dafi

Hi, here are the latest picture of the Banterer. I'm building together with my father. The first three picture show the first "sea trials" last summer:  
The following pictures show the status of teh mechancis in January. The Set up of the main and mizzen mast will change as the combined mechanics proved not being reliable:
 
 
Best regards
   Lami
 

Hi,
With this I would like to continue my Banterer build log.
 
Best regards
    Lami

Some background: I started this build a year and two months ago. I did some modeling when I was a kid, but discovered other joys of life when I reached puberty 🙂 In the meantime I settled down and decided to take it up again (I'm 30 years old).

I decided to go for a challenge and went for the Heller Victory. I wanted to try all the new and exciting tools & techniques I did not have the money for when I was a kid. I started out using acrylics by brush, but invested in a good compressor and airbrush a couple of months ago. Too bad I did not have this at the start of my build! The finish is so much nicer!

The goal is not to make a true to life representation of the actual ship, but a nice looking model in warm colours with lot's of detail that looks good under glass in the living room.

Enough background, here are the pictures:



You can clearly see half of the hull bee lines haven't received the sepia wash yet I use to give it more depth and a warmer tone.





I also need to rework the figurehead a little bit. The white crown is a bit to big and the white horse needs some TLC as well. Otherwise, I'm very happy with the look of the ship!



I used some styrene sheet to make the gun port thicker. I like that look even though it's out of scale.



After a lot of trial and error, I finally settled on a style of gun carriage lashing. I used 2mm single blocks and Morope rigging chords. The most difficult part was making the two holes in the top blocks. I ruined quite a lot of blocks just to get these guns finished 🙂 Will need to order lot's more!

I was not completely happy with my decks. The colour was a bit to pale, it missed some 'life', and some parts were damaged a bit. So, in a moment of temporary insanity, I went out and got a second Heller Victory kit. Maybe a bit drastic, but now I have spare parts for everything and this allows me to experiment a bit more.

I tore out the old deck. This meant I also had to take out the four guns I tackled already, unfortunately. I redid the decks using the same technique, but this time I added two coats of MIG brown filter. This added a nice weathered wood tone. I'm very happy with the result, but judge for yourselves (the foto does not do it justice, though):



The stanchions were made using 2mm eyelets and 0.1mm Morope rigging chord.

I don't have any contemporary sources, but look up the term "brightwork" in the online Merriam-Webster dictionary. Also, from Howard Chapelle's Boatbuilding:
 
"Varnished or oiled decks are called 'bright decks' and are perhaps one of the highest tests of workmanship a builder has to meet."
 
And here's a link to the Google books page on Brightwork: the Art of Finishing Wood by Rebecca Wittman, with a good description of what brightwork is.

Daniel it is interesting to follow your research into the colours and weathering of the woods on the ships and boats.
 
Michael

Your weathering is paying off.  Looks like wood with real wear and tear. 

The term "bright" means the woodwork was varnished rather than painted. No pigment would have been used on brightwork. The term is applied to both varnished woodwork, and polished metalwork on ships and boats.

good day not finding the desired page may be looking for bad decided to create a new Leave to the court several types of stoves all of them will be installed in the Bonhomme Richard 1779 which I quietly building a scale of 1:48 am sorry the process of building't take pictures only ready to view if you have proposals and comments with a great pleasure will be interesting to see who else is doing it, Anatoly
 
добрый день не найдя нужной страницы может искал плохо решил создать новую Предоставляю  на суд несколько видов печек все они будут установлены в Bonhomme Richard 1779 который я потихонечку строю в масштабе 1:48 извиняюсь процесс построения не фотографировал только готовый вид если есть предложения и замечания с удовольствием приму было бы интересно посмотреть кто как делает это Анатолий

 

Hello Jan,
 
just back from a holiday, so the answer a bit late. Thank you for your comment.
 
Both versions base on a 0,4 mm diameter, which is near the real thing. Just the etch has a square form and so always appears a tad thicker if seen from diagonally. The lengths of the middle parts of my etch ones have still to be shortened a bit.
 
I think no etch can beat a self- made version out of round wire on this place, but it is a question of ability and endurance and of course of convenience which version one does prefer for his own build. But it is far better than the original Heller version, which one was - has to admit - innovative and a big step forward in sailing ship model making by the time that the kit was released!
 

 
Liebe Grüße, Daniel

Slowly things are starting to get messy ;-) 
 

 
This state still was too fooked, even though already twice reduced. The casein paint is easily to be gradually removed by wet brush, or if far too much by a wet cloth. Here the collection of paints, large brush, the inlay of a sweets box for mixing ...
 

 
... here taking off the paint with brush, pipe cleaner and Q-Tipp, afterwards more paint in different shades, allow extremely weeeeeeeeeel drying and taking the exceed of if necessary.
 

 
Funnily both samples are coming closer together.
 

 
Made the marks of the scuppers, the black not only being dirt but also the often seen black rot of the surface and gaps if wood is continuously confronted with wet dirt.
 

 
And both trials in comparission.
 

 
And finally the hinges added and integrated with some shades.
 

 
All the best, Daniel

Before I used index cards to make 'things'. I used them to cut strips, paint them black and added them to make various metal brackets.

 
Then I found out that to use the stiffer, smoother paper used in photography printing actually works better. There is no fuzz, no ragged edges, etc.  Now I save a few old prints, not for sentimental reasons, but to use them for metal brackets.
I cut a sliver off, paint the back side and  . . .. 

Slowly things are starting to get messy ;-) 
 

 
This state still was too fooked, even though already twice reduced. The casein paint is easily to be gradually removed by wet brush, or if far too much by a wet cloth. Here the collection of paints, large brush, the inlay of a sweets box for mixing ...
 

 
... here taking off the paint with brush, pipe cleaner and Q-Tipp, afterwards more paint in different shades, allow extremely weeeeeeeeeel drying and taking the exceed of if necessary.
 

 
Funnily both samples are coming closer together.
 

 
Made the marks of the scuppers, the black not only being dirt but also the often seen black rot of the surface and gaps if wood is continuously confronted with wet dirt.
 

 
And both trials in comparission.
 

 
And finally the hinges added and integrated with some shades.
 

