dafi
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Everything posted by dafi
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If one looks at 12 pounder carriage of St. George at Thorsminde of 1811, one could imagine seeing a red paint overpinted with yellw ochre 🙂 This would represent my understanding that slowly the color was changed around 1800 from red to yellow. Look for yourselves. XXXDAn -
Hello Bill, thank you for the question. Have to think. I vaguely remember that there was an issue with the diameter of the provided spars, that made me give different diameters of the rings to find the right size. Stupidly I did not document this in the instructions ... As far as I know, all stun´sails were up at Trafalgar But there were no stun´sail at the main yard as these were not issued any more after an admirality order from 1801 (Lees). This also means, that the spars on the main channels are most possibly for the fore yard stun´sails. But still have to see if my memory does not play me tricks for the different sizes of rings. All the best, DAniel
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Hello Bill, I do not know the color of the printed blocks, but if they are black I just applied a light-brown drybrush on them. It looked much better than a complete coat as the coöor has a bit of variances, just like the wooden ones do. All the best, DAniel
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In parallel, I continued with the periphery of the guns. A first test of the blocks was still a bit too big, but the brown drybrushing did as expected a good job. Therefore the whole thing was redaone a little smaller. Surely another 20% smaller is possible. Note the one double block in the "C" of "Cent" 🙂 And then the question, are they also rigable? Oh yes we can! Here again the dimensions of the smallest, scale was my thinnest rope in 1:100: Thereupon tried some sizes ... ... and the 3 hottest candidates on the model. I then reworked the rigged version with the smallest blocks a bit. Looking at the picture ... ... and realized, crap, the lanyard is twisted. I did not see that in the original, despite strong magnifying glass. So the whole thing decuddled and it fits much better. XXXDAn
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Captn dafi supplement: After my computer was in a reconvalescent home for a few days due to an "eternal boot loop", here's what's been happening lately. Last status was that I ran out of planks. New planks were cut, the old Ikea-shelf has become a bit smaller again http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif Meanwhile the deck is finished and test fitted. Even with guns this fits http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif But in the manger area I had to discover that the deck stands up a bit. But a bit of finger pressure ... ... was remeding it and tamed it and it should be not a problem. While I was at this, I noticed that the entire hull was also totally warped. Midships there was a gap of almost 5mm on both sides in the battery deck. And I had done nothing that could have provoked this - no paint, no glue, no other immoral things that could have sprung from a sick modeler's brain. Hence some bondage ... ... to eventually discover huge gaps on the spar deck aft as well. More bondage then this means. So with this realized, this is truly no longer a shake and fit kit. After that a careful look inside http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif At least this fits reasonably well. Here at the upper deck the carronades of the kit ... ... and then in comparison the English classics from 1795. And from close up you can see the possibilities of the new modular construction http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif Even from the outside, the guns give a completely different picture than the kit parts. XXXDAn
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Thank you Bruce! XXXDAn
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Great work and tremendeous speed! For the rope sizes consult the AOTS MacKay, but take care, the dimensions are in circumderence and not diameter! Scale down the different sizes to about 5 different ones, that will do the job imho. All the best, DAniel
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Wonderful work! Congratulations for the result 🙂 All the best, DAniel
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I had already used this technique on my Victory. Here on the left is the picture from which my avatar comes and next to it a picture of the lower deck of the Vasa Coming in the right direction for me. Just a 100 times smaller 😉 XXXDAn
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So, I continued with some gardening. When gluing, finger cots are recommended, just cut off the tips of an old rubber glove and put them on again individually ... ... but how do I get all the cherry blossoms off the deck afterwards? After gluing, the whole thing looks very messy at first, so I first go over it with the scraper to remove the worst of it. Then comes the sanding block with the coarse 40 grit sandpaper ... ... then the 80 grit and individual planks that are sitting too low are scraped off with the thin chisel. Here are the two states side by side ... ... but slowly it becomes a deck ... ... if I hadn't run out of planks http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif Happy Easter! XXXDAn
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And the next step was planking the deck. The adhesive foil is placed on the black side and the foil is carefully peeled off ... ... the planks with the black side down are glued on with superglue ... ... and then sanded to the same height with 80-grit sandpaper. And the parquet is finished. And now diligence work for the rest of the deck. XXXDAn
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Thank you Eduard, watch this space, who knows 😉 Meanwhile the hopefully final version of the long guns came out of the printer. All the important details are in place, including the cap square key and the coins's handling cord . Also, the supports are now all in such a way that the part almost falls out by itself after printing and hardly any rework is needed. If you cut out the coin and the stool bed, the gun can also be secured well over the port. But other positions also are possible 😉 Parallel to that I cut planks, glued them on self adhesive foil ... ... and sprayed it black. More about this soon. Then the grain structure of the decks was smoothed with sandpaper ... ... and I marked the approximate position of the deck beams underneath. Even if the position of the passages to the orlop deck do not quite match the plans, the concept could be transferred. These beam lines form the alignment of the plank joints, as these had to be nailed into something, as in between the beams the nails would have hung in thin air 😉 Best regards, DAniel
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Hello Tom, nice to see you here! Great start and keep on having fun modeling, that is all it is about 🙂 All the best, Daniel
