Jeff-E

Hello All,
The following photos are of the finished model and were taken back in 2016. Please excuse the clutter in the background.
                           
                           
                           
                           
                           
 

Hello All,
The last things to do on the model were to fit the anchors and tidy up the paint work on the cross section and fit the photo etched knee brackets.
The first two photos show the cross section painted and the second the knees temporarily in place.
                            
                             
The anchors were made up from the kit parts and primed.
                             
They were then painted black and the puddening was added to the rings.
                            
They were attached to the anchor cable using a clinch knot which was seized with 0.10mm natural thread, they were then rigged and hung from the catheads.
                            
                             
Thanks for looking.

Now i test the position of the first deck.As you see the deck consists from 4 parts,so i must try if they fit right....Thanks God they fit good whitout major gaps. The small gap will covered with the plank. I put the first two of them,starting from the center front,leaving space for the plank that i put above the gap of the two parts. I decide that is better to put that plank after i glue the deck in place,so i can cover well the small gap. Lets see what will happen...

Hello All,
After the structure had dried the frames were faired.
        
       
The stempost in the first photo is only temporarily fitted. I have decided to leave the stempost and keel off the model until the first planking is completed.
The next job was to fit the gunport patterns, they are cut from 0.8mm ply and are fairly fragile so I made a jig from a strip of 2mm aluminium bent around the gunport former to give me their shape at the bow.
      
      
The ply gunport patterns were then soaked in water for about 1 hour and then clamped to the jig and allowed to dry.
      
After they had dried they were glued to the model following the instructions in the manual.
      
      
The model was then set aside to dry for 24 hrs.
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 
 
 

Hello All,
After all the preparations were completed on the false keel it was time to glue the bulkheads to it.
     
     
While they were drying the lower deck was planked. I chose a 3 butt shift pattern for this deck, the planks were cut to length and the caulking was simulated by darkening the sides and ends of the planks with a pencil and the trunnels were simulated by drilling a 0.3mm hole in the plank and touching the hole with a pencil.
     
     
Once the keel and bulkheads had dried support blocks were glued either side of the mounting holes on the false keel, these were made from offcuts of the plywood held the bulkheads.
     
The lower deck and the gunport former were then glued on and the assembly was set aside to dry for 24 hours.
     
Thanks for looking and the likes.
     
 
 

Hello All, 
As mentioned in post#11 some of the frames were a loose fit on the false keel, both fore and aft and athwart ships. To rectify this problem spacers made from 0.5mm timber were glued to either side of slot in the frame and to the fore or aft side of the slot in the false keel, a centre line was also marked onto the frames and the spine of the keel for alignment purposes while they were sanded.
               
     
After they dried they were sanded until they were a snug fit on the false keel, being careful to take a small amount off each side of the slot to ensure the marks lined up. They were then dry fitted to the keel again.
    
    
I decided I wanted to mount the model on pedestals, as suggested in the manual, so the next job was to drill mounting holes through the keel and into the false keel. There are two mounting holes one positioned between frames three and four and the second between frames five and six aft of the slot for the mainmast, also as mentioned in post#11 I intend to not to attach the keel and stem post until after the fairing of the frames is completed, so I also drilled some dowel holes in the keel, stem and sternpost to help align them squarely to the false keel and to strengthen the joint.
   
   
   
The size of the mounting holes is 3mm and the dowel holes are 1 mm and will be fitted with bamboo dowels when the keel and stem are fitted.
thanks for looking and the likes.
     

Thank you Richard for your kind comments.
 
Hi All,
 
The next job was to rig the anchors. This was fairly straight forward the anchor cable was fed through the hawse hole and wrapped twice around the winch, with the free end going into the cable hole in the deck. The cat head was rigged along with a three hole 7mm block which had a hook glued into one end of it, this was hooked through the anchor ring
 

 

 
The block was rigged 0.25mm cord, starting at the eye pin on the cat head and reeving it through the block and cat head, finnishing at the cleat on the cat head.
 

 

 
I got the cord to hang realistically by hanging a weight off the anchor ring and cable and painting it with a solution of diluted PVA glue.
There was no provision in the kit for stowing the anchors. So I fitted two eye bolts to the cap rail on each side so the anchor arms could be secured
 

 

Two more pictures

Hello All,
After the structure had dried the frames were faired.
        
