dafi

Good morning all.
Druxey that is an interesting Idea. The first experiment where i did use the heat shrink over the two parts
 

 I noticed that the shrink wrap would not shrink down any further it seemed to have stretched out in some way that even if the cables were brought back together next to the dead eye the wrap would not shrink down again, this is why I thought about the straw. The straw seemed to be a good form of a clamp. One of the other ideas I had while doing this was to use a short piece of copper tube and use it as a crimp similar to the aluminum ones that you can purchase to crimp cables.
 
I like the idea if being able to wrap the seizings over something that is holding the cables so that the tension is already being held, this will enable the seizings to be wrapped carefully to get the best visual appearance.
 
Today I will try a few tests to see which of these methods will work the best.
 
John, being that I am using stainless aircraft cable I would have thought that moisture would not be a major issue, any metallurgists out there who could shed some light on this?
 
Mark, I am going to see how much the heat shrink closes up on an open end my bigger worry is a snag on a sheet or cloth on an exposed wire strand.
 
Antony, thank you for stopping by and for your kind thoughts. I see you are from Devon My sister lives in Crediton. Last time I was in England visiting my brothers and sister, we traveled over to St Ives, and Lynton and Lynmouth. We also spent a lovely day at Torquay. all great places to see traditional craft.
 
Michael

Most important messages fast set ...  
 

 

... there she sails, the proud frigate, only the storm jib set, driven by the devastating energy of the elements, riding the crests, her flag beaming with pride, being pushed by her crew to the limit, always facing abyss and downfall!
 

 
The crew is fighting the elements, the earth is splashing high, each hand movement is set with precision. With concision our master guides this pride of the austrian mountain marine towards new shores ... 
 

 


  

... my Heart will go ooooo-o-ho-o-n ...


 
 
 
 

... and the crew becomes one.

  
 

 
But what is this? The pilot missed the ship? Still stands on the far off 
shore? This in these extremely difficult waterways? Hastily the crew puts up the blue and yellow flag ...
 

 
  

... but he? He stays calm ...

  
 

 


... he knows that he is best equipped ...

 
 

 
 

... and so he keeps sailing towards Victory :-)
  



 

 
Epilogue:
Sometimes later, I was taken out of that wonderful dream, being sent downhill again. But this moment, I took it with me ☺
 
Liebe Grüße, Daniel
 
The complete story to be found in german:
http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t532f317-SMS-Trinkstein-in-schweren-Wellenbergen.html

Could you tell me the result please. It's very interesting for me-
 
And now to the idea from Mark
 
I sanded the Main Wales about days and following this I used black stain.
 
How shall I put it?
You are right Mark, it looks mutch better. Thank you, the effort paid off.

 
In fact it's much better to seen as at the photos.
 
And also I planked the Lower Counter

Thanks very much Alexander.
 
Slowly but constant. Here's a new update.
I added the Channel Wale and planks between the Main Wale and the Channel Wale.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Dirk, Kats, Mark, Popeye, Paul, Jan and "Bones" :-) :-) :-)
 
I am already wondering, but nobody dares asking about the title of the thread  ;-)
 
... okokok, before I have to wait too long: dafi, what strange thread title you have ?!?
 
Once upon a time, the shout from the channels was to be heard "By the Deep 17" meaning a little more than 17 fathoms of water were measured, roundabout 30 meters.
 
The line used was  ca. 20 to 25 fathoms long (about 36 to 45 meters) and had marks indicating the depth measured. So the shout "By the Mark XX" meant that it was exactely on the mark and "By the Deep XX" meant it to be above the mark. The marks were at  2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 17 und 20 fathoms (after Nares) and had :
2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red und 20 fathoms two knots.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sounding_line
 
 
So hastily made the 20 fathom line, fitted marks and lead ...
 

 
... and the sound of the falling lead could be heard  :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
"By the Deep ..."
 