 
All the best, Daniel

Thank you for your kind words, Tony
 
 
Well, this is one of the big problems with 3D builds, all depends on the program you´re using. As far as I know I´m the only Blender user (rather surprising as it is completely free) here - and the only one who makes modells intended for games, so I didn´t think that my approach would be worth explaining in detail. But if there are other blender user I´ll happily share my modelling techniques, just feel free to ask
 
 
And now some recent pictures of the modell:
 

 

 

 

 
Regards,
Stephan
 
 

Dafi - good morning
 
can you post a picture of yr build into this thread please, opening page of thread explains why
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1589-latest-full-profile-photograph-of-your-build/

That is when I realized that the used Krick-deadeyes were drilled too unevenly for my taste ... As I did not want to discard my painfully soldered parts and get better deadeyes, I startet closing the holes with toothpicks and filed them even. 
 

 
Just then I realized that because of the size and curved surface the planned drilling templates did not work :-(
At least I know by now why they those bastards are drilled the way that they are ...
 
OK, good old solid handwork, putting each part into the vise and mark the central line for the two middle holes ...
 

 
... and with patience, a template and a good eye drill the preliminary holes with 0,5 mm, set the third hole with a fresh eye ...
 

 
... and finish the drilling with 0,8 mm.
 

 
I usually drill small holes by hand with the drill fixed on a round material as it gives far more control as any machine! .
 
Now came the tricky part of straightening everything up, worked best upon a cutterblade, even the smallest loops :-)
 

 

 
And finally I had a complete set of deadeyes and preventer plates for the main-mast channel on my adhesive tape. :-)
 

 
Hourray
 
 
... and finally came the montage :-)
 
First à la nature ...
 

 
... then with a little bit of colour ...
 

 

 

 
... and it looks like it was all simple! ;-)
 
 
 
Liebe Grüße, Daniel

HMS Lizard was a 24-gun sixth rate launched in 1697. 3D reconstruction based on the photo of original model from Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford.
 
The work is not finished (in progress)

Started one year ago. Make some alteration to come closer to the original. For the planking I use pear instead of walnut.

HMS Victory
1:96 Scratchbuild Project
Part 7 – The Bow Structure
 
The bow structure is one of the most interesting assemblies of woodwork in the ship, and perhaps one of the most challenging to model. In the picture below, taken later in construction, the various parts of the bow structure can be seen.
 
The topmost of the curved horizontal rails is the “main rail”, which provides a bulwark for the fore face of the cathead, but more importantly is a critical triangular brace for the beakhead. The main rail is supported along its length by four Y-shaped “head timbers” which rest on the gammoning knee (barely visible), which acts as a brace between the stem and the beakhead.
 
The head timbers are faced with a decorative beaded facing. The bottom feet of the head timbers also rest on the “upper cheek”, which fays to the lower plank of the middle wale, then curves inward, forward and upward to fay against the aft side of the beakhead right behind the figurehead.
 
The “lower cheek” is of a similar pattern running from the top plank of the main wale up along the beakhead, ending just at the base of the figurehead. Both these timbers act as horizontal knees for the beakhead. Between the cheeks are heavy planking overlays, surrounding both the hawse holes and the gammoning slots.
 
There is also a curved knee supporting the underside of the cathead and then curving forward along the hull to end just behind one of two lighter weight rails which are supported in notches cut into the head timbers.
 
Finally, we have the figurehead and some leafy scrollwork that trails aft between the cheeks.
 

 
In addition to the timber structure and figurehead, there is other interesting detail visible in the above picture, including the forecastle timberheads, the decorative arches along the face of the forecastle bulkhead, the “marines walk” with its two vertical supports curved around the bowsprit, the knightheads, pierced for the lower end of the mainstay collar, and, of course, the huge wormed anchor cables, patiently waiting many years for their anchors.
 
The following picture shows a top view of bow structure.
 

 
This picture, taken much later in the process, shows a different view of some of the details mentioned above. It provides a better picture of the decoration on the forecastle bulkhead and also clearly shows the toilet accommodation for men and the rounded enclosed stalls for the junior officers, all of which derive their name from their location at the “head” of the ship. The top of the marines walk is also interesting with its rectangular openings to take the collars of the mainstay and preventer. As I said above, I found this whole array of detail to be one of the most interesting parts of the ship.
 
Before any modeling of the bow structure could be done, a lot of work was needed to complete the framing of the fore end of the forecastle. My drawings were sadly lacking in details of this and a lot of time was spent looking for better sources of information and translating that into some sketches to base this on. The small, decked area in the above picture is actually at a level above the upper deck in the forecastle and the heavy cat beam across the top of the forecastle bulkhead actually is higher than the forecastle deck. This seemed quite unusual and confusing. The picture below, taken later shows some of this internal structural work.
 

 
Once this work was done and the basic dimensional information established, the first task was to fashion and install the Y-shaped head timbers mounted on the gammoning knee. These were fairly straightforward except that the notches for the light rails and the points of connection with the main rails had to be carefully laid out. Once that was done the making of the main rails had to be faced.
 
In the full version of part 2 9posted on MSB), I described how to loft the true shape of these rails. Now with the correct pattern in hand the rails needed bending to that shape in European Boxwood. First attempts to get this degree of curvature on this large timber failed – several times. I did not want to cut the rails against a weak cross grain because I wanted the full strength, and also did not want to show weak cross grain in the final model. This problem would also have to be faced in forming the two cheeks, which although having a gentler curve had the additional complication of a wide horizontal triangular shape. The picture below shows these three rails on the port side shortly after their installation.
 
 

 
This problem was solved by using laminations of very thin boxwood.
 
First, a six inch piece of 2X4 lumber was cut into two pieces along a line conforming to the curve of the rail with a small blade on a band saw. This would act as the form that would press the wood to the shape the rail. Then boxwood was ripped into very thin strips between 1/32” and 1/64”. In the case of the triangular cheeks these strips were 1½” wide sheets. Then the thin strips were steamed until very pliable. One side of the 2X4 “mold” was clamped in the vise. Strips of wood were then removed from the steaming and immediately given a liberal coating of Titebond glue and layered onto the mold in the vise. The mating part of the mold was then fitted on top and with large clamps the two parts of the mold were pulled together forcing the strips into the shape of the rail. After drying for 2 days, they were released. Below is a picture of a leftover lamination for an upper cheek showing how the cheek was then cut from it. With laminates there is virtually no spring back, so the mold shape will be retained exactly.
 

