, I kept a bowl of water and a good sized ratty paint brush right next to my soldering spot on the bench in case of fire.  I used it a few times to knock down smoldering areas before flames would appear.  I also have a fire extinguisher real close.  Be prepared rather than being sorry you were not prepared.
Kurt

I have made and used the type of soldering jig described.  I was not bothered much by the torch's effect on the wood as I used my Smith Little Torch.  However, I kept a bowl of water and a good sized ratty paint brush right next to my soldering spot on the bench in case of fire.  I used it a few times to knock down smoldering areas before flames would appear.  I also have a fire extinguisher real close.  Be prepared rather than being sorry you were not prepared.
Kurt

I have made and used the type of soldering jig described.  I was not bothered much by the torch's effect on the wood as I used my Smith Little Torch.  However, I kept a bowl of water and a good sized ratty paint brush right next to my soldering spot on the bench in case of fire.  I used it a few times to knock down smoldering areas before flames would appear.  I also have a fire extinguisher real close.  Be prepared rather than being sorry you were not prepared.
Kurt

Thanks Rusty...
 
Just a small update...
 
Now that the aft platforms are completed it made sense to plank the great cabin next.   First thing to do was add the laser cut deck clamps.   These have notches cut for the qdeck beams.   You can see the deck clamp added below.   The aft side needs to be beveled to fit flush against the transom.   The forward side is left a bit long so you can trim it to fit neatly in place.  That forward-most beam notch is a bit longer to give us some wiggle room later for the placement of that beam.  In addition before gluing it in...you must shape where the qbadge window is.  Sand the shape into the bottom edge of the deck clamp as shown.  Because it could be in a slightly different position model-to-model, this detail is not laser cut into the deck clamp.
 
NOTE the red arrow.   The bottom of the notch in the clamp should be even with the top of the window or even slightly higher.  But it should not be below the top edge of the windows.   If it is, you should make adjustments before gluing it onto the model.  In addition, the bottom of these beam notches should NOT be altered.  However, when you test fit the beams and find you need to make adjustments, you can absolutely enlarge the notches on the sides and top for a better fit.   Just carefully chisel out some of the deck clamp or the planking above it to accommodate your beams.  

 
Next we will plank the inboard side of the great cabin.   I am sure most of you could do this without any issues, but to help make it easier, there is a template on the plans.  See below.
This should make it easier to cut each strake with the appropriate tapers.  There are six strakes.  I highly recommend that these planks be cut from a 3/64" sheet as they are somewhat wide at the stern.   Plus they are pretty much all drawn out for you.  I will also add that you may have to make small adjustments because depending on where you aft platform ended up , you may have a slightly different area of space.  Adjust the template accordingly and cut your planks to fit.  Again they are 3/64" thick.
 

Below shows the cabin planked inboard.  I carefully cut around that window and did simulate caulking for the plank seams.  I just used full length planks rather than show any possible butt joints.  They wont be seen anyway.  Note the forward edge of the planking runs down the FORWARD edge of the hull frame.  Keep the forward esge nice and neat right down the edge of that hull frame.
 
You might see some laser cut qdeck beams in that picture as well.  They are just laying on the lower platform.  Although we wont be adding them just yet, it will be to our benefit to have them handy while we do the next steps of fitting out the cabin benches and rudder trunk details.  The laser char was removed from the deck beams and they were cut to length.  It takes some practice on the first few to get the length correct so they sit nicely in those notches.  But dont throw it away if you cut it too short.  Just use it for the next shorter beam and work from the forward side aft when doing this.
 

 
Test fitting the qdeck beams....none are glued in as I mentioned.  Note the extra space on the first beam at the deck clamp notch.   This will let us move it around where needed when we start work on the bulkheads there.  If any of you are having a problem slipping the beams into those notches, you could easily add  another strip of say 1/8 x 1/32 cedar following the bottom of the notches and it would be fine.  I did not find the need to do that however.  But you might find it easier if there was a second layer that stood proud of the planking a bit to rest your beams on.  Builder's choice...
 

Eric:
The walled off areas alongside the stairs was for coal storage.  I have seen photographs of coal in burlap bags being carried onto boats.  Sometimes on backs or shoulders and also in wheelbarrows.  If building the Chaperon today, and not for a magazine deadline, I would absolutely insulate to top area of the boilers.  Most photos I have of steam engines and their steam pipes don't show insulation on the pipes or the engines.  Back then the fuel was cheap and conserving fuel or steam wasn't much of a concern.
Kurt

I finished up the aft platforms...
 
They were both planked with the scuttle lids being finished as described earlier.   But then two upright timbers were cut to length (3/16 x 3/16) and placed on both sides of the open hatchway.  This gives it more support so you can Carefully cut away the beam between them.  It will look like the pic below when done.

Then you can make the short ladder that goes in that opening between platforms.   This is typical and laser cut for you.  The only difference is that this ladder is tilted or skewed sideways.   Its an interesting detail.   The reason for this will become clear when we start building out all of the cabins.  There is a small square with the angle you will need for this ladder on the plans.  See below.

This is what it looks like in position. Brutal close-ups...
 

Then I figured it would be fun to build and install the shot lockers.
 