       
The stempost in the first photo is only temporarily fitted. I have decided to leave the stempost and keel off the model until the first planking is completed.
The next job was to fit the gunport patterns, they are cut from 0.8mm ply and are fairly fragile so I made a jig from a strip of 2mm aluminium bent around the gunport former to give me their shape at the bow.
      
      
The ply gunport patterns were then soaked in water for about 1 hour and then clamped to the jig and allowed to dry.
      
After they had dried they were glued to the model following the instructions in the manual.
      
      
The model was then set aside to dry for 24 hrs.
All comments welcome.
Thanks for looking and the likes.
 
 
 

Hello All,
After all the preparations were completed on the false keel it was time to glue the bulkheads to it.
     
     
While they were drying the lower deck was planked. I chose a 3 butt shift pattern for this deck, the planks were cut to length and the caulking was simulated by darkening the sides and ends of the planks with a pencil and the trunnels were simulated by drilling a 0.3mm hole in the plank and touching the hole with a pencil.
     
     
Once the keel and bulkheads had dried support blocks were glued either side of the mounting holes on the false keel, these were made from offcuts of the plywood held the bulkheads.
     
The lower deck and the gunport former were then glued on and the assembly was set aside to dry for 24 hours.
     
Thanks for looking and the likes.
     
 
 

Hello All, 
As mentioned in post#11 some of the frames were a loose fit on the false keel, both fore and aft and athwart ships. To rectify this problem spacers made from 0.5mm timber were glued to either side of slot in the frame and to the fore or aft side of the slot in the false keel, a centre line was also marked onto the frames and the spine of the keel for alignment purposes while they were sanded.
               
     
After they dried they were sanded until they were a snug fit on the false keel, being careful to take a small amount off each side of the slot to ensure the marks lined up. They were then dry fitted to the keel again.
    
    
I decided I wanted to mount the model on pedestals, as suggested in the manual, so the next job was to drill mounting holes through the keel and into the false keel. There are two mounting holes one positioned between frames three and four and the second between frames five and six aft of the slot for the mainmast, also as mentioned in post#11 I intend to not to attach the keel and stem post until after the fairing of the frames is completed, so I also drilled some dowel holes in the keel, stem and sternpost to help align them squarely to the false keel and to strengthen the joint.
   
   
   
The size of the mounting holes is 3mm and the dowel holes are 1 mm and will be fitted with bamboo dowels when the keel and stem are fitted.
thanks for looking and the likes.
     

So now down to the build.
 
The first thing to do was to sand the Bearding line on the false keel. The measurements and profile of this are found on plan 1. They instruct you to sand the keel down from 5mm at the start of the bearding line to 3mm at the stern thus when the first layer of planking is laid it will again be 5mm at the stern post. After the first planking has been laid you are then to sand the first layer of planking, following the same bearding line, again to a width of 3mm at the stern. This does present a slight problem as the first plank strakes are only 1mm thick so to sand them down to a width of 3mm at the stern means there would be no plank left  .To overcome this I have decided to sand the first planking down to a width of 4mm at the stern and then sand the second planking down to the finished width of 5mm. So only taking 0.5mm off each run of planks.  
 
To assist me so that the line remains the same through each stage I made a template out of thin cardboard


 
 
 
 
 
Then I marked the line on the false keel and sanded it back




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Excellent work Bertu, those gunport lids will look stunning when completed with their rigging.

I have shaped the profiles that have to run from the cat-head supports to the upper rail.  It wasn't easy, I had to heat the profile to bend sideways.

 
Continued work on the upper gundeck lids. Fixed hinges.

 
Fixed eyelets, the 3mm once supplied with the kit and added rings to them I made from copper wire as I couldn't find small enough for the job. 



 
Adding thread to the gun-port lids.  In the instructions manual it tells you to drill 5mm holes in the hull and insert the other end of the thread in it.  I wanted to make something more realistic to the real once.

 
 
I had some very small brass tubing, 1mm x .225mm thin wall, cut very small pieces, about 4mm/5mm in length and blackened them.  I will drill a hole in the hull were the tubing will be inserted and glued leaving just a small part protruding out.  The thread will be inserted inside the tube.

 
This is one of the lids fitted in place.  There are a few of the lids which are just under the channels and it would be very difficult to fit with the channels in place so I fitted them before the channels.