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The main deck guns of the kit are even real beauties compared to the carronades of the upper deck. From a construction point of view, they are supposed to represent the current state of the equipment, but unfortunately their appearance - especially the barrels - is miles away from the original. That's why I took a little break in my day-to-day business some time ago and programmed new ones, but unfortunately I never got around to presenting them due to lack of time. Here is a comparison: Their construction is based - according to Marquardt's AOTS - to the carronades used from 1795 onwards, which were inspired by the British design. Also on the bottom one finds everything your heart desires: the two-stage slot and the pivot pin with the retaining washer And a dafi certainly wouldn't be a dafi if it didn't also play a bit 😉 The gun above is classically printed as one piece. Of course I couldn't resist to print this additionally as a kit - one is a model builder after all And that gives a whole new set of opportunities. According to contemporary plans, the top carriage can also be pivoted, possibly quite convenient for maintenance or in case of problems with loading. Also the whole gun can now be aligned sideways. If the gun is swivelled too far, the carriage collides with the ship's side. That is why there is a second pivot hole further inside to be found on contemporary plans ... ... with which the gun can be elegantly moved to the wall in order to lash it there. If the slide is pushed further back, even the port can be made clear. And if you want, you can also depict completely different conditions. As always: It remains exciting XXXDAn
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Wonderful work! XXXDAn
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And since then, I've been itching to put these parts onto the deck. Since I still have to do some research on my Vic, I simply used this compulsory break and lifted the pretty girl onto the tinkering table. First I glued the three deck parts together and reinforced them. Funnily enough, the middle part is 1 mm thicker, so the other sides had to be relined. Then cut off the rim for the positioning of the guns ... ... removed the gratings ... ... and the stubs for the ropes had to be cut off as well. Then, while trying to fit the deck, I noticed that the supports were much too far apart and the deck sagged in several places. So I put a small batten atop the supports for alinement and added some extra supports. I dry fitted once more and noticed that the deck did not sit properly. This is probably because the hull is curved at this point and thus the supports were at an angle. But a quick re-pinching quickly eliminated this and the deck could be laid flat. Then the exciting moment, the guns were put on deck ... ... and they are sitting nicely in the middle of the port It remains exciting. Best regards, DAniel
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Welcome to the Jungle! Attentive observers had already discovered the hull of the USS Constitution in my shrubbery for some time. But who now expects a FITZCARALDOOOO downhill is wrong for the time being, it actually goes on in a civilised way The kit has been lying around for quite a while, as it is really great in many aspects, such as the hull, but in others it does not fully meet its own claims, especially with regard to the guns. What could be more obvious than to choose these guns after the purchase of a new printer and to program them in a contemporary correct way. The results were promising ... ... and with a little colour quite convincing ... ... especially compared to the originals from the kit. Grandpa, what big fingers you have!
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@Ian_Grant I think about 5 🙂 Mainbuild 1910 Technology carrier for etch and print oob from someone else for reference new one no wip yet XXXDAn
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Used the nice weather to sand outside. Good for the tinkering cave, the nose and the soul. Just enjoy. XXXDAn
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After raising the bow and stern, it was time for the upper deck. To do this, remove the deck, fix the polysterol strip for the new bulwark with clamps ... ... and scribe the curve of the lower deck with a blade. Then set the cut, put the deck back in, clamped the fitted bulwark piece again and scribed it with a block on the inside to have a uniform height above the deck. Then removed, cut the height cleanly and ... ... glued in place. You can hardly see it, there are little wooden blocks glued under the clamps on the outside of the hull, just like on the bow, so that it is flush on the outside. And slowly it's becoming "something" 😉 The elements on the deck are still orientation aids made of cardboard and not dimensionally adjusted, but you can already see where it's going. The raised bow ... ... the quarterdeck with Nelson's sloop under the poop ... ... the small guard house, behind it two flag boxes still missing and probably the biggest surprise for the most of you ... ... the forecastle over the forecastle, the fore-fore-castle so to speak. Hardly visible from the outside ... ... unless someone is standing on it :-) XXXDAn
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Thank you gentlemen 😀 One already suffers as a model builder 😉 And when I'm not doing such nonsense, I'm busy at the moment with the elevations of the sides. During the rebuilding in 1816 the high round bow was installed according to Seppings. Everything was first a cardboard template. Here is the immensely high new bow ... ... then along the upper deck ... ... and the built poop. A face that only a mother could love - or a dafi http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif Then transfer of the masks to 2 mm polysterol ... ... warm up this round nose part ... ... and pre-bend it. But 2 mm polysterol doesn't quite want to go the way I want, even with heat, so I cold bend it over the edge of the table until it's nice & soft. And for further help I had already installed supports inside ... ... and since I still have concerns, I also glued something on the outside to hold it up, no, it's not hawse-pieces, that's coming off again http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif And somehow it was important now that I got the next parts done, just so for the sore soul ... And now the worst part for me: patience to let it dry well! XXXDAn
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Actually I only wanted to cut a new upper deck. To do this, I put the large 2mm polysterol sheet on the table, pushed the model to the edge and ... ... must have been one of the active gale-force winds, I can't explain it any other way. First look, everything went well. Second look, no, 2 windows are missing, stupid but no problem, I have already produced enough replacements. But then ... ... I had glued the struts for the elevation of the bow on a section of the upper battery deck shortly before. This, of course, was also loose. And when I tried to reattach it I noticed, ****, the hull is suddenly 2 mm wider than before !?!! The two upper decks were only put in without being glued in order to be able to take them out again for the installation of the window panes. But the gap on the side is clearly visible. So I did what was only thought of much later, cut the "carriages" off the windows ... ... and the upper 2 decks were succesively taken out and the culprit was discovered: the lower gun deck. This was the only one glued in and was it broken and tilted and so could not flex back. So I drilled some holes and used hooks to lever the deck back up ... ... and re-glued it well. In the meantime I found 6 more loose windows, but they could all be kept in situ, only one at the very front I had to glue in a replacement part. The other decks are now also back inside and I could continue. XXXDAn
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