All pieces are laser cut. The sides were glued on top of the back piece first.  They were placed at right angles neatly.  
 

Then the front is added...which is shorter and has laser etched plank details.
 

Next comes the top piece.  This was laser cut a bit wider than needed for wiggle room.   It was glued on top and then the back side was sanded flush where the top hung over the edge.  The lids were also prepared.  It is one piece with some laser etched details.  Basically you have to bevel the top and bottom edges.  Quite a bit as you can see.
 

Here the lid piece was added. It has etched reference marks for the hinges.  The hinges are laser board and added the same way we did them for the fire hearth. The top and bottom halves of the hinge are separate pieces.   They are glued on first.  Then to finish them up a small length of 24 gauge black wire was used to simulate the hinge pins between them.
 
 
And finally added to the model...you may have to adjust the height of the shot locker AS you are building it.  It all depends on whether or not you placed the height of the aft platform differently.   Maybe you placed the platform lower and thus your shot locker may have to be shorter.   Measure twice and cut once sort of thing...its so important to get the platform heights correct.  But if you didnt, thats OK...just do some problem solving and with some adjustments you will be just fine.  I would even go as far to suggest that you test the back piece in position before you assemble the shot locker.  Then you will know if its too tall or short and you can adjust accordingly.
 

 
 
 

I roughly trimmed the deck back with a knife and then sanded it smooth to the beams. The edges look rough but it doesn't matter because they'll get wrapped with a piece of trim.

Next it was time to cut the access hole for the staircase. I measured out its approximate location, drilled some pilot holes, then slowly started cutting away the opening with a sharp knife. A few shots of the sequence:
 



And here's the deck with its cute little access hole:

 
And here's a teaser for work underway, fidding with the pilot house and chimneys:
 

Thanks for following along!
 

Badger's acrylic paints use distilled water for thinning.  Distilled water is so cheap and easy to get I have not even thought of using other fluids.
 

Each paint mfg has a proprietary additive for their paints.  I wouldn't stray from the mfg's product w/o testing.  NOT on your model.

Each paint mfg has a proprietary additive for their paints.  I wouldn't stray from the mfg's product w/o testing.  NOT on your model.

Each paint mfg has a proprietary additive for their paints.  I wouldn't stray from the mfg's product w/o testing.  NOT on your model.

I use Badger's STYNYLREZ primers before the finish paint but often just use the STYNYLREZ as both primer and finish coat.  These primers come in 18 colors.
 
Prep of metal parts is a dip in heated Sparex  (I use a small crock pot as it will not boil liquids and it is IMPORTANT to not boil Sparex) for several minutes with a thorough rinse of plain water and then I air dry the parts without touching the parts with bare hands.  I use exam gloves w/o powder.  When thoroughly dry I prime the parts with STYNYLREZ and let them dry thoroughly.
 
The STYNYLREZ name is to show it is usable on Polystyrene, nylon and resin.  But it also works great on metals and wood.  If thinned use distilled water.  Also, Badger recommends STYNYLREZ a point .05 needle (or larger).

Correct Ron.  I always wipe the needle with Regdab - it is simply a needle lube and each mfg has their own - when I reinsert the needle after cleaning.  I put a drop of  it on a clean rag and drag the needle through it and then lightly wipe the needle before inserting it into the brush.  Always wipe towards the tip - you don't want to stick yourself with the extremely sharp point - and you might bend the point too.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Continuing with the lower platforms...there are two aft platforms.  They are framed exactly like the two forward ones.   Mark out the heights for the frames etc.  I wont go through the step by step and instead just mention the a couple of noteworthy things.  
 
There is another jig that helps with finding the height and position of the first beam on the upper platform.   Dont throw it away after using it.  It will come in handy later.  Note that the mizzen mast partner is laser cut for you.   Its a little longer on the forward and aft sides so you can adjust its position over the mast step to match the plans.  
 

Just as with the forward platforms...use the plans as templates to help fins the proper positions of those ledges for the scuttle openings as well.   Using them as templates helps so much and really help you see the final product.
 

Now that the framing is done,  the next stage is to plank the lowest platform.   Once again the templates of these really helps.   Everything is laid out on them.  Note how the deck planking hangs over the forward beam.  The planks also run over the aft beam as well.   Use the string to keep everything lined up down the center.
 

It was hard to keep everything focused in this last picture because the camera wanted to only focus on the string....but here I have attempted to show the templates positioned down the center line.  They fit perfectly.   I will be back with more pics after the planking is done and I start to cut some beams on that after-most platform for the stairs...
 
Its just busy work for a while getting the planking done.  You should keep these templates because it will make life very easy when it comes to laying out all those cabins later in the project.
 

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

It is important that the Sparex doesn't boil (can't remember the exact hazard that results) but the crock pot can't get hot enough to boil the liquid.  So any heat source that doesn't boil it is OK.  The crock pot is perfect because it's got no metal - remember Greg's warning about using copper tongs - Sparex can't be stored or used in a metal container.
Kurt

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.

Members who do not know Charlie Cozewith as he hasn't posted on MSW much, should know that he is a long time NRG member and I will personally vouch for him being trustworthy and you should not have reservations about dealing with him.