 
For some reason this piece was not used, but the lamination is very good, with little evidence of it being a laminate. Once these pieces were scored down with a beaded molding cutter, joints would really be imperceptible. This picture also illustrates the amount of expensive boxwood waste suffered in this process. This cheek, because of its triangular knee shape, required a wide laminate. Below is a picture of a failed delaminated main rail attempt, the result of not enough glue.
 

 
Once these curved rails were conquered, the work on the bow became easier and I will only describe it briefly since it was pretty straightforward modeling work.
 
The figurehead was carved out of a solid block of boxwood, using a rotary tool with small burrs for roughing out, supplemented with some small gouges and chisels to finish the shape. A picture of the finished carving is shown below. The stance of the two figures took some time and a few failures to work out. Final polishing was done with fine steel wool. If I were to do this again, I would make a mockup first using something like epoxy putty to help fully understand the shapes before diving into the boxwood.
 

 
The picture below shows the gratings over the bow timbers and in the marines walk. I will describe how these gratings, and many more to follow, were made, I will also discuss the issue of correctly locating the openings in the Marines walk grating for the main stay collars. This picture also shows the areas of straight beam grating, which for some reason was used in part of the surface. This picture also shows the safety netting and some hammock netting, which I will discuss in a later chapter.
 

 
Gratings were made using the setup shown in the picture below. First, an auxiliary saw table was made from a sheet of 1/8” clear Plexiglas to fit over the Unimat saw table. Then a groove was dadoed into the top surface with a .030” saw blade. A strip of boxwood of the same thickness was force fit into this groove, then trimmed down so that the top of the strip was 1/64th” above the top of the Plexiglas. A slot to take the .030” Unimat blade was cut through the Plexiglas and the table was clamped to the saw table in such a way that the blade projected just 1/64” above the Plexiglas. The table was then adjusted horizontally to give a spacing of exactly .030” between the blade and the strip of wood.
 

 
A 1” wide blank of 1/32” boxwood was then dadoed with 1/64” deep cuts across its width. First the blank was held against the strip of wood to make the first cut. Then, succeeding cuts were made by placing the previous cut over the strip and making another cut. This was repeated across the length of the strip. A small sample with a few cuts is pictured above. Then, 1/32’ strips were ripped from this piece. To avoid tear out a very high speed and very slow feed should be used with a sharp fine toothed blade. The strips were then interlocked together to form grating.
 
On the real ship grating was not interlocked but merely had cross pieces set in grooves in the support members. Interlocking simplified accurate spacing and also allowed me to avoid using glue. The unglued grating looks crisp and clean and none has ever come apart. A setup like this could be done on any small circular saw, or the grooves could be cut on a milling machine, a process I used later for the flag lockers. I used an angle cut with different spacing to make ladder sides and a similar setup to cut notches in window mullions.
 
The last point I will address in this part was the location of the three rectangular holes in the grating of the marines walk. These openings take the collars of the main stay and the main preventer stay. They must be located very accurately so that when tension is put on these stays no stress is placed on the grating, which would then break under the strain from these very large lines. These openings can be seen in the earlier pictures. The grating in this area is in the shape of a trapezoid and is 3” thick.
 
To locate these holes a dummy mainmast was setup and temporary stays run from the correct height do to their connections under the bow. Using 1/32” stock, a pattern was developed showing spaces needed for the stay collars. These hole locations were set out on an enlarged piece of grating to assure that the openings would clear the stays and also that openings would be bounded by grating bars on all sides. The grating shape was then cut and fit into the opening. The goal here was to avoid having to cut the grating in a haphazard way later. The last picture shows how this worked out on the final model. The stay collars, with their hearts and lashings, actually bend down over the forecastle fife rail. This could not have been foreseen without a mockup.
 

In the next part I will begin to discuss planking and detailing of the upper decks. I have not tried to cover everything in this log but only items I felt would be interesting to a range of modelers. Most of all I would like to reach those less experienced in scratch building, who may well be facing the same dilemmas I faced with Victory. To some, more experienced builders, there may be few revelations here, but if I have glossed over something too lightly, where there may be interest in a better explanation, please let me know and I will try to address it in a future chapter or separately.
 
Cheers,
 
Ed Tosti

HMS Victory
1:96 Scratchbuild Project
Part 6 – The Topside Planking
Posted to MSW 8/18/10
 
In Part 5, we started working up to the task of topside planking by discussing the objectives I had for the final appearance. I like to set these objectives up front for each major stage to use as a quality yardstick when deciding how far to go with each aspect of the work or when to scrap some unsatisfactory work. In this Part, I will cover some aspects of the planking that may be of interest. I will also discuss how the rail moldings and the “rigols” over the gun ports were made.
 
Planking from the lower wale up to the waist rail.
 
The Lower Wale, or Main Wale
 
The main wale is a band of thick structurally important planking that runs from just above the waterline at midships up to the bottom sill of most of the ports of the lower gun deck. Because the line of the lower wale, and almost all of the topside planking for that matter, parallels the sheer line, and because that line has more curvature than the line of the decks, several of the after gun ports on the lower deck actually cut into the lower wale, the aftermost one being almost entirely within the wale. So, before doing any planking of the lower wale, the gun port framing had to be dealt with.
 
Because the gun port sides, tops and bottoms were formed by the ships structure, a collection of Lauan frames and pine filler pieces, the ports needed to be re framed to improve their appearance. This was done by enlarging the port openings and framing their insides with strips of 1/32” cherry. This also provided an opportunity to check the final location of the ports and make any necessary adjustments. Once all the lower deck ports were lined, the planking could begin.
 
Because the lower wale was expected to contribute longitudinal stiffness to the hull structure, its lower four strakes had planks in the shape of anchor stocks, that is, of increasing width from the ends to a point in the center of the plank. The lowest row had the peaks on the top and the second on the bottom and then a repeat for the next two strakes. This provided an interlocking structure which would help resist bending stresses on the hull, specifically “hogging,” the tendency for the ends of the ship to bend downwards as a wave lifted the center of the ship. The picture below describes this along with the slightly different configuration for the middle wale, known as “top and butt”. The picture above shows how this looked on the model.
 

