aviaamator

The end of the process. If you have any questions about this, I will be happy to help!

In the manufacture of stay , I used a thick needle and a medical needle. The whole process in the photo. To be honest, this work is very exciting! Does anyone else do the same?

I would like to make them like you but your splice skills surpass mine in large extent.
 
G.L.

I make slings of blocks like this. And you ?

I have recently purchased the HMS Wolf, a Shipyard paper model, from Cornwall Model Boats in the UK, I also purchased the extra sails and masts sets but was reticent to splash out on the laser cut blocks, however after receiving the model and seeing the size of the parts, each just a few mm and all containing multiple parts I have decided to save my eyes and will place an order for these as well. I was considering purchasing laser cut timber blocks however it seems an extravagance for a simple card model. However I may purchase wooden gun carriages and associated brass guns depending on how I go with cutting and assembling the card parts and the model generally. 
 
I have only one complaint in that there was a couple of pages of assembly instructions missing from the kit. I am really hoping that Cornwall are able to convince Shipyard to email me a pdf of the missing pages. Hopefully, as its assembly details and not parts details that are missing there will not be any issues. I will email Cornwall tomorrow.
 
The beauty of this card model is the skeleton is laser cut.  I have recently been struggling with cutting and assembling the skeleton for the RMS Mauretania and I find it very time consuming. I have been on that build for several months and have still not progressed beyond the skeleton!
 
Following Dan's lead I have been busy cataloguing all the parts into a spreadsheet with part numbers, page numbers, thickness of any laminations, names of the parts/ assemblies and any relevant comments and then cross references to assembly pages.
 
Anyway here are few some photographs of the kit -
The cover, and example assembly and parts pages. Note there is only one colour page of assembly details the rest are black and white. Other than  the rigging details all assembly detail is by photograph (no words).
A close up of some of double blocks parts as you may be able to discern in this example each block contains 7 parts all of which need to be laminated to either  0.25mm or 0.50mm card. The length of the block in this example is just a few mm.
An extract of the assembly instructions for the blocks in question.
The assembled skeleton - the majority of the skeleton has been assembled - I think it took less than 15 minutes to dry fit it.
 
I really must say the quality of the laser cut card is absolutely top drawer.
 
 
 
 

Danny
 
 
 
There is a YouTube video of them here 
Richmond.

Thank You!!! So it turns out in life, in the morning the ships in the evening the aircraft... The dialectic of life!

In the manufacture of stay , I used a thick needle and a medical needle. The whole process in the photo. To be honest, this work is very exciting! Does anyone else do the same?

Thank you guys. This construction will be much more complicated than Pandora, a lot of POF techniques are new to me, but I hope I can handle it.
The first few parts of the keel are done. First little complication was making some parts from two different kind of wood.

After a long creative vacuum, I started a new project. This is the so-called "gabare" Le Gros Ventre at 1:48 scale, the model will be realized using the POF method (plank on frame) according to a monograph by Gerard Delacroix. I will use cherry, pear, black hornbeam and maple wood for the building, without painting.
Gabare is a cargo ship used by the French Royal Navy during the 18th and 19th centuries. For this reason, there is no orlop deck.
The first phase of the construction was the making of a building board necessary for the installation of frames on the keel.  Great attention must be paid to the maximum accuracy of the position of the bottom and top base.

Slowly, but surely!

Hi Denis yes the deck will need some finishing later.
Today I began fabricating the sliding hatch. The cross members were shaped by clamping them together then gluing the longitudinal planks a couple more to go and then sand to a smooth finish for the canvas top which will get painted white. There will be brass runners along the top of the rails.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Michael
 

Thanks Ed, and for all those who added likes.
 
Today I started on the brass metalwork for the two plates at the entrance to the companionway and for the top rails. first order of the day was to cut some strips from the .031" sheet stock. I cut 3 pieces 1/4" wide and one 1/2" wide. I used my new 200x 1.2mm slitting saw on the big table saw. I was really pleased with the resulting cuts.
 

 
and a close up of the edge straight off the saw.
 

 
after measuring the vertical plates I cut the angles with the jewelers saw. The port side one was a bit sloppy on following the line .
 

 
The starboard one was a lot better.
 

 
Next the holes were drilled and countersunk for the fake 3/8" scale wood-screws.
 

 
The small copper Sig rivets had a head diameter of .055" and shaft of .023" I chucked these in a pin vice in the lathe and filed the pan head to a countersink profile.
 

 

 
Tomorrow or later today I will fit them to the companionway. which has been sanded ready for the canvas and the capture runners
 

 

 
Michael
 

Slowly, but surely!

Slowly, but surely!

Slowly, but surely!

Slowly, but surely!

Slowly, but surely!

Slowly, but surely!

Slowly, but surely!

Johann! Cables are clearly not enough load when twisting, they look weakly twisted. Strands should fit snugly to each other. Try to take the cable in a vertical position and measure the maximum length of this part of the cable, the longer-the better! My cotton cable.

Slowly, but surely!

The end of the process. If you have any questions about this, I will be happy to help!

Slowly, but surely!

Muchas gracias.