XXXDAn

Am I left handed?  .... well... the answer to that is long and convoluted...
I think by default I am right handed... but it could have gone either way...
I play hockey and golf left handed, I can swing a baseball bat either way (although a bit more effective left handed), tennis right handed. I write right, but apparantly way back when I was first being taught to write, I was constantly switching hands, and my teachers would consistently put the pencil back in my right hand... although for all intents and purposes, my hand writing goes from illegible to atrocious....
 
I'm not ambidextrous.. so who knows what the heck I am....
 
Mark, Peter, Popeye, Aldo, and everyone else, thanks for looking in, I'll try not to let all this positive feedback go to my head.
 
 
Anyway... a small progress report... finished the mizzen shrouds. And yes... I probably wrapped the deadeyes incorrectly, but I'm not changing that now.. it isn't something that really bothers me too much... maybe next time.
 
I've still only left the lanyards secure with a single half hitch and I've also left them a bit overlong. When I get the stay on, then I'll do a final tension adjustment and secure everything properly.
 
Andy
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in John and Lawrence. 
 
Seven pump housings and 10 spears later... I'm ready to fix them into place.  The photo is just for position only.  I went with cherry on the spears as think that once they age some and darken up, they'll provide a nice contrast.  I'm still debating on putting the operating ropes on the two aft ones. 
 


 
Now to start figuring out the capstan... 

Daniel,  As always, love your build log and always learning from it. I thought the following photo was interesting.  Making chain plates for the restoration of the Charles W. Morgan (Whaling Ship) at Mystic Seaport, Conn.

First those at the bowsprit, which gave a small problem in the attaching of the chain plates:
I used a method showed in Andersson: small eyebolts in the bowsprit, and rope lashings:
(my first seizings, took me ages to do)

 
 
 
 
 
It was only later that I discovered that the Ketting-models uses long iron chains for these deadeyes.
 
I wont redo them
 
Thane cam ethe tackles and shrouds of the fore mast:
 

 
 
I had some discussion on the so called 'spreeworsten' (translation?) in the shrouds
Ketting shows them in such a way that they are spreading the shrouds. I followed this Ketting setup (which he aslo used in his model of the Prins Willem). However, some fellow modellers made it quite clear to me that this setup could never ever hold the strains that they woudl take in real life. However, too late to redo  

 
After setting up the shrouds the rattling down started. I finished teh foremast, but when clipping the loose ends, I managed to snap one of the futtocks. That forced me to remove the ratlines on the futtocks and do some surgery on the shroud. Still visible in the rightmost futtock, but acceptable when not viewed in 'macro-mode'
 
At the moment: shrouds is still work in progress:
 

 
As is the rattling down: foremast done, main still to be started....
 
Jan

I did not like the capstan as provided by Corel.
So I made a couple of small changes to her: I made the head thicker, and I rearranged the spokes.

 
It still isn't as Dutch as it shoudl be, but the colours make up for that
 

(no flash used, so the colours are a bit 'off white')
 
Jan

Still updating on my build log (in stead of making any progress on the ship herself )
 
When I was this far in the build (september 2008) I came across the buildlog of Chuck of the Mayflower. 
Apart from all very usefull info in this log (which is gone by now, and will not return, I'm affraid) was some info on how to build a little boat.
Chuck used a number of stacked layers, to form the basic hull, smooting and thinning it up, and use that as a base to add exterior planking, and interior framing.
As Dutch ships (as all ships) should have at least a small boat stowed on the deck, I decided to add this little boat as an extra to the kit.
I downloaded the plan Chuck had in his log, and gave it a go. It worked out pretty well, and was very easy to do (much easier than e.g. working from a plug).
The basic structure:

Outside planking: using walnut, 3.5mm wide.
Flush planking on the bottom, clinker on the sides.
 

Inside framing, using 1x1 mm walnut strips, bend using a soldering iron (there was only a thin
line between severe burning of either fingers and wood and giving them the correct curvature )

 
Bottom planks, and the aft seat installed

I had some problems to do the topside of the railing: it should be around 1 mm high and 3 mm wide (to hide the thicknes of the base-shell), and it should be left-right symmetrical. In the end I opted for the laminated version: I made a mold, and attached three layers of the standard 1x3 mm walnut planks provided with the kit. After drying of the glue, I used a sawe to divide this into two symmetrical 1 mm thick and 3 mm wide planks in the correct curvature.

 
After attaching a details (seats for the rowers, keel, sterns and railings), I decided that this was as far as I would go at detailing the little one. I know that there shoudl be metal work, oars, rudder and so on on the boat, but I though it best to keep the level of detailing of the boat in line with that on the kit in general.
 

 
 The lenght of the boat is 7 cm overall, which nicely fits in with the empty space on the main deck where I stowed her.
 

 
Jan

MK4 hooks............................
 

 

 

 

 

 
I then chemically blackened the hooks..........
 

Thank you Dirk, Kats, Mark, Popeye, Paul, Jan and "Bones" :-) :-) :-)
 
I am already wondering, but nobody dares asking about the title of the thread  ;-)
 
... okokok, before I have to wait too long: dafi, what strange thread title you have ?!?
 
Once upon a time, the shout from the channels was to be heard "By the Deep 17" meaning a little more than 17 fathoms of water were measured, roundabout 30 meters.
 
The line used was  ca. 20 to 25 fathoms long (about 36 to 45 meters) and had marks indicating the depth measured. So the shout "By the Mark XX" meant that it was exactely on the mark and "By the Deep XX" meant it to be above the mark. The marks were at  2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 17 und 20 fathoms (after Nares) and had :
2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red und 20 fathoms two knots.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sounding_line
 
 
So hastily made the 20 fathom line, fitted marks and lead ...
 

 
... and the sound of the falling lead could be heard  :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
"By the Deep ..."
 
XXXDAn

Thank you Dirk, Kats, Mark, Popeye, Paul, Jan and "Bones" :-) :-) :-)
 
I am already wondering, but nobody dares asking about the title of the thread  ;-)
 
... okokok, before I have to wait too long: dafi, what strange thread title you have ?!?
 
Once upon a time, the shout from the channels was to be heard "By the Deep 17" meaning a little more than 17 fathoms of water were measured, roundabout 30 meters.
 
The line used was  ca. 20 to 25 fathoms long (about 36 to 45 meters) and had marks indicating the depth measured. So the shout "By the Mark XX" meant that it was exactely on the mark and "By the Deep XX" meant it to be above the mark. The marks were at  2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 17 und 20 fathoms (after Nares) and had :
2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red und 20 fathoms two knots.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sounding_line
 
 
So hastily made the 20 fathom line, fitted marks and lead ...
 

 
... and the sound of the falling lead could be heard  :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
"By the Deep ..."
 
XXXDAn

Thank you Dirk, Kats, Mark, Popeye, Paul, Jan and "Bones" :-) :-) :-)
 
I am already wondering, but nobody dares asking about the title of the thread  ;-)
 
... okokok, before I have to wait too long: dafi, what strange thread title you have ?!?
 
Once upon a time, the shout from the channels was to be heard "By the Deep 17" meaning a little more than 17 fathoms of water were measured, roundabout 30 meters.
 
The line used was  ca. 20 to 25 fathoms long (about 36 to 45 meters) and had marks indicating the depth measured. So the shout "By the Mark XX" meant that it was exactely on the mark and "By the Deep XX" meant it to be above the mark. The marks were at  2, 3, 5, 7, 10, 13, 15, 17 und 20 fathoms (after Nares) and had :
2 fathoms leather with 2 stripes, 3 fathoms leather with 3 stripes, 5 fathoms white, 7 fathoms red, 10 fathoms leather with hole 13 fathoms blue, 15 fathoms white, 17 fathoms red und 20 fathoms two knots.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sounding_line
 
 
So hastily made the 20 fathom line, fitted marks and lead ...
 

 
... and the sound of the falling lead could be heard  :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
"By the Deep ..."
 
XXXDAn

I have actually sounded with a leadline... It's not easy from a moving ship. You have to hurl the lead far enough ahead that by the time it reaches the bottom it will be abeam of you... Not an easy thing to judge...
 
A wonderful little (sort of) project
 
Andy

The purpose of this post is merely to show the progress I'm making with the copper plating.  I must admit that this application is by far the slowest and most tedious so far.  But, according to my wife, I'm doing a decent job.  I'm sure going to regret the holiday we'll be going on in a couple of weeks since I can't take Victory with me.  Oh well, life has been full of ups and downs and after all these years I still can't get used to it.  So here are some pics of my progress:
 
May 24              

And more tempting as the 1803 chain irons are the 1765 ones: same length but two pieces more!

Testing the lengths, carefully remembering that the outer ones are longer.



... homeopathic doses of solder ...



... degreased the wire, first soldering the single rings, then joining them on the central part, the flux with the solder embedded, small touch with the hot iron ...



... and the same game with the dead eye and the triple pack ...



... adjusting over the edge of a blade ...



... and comparison: bottom as cut, then solderd and on top adjusted. Inside length 4 mm :-)



A small jack done for thinning the deadeyes ...



... and painting them with casein paint to give a better to scale wood appearance than the original wood ...



... put on place ...



... made the batten to cover the channels ...



... and painted and rusted.





And here the comparison :-)



Cheers, Daniel

And more tempting as the 1803 chain irons are the 1765 ones: same length but two pieces more!

Testing the lengths, carefully remembering that the outer ones are longer.



... homeopathic doses of solder ...



... degreased the wire, first soldering the single rings, then joining them on the central part, the flux with the solder embedded, small touch with the hot iron ...



... and the same game with the dead eye and the triple pack ...



... adjusting over the edge of a blade ...



... and comparison: bottom as cut, then solderd and on top adjusted. Inside length 4 mm :-)



A small jack done for thinning the deadeyes ...



... and painting them with casein paint to give a better to scale wood appearance than the original wood ...



... put on place ...



... made the batten to cover the channels ...



... and painted and rusted.





And here the comparison :-)



Cheers, Daniel

the chess table cells 1х1м  

continued
 

Dear Robin,
 
thank you for your feedback!!!
 
Thank you, Daniel
 
 
 
PS: As it is more quiet here - I am not in summernation yet, here is the little side project, closely linked to this one :-)
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1487-by-the-deep-17-by-dafi-royal-navy-17801805-display/page-3

Hello Dear Friends,   the main armament of the la creole consisted of 20 30-pounder carronades.
First I made ​​a prototype, gonna learn how to make all the parts I need.
The production of the prototype can be seen in the following images.
I hope that you enjoy it.
Soon I will show you more pictures of the finished Carronade.
 

 

 

Some futtocks had to be convinced to follow the plan…but all went well.
 

 

 

 
After composing all the frames, I placed them on numbered cardboards and let them waiting, since I had to prepare the construction jig.
 

 
Thank you

And more tempting as the 1803 chain irons are the 1765 ones: same length but two pieces more!

Testing the lengths, carefully remembering that the outer ones are longer.



... homeopathic doses of solder ...



... degreased the wire, first soldering the single rings, then joining them on the central part, the flux with the solder embedded, small touch with the hot iron ...



... and the same game with the dead eye and the triple pack ...



... adjusting over the edge of a blade ...



... and comparison: bottom as cut, then solderd and on top adjusted. Inside length 4 mm :-)



A small jack done for thinning the deadeyes ...



... and painting them with casein paint to give a better to scale wood appearance than the original wood ...



... put on place ...



... made the batten to cover the channels ...



... and painted and rusted.





And here the comparison :-)



Cheers, Daniel