 
These special shaped planks had to be made accurately or they would not fit together seamlessly, which was quite important to the final appearance. Special devices were made to cut these and the slightly different shapes for the middle wale, in which the highpoint is off center. The tools shown below were used to cut these planks all to the same size.
 

 
These two slightly different cutting guides, were made by filing steel plates to the correct profile of the pyramidal edge of the planks, making sure their top edges were smooth and accurate. Then they were fitted into wood forms, which set their height correctly and also the length of the plank. Spacing was set to just over the plank thickness for easy removal. The guide at the top right was for main wale planks and the one at the lower left for the middle wale top and butt planks. For use these were secured in a vise. Planks of the final thickness were cut to the correct length and just over correct width, allowing the guides to set the final width. These blanks were each placed between the steel rails and pared down with a sharp chisel flush with the top of the guides. This produced uniform planks with sharp square edges, which fit together well when installed.
 
Planking Procedure
 
All the planking was cut from 8/4 (2”) by roughly 6” wide stock. European Boxwood of this size was hard to come by even in the 1970’s, but I was fortunate to be able to acquire two pieces in this size about 3 ft long. Cherry was not a problem, but it needed to be selected for straight grain from pieces I had. The wide stock was then cut to about 12” lengths, ripped down to the plank width, using a very thin kerf 10” circular saw blade, and then if necessary, cleaned up with a cabinet scraper to assure a very smooth edge on the planks. Planks were then ripped to thickness on the Unimat circular saw, using a relieved fine tooth metal working blade that produced a glasslike finish on the surface of the planks. As I mentioned in Part 5, wales were done in cherry and the rest in European Boxwood.
 
Anchor stock and top and butt were worked in paired rows to make sure pieces fit each other as the rows progressed. To assure tight joints the back corners of each plank was very slightly chamfered with a file to assure that the front faces would touch. Titebond glue was applied to the back and bottom edges – also to the appropriate end if the plank was butting another installed plank. Since the framing and filler on which the planks bedded was solid, clamping was done using short pieces of soft pine about 1/8” thick through which stiff pins were hammered into the frame. Friction between the pin and the pine held the plank down and in until the glue had a chance to set. Below is a diagram illustrating this clamping technique.
 

 
Excess glue was then brushed off using a wet artists brush kept nearby in a jar of water. This eliminated the need for later sanding or scraping to get the glue off. After 30 years, none of these glue joints has failed and all the planking is still tight. Finally, holes were drilled to receive the treenails. This was done later, when enough planking was complete to draw in pencil the lines of the nails. Holes were then pricked with a center punch to assure that lines of nails would be straight. A drill size just below the diameter of the treenail was used to assure a tight nailed fit. The sharp end of the nail was dipped in the glue, held in the hole using tweezers or small pliers, and tapped in with a small hammer. Excess glue was brushed off and when dry, the surface of the plank was leveled off with a small file. Using a file here assures that the nail head will be flush. Sanding may leave a bump with the hard end grain of the nail. It also tends to ruin nearby sharp edges.
 
Toward the ends of the hull, planks needed to be curved to fit. This was done by cutting the plank to size, steaming it in an old teapot until pliable, then fitting and clamping it in place – without glue. As the plank dries, it will shrink, and if glued, will leave gaps. When the plank was completely dried it was glued in place. Boiling water sometimes discolored the surface of the planks, but I found this could be removed with the file. There are other good ways to bend wood, but this was the method I used.
 
The areas between and above the wales was done in straight boxwood planks using the same procedure as above. This planking was thinner than the wales, so care had to be taken to avoid sanding or filing off the raised edges of the wales. These were given a very slight rounding during the final polishing of the hull exterior.
 
As each strake of planking was completed, a dimensional check was made, by measuring up to the sheer line to make sure the height was correct along the hull. Discrepancies when found were very small and could be corrected easily with a file or small scraper. Doing this at each strake avoided a potentially nasty surprise when the planking ultimately reached the sheer line. Finally, before beginning the next strake, a triangular file or scraper was used to remove any fillet of glue left between the top of the planks and the frame to assure next strake would seat neatly.
 
Where planks ended at a gun port, they were left slightly long, then filed flush with the frame later. Where a gun port sill or lintel cut into the edge of a plank this was also filed out later. This assured a nice sharp corner to the port openings.
 
 
Rails
 
The picture below shows the three rails the run the length of the hull above the upper wale. The lowest is the waist rail, which in this picture is cut by the line of the upper deck 12 pounders. Above that is the sheer rail, which is in line with the fore, main and mizzen channels, and above that is the planksheer rail, which runs under the planksheer at the waist. There are additional “drift” rails aft and forward.
 

 
These rails add interest and accentuate the lines of the hull. The upper two have a similar profile. The waist rail is different. These rails were shaped in Boxwood, using a profile scraper which was drawn along the edge of a strip of wood with thickness equal to the width of the wale, but much wider so it could be secured in a vice while being shaped. After shaping the rail was sliced off on the circular saw. These rails were bedded on the framing, not on top of planking, so they replaced a row of planks. Actual practice may have differed, but this seemed a logical approach on the model. A picture of the profile scraper used for some of these different shapes is shown below.
 

 
These profile cutters are easy to make and do a nice job making moldings. The above cutter was used for the sheer rail, the steps up the side and the cap rails on the channels. The cutter is made by marking out the shape on the metal with a sharp scriber, then sawing out the rough shape with a jewelers saw. The shape can be dressed with small files, but very small parts of the shape were done with the saw alone. Very fine blades are available for these saws. Small files made for sharpening Japanese style saws have very sharp sides and work well. I made my cutters from some 1/16” stainless steel plate I had. Cutters like this were also used for things like the fenders shown in the picture below and for making rigging blocks, which I will discuss later.
 

 
]The picture, above, shows some of the other detail that was added after completion of the topside planking – the molded steps up the side, the elaborate middle deck entrance way, the two vertical fenders to protect the hull when loading barrels, the “wriggles” over ports to divert water and the sheave set into side which would later take the mainsail sheet into the waist. The scrolls at the ends of the drift rails were made by turning grooves on the end of a boxwood dowel. This was a compromise I have regretted. They needed to be carved as a scroll with decreasing radius to the center, but I gave up on this too quickly and took the easy way out. I have never been happy with this decision.
 
Port Rigols
 
The rigols over the ports presented an interesting problem. There are two types. On the lower deck ports they are straight across the top and on the middle deck they curve up into a point at the middle. The undersides are concave curves. The challenge was to make them proportionately correct and to have them uniform.
 
Both were made starting with a strip of boxwood the thickness of the horizontal thickness of the rigols and maybe 3/8” wide. The inside concave shape was cut along the face of the boxwood strip near its edge with a small ball end mill to make a rounded slot of the correct length and depth for the interior curve. The depth of this milling cut left about 1/64” of wood at the bottom. Several slots were cut along this line on the strip. The circular saw was then used to slice off enough so that only the top half of the slots remained on the edge of the strip. Then the inside lower 1/64” edge was trimmed back to its profile with a knife. Then the strip of “wriggles” was sliced off above the slot leaving a strip with quarter concave slots on one edge. The rigols were cut off to length and the outside curve at the ends shaped with a chisel.
 
The middle port wriggles were done the same way, except before slicing off the strip the upward interior concave pointy shape was cut with a small gouge. The strip was parted off, the pieces were cut to length and the top curvature carved manually. The picture below, of some leftover work-in-progress pieces I found, should help clarify this explanation. In this picture, initial milling of the some middle deck rigols has been done and the bottom half of the slot sliced off. The next step would be to shape the interior curves with a small gouge, then trim the lower edge inside the curve to match that shape. Next, the strip would be sliced off and the pieces cut to length. Then the top edge would be shaped to match the curvature of the inside.
 

 
In Part 7, I will address what I felt was some of the most difficult woodworking in the ship, the complex curved rails and supports at the head and also the detailing of the head back to the forecastle bulkhead, which was easier.
 
 
Cheers,
 
Ed Tosti

The most difficuklt task for me: waaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiitiiiiing until the paint gets dry enough ...
 
more trials with the casein paint ...
 

 

 
...  and oil paint diluted with original Zippo lighter fuel.
 

 
And it looks much different now.
 
Also see some small thoughts about "As times go by" ...
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1593-as-time-goes-by-how-do-ships-age/#entry33202
 
XXXDAn

DRAWINGS
 
In my search for drawings I learned that none were available for the O 19.  First I contacted Wilton Fijenoord, the builder of the O 19 and O 20, via e-mail who told me that all their build drawings went to the Royal Navy Archives in Den Helder, the KM Navy base.  I tried several times to get in touch with them and the Museum but received no answers.  I mentioned my dilemma in my VOC build log and Remco contacted me via PM with a URL that had model builder drawings for the O 21 and also for the cruiser HR. Ms. Java, the ship my father was killed on.  Great, so I went to the URL and I tried to place my order for these drawings but their invoicing did not accept my order.  Hmmm, perhaps they don’t like Dollars, I thought and I can’t blame them. 
Now what.  I wrote my wife’s brother in law who lives in The Hague and asked him if he could buy these drawings for me and I would reimburse him for the costs.  He informed me that these drawings were no longer available because they were in the process of digitizing them and would take a few years.
I mentioned this to Remco and he offered to try from his end to purchase the O 21 drawings for me on a PayPal transaction.  Well, he hit pay dirt and snail mailed the drawings to me.  I figured that the O 21 may have been build along the same lines as the O 19 with the exception of the external mine compartments.  I could kinds, sorta, figure out the shape of the hull by looking at photographs and use the dimensions of the mines to get the approximate shape.  Well, later on I learned that there were more differences that would make my attempt not really look exactly like the O 19.  For one, the O 21 is a little shorter.
I didn’t know that yet so I continued my research in what mines the O 19 could carry, what the dimensions are and how many and where exactly on the hull.
 
In the meantime Remco did a lot of research himself and found that the original plans were archived in the KM Archive in The Hague.   One could order any amount of drawings and they would print them out for € 10 each!  Ouch!  But - - - they could not do that for the foreseeable future because they were in the process of digitizing the microfilm records.  Remco didn’t give up and “sweet talked” them into allowing him to come to the archive and make his own copies.  I have a sneaking hunch that by mentioning my father may have softened their hearts.
So, Remco went to the archive and was able to find the drawer of the microfilm for the O 19 and copied the most essential drawings for me, three versions of the body plan, the sheer, waterlines and half breadth plan, deck plans, interior layout, and mine compartment structure.
 
In addition to finding the drawings for me he also found a URL that had many actual photographs of the construction of the O 19!  I could download many and these too will be a great help in visualizing the shape in many areas, specially the bow and stern. 
Hurray!  With these drawings and the O 21 drawings and photographs I could now build a model with a high level of confidence that it would look as my father saw it and sailed on it.
 
I only had to change the scale of the drawings and redrew them to my 1:50 scale.  Well, actually the final version of the body plan, archive number 2960, I could manipulate on my HP printer to the size I needed.  All the others I had loft by hand on the floor in my studio.  She’ll be a big model and the Admiral asked me “where are you going to put it?”  “I’ll find a place my sweets,” I responded.  End of conversation, she knows how close this is to my heart.  We both have seafaring fathers and Navy men.
“Oh, buy the way”, she asked, “when are you going to make a model of my dad’s ship”?  “Which one, the one he made captain on in 1953 (M. S. Musi) or the one he was on when the JIN took it in March of 1942 (SS Duijmaer van Twist 3)?”  I asked.  He was at that time of the war a Lieutenant Commander in the Navy Reserve with the MLD (Navy Air Arm) and was ordered to report at the MLD base Kamayoran but subsequently ordered to report to Cilicap  (formally spelled Tjilitjap), the southern Navy base.  Kamayoran no longer exist and that section is now called Kecamatan Krembangan, in case any one wants to look it up on Coogle Earth.  He was to join 300 or so military personnel as well as civilians and take them to Australia on the KPM ship “SS Duijmaer van Twist.”   On the way south the JIN took this ship on 3 March of 1942.  All personnel on board were taken off and made POW’s.  The crew remained on board to work the ship for the Japanese who renamed her Dai Maru.  She was sunk by a US bomber attack on 14 May, 1945 . 
 
“One of these days dear.” ;-)
 
All the drawings are now made and I drew up the necessary bulkheads, keel and center vertical keel frame.  It’s now just a matter of transferring it to wood, but first I have to build the build dock.  This will be a piece of ¾ inch plywood 65 inches long by 12 inches wide, which should give me enough space for jigging and measuring equipment.  It also needs to be primed and painted.
I’ll glue the keel and bulkhead layout drawing on top of this nicely white painted board.  I checked the workbench again for level and confirmed that it was still level both ways. 
 
(pics of the drawings with explanatory text)
 
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS FOR SUBMARINES O 19 AND O 20
 
Boat                            O 19                                                                                        O 20
Pennant #                   P 19, N 54           
Type                           Submarine minelayer for operations in home waters
                                   as well as in the colonies.
Class name                O 19. Named after first of class.
                                  "O" stands for "Onderzeeboot" (submarine)
Laid down                  15 June 1936                                                                             15 June 1936
Launched                   22 Sep 1938                                                                               31 Jan 1939
Commissioned           3 July 1939                                                                                  28 Aug 1939
Refit                           Feb 1943 - Feb 1944                                                                                                                                                            -
Fate                          10 July 1945 scuttled                                                            19 Dec 1941 sunk/scuttled
Other names             K XIX                                                                                                K XX (hit by mine)
Design                       Dutch design by ir. G. de Rooy. Possibly (but not confirmed) based upon the Orzel   class which was designed for the Polish Navy.
Shipyard                    Wilton-Fijenoord, Rotterdam
Le x Be x Dr               80.70 m x 7.41 m x 3.87 m
                                    *Le: W-line 80.700 m
                                    *Le: Max. 80.870 m                                                              80.70 m x 7.41 m x 3.87 m
                                    *Be: Max. 7.411 m
                                    *Dr: Trimmed: Fw. = 3.620 m, Mid. = 3.870 m, Aft = 4.120
                                    *Keel to: Scope wavebraker = 10.75 m, to RDF mast = 15.3 m           
Displacement
Stnd/Surf/Subm            ex K XIX / K XX : 1015 t / 1145 t / 1561 t
                                    O 19: 982 t / 1109 t / / 1491 t
Displacement                        *Norm: 1116.464 m3 (1145.492 t )
                                    *Subm: / 1561.083 t
                                    *Stnd:  / 998.542 t (1016 Kg)
                                    *CM:  / 3850 m3  (3950 t)           
Volume                        *Net: 1302.598 M3 (460.282 t)
                                    *Gross:  308.550 M3 (109.028 t)           
Engines                        Two 7-cylinder Sulzer diesel engines, 2-stroke, 2 x 2650 apk (shaft horse power)
Motor                           Two 500 apk motors
Batteries                        2 x 96 cells. 5300 Ah during 5 hours. 6000 Ah total
                                    *Power grid: 175 - 260 V
                                    *Light grid: 175 V           
Snort                            'First' class in the world equipped with a snort system, see notes
Shafts                           2
Speed surf/subm         19.5 kts / 9 kts
Range surf/subm        10000 nm at 12 kts / 27 nm at 8.5 kts
Depths                        *Diving: 100 m
                                    *Periscope (flush):  15.5 m (15.2 m)
                                    *Launch: 25 m            Diving: 100 m
Water                           *Drinking: 8567 ltr.
                                    *Washing: 12350 ltr (6825 m3 in AHB tank)
                                    *Distilled: 1400 ltr. not for battery and 1490 ltr. for battery           
Complement                40
Torpedo tubes            4 x 21" bow, 4 x 21" stern
Torpedo Type            O 19: Mk 8, V53, Mk IV*SD                                                            O 20: IV53, V53
Mine tubes                 2 x 10 external shafts amidships on each side.
                                  Using the French Normand-Fenaux system. Each shaft contains two mines (above on                                     another).
Mine type                   Vickers (199 stocked in the N.E.I. in Feb. 1942).
                                  On 13 Apr 1945 she laid a line of Vickers T III T mines.           
Armament                  14 torpedoes, incl. 6 reloads, and 40 mines
Guns                          1 x 8.8 cm / 45 AA. (*#3, Mar*#7) with *125 shells
                                    2 x 40 mm Bofors in single 'disappearing' mounts, in watertight wells forward  and                                                 aft of the conning tower.
                                    1 x 12.7 mm AA.
                                    *Oerlikon 20 mm II
                                    #S9195 OLK 126 IFF 47041
                                     #S17707  OLK #16 5W 28620, OLK 8643 .116.'6  72455
                                    *Forward watertight well and machine-gun possibly removed during the 1943-1944                                     refit.           
 
Small arms                  *Vickers 7.9 mm, 0.303"
                                           GO #1, 1 type A, #3365, $33529, #34692
                                    *Sub machine gun
                                         Thompson  aka Tommygun 45 c 8.8 mm, 296305, 105333, 14491 mod u.o. 1941
                                    *Automatic rifles
                                          B3896, B5329,  B5470
                                    *Pistols
                                          #1 Automatic 2B66, 3B67, 2B68, 2b69, 2B89
                                          #3 Automatic
                                          Colt Automatic
                                          Weble & Scott Ltd #2 Mk1 7041 and #1 Mk1 28620
                                          Semi Gogswell & Harrison Ltd. 72455
Sonar                               Equipped with a geruispeiler (listening device) from Atlas Werke (Bremen). In those                                     days 'Atlas' was the best on the market.
ASDIC                           *120B           
RDF                              *Type 291
                                    * SPEZ.1000N II (2)
                                       # V/38033. TEL. E305N NO 67006 - 36
                                       Fr: 1666 kc (180 m) - 75 kc (4000 m)
                                       33.3 kc (9000 m) - 15 kc (22000 m)           
IFF                                  *Possibly type 251W           
Echo sounder                *Hughes & Son, ADM Pattern, universal type           
Log                                *SALSEL SYNLOG #4364           
Radio                                    *Transmitter: NSF svc 800 L /20, #4353/2
                                                  Fr: 15000 kc (20m) - 2500 (120m)
                                                  Pw:  800 W A13, 240 W A2 and A3
                                                  Seinw: A1, A2, A3
                                                  Supply: 175, 260, 3000
                                    *Transmitter: NSF svc 200 L /30, #4353/1
                                                  Fr: 750 kc (400) - 250 (1200)
                                                 Pw:  200 W A13, 60 W A2 and A3
                                    *Receiver: NSF MO 11/12 L/354
                                                  Fr: 14.27m = 20700 kc, 66.7 kc = 4497 m
                                                  Fr: 9000 m = 33 kc, 15 kc = 22000 m
                                                  Supply: AC 220 V ~ (kva), DC
                                    *Receiver: Nat. comp. USA, HRO (standard) #94B
                                                  Fr: 10 m (30000 kc), 177 m (1708 kc)
                                    *Receiver: AR88
                                                  Fr: 32 - 0.535 mH
                                                  Supply:  AC 100 - 260 v ~, DC
                                    *Receiver: 13.29
                                                  Fr:  15 - 550 kc
                                                  Supply: AC 220 v ~, DC
                                    *Receiver Amusement: 296A, Philips #3824           
 
Notes            - Often regarded as the first submarine class in the world equipped with the "getrimd diesel                            systeem" or "snort system". Also check the O 2, K II and O 16 class details for info on
               even earlier Dutch snort systems.
            - First Dutch class for use in home waters as well as in the colonies.
             After this class the distinction between 'O' boats (for home waters) and 'K' boat (for the
              colonies) was not used anymore.
            - ?Partially double hull?
* = Source for this data is a WWII (possibly post 1943) personal notebook from an O 19 officer.
 

Hr. Ms. O21 model builder plans for O 21
 

Model of Hr. Ms. O21
 

Navy Project O 17 to build a mine lying submarine, 1934.
 

Final version design by ir. G. de Rooy in 1935.  If you squint real hard you can see the dashed lines of the original Navy plan.
 

Sheer, half breadth and deck plan for K XIX and K XX
 

My resized body plan to scale 1:50
 

My lofted keel layout to the scale of 1:50
 

Build board keel and bulkhead layout to be glued to the build board.
 
Cheers

INTRODUCTION
 
 
This is the build log for Hr. Ms. O 19, one of only two submarines in her class of the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Navy).  Please forgive me for making this introduction very personal because she was part of my life and therefore holds a very special interest for me.  My father, Opperschipper (Adjudant) Petrus W. van Warmerdam, was with her from about one year before her launch September 22, 1938 till his promotion to Opperschipper in January 1941.   
At the time he was placed on the build he had the rank of Schipper, with the added function of Quality Control and Assurance Inspector and liaison between the Navy and the ship builder Wilton-Fijenoord in Rotterdam, the Netherlands. 
 
His second tour of tropical duty started right after his marriage to my mother in October 7, 1931, and they started a family while in Surabaya, the former Dutch East Indies.  My sister and I were born there, November 14, 1932 and April 15, 1934.  When his second six-year tour of tropical duty ended in the end of 1937 he had to return to the Netherlands.  Of course his family, my mother, sister and I, followed shortly after on the passenger liner M. S. Christiaan Huygens of the Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland, Amsterdam. 
 
When we arrived in the Netherlands we first stayed in Den Helder, the Royal Navy Base, but after hearing about the new class of submarines being build he immediately requested to be placed on them.  Because of his expert technical knowledge of submarines the Royal Navy agreed and he and his family moved to Vlaardingen Ambacht, Narcisplein 3 to be exact, a small town near Schiedam, in March of 1938.  Sjors and Anja know this area quite well.
 
The shipyard was located in Schiedam, the Netherlands and the boat he was assigned to happened to be the furthest along of the two in that class, mine laying submarines. 
 
The original design concept for a mine lying submarine was completed in December, 1934 and assigned numbers O 17 and O 18. (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)   However, the design was altered to a more squarish form amidships for better loading and discharging of the mines by engineer G. de Rooy.  (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)  Rumors have it that it is based on the design of the Polish submarine Orzel but cannot be confirmed.  The Orzel was also a mine-laying sub but I believe that the mine tubes were carried inside the main hull and not on the side as the O 19 class subs.  
 
The O 19 and O 20 were also the first subs equipped with “getrimd diesel system ,” where the boat could run on diesel power while submerged to charge the batteries and for ventilation.   This is commonly known as “Snorts,” or “Snorkels.”    Navigation was done via the navigation periscope.
 
The KM (short for Royal Navy in Dutch) used to classify submarines for domestic waters with O and those for the colonies with K (K stands for “Koloniën ” which means colonies).  They were originally assigned the numbers K XIX and K XX, which was changed to O 19 and O 20 sometime during their fabrication.  All subsequence submarines received the O designation till the end of WW II.  After the war all subs received names instead of numbers.
 
The O 19 was launched September 22, 1938 with my father onboard of course   and officially commissioned on July 3, 1939, my mother, sister and I were present for that event.  I was standing on extreme left of the photo, hidden behind the bow flag, next to my mother.  The ensuing trial runs were successfully conducted near de Scandinavian coast and the fiords where proof diving could be done more successfully.  Although the boat was designed for a maximum depth of 100 meters these proof dives were limited to 60 meters.
 
Special tests were to be conducted on the voyage to the Netherland’s East Indies to measure geological differences in the Earth’s crust when sailing over the continuation of a mountain range underwater as well as wave action while submerged.  She and her crew arrived safely and without any technical difficulties at the Navy Base in Soerabaja (old Dutch spelling) in September 1939.
 
My mother, sister and I followed in December of 1939 on the passenger liner M. S. “Johan van Oldenbarnevelt,” of the Stoomvaart Maatschappy Nederland.   Both the Christiaan Huygens and JVO served as troop transports during WW II.
 
On January 1, 1941, my father was promoted to Opperschipper (Adjudant) and had to be transferred to a surface ship of the KM, which was the light cruiser Hr. Ms. Java.   The reason for the transfer was dat that rank was not maintained on submarines.  That was the second time in my short life that I saw my father shed a tear.  He loved the submarine service that particular boat and the crew.   As all submariners know these small crews on the subs become like a family.  He hated the Java, that “old rust bucket,” as he called it and he was subsequently killed in action on that ship during the “Battle of the Java Sea,” 5 minutes before midnight on February 27, 1942.  A long-range Japanese torpedo hit the Java in the rear port side just where his battle station is.  Fortunately he never knew what hit him when the powder room exploded and 20 meters of that part of the ship just evaporated.
I have photographs of the wrecked stern section that lies 70 meters down on the sea floor and now have closure and sort of a “grave marker.”
 
Our lives changed dramatically shortly afterward when the Japanese successfully invaded the Dutch controlled Indonesian islands and made us “guests of the Emperor” of Japan, i.e. prisoners of war, and placed us into concentration camps for the duration of the war.  Yes, even women, and children, all non military people were classified as combatants and came under military rule and in charge of the Kempeitai.
 
Fellow ship model builders, something you may not know but the Japanese High Command gave orders in the beginning of 1945 to exterminate all POWs in September of 1945.  As terrible as the two atom bombs that destroyed Hiroshima and Nagasaki are, it saved millions of lives and is the reason I am alive today with two beautiful daughters and a grandson.  My wife too was a “guest of the Emperor” in a concentration camp in Semarang, Java.  It is also giving me the great pleasure counting all of you as my friends.
 
The O 19 served with distinction during the entire war and I am sure that my father would be proud of her and the crew.
 
Well then, this model is in memory of my father and I dedicate it to him and the crew he loved.  The boat is still with us today, albeit as a wreck on Ladd Reef in the South China Sea (19.93 Lat, 174.57 Long).  Due to a navigational error she ran right smack in the middle of that reef at low tide.  And yes, the crew survived and was rescued by the USS sub “ Cod,” which is moored permanently in Cleveland, Ohio, as a museum.   There are some interesting films on “YouTube” of the rescue 
 
My model will be at a scale of 1:50 which translates to 1.6 meter and only shows the exterior of the boat, except for the side-launch torpedo tube assembly.  This unit is mounted outside the main pressure hull, between the hull and the deck structure forward of the deck gun location. 
It will be plank on bulkhead, using poplar wood for the majority of the build.  For the deck structure I may use 1/32 inch plywood over a frame of poplar, covered with epoxy resin.  The simulated hull plating will be 150 lb hot pressed watercolor paper over 1.5 mm poplar planking and epoxy resin.   Other materials will be brass rod, brass and copper wire, plastics, cardboard material and whatever comes to mind to achieve the desired effect.
I’ll be using red Titebond glue, Elmer’s Carpenter’s WoodGlue Max, which is an interior/exterior glue and waterproof.  Of course CA will also be used when appropriate.
 
I am still doing research on the original paint scheme at the time of the commissioning but that point is still in the future.
 
The drawing section is to follow.
 
Cheers, 

Another fine offering from  Daniel’s bumper book of everything you wanted to know about matters nautical but were afraid to ask
 
I can hear the scratching of heads from here.
 
The definition ‘bright’ meant payed with Rosin, the main ingredients being Rosin  and turpentine.
 
The colour of bright sides would presumably vary dependant on the rosin used but light to mid brown would be my best guess.
 
Paintings around the time of the Seven Years War may provide a good clue. Most contemporary model of the 18th century are shown bright, but the finish may not be representative of the real thing.
 
Have a look at the works of marine painters such Charles Brooking and John Cleveley
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/a-naval-snow-173093
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/ships-in-a-light-breeze-173091
 
http://www.lanefineart.com/component/virtuemart/shop.product_details/12/flypage_images.tpl/70.html
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/a-naval-brigantine-in-a-calm-sea-173289
 
http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/a-sixth-rate-on-the-stocks-173292
 
This is probably as close as you will get.
 
As far as weathering is concerned, how will we ever know.  A ship model kept indoors may well darken with age whereas open to the elements fading is more likely, much in the same way old varnish appears today.
 
Carr – laughton makes mention of a ship having a dull appearance, like a bright sided ship discoloured by use. - Reminds me of my Garden bench.
 
 The practise of painting ships sides long pre-dated the Nelson fashion of the late 18th/early 19th centuries.
 
Carr- Laughton cites  an Admiralty order dated 12 July 1715  that the outsides of ships be painted  of the ‘usual’ yellow colour, which suggests that the practice was in force for some considerable time prior to this. Other contemporary references throughout the 18th Century indicated that painting was a normal practice.
 
However, this does not fully explain the case as in 1777 an order was issued explaining how the sides of ships were to be ‘payed’ and another in May 1780 saying that when ships sides were painted, the material  usually allowed for paying them should not be issued.
 
The inference to be gained from this is that the two methods co-existed, perhaps changing in precedence from time to time.
 
Is your question related to one of your multiple Victory builds Daniel?
 
Cheers,
 
M.
 
 
 

if you believe, you could escape of that one so easily, you could be wrong.
Do not forget, model making is a serious business ;-)
 
As said before, some color tests were to be done on a casein base ...
 

 
... looking spectacular, but far too fooked up :-)
 
The good thing on the casein paint is, take a wet cloth and just wipe and redo .-)
 
Cheers, Daniel

Thank you Druxey, I am shure it will proove interesting and fun to myself. 
 
But where does this lead? To the usual twists and confusions in dafis world of modelism :-)
 
After the first coat of primer I left the can on the balcony, stupid idea, as the color got to cold ...
 

 
... which I was mad aware by an apart giraffe pattern on the model :-(
 
So back to zero and take down the paint with the help of a scaler. 
 

 
... reworked the splitlines ...
 

 
... and saw (PUN!) the results of this unexpected action. The scratching down the color left some rattling marks.
 
One needs to be able to see and realise, but these rattle marks look very much like the marks of handsawn wood, also seen on older ships.
 
I was already looking for a long time how to differenciate a painted steel hull from a painted wooden hull. I think with the slightly uneven levels of the different planks, the different dimensions of the gaps in between the planks and the rattle marks, I am coming quite close to the look I am looking for :-)
 
 
And now we come to the typical dafinistic approach in model making: Destruction!!!
 

 
... hihihihihihihi...
 
... and hohoho, snailed around a bit ...
 

 
... rebuild the rails to slightly different dimensions ...
 

 
... and redoing the splitlines with the help of Dymo tape.
 

 
...hihihihihihi...
 
XXXDAn