 
I fitted the chain plates to the dead eyes before I glued the channels in place.  I blackened the chain plates.  When I dry fitted the channels I realised that for some reason the base of the chain plates that is pinned to the hull was not really in the right place, they were lower.  Good thing the channels were still just dry fitted because I had to reopen some of the chains and shorten them by cutting off part of them  and reshaping them again. 

 
Profile from cat-head support to rail in place, black paint needs retouching.  Channels fitted in place and chain plates pinned in place.  This is the port side.  Still have to pin the chain plates on the starboard side as I ran out of round headed pins and I am waiting for some more from CBM.  When pinning the lower parts of the chain plates I suggest you temporarily block the gunports below, I used masking tape,  as it is quite easy to drop the lower part of the chain plate inside one of them and there is no way you can get it back and you have no extra once.  Don't remember how many times I dropped them on the floor and had to look for them until I find them knowing I have no extras.




 
Robert

Added some parts, and tested the mast

Just over 1200 knots later, the Bounty ratlines are all done. 

Hello All,
After all the preparations were completed on the false keel it was time to glue the bulkheads to it.
     
     
While they were drying the lower deck was planked. I chose a 3 butt shift pattern for this deck, the planks were cut to length and the caulking was simulated by darkening the sides and ends of the planks with a pencil and the trunnels were simulated by drilling a 0.3mm hole in the plank and touching the hole with a pencil.
     
     
Once the keel and bulkheads had dried support blocks were glued either side of the mounting holes on the false keel, these were made from offcuts of the plywood held the bulkheads.
     
The lower deck and the gunport former were then glued on and the assembly was set aside to dry for 24 hours.
     
Thanks for looking and the likes.
     
 
 

Hello All, 
As mentioned in post#11 some of the frames were a loose fit on the false keel, both fore and aft and athwart ships. To rectify this problem spacers made from 0.5mm timber were glued to either side of slot in the frame and to the fore or aft side of the slot in the false keel, a centre line was also marked onto the frames and the spine of the keel for alignment purposes while they were sanded.
               
     
After they dried they were sanded until they were a snug fit on the false keel, being careful to take a small amount off each side of the slot to ensure the marks lined up. They were then dry fitted to the keel again.
    
    
I decided I wanted to mount the model on pedestals, as suggested in the manual, so the next job was to drill mounting holes through the keel and into the false keel. There are two mounting holes one positioned between frames three and four and the second between frames five and six aft of the slot for the mainmast, also as mentioned in post#11 I intend to not to attach the keel and stem post until after the fairing of the frames is completed, so I also drilled some dowel holes in the keel, stem and sternpost to help align them squarely to the false keel and to strengthen the joint.
   
   
   
The size of the mounting holes is 3mm and the dowel holes are 1 mm and will be fitted with bamboo dowels when the keel and stem are fitted.
thanks for looking and the likes.
     

Hi Mugje,
Thank you, I have had a look at your build and you did a fantastic job on it!👍

Very nice work on the cannons.👍

Everyone: I finally did it.. after the last couple of years (yes.. years...) I have finally got the standing rigging done on the Agamemnon. This project has gone way tooo long but now that I have the Winchelsea on the horizon Im putting the pedal to the medal on the Agamemnon.. I never thought I would get to this point after seeing the masts unrigged for so many years. And last night I cut the length on my first spar (lower foresail). A new chapter has started. I still have launches, anchors, stern lights and i suspect lots of other things still to do but i finally feel I see progress... Hope you enjoy the pics!!!!! 
 
Mike Draper

I cut small pieces to glue to the keel to help the rear scrollwork fair with the front scrollwork.

After gluing those on to the keel I then removed one layer off the back of the rear scrollwork piece. This also helped with getting it to fair to the front scrollwork. Had to do a bit off sanding also to get a good fit. Time consuming but it turned out well.

Nice work! Have fun with this great little ship!
 

The next step in the instructions is to fit the stempost and keel, however after some deliberation I am thinking of fitting the bulkheads and plank termination patterns first as this will make it easier to fair them, especially in the bow stem area without fear of accidentally damaging the stem post or keel. Any input on this theory would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have constructed a building board, or rather modified one I had intended for use on another model, and have cut out all the frames and dry fitted them to the false keel. The lower false deck has also been cut out and dry fitted.
 
I still need to check the frames for symmetry and as most of them are a loose fit on the keel to add some small filler pieces to make them fit a bit tighter on the false keel.




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
That is where I am up to at the present moment I will post some more